Fighting green algae in the pond

There are many factors that can cause green algae to appear in a garden pond. Too much sunlight, nutrient-laden water and your pond is invaded by a greenish aquatic mist. Once well installed, these algae tend to colonize the space, harming both the general balance and the aesthetics of the place. Let's see how to remedy it...

The causes of the invasion

Several causes are at the origin of the propagation of these green algae, but it is always due to an excess of nutrients in the pond water. The organic pollution of the environment is the result of several phenomena: too much food for the fish, plant debris that has fallen to the bottom of the pond for several months, fertilizer applied around the pond, or an overpopulation of fish in relation to the size of the pond are all aggravating factors.

Another cause is the lack of aquatic plants in the pond. After a harsh winter, some aquatic plants will have disappeared, others will take a long time to start up again, leaving green algae, which develop very quickly in the spring, to take advantage of all the nutrients present in the water. The aquatic plants will no longer be able to perform their filtration, depollution and shading roles, and the algae will have plenty of time to colonize the pond.

Note that constant sunlight can further aggravate the phenomenon. A pond should always be installed in semi-shade.

How to fight against green algae?

It is easy to prevent the appearance of green algae by following these few tips:

• First of all, make sure that you maintain your pond regularly. Plant debris (leaves, flowers, grass, etc.) that has fallen into the pond should be collected on the surface before disappearing to the bottom of the water, where it will decompose quickly. The same goes for aquatic plants, which should be cleaned of soft leaves and wilted flowers before they decompose in the water.
• Don't overfeed the fish; the right amount is the one that can be swallowed whole in a maximum of 5 minutes, otherwise it will all end up at the bottom of the pond.
• Another mistake to avoid is overcrowding the pond. Keep in mind that a goldfish will need 50 liters of water to be comfortable while a koi carp will need 1000 liters. These little creatures grow very fast, don't forget that!
• In the spring, as soon as all risk of freezing is eliminated, restart the filtration after a complete cleaning and a check of the filter. It is possible to inoculate the filter with biomass bacteria to increase its efficiency.
• Finally, check the condition of your aquatic plants and replace those that have not survived the winter. They have a major role of filtration and depollution in the pond. Plants that start their vegetative cycle very early in the season should be favored (Aponogeton, Elodea, Ranunculus, Sagittaria, Iris pseudacorus...)
• Install water lilies, water hyacinths and lotus if the depth of the pond allows it: their foliage will provide welcome shade to which you can add the planting of an evergreen tree at the edge of the pond.

Spring cleaning of the pond

The warm weather is back, and with it, the rising temperatures that signal the awakening of the ornamental pond. This is the ideal time to carry out a major spring cleaning in order to start again on a healthy basis so that fish and aquatic plants develop harmoniously in a balanced ecosystem.

Do not confuse cleaning with emptying!

Cleaning does not necessarily mean emptying. This is an important distinction and should be emphasized because many owners of small ponds make this mistake. Thinking they are doing the right thing, they empty their pond completely and without knowing it destroy the fragile balance between fauna and flora. The fish are then subjected to a stress that can be fatal to them.

This is why a total emptying of the pond should only be considered in case of serious situations such as a leak, a chemical pollution of external origin causing the death of fish or an imbalance of the environment such that the water, always cloudy and smelly, causes the disappearance of animal and plant species.

How to clean the pond?

Apart from the specific cases mentioned above, a simple cleaning will do the trick:

• Remove all organic debris from the surface of the pond with a large net. Dead leaves from trees, grass clippings from mowing, small twigs blown in by the wind, large green algae: everything must go!
• At this time the aquatic plants start to grow, to aerate them and give them a maximum of light, remove all the wilted leaves and the softened stems around the new shoots. It is also time to divide overgrown plants and introduce any new plants.

A partial change of water may be necessary; changing 1/3 of the volume should be more than enough and should not disturb the flora and fauna too much.

Maintenance of the pond equipment

• Clean the filtration system and the pump before putting them back into service;
• Heterotrophic bacteria can be placed in the filter when it is put back into service as soon as the water temperature reaches 10°C. These bacteria have the effect of rebalancing the pond, reducing the nitrate level and thus limiting the appearance of filamentous algae. They also accelerate the efficiency of the filtration process and reduce the need for maintenance of the filter media.
• Check the operation of the UV unit and change the lamp, which can lose power if it has been in place for several years.

The creation of a peat bog

A peat bog is a zone with a strong humid character, where peat gradually accumulates. It is composed of non-decomposed organic plant matter. The soil is very poor and only allows very specific plants that have evolved differently to feed themselves. This is the case of carnivores.

The peat bog is a fragile ecosystem where the environment must almost constantly be flooded or waterlogged. The gradual accumulation of non-decomposed plant organic matter and its settling form the peat.

The necessary material

• Bidim type geotextile felt
• Liner for firestone pool
• Blonde peat without amendment
• PVC pipe Diameter 40 length 60 cm.
• Carnivorous plants
• Non-calcareous stones

Making

• Dig a hole one meter long by one meter wide and 80 centimeters deep that you will cover with Bidim, in order to prevent the roots of the surrounding plants from invading your peat bog.
• On top of this geotextile film you will install your liner to waterproof the area and allow for proper water stagnation.
• Maintain the perimeter with large non-calcareous stones. This is very important because otherwise the PH of the bog would be disturbed.
• To know if a stone is calcareous, pour a little vinegar on it, if it foams it is because it contains limestone.
• Drill a few holes all along your PVC pipe, surround it with bidim and fix it on one side of the bog that you can now fill with peat.
• Spread the peat in the hole, making a small mound in the center, and incorporate the pipe, taking care not to fill it up. It will serve later as a gauge to control the humidity of the bog.
• In the center you can include a small well made with a simple plastic pot surrounded by liner to keep it wet.
• Attach the liner with stones around the pot for a successful aesthetic effect. You will be able to house some water bladderwort.
• Your bog is now almost complete, all you have to do is saturate the peat with water until the gauge is full.

Installation of carnivorous plants

This operation can be done before the watering for more ease. The ideal period is the beginning of spring in March or April.

Get a batch of carnivorous plants, count one plant for 30 cm² because they grow quite quickly in outdoor culture.

Contrary to what one might imagine, carnivorous plants are not all indoor plants requiring heat and constant care, on the contrary: some species live much better outdoors in the right substrate made of blond peat and saturated with water. In spring and summer you will see them proliferate and feed on various insects such as ants, mosquitoes and gnats. You will be amazed at how fast they grow!

In the winter they disappear underground but do not die, they simply wait for the thaw and the return of food.

In your bog, you can plant :

• Dionaea muscipula the best known carnivorous plant with leaves that look like wolf traps.
• Drosera aliciae which will happily reseed itself
• Sarracenia for their spectacular urns
• Darlingtonia
• Aldrovanda and hives for the well

Example of the realization of a pond

Serge explains us the realization of his garden pond

Construction of the pond

The pond is 50 cm underground and 40 cm above ground. All around, the earth slopes gently down to the level of the garden soil.

Advantages: less digging; use of the digging soil to make the slope; creation of a small height that breaks the monotony of the flatness of the garden.

The characteristics of the pond are:

• Volume 10.000 liters
• Depth 90 cm (If I had to do it again, I would make it 1,20 m deep)

Near the waterfall the depth is less: first a step of 40 cm on which I put water lilies, then one of 20 cm deep, where the water falls on large pebbles.

The bottom is a 8 to 10 cm thick slab poured in one go. The sides are made of 15 cm cinder blocks. On the upper blocks are embedded concrete irons that form a belt that allows to resist to frost (obviously not Siberian frosts!). The top of the sides is finished with paving stone . The concrete is mixed with a water-repellent powder that makes it waterproof.

On 2 sides, between 2 cinder blocks, at 40 cm from the bottom, I left a hole of about 10 cm diameter made with a plastic bottle around which I poured concrete. These 2 holes go through the cinder blocks and allowed me to install a lighting of the bottom of the water with 12 volts 50 watts spotlights. 50 watts are a minimum because the water is not always very clear, unfortunately. A window is located on the pond side, in the water, and the spotlights are therefore behind, out of the water. At night, seeing the fishes and plants underwater is really the most beautiful effect.

On 3 sides I installed some planters to plant plants. I made them with the help of forms as well as the feet on which they are posed. My mistake: I installed all 3 at the level of the water. According to the type of plants, they must be at 0, -5, or -10 cm.

Of course I also have pots at the bottom of the pond for water lilies, oxygenating plants or others.

The water level of the pond is constant. Indeed, I installed a flush float that brings water when the level drops. Of course it is black and hidden by the vegetation; nobody notices it.

The filtration

The material comes from swimming pool stores. The water intake is at the bottom of the water opposite the waterfall. It is a plastic suction plug with a grid, embedded in the concrete of the bottom of the pond.

All the piping is flexible, in 50 mm. The pipe of the bung goes out on the side of the pond and under ground to join the pump. This pump is a dishwasher pump (flow rate about 3m3/hour) that I got from the dump. It is also possible to buy one from an appliance repair shop. They get them from the machines they throw away. I personally always have 2 in advance, just in case ...

A washing machine drain pump does not have enough flow (about 1 m3/hour). This pump has to work under load, so it is below the pond level. This pump flows into the sand filter (for swimming pools) which is buried, for discretion. It contains 75 kg of sand, which is a minimum for this volume of water.

The cleaning is very easy since it is provided with a handle which allows to turn a valve with 6 positions: filtration, cleaning of the filter, setting to the drain (or to the garden, in my case) etc. ....

The filter outlet goes to the waterfall above. It has 2 concrete basins whose edges are hidden by

The edges are hidden by millstones, one under the other, which allows the water to oxygenate well at each fall.

The fish

I have of course fishes, koi carps, river carps, roaches but I have something else that aquarists will find surprising : I put guppy, every year at the beginning of June, when the water reaches 19 or 20°C. I remove them in September when the water is only 15 or 16°C. At this temperature they do not die but they become numb. Of course, it is not necessary to go lower. I put 4 females and 2 males, adults, which are not long to reproduce. And as there is a lot of vegetation, the young are not eaten . In a few days I will remove them. There are about 150 of them . The water is currently at 18°C and yet the young are just born. They are very easy to recover with a fine mesh net because guppies always swim on the surface.

I tried with scalars but it did not work; they do not hold in cold water. With platy, it works but you can't recover them because they swim too much at the bottom.

Basin, a lively show

Water has a magical side in a garden. Ponds, water features, waterfalls and fountains bring life, relaxation and freshness to the garden. A miniature universe that must find its balance to thrive, the water garden requires a certain amount of attention, but requires much less maintenance than one might think.

Well built, carefully decorated, equipped with useful and practical accessories, your water garden will become a point of attraction, evoking softness and serenity, in a peaceful atmosphere with spectacular vegetation that also attracts wildlife.

The pond is a place rich in life that will delight the youngest and the oldest with its permanent living show. Add some lighting and the magic will work even at night.

An animated show

• Water has a magical side that transforms the decor into a world of peace and delight.
• The water enchants us with the serene calm of the still mirror, where the clouds are reflected to evoke infinite depths.
• The cheerful rustle of the water attracts our curiosity and creates a dynamic movement in the composition of the garden.
• At the edge of a pond or a water feature, we live differently and the perception of the garden changes. The cat, our friend, becomes a potential predator of fish, the insects become the actors of an aerial ballet which enchants us.

An aquatic decor for all gardens

• There is nothing to stop you from creating ponds raised by coping stones, especially on a terrace.
• On the balcony, a large Chinese jar or a half barrel can be transformed into a very pretty water garden.
• The return to the fashion of structured gardens is imposing more and more simple geometric shapes (squares, rounds, rectangles). They offer the advantage of an easier installation and simplified maintenance.
• The water garden evolves with the seasons, changing its appearance while maintaining its decorative appeal. Sparkling like a diamond when frozen in the winter, the water garden teems with life in the spring and summer before gently fading into the golden glow of autumn.

A water garden is easy

• The smallest watertight container can be transformed into a small water garden: jar, bowl, trough, half barrel, etc.
• Materials and techniques have evolved and simplified to facilitate installation and maintenance.
• Everything you need to create and maintain a water garden is available in garden stores, which guarantees accessibility and proximity.
• Water in the garden is accessible to all budgets because the systems work in closed circuit and consume very little electricity. A pond pump consumes less electricity than a light bulb!

So...

A Red Label for geraniums

You thought that only hams and chickens could carry the famous 'Label Rouge', well no! The plant world is also involved with a selection of geraniums specially selected to make you want to plant them at home.

Characteristics of the labelled geranium

The Red Label allows the buyer to identify varieties of geraniums with very fast and harmonious growth.

These varieties will bloom abundantly for many months without interruption and come in all the classic colors ranging from white to red, pink and mauve. With single or very double flowers, single-colored or variegated, you are spoiled for choice. You will find both zonal geraniums with an upright habit that make a beautiful effect in beds or pots, and ivy geraniums ideal for decorating your jars, window boxes and transforming your balcony into a flowering cascade.

Easy to live with, these geraniums do not require constant maintenance.

They tolerate heat and even drought and are less susceptible to disease.

They are guaranteed.

How are Label Rouge geraniums produced and selected?

The 'Label Rouge' geraniums are selected by an independent jury from producers following a very particular schedule of conditions. The plants are subjected to a minimal duration of culture to take time to fortify and develop under good conditions. For example, instead of growing 100 plants per square meter, producers are required to grow half as many to ensure optimal development. The INAO (Institut National de l'Origine et de la Qualité), which depends on the Ministry of Agriculture, oversees the whole process and awards the famous 'Label Rouge' if all conditions are met.

Some varieties

Among the 'Label Rouge' geraniums, some like 'Tango Velvet Red' offer intense colors. This very floriferous variety is adorned with semi-double velvety deep red flowers. Also in reds, 'Sunrise' has zoned foliage and bright scarlet double flowers.

If you prefer white geraniums, 'Snow Cascade' has a drooping habit and blooms white from April to October, while the trendy 'Americana White Splash' with its semi-double white flowers with a magenta center will look great in your beds.

Dark purple, 'Royal Blue' with very double flowers is suitable for hanging baskets and pots, which it will adorn with its spectacular bloom from March until October!

Among the pink geraniums, 'Marcada Pink' is a must with its pink bloom forming cascades during long months,

The Label Rouge effect on the consumer

All the European studies prove it: the consumer has currently an anxiogenic behavior and a real loss of confidence towards many elements such as politics, the media but also their consumer products. Labels and big brands bring them this security and reassure them because they are (most of the time) guarantees of quality; 2/3 of consumers say they are ready to pay more for a trustworthy purchase.