What exposure for a lemon tree in a pot?

The lemon tree, because of its low hardiness, is cultivated in pots in most regions, which implies some particular growing conditions and a certain know-how regarding the exposure to obtain a good harvest.

A suitable pot

Whether it is comfortably installed in a large orangery-type container or in a large terracotta pot, the lemon tree remains a fruit tree whose roots need space to develop. In order to install your lemon tree in the best location for each season, consider placing it on wheels so that it can be moved easily, because for the roots to be comfortable, the pot will necessarily be quite heavy and bulky, especially once it is filled with moist substrate.

Exposure of the lemon tree in pot in spring

As soon as frost is no longer a concern and temperatures stabilize above 10°C night and day, you can consider putting your potted lemon tree on the balcony, terrace or in the garden. Be careful, once it is out of winter storage, it should be placed in full sun very gradually so as not to cause irreversible burns on the foliage, as the light indoors is rarely the same as outdoors. Start by putting it under a shelter (awning, roof overhang, covered terrace...) then, little by little, offer it the morning sun and finally a very sunny southern exposure, if possible protected from the prevailing winds. The period of habituation will extend over approximately one week to 10 days.

Start watering more regularly and add a mixture of crushed horn and dried blood after having made a good composting to promote the emission of new shoots and feed this greedy fruit tree.

Exposure of the lemon tree in pot in summer

In summer, the substrate dries out very quickly in pots, especially if the lemon tree is exposed to full sun and in a windy area. So beware!

• In the northern regions, a full southern and sunny exposure can be maintained because it will guarantee a good fruiting but always at the price of a sustained watering! Be careful, watering must be correctly dosed to avoid drowning the roots and inducing asphyxia; let the substrate dry on the surface for 2 cm before watering again. At this time of the year, if there is some water left in the cup, there is no drama, especially when a thick draining layer (pozzolan, gravel, clay balls...) has been provided at the bottom of the pot. The residual water should evaporate in a few hours at most.
• In southern regions, a full southern exposure and full sun is to be avoided because it would be too hot in the pot, even with an adapted watering.
• In these regions, install your lemon tree facing East or West so that it benefits from at least 4 hours of sunlight in the morning or evening while protecting it from the burning rays of the midday. If this is not possible due to lack of space, install a shade cloth, an umbrella or even better, a camouflage net that allows air and a few sun rays to pass through without the situation remaining hot; all your other potted plants will benefit from this.

Exposure of the lemon tree in pot in autumn

• In northern regions, at the very beginning of autumn, if the temperatures remain mild and above 8°C night and day, move your lemon tree to a south-facing position sheltered from the wind so that it can benefit from as much sun as possible before overwintering. You will then have to be very vigilant about the temperature so that it does not catch a cold!
• In the southern regions, the sun can still hit very hard until the end of October, however, it becomes less scorching. A South-East or South-West exposure is recommended in September, then, from mid-October onwards, the lemon tree can be moved due south until the temperatures drop to 8°C at night. It will then be time to winterize it indoors.

In autumn, start spacing out the watering by watering only when the substrate is 3 cm dry on the surface, whether you grow your lemon tree in a northern or southern region.

Exposure of the lemon tree in pot in winter

In winter, the lemon tree grown in a pot should be installed away from frost, in a very bright and cool room, never in an apartment where the air is too hot and too dry and where the light will never be sufficient unless it is placed next to a south-facing bay window (beware of cold spells at night if the window is not protected by a shutter and curtains).

Choose an orangery if you are lucky enough to have one, a greenhouse, a veranda, or a winter garden. The luminosity should be maximum with if possible a few hours of full sun in the morning or afternoon. In the mildest regions, remember to ventilate the room often in hot and sunny weather, as temperatures can rise very quickly!

In cold weather, install a space heater so that temperatures never fall below 5°C.

The ideal temperature for the wintering of the lemon tree is between 5 and 14°C, the waterings will be then very reduced so that the substrate dries almost completely between two waterings. Obviously, during this period of rest in the cool, the contributions in fertilizers will be stopped.

Planting an olive tree in a pot

The olive tree is a magnificent ornamental plant with southern connotations that can be grown in a pot on a terrace or balcony.

Advantages of growing in a pot

The olive tree is a slow-growing plant that adapts well to pot cultivation, but unlike plants planted in the ground, it will need some care.

Growing in a pot has many advantages:

• accessibility of the culture of this tree to all those who have only a balcony or a terrace;
• possibility to grow an olive tree in cold regions, because in winter it can be brought under cover;
• Possibility to take it with you when you move.

How to plant an olive tree in a pot ?

Prefer to do this operation in spring when there is no risk of frost.

Choose a young, healthy tree with no spots or pests.

Soak the root ball in a large bucket of water for one hour before planting.

Remove the branches at the level of the root ball and the low lateral branches along the trunk.

Choose a tray or pot of a size equivalent to 3 times the size of the purchase pot in all directions. Drain the bottom with clay balls over 5 cm.

If you have a garden, spread a layer of soil from the garden on top. If it is very heavy, add medium-grained sand. A commercial potting soil containing a little clay will also do the trick and will retain water during the hot summer months, thus limiting your watering interventions.

Place the rootball on this substrate so that the collar is flush with the top of the container.

Fill in the gaps with soil, taking care that the plant is straight in its pot.

Pack the soil on the surface.

Water and add soil if necessary.

Specific care for the olive tree grown in a pot

A potted tree is subject to the elements without being able to draw water and the elements necessary for its survival from the earth, so it is dependent on you. Always place your olive tree in a sheltered and sunny place. Be sure to water it very regularly, i.e. once a week in spring and twice or three times a week in summer when heat, wind and drought are prevalent. In winter, reduce watering to a strict minimum and never let water stagnate in the cup to avoid the appearance of diseases.

Winterized plants, especially in heated premises, will need more frequent watering; however, a watering every two weeks should be sufficient.

During the growing season, remember to add a little organic fertilizer every ten days after a copious watering.

Repotting is done every three years in the spring on young trees, then a resurfacing will be necessary every year on the larger and more difficult to handle trees.

It is not necessary to prune a potted olive tree, but you may want to thin out the center of the tree to let in light and ensure good ventilation. Forget the "ball" pruning which favors the appearance of parasites due to lack of ventilation.

Mini rock garden in trough

Creating a mini rock garden in a trough is very easy. It allows you to create a miniature garden a little high, easy to monitor and maintain, which will please children curious about nature. 

Yarrow or saxifrage are the king plants of a mini rock garden, producing their rosette pads. They are easy and colorful plants.

Different kinds of containers can be used, whether it is a real old stone or concrete trough, a small molded trough made of fake stone bought in garden centers or a recycled zinc basin, a large bowl, even chipped, because the possible defects can be masked by a plant that overflows.  Beware, however, of pottery that will not withstand the frost.

Drainage is important

The container, whatever it is, must be pierced at the bottom so that natural drainage is ensured and the trough in question does not turn into a mud bath! 

Alpine plants, although very resistant to drought, generally like to sink their roots quite deep into the soil. They are therefore provided with between 15 and 30 cm of soil; if the container is deeper, the base is filled with pebbles, pebbles, shards of tiles,. Whatever you have on hand.

Which soil to use?

Clay, loam or sandy garden soil is fine. If the soil is too clayey, with a tendency to be impermeable, it can be lightened with coarse sand. If the soil is too rich, with a high moisture content, it can be lightened with gravel as well. Rockery plants are less beautiful and more fragile if the soil is too rich. The bare earth between the separated plants will be covered with gravel.

How to choose the plants?

The rock garden is theoretically created for years, and must withstand the weather without any protection. For this purpose, it is necessary to choose hardy plants. Among the succulents that are seen on sale, make sure with a specialist that they are frost resistant in your region. Some classic examples:

The sunny and warm mini rock garden

The ultimate beginner's rock garden plants are houseleeks, of the genus Sempervivum. Extremely hardy, these little shaved cabbages come in all sorts of species and varieties that allow you to achieve a cameo of color and texture with this one genus. They form a carpet of tightly packed rosettes: for example, large flat rosettes with brown tips with Sempervivum tectorum, bright red rosettes for Sempervivum 'Othello', or small, round and nicely woven with white threads for the species Sempervivum arachnoides.

Their cousin, Jovibarba, are rarer and slower to multiply. A Delosperma nubigenum, hidden behind its yellow daisies, finishes to brighten up the whole (photo). These species of plants, succulent, can be transplanted from April to September.

A shadier trough

If you only have a shadier spot to set up your little rock garden, then you need to put saxifrages in it; there are moss-type saxifrages, which are bright green and like a little more water, and limestone-encrusted saxifrages, which are very compact, in a gray-green carpet, with beautiful flowers. Indeed, the saxifrages are resistant to the drought, but prefer not to overheat, they are satisfied with half-shade, or bright shade.  Their spring flowering is particularly attractive. The pots of the plants are basked before transplanting, which is best done in spring or fall.

Of course, a number of other plants can be suitable, as the world of alpine plants is vast. If you get absorbed in it, one trough after the other, if you become passionate little by little, do not hesitate to join SAJA, the Society of Alpine Gardeners. 

Cutting geraniums

You are dazzled by a variety of geraniums present at one of your friends or neighbors, you wish to multiply yours! Summer is the best season for cuttings. Get started, it's easy!

The right time

In summer the warm temperatures will ensure a good rooting of your cuttings, so it is the right season to propagate your geraniums and pelargoniums. Proceed to the cutting preferably in the morning on a healthy subject, without spots or parasites because it would then be weakened.

The right tools

Take a pair of disinfected pruning shears, small peat pots that can be placed directly in the ground afterwards or a bowl. Choose a "special seedling or cutting" mixture from the trade. You can also make it yourself by mixing 1/3 of good potting soil, 1/3 of peat and 1/3 of river sand.

If you want to multiply your chances of success, it is possible to use the cutting hormone available in powder.

How to proceed?

• Take an end of about fifteen centimeters in length by cutting it cleanly with the secateurs;
• Remove the basal leaves to leave only the two or three leaves of the upper part in order to limit evaporation and cut the flower buds if the cutting presents some to avoid the exhaustion of the plant;
• Prepare your pots or your terrine by filling them with the mixture recommended above;
• Pack the mixture well in the container;
• water copiously and let the excess water drain away;
• with a large pencil or with your finger make a hole in the substrate. This will receive the cutting;
• brush the base of the cutting with hormone powder (about 2 cm);
• place the prepared cutting in the hole;
• Gently fill in around the stem and pack it down;
• water again to eliminate air bubbles.

What next?

Keep your cuttings in a shady spot and water them often to keep the mixture moist without getting soggy. Do not use any fertilizer during this stage.

As soon as the first signs of recovery appear, which will be marked by the appearance of new leaves, you can transplant your cuttings into larger pots containing a good commercial potting soil. You will keep them in a sheltered place all winter to introduce them the following spring in their definitive location.

Planting in planters

When space is limited, such as on a balcony or a terrace, planting in planters is an interesting solution to grow some plants. Planters can be placed on the ground or suspended to create beautiful cascades of flowers.

Specificity of the culture in window boxes

A window box is by definition a container that is longer than it is wide, so it is possible to install several plants side by side. This specificity implies a choice of plants that require similar growing conditions, especially in terms of watering and exposure. It is out of the question, for example, to install cactus and impatiens together because these plants require opposite care. The result would be very quickly catastrophic!

Another parameter to take into account is the small volume of substrate for a number of plants that is often too large. Always keep in mind to install your plants at a reasonable distance so that they can grow and develop properly without competing too much.

For the same reason, the base substrate must be very rich and the fertilizers regular and sustained because the nutrients are quickly exhausted in such conditions. Let's add that watering constraints are also present, especially in the middle of summer, in hot, dry and windy weather. Depending on the plants, daily and abundant watering may be necessary!

Choose deep planters where the roots can properly develop.

Security

Often hung on the street side of a balcony, the planter must be firmly fixed to avoid accidents in case of a gust of wind. In this case, a light material should be chosen, again for safety reasons. Keep concrete or terracotta planters on the ground so that they do not hurt anyone if they fall.

How to plant in a planter?

Whatever the material chosen for your planter (iron, terracotta, plastic, stone, concrete...), drainage holes must be present at the bottom of the container. If they are not present, you will have to drill some.

Place flat pebbles on these holes to prevent the substrate from escaping and then pour a layer of clay balls or pebbles to ensure good drainage so that water does not stagnate at the roots;

Choose a very good commercial potting soil and add some compost and a bit of ground horn.

Pour a layer of this mixture on the draining bed and install your plants by respecting a good planting distance;

The neck of the plants should be about 1 cm from the top of the pot;

Fill in the remaining gaps with the mixture and pack the entire surface well;

Water thoroughly and add more mix if necessary.

Place your planter in its final location according to the requirements of the chosen plants.

Remember to water often and add liquid fertilizer regularly.

Growing lilacs in pots

Common in gardens as a lone subject or in compound hedges, the lilac can also find its place on a terrace or a balcony planted in a pot. Dwarf varieties are preferred to create beautiful scenes without taking up too much space, while still enjoying the wonderful fragrance of this shrub.

Which varieties for a pot plantation?

Choose preferably small varieties for a culture in pot. There are many cultivars not exceeding 1.5 m to 2 m in all directions. Among them:

• Syringa meyeri 'Palibin' with pink/blue flowers ;
• Syringa meyeri 'Josee' pastel pink;
• Syringa julianae 'Red Pixie' purple/wine-lily;
• Syringa microphylla 'Superba', otherwise known as 'Little Leaf Lilac' with pale mauve repeat flowering;
• Syringa 'Bloomerang Pink', a compact hybrid with repeat flowering of deep pink;
• Syringa persica Laciniata, the Persian lilac with sharply cut foliage and blue/mauve flowers, hardy to -15°C.

In what type of pot should I grow the lilac?

Choose a large pot with a minimum diameter of 40 to 50 cm and the same depth to give the roots room. A square or rectangular wooden pot, a large tub, or an unglazed ceramic pot will do the trick. Avoid bulging pots that are too difficult to unstuff and black plastic containers that heat up too much under the summer sun.

When to repot lilac?

Plant your lilac in a pot in autumn in the mildest regions, everywhere else, wait until spring or choose a hardy variety.

An annual topdressing with compost is sufficient for the first two years after planting, then a repotting will be necessary to renew the substrate.

How to plant lilac in a pot?

• The pot must be pierced at the bottom so that water does not stagnate.
• Add a layer of clay balls, gravel or small pebbles to the bottom of the pot to promote drainage, as the lilac hates having its roots constantly soggy. The drainage layer should make up about 20% of the volume of the pot.
• Prepare a mixture of ¼ good potting soil, ¼ garden soil, ¼ compost and ¼ coarse river sand.
• Pour a layer of the mixture at the bottom of the pot over the draining bed.
• Place the root ball and adjust the height, adding more mix if necessary, so that the neck of the shrub is 3 to 5 cm below the top of the pot.
• Fill in any gaps and pack well around the stem.
• Water copiously and add more mix if necessary.

Where to install a lilac in a pot?

A full sun exposure sheltered from drafts is ideal in the northern regions of the Loire. In the south, place your lilac in mid-shade in summer to protect it from the scorching midday sun. In winter, it can be placed in full sun, but be careful with watering in regions where rainfall is rare in winter!

How to water a potted lilac?

Like all plants grown in pots, lilacs will need more attention than if they were grown in the ground. So be careful, if you are used to growing it in the garden, it will require more care in a pot, especially in terms of watering in summer, which must be very regular so that your plant does not 'burn out', especially when exposed on a balcony in full sun!

In order not to make a mistake, never let the substrate dry on more than 3 cm of surface in summer.

In winter, make sure it doesn't run out of water if it doesn't rain.

What fertilizer should I use for my potted lilac?

Prefer an organic fertilizer, less aggressive than a chemical fertilizer, it will be better assimilated by the plant with just as much efficiency and this, without weakening it. In March, scratch a mixture of crushed horn and dried blood at the foot of the shrub or pour a handful of organic granules on the surface of the mixture. As it is not afraid of limestone, you can add a handful of chimney ashes at the end of winter, the blooming will only be more opulent!

How do I prune my potted lilac?

Smaller varieties grown in pots are only moderately pruned. The removal of wilted inflorescences in spring and autumn on remontant varieties constitutes the major part of the pruning operations. If necessary, it is possible, still after flowering, to remove dead wood and to aerate the silhouette a little by pruning the branches that cross in the center of the shrub and by reducing some branches by 1/3. Be careful, because lilacs bloom on the previous year's wood. If you prune too late and too short, the blooming may be compromised!