The culture of cycas in pots

Cycas is a popular indoor or patio plant when grown in a pot. With a short trunk and beautiful glossy foliage that makes it look like a palm tree, cycas is an easy plant to grow.

A primitive plant

Cycas are primitive plants belonging to the Cycadaceae family. Neither ferns nor palms but intermediate between the two, they grow naturally on rocky slopes or in dry, open forests in Australia, Japan, Madagascar and the Pacific Islands. The genus is composed of about fifteen species of which Cycas revoluta, and Cycas media, which are the most commonly cultivated.

Very ornamental, these plants are however cold; they will be planted in the open ground only in regions where frost does not occur. That is why, a culture in pot is recommended everywhere else in order to be able to winter the plant out of frost during the cold season.

How to plant cycas in a pot?

1. Choose a large enough and heavy enough container so that the plant does not tip over. The container should have a hole in the bottom to prevent the roots from rotting.
2. Place a pebble at the bottom of the pot and pour a good layer of clay balls to ensure good drainage (about 20% of the volume of the pot).
3. The nature of the mixture is very important in the culture of cycas; simple potting soil will not be sufficient because it needs a very rich substrate. Make a mixture of clay garden soil, compost, coarse river sand and pine bark. Add a little charcoal powder to this mixture.
4. Spread a layer of the mixture over the clay balls and place your plant in the center of the pot.
5. Pour the mixture around the root ball to fill in any gaps and pack the soil around the stipe.
6. Water copiously and add more mix if necessary.

How to grow cycas in a pot?

Cycas need bright light to grow well. Place it in a winter garden, a veranda or a bright apartment. Shade the windows during the hottest hours of the day if they are facing south.

In the summer, when frost is no longer a concern, you can gradually bring your plant out into the sun on the terrace or balcony. It will spend the summer there and will then be brought back before the first frost.

If you choose to grow your plant outdoors all year round, remember to protect the pot with bubble wrap and the aerial parts of the plant with a winter veil if you do not live in a privileged region.

As far as watering is concerned, cycas needs water regularly during the growing period but let the mixture dry on a few centimeters before watering again because this plant hates having its roots constantly bathed.

In winter and outdoors, let nature take its course. Indoors, water every 15 days and allow a short dry period during the coldest months.

A repotting may be necessary every 4 years in spring in the same type of mixture. If the subject becomes too big to be repotted, be satisfied with a surfacing with compost and crushed horn powder every year.

Growing boxwood in pots

An easy to grow shrub that always stays green, boxwood can also be planted in pots to decorate a terrace or balcony. The icing on the cake is that it can withstand most exposures and can even be sculpted into a topiary!

A precious shrub on a terrace

Boxwood (Buxus) is a hardy evergreen shrub belonging to the Buxaceae family. Native to the Mediterranean basin, it gives off a characteristically pleasant scent. Its small leaves form a compact clump that can be pruned into a ball, spiral or cone shape. It is therefore an ideal subject for a contemporary terrace as well as for a classic style balcony.

Planting tips

One important thing about boxwood: it hates having its feet in water! Choose a terra cotta pot with a hole in the bottom. Unglazed terra cotta allows for gas exchange and retains much less moisture than plastic pots.

Place a drainage bed equal to 20% of the volume of the pot at the bottom of the container. It will be made of gravel, clay balls or small pebbles.

Place a geotextile film on the drainage bed, followed by a layer of potting soil with ground horn powder.

Soak the root ball of your box tree for two hours in a basin of water before planting in order to rehydrate it and facilitate its recovery.

Place the roots on the substrate and fill in the vacant space with the same mixture up to the plant's collar. Pack and water.

Growing boxwood in a pot

For pot culture, choose a dwarf species such as Buxus microphylla, of which there are many varieties and cultivars. Boxwoods are equally at home in semi-shade or full sun. Be careful, because in the hottest regions, it will prefer half-shade in summer. During this period, it will be necessary to water it often because the culture in pot has this particularity to ask for waterings more sustained especially in period of strong heats and of big wind. Never leave water in the cups and wait until the root ball is dry on the surface before watering copiously again. In winter, natural rainfall should be more than enough, except in case of exceptional drought.

Boxwood is an easy shrub: it tolerates frost, pollution and even lack of water if it is not constant. Slow growing, repotting will only be done every 5 years. A surfacing every year will however be welcome. As for the famous pruning, it is done twice a year, generally in May and September, to keep the shrub in good shape.

Growing azaleas and rhododendrons in pots

Rhododendrons and azaleas are the stars of the heathland plant family and are highly prized for their opulent blooms in pastel and bright colors. These excellent bedding plants can also be grown in pots on a balcony or terrace by following our advice.

Why grow azaleas or rhododendrons in pots?

There are several reasons for growing azaleas or rhododendrons in pots: soil that is too chalky, lack of space or simply the absence of a garden may lead to choosing this type of cultivation.

The importance of the container and the substrate

Rhododendrons prefer to be at ease in large containers, whereas azaleas can tolerate being a little more cramped, which is important when you only have a limited amount of space.

These plants are acidophilic, so they need a substrate with an acidic pH. Plant them in very good quality heather soil. Don't forget to drain the bottom of the pot (which should be pierced) with a good layer of clay balls to allow a good evacuation of the watering.

Specificities of the culture in pot

Be careful, these plants appreciate a humid atmosphere, that's why they are so beautiful in English gardens!

Place them in half-shade if your balcony is exposed to the South, especially in Mediterranean regions where they would soon 'fry'. Spread a good layer of mulch at the foot to avoid too much evaporation and water often, especially in hot and dry weather.

Remember to remove the faded flowers so that the plant does not get exhausted.

Don't forget to repot your plants in the spring in a new substrate, or simply surface if the pot is really big.

Ideal varieties for pot culture

Some rhododendrons can form real shrubs, so it is better to turn to dwarf species and cultivars, more suitable for pot culture. Among this vast genus there are species with evergreen or deciduous foliage, the former will ensure a beautiful decor throughout the year, so they are to be preferred.

Japanese azaleas have a compact habit and pastel colored flowers. For a spreading habit, choose the variety 'Pink pancake', or the more original 'Azuma-kagami' with its bright pink interlocking corollas. White azaleas always make an impact: 'White moon' with its wavy petals will be a delight.

Rhododendron 'Blue Diamonds' is appreciated for its evergreen foliage and mauve/blue bloom, while the scarlet red of 'Elisabeth' will delight those who love bright colors.

The more subdued 'Grumpy' in pink and cream, or the pristine white 'Porzellan' are great pieces, while 'Glowing Embers' will add a little pizzazz with its large orange-red funnel-shaped flowers.

Growing citrus fruits in pots

Citrus fruits are very cold plants; they cannot be grown in the ground outside of the very sheltered regions. Everywhere else, growing them in pots will allow them to overwinter under cover.

The choice of the container

Citrus fruits have extensive roots and do not tolerate stagnant humidity. Based on this observation, the choice of the container will be a large vat or a terracotta pot which favors gas exchanges. Water reserve containers should be avoided because they keep the soil constantly moist, which is not very suitable for the needs of these plants.

Wooden boxes that can be dismantled are much more suitable because they make it easier to unpack the plants when it becomes necessary to change the pot.

Consider placing your container on wheels, it will be easier to move.

A suitable substrate

As we have seen, citrus plants need well-drained soil to avoid suffering. It will be necessary to provide a thick layer of clay balls at the bottom of the pot to facilitate the water flow and to avoid the asphyxiation of the roots which is always fatal. The substrate should be composed of one part acidic soil for one part good potting soil to which you will add two handfuls of compost and ground horn powder.

Planting citrus trees in pots

Choose a young subject without any black trace on the foliage. The foliage should be shiny and smooth. Also check for the presence of parasites on the back of the leaves before buying. The roots must not form a bun or escape from the pot as this would compromise the recovery.

In the spring, when all risk of frost has been eliminated, prepare the planting of your tree. To do this, soak the root ball for one hour in water at room temperature. Spread a bed of clay balls at the bottom of the pot and a layer of substrate. Place the root ball so that the neck of the plant is flush with the surface. Top up with the remaining substrate and pack the soil around the collar.

Water thoroughly.

Maintenance of potted citrus

Throughout the summer, your citrus trees can be installed in the garden or on the balcony to take the sun. Frequent watering is necessary because the soil dries out very quickly in these conditions. Remember to add a 'special citrus fertilizer' every two weeks during the growing season.

The pruning of the citrus fruits intervenes after the bloom. It consists in clearing the center of the plant to let air and light penetrate and to avoid the formation of pest nests and diseases to find a favorable ground for their propagation. It is also possible to pinch the new shoots on young plants to encourage a beautiful branching in early summer.

In autumn, bring in your citrus fruits before the first cold weather in a room that is not very heated but always free of frost and where the light will be maximum.

Wintering of potted plants

As winter approaches, the winterization of non-hardy potted plants on the balcony or on the terrace must be considered. It is advisable either to bring them inside or to take some precautions to allow them to spend the winter. We offer you some advice that should be adapted to your situation.

The non-hardy plants are plants which do not support the frost of the winter. Some of them can withstand small frosts but they will most likely perish with a frost of several days, especially since in pots the roots are less well protected, or even directly exposed because they are in contact with the container and therefore with the outside.

There are several categories of non-hardy plants. The least tolerant to the cold are tropical plants such as hibiscus or orchids that you should bring in first as soon as the temperature approaches ten degrees, between mid-September and mid-October depending on the weather. It is advisable to bring them in not too late to avoid too much change in conditions between your terrace or your garden and your interior. This shock could be harmful. You will bring in this type of plants in a bright room that does not go below 10 degrees. A veranda would be ideal.

Cacti do not appreciate the combination of autumn rains and cold weather which causes them to rot. Bring them in at the same time as your tropical plants and place them in a cool room like a garage with a light source if possible.

The last non-hardy plants to be brought in are Mediterranean plants such as oleanders, pelargoniums, palms or birds of paradise. Wait for the first frost to protect them, between mid-October and mid-November. Place your potted plants in a cool, airy place like a cellar or a garage. A little light will be ideal especially for the species with evergreen and clear foliage.

For the pots that you cannot bring inside, protect them from frost by moving them closer to the walls of the house or place them in a corner sheltered from cold winds. Wrap the pots with newspaper or bubble wrap and place your plant under a winter cover, not a plastic bag that will prevent the plant from breathing.

For all these plants, watering will be limited to the strict minimum to maintain a very light humidity, or even absent as for cacti. Remember to air and open your garage at the first beautiful days of spring. Mediterranean plants will be the first to come out as soon as the frost is over. Tropical plants will wait for better conditions to come out.

Wintering balcony geraniums

The pelargoniums of our balconies, often wrongly named geraniums, require very particular care if you wish to have the chance to see them blooming again the following spring. They are not very hardy, and wintering will be necessary for their survival in most of our regions.

At the end of October, when the days get shorter and the cold weather becomes more penetrating, clean your plants by doing a drastic pruning. Do not hesitate to cut back the stems, even if they are still flowering, up to 20 cm from the base of the plant for the ivy varieties. Keep only one third of the height of the stems of zonal pelargoniums and large-flowered species. Don't be afraid to do this: this pruning will make your plant all the more vigorous when it comes back. Moreover, it will be an opportunity for you to offer cuttings to the neighbors, which is always a pleasure!

At the same time, check your plants for pests and diseases. Cut off any damaged or diseased parts and burn them so that they do not contaminate the compost. Be careful, after this operation, disinfect your tools with alcohol so as not to spread the diseases, and if a plant is too sick to be sacrificed, soak its pot in bleached water and rinse it before using it again.

Once cleaned, install your pelargoniums in a cool but frost-free place: a garage, a well insulated garden shed, or better still a slightly heated veranda will do perfectly. Be careful though: the room must have at least one window so that your plants receive a minimum of light to survive, otherwise you will have to install artificial lighting.

Remove all the cups that could maintain a harmful humidity at the roots level and stop watering. Watering will only serve to keep the plant alive as it enters its vegetative resting period. One watering per month should be sufficient, but be sure that the foliage does not wilt. A lack of water is preferable to an excess during this period.

When the weather is fine and there is no risk of frost, you can gradually bring them out into the light, so as not to burn them. Once again, clean the yellowed or diseased parts and repot them in a special geranium potting soil mix already containing fertilizer. Remember to provide good drainage at the bottom of the pot and water after repotting to settle the soil and prevent air bubbles from forming.

Your pelargoniums will then be ready to start a new life for an ever more flowering spring!

Please note that ivy-leaved pelargoniums are often less resistant than zonal pelargoniums. More light will be beneficial to them.