Herbs on the balcony

You don't have to have a vegetable garden to grow herbs! A well-exposed balcony is just as suitable. Instructions for use...

Some important notions

Aromatic plants that are delicious with cooked dishes or prepared as herbal teas are perfectly suited to growing in pots or planters on a balcony. However, it is necessary to respect some simple parameters:

For an assured success choose your plants in cups, already well developed. The roots should not protrude too much from the pot and should not form a bun in the pot, a sign of suffering that would make it difficult to recover.

Check the foliage carefully: it should be healthy, vigorous, without suspicious spots or traces of mold.

The plants you choose should be suited to the exposure of your balcony. Thus, for a balcony exposed to the shade or half-shade, prefer to plant the various varieties of mint, parsley or coriander that will withstand these growing conditions.

In the sun, oregano, rosemary, sage, basil, lemon balm but also thyme of various varieties will grow without worry.

Most of these plants appreciate a sunny exposure and a well-drained substrate.

How do I plant herbs on my balcony?

The choice of container is important. Always choose a large and deep enough container so that the roots can develop well and so that you can add a bed of gravel or clay balls at the bottom to ensure good drainage, which is essential for growing herbs.

The pot should have a hole in the bottom to allow for proper drainage of watering, this will prevent the plants from rotting by asphyxiation.

Aromatic plants require a light substrate ideally composed of a part of good potting soil, a part of compost and a part of river sand.

In individual pots or window boxes, play with colors, textures and mix foliage to create an enchanting decor. Dare to be original by planting unusual cultivars such as variegated thyme, purple basil or unusual mints!

Finally, if you choose to install several plants in a common planter, they should have the same sun and watering needs.

Easy maintenance

Place your plants according to their needs, in semi-shade or sun. Keep in mind that water evaporates faster in a pot than in the ground and water your plants often in summer and in hot, windy and dry weather. However, allow the mixture to dry to 2/3 between waterings and empty the cups.

Pruning the flowers will keep the plants healthy and prevent them from 'tiring' to produce seeds. To keep the plant compact and bushy, don't hesitate to prune the foliage if possible above a leaf bud. Your aromatics will take off again!

Flowering shrubs on the balcony

Adopt flowering shrubs on your balcony, some of which are perfectly at home there and will delight you with their blooms.

Garden hibiscus (Hibiscus syriacus)

Driven on stems, the hibiscus syriacus with its natural clumpy habit becomes a very original miniature tree perfectly adapted to life on a terrace or a balcony. You can buy it already formed or clear a trunk yourself by repeated pruning (it can withstand severe pruning without flinching!). The large single or double satin flowers are renewed all summer long.

Keys to success: in the sun, rose-type substrate lightened with a little coarse sand. Regular watering in summer, fertilizer every 5-6 times. Short pruning at the end of winter. Re-pot every year if possible. Very hardy.

Indian lilac (Lagerstroemia indica)

Driven on stems, the Indian lilac becomes a superb small tree. A breathtaking summer bloom with shimmering colors. A deciduous foliage taking beautiful colors in autumn (ochre, copper and purple....). A very decorative cinnamon-colored bark which peels off nicely in adult subjects... The Indian lilac is one of the rising stars of the garden. Many varieties are much more resistant to the cold than you might think!

Keys to success: deep pot (vigorous roots), well-drained substrate, sun, warmth but high humidity, pruning at the end of winter, copious and frequent watering in summer, repotting every 2-3 years. Moderate hardiness (winter protection).

The panicled hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata)

This unusual panicled hydrangea offers an impressive summer bloom with its huge panicles of creamy white flowers that fade to very decorative "old rose" colors. Mostly bushy, this hydrangea can also form a real small tree when pruned on a single stem.

Keys to success: well-drained, fertile and fresh substrate. Pruning possible at the end of winter (flowers on the wood of the year). Monthly fertilization from May to August. Re-potting every 3 years.

Other possible choices: flowering apple trees (Malus) and ornamental prunus (Prunus). 

Staging idea

Host a charming duo of an Indian lilac and a Hibiscus syriacus, both trained on stems. Choose the double versions of the latter, its crumpled and silky flowers are a perfect match for those of the Lagerstroemia. Dare to be colorful by offering them glazed pots with sparkling colors. The sun allows for all kinds of daring!

Aerate the whole in a "bouquet spirit" with light flowers and foliage (mugwort, 'Diamond Frost' euphorbia, gaura, grasses.). A star jasmine will bring a touch of green and perfume essential to the beautiful season.

Trees for my south-facing balcony

It looks like the South...

Oleander (Nerium oleander)

The oleander blooms throughout the summer season in a wide range of colors from pure white to dark red, through a whole range of pinks, yellows and oranges. The flowers are single, semi-double or double depending on the variety chosen. There are cultivars with small development, appreciable in cold climate during the wintering out of frost.

Keys to success: fertile substrate (rose soil or half soil and garden soil), annual resurfacing and repotting every 3 years. Pruning at the end of winter. Regular, copious watering (2 to 3 times a week). Bring in before the first frost.

The olive tree (Olea europea)

The good behavior of the olive tree in a pot justifies the craze of city dwellers for this beautiful Mediterranean tree. In the trade, it can be found trained on a more or less high stem (quarter, half). Choose varieties that are resistant to cold and disease, such as 'Anglandau'. The latter is self-fertile: you can even have olives if the winter is mild!

Keys to success: pot almost as wide as the tree's branch, well-drained substrate (Mediterranean type plants). Water weekly in summer. In winter, avoid waterlogging the soil, especially if it freezes. In cold climates, overwinter out of the freezer (in a lighted, unheated room, not in the house!). Re-pot every 3-4 years.

The hemp palm (Trachycarpus fortunei)

This Chinese palm does well in a container. It keeps modest proportions compatible with balcony life while maintaining a majestic silhouette. Its large, pleated, evergreen fans are topped by a thin, cylindrical trunk.

Keys to success: container twice the size of the root ball, fertile and well-drained substrate. Spare it from cold drafts, mulch generously in autumn and wrap the pot with a winter veil if it freezes for a long time. Re-pot every 3-4 years.

Eucalyptus gunnii

The young foliage of Eucalyptus gunnii is evergreen and particularly decorative, making it a perfect backdrop for all the flowers on the balcony. The round leaves are a beautiful bluish-green with silver reflections and become longer as they age.

Keys to success: a large pot (50 cm minimum), a substrate such as rose soil + 1/3 coarse sand, copious watering in summer to keep the root ball fresh. Protect from cold drafts and winter frosts (winter cover). Re-pot every 3-4 years.

Staging ideas

Around an olive tree that is already well formed in a beautiful terra cotta pot, create a decor with southern accents by welcoming other warm weather enthusiasts. Agave, cordyline or purple phormium can bring a graphic and exotic note. The generous and sparkling bloom of an oleander or a lantana will bring color to the scene all summer long. You may also prefer a softer Provencal version with two or three pots of lavender and a Mauritania bindweed.

Beautiful pelargoniums all summer long

We often admire beautiful pots of flowering pelargoniums on balconies and terraces but it is sometimes difficult to reproduce the same result at home. Follow our tips and you will get a result beyond your expectations!

The right exposure

Pelargoniums like warmth and a very sunny exposure. Place your pots in full sun to obtain a maximum bloom. In the south, Pelargoniums can tolerate a few hours of shade during the hottest hours of the day.

Don't forget that these plants are not hardy, at the beginning of the season protect them from night frost with a winter veil and in case of a big cold snap, bring them in under cover.

The container

The container should be large enough to accommodate the plant. It should have a hole in the bottom so that the water drains well and does not stagnate at the roots, which Pelargoniums fear. For the same reason, avoid containers with water reserves that retain too much moisture. Then you will just have to choose the material: terracotta, resin or wood, it doesn't matter!

The substrate

Pelargoniums are greedy. The substrate must be fertile. Mix a good commercial potting soil and compost. Add a few handfuls of crushed horn. Don't forget to provide a drainage bed at the bottom of the pot. It can be made of clay balls, gravel or even pottery shards.

Very regular watering

Leaves that turn brown or wilt are a sign of lack of water. To avoid this phenomenon, water your pelargoniums very regularly so that the soil never dries out completely between two waterings. Never leave water in the cups.

From May to September, add a special geranium fertilizer every 10 days after a copious watering in order to avoid burning the roots.

A necessary maintenance

To keep your pots looking good, remove yellowed or dried leaves. Cut off diseased branches and burn them. Don't forget to prune the faded flowers to avoid the exhaustion of the plant and encourage the birth of new flower buds.

To keep your plant compact and induce its branching, you can pinch the ends of the stems from time to time, but you will have to wait a little to see it bloom.

Growing a rose in a pot

If you are not fortunate enough to have a garden, there is nothing to stop you from growing a potted rose on your terrace or balcony. With proper care and by respecting simple parameters, you will soon be able to fully enjoy the beauty of these exceptional flowers and their legendary fragrance.

Choosing the right rosebush

Everything will depend on the space you can give to your plant and therefore on the size of the pot. The majority of modern roses accept this method of cultivation, simply avoid planting a climbing rose with a large growth.

For small spaces, the choice will be miniature roses or ground cover roses which have a lesser development.

The cultivation of a bush rose is quite feasible if you install it in a deep enough pot.

How to plant a rose in a pot?

• Choose a beautiful subject in a container, so you can plant it all year round. For bare root or root ball roses, you will have to wait until November.
• Choose a pot at least 40 cm deep, preferably in clay to ensure better oxygenation of the roots.
• Spread a 5 cm layer of clay balls at the bottom of the pot after covering the drain hole with a pebble or a shard.
• Fill 1/3 of the pot with good commercial potting soil containing a slow release fertilizer.
• Place the rosebush in the pot after soaking its roots in a bucket of water at room temperature.
• Bare-root plants should be pruned and pruned before planting.
• Calculate the planting height so that the grafting point of the rose is flush with the surface of the pot.
• Complete with potting soil.
• Never bury the grafting point.
• Pack, water, and adjust the height of the potting soil.
• Spread a mulch of pine bark on the surface of the soil.
• Place your rosebush in a very sunny place.

Maintenance tips

A rosebush in a pot dries out much more quickly than a rosebush in the ground. Remember to water it often without letting water stagnate in the cup at the risk of seeing the roots suffocate.

Avoid watering the foliage to limit the appearance of cryptogamic diseases.

In the spring, make regular applications of "special rose" fertilizer to support the flowering.

Cut off the faded flowers above a new eye in the axil of the first leaf, this will allow to obtain new shoots and thus new flowers.

Treat with Bordeaux mixture to avoid the appearance of diseases.

Monitor the appearance of aphids and treat with nettle manure.

Prune in February/March.

Growing an oleander in a pot

The oleander is an ornamental shrub that blooms for nearly 6 months if the growing conditions are suitable. Frileux, it will have to be wintered in the less privileged regions, this is why a culture in container is appropriate to him well.

Oleander Who are you?

The oleander (Nerium oleander) is a shrub that grows naturally near waterways that dry up in summer from the eastern Mediterranean basin to China. That's why it needs more water than the sellers would have us believe.

White, pink, red, yellow, peach, single or very double flowers, you will be spoiled for choice!

Be careful, all parts of the plant are very toxic if ingested.

How to plant the oleander in a pot?

The laurel is a shrub with strong development. Prefer to install it in a large container where it will have the space to develop well.

• Choose a large enough container with a hole in the bottom;
• Pour a layer of clay balls or gravel equivalent to 20% of the volume of the pot;
• Make a mixture of potting soil, garden soil and compost, add a shovelful of river sand;
• Pour a layer of this mixture into the pot;
• Place your laurel so that its collar is flush with the top of the pot;
• Fill in the gaps around the plant, centering it well;
• Pack around the foot;
• Water.

How to care for a bay tree in a pot?

Place your oleander in a sunny location to ensure maximum flowering. Potted plants can be overwintered in a greenhouse or a veranda if you live in a region where frost is common. Bring your laurel inside as soon as the first frosts arrive in autumn, you can take it out again once the risk of frost is over.

Watering should be regular in summer, especially in hot and dry weather. One or two waterings may be necessary per week. Caution: never let water stagnate in the saucer. Complete the watering by adding fertilizer for flowering plants every 15 days during the growing season.

In winter, give your laurel a rest period by placing it in full light in a relatively cool room (about 10°C). You will then only water it every 15 days.

Pruning the oleander is not mandatory. This shrub produces its flowers on the wood of the previous year, pruning them would certainly allow to obtain a fuller and bushier plant but would compromise the blooming. However, if you must prune it to save space in the winter storage room, prune it in the fall, just after flowering. Clear the center of the plant by cutting off the branches that cross or that are dead. Remove some stems at the base around the plant if necessary to reduce the width. As for the height, try to keep it so that you can enjoy the flowering the following year.