Growing a rose in a pot

If you are not fortunate enough to have a garden, there is nothing to stop you from growing a potted rose on your terrace or balcony. With proper care and by respecting simple parameters, you will soon be able to fully enjoy the beauty of these exceptional flowers and their legendary fragrance.

Choosing the right rosebush

Everything will depend on the space you can give to your plant and therefore on the size of the pot. The majority of modern roses accept this method of cultivation, simply avoid planting a climbing rose with a large growth.

For small spaces, the choice will be miniature roses or ground cover roses which have a lesser development.

The cultivation of a bush rose is quite feasible if you install it in a deep enough pot.

How to plant a rose in a pot?

• Choose a beautiful subject in a container, so you can plant it all year round. For bare root or root ball roses, you will have to wait until November.
• Choose a pot at least 40 cm deep, preferably in clay to ensure better oxygenation of the roots.
• Spread a 5 cm layer of clay balls at the bottom of the pot after covering the drain hole with a pebble or a shard.
• Fill 1/3 of the pot with good commercial potting soil containing a slow release fertilizer.
• Place the rosebush in the pot after soaking its roots in a bucket of water at room temperature.
• Bare-root plants should be pruned and pruned before planting.
• Calculate the planting height so that the grafting point of the rose is flush with the surface of the pot.
• Complete with potting soil.
• Never bury the grafting point.
• Pack, water, and adjust the height of the potting soil.
• Spread a mulch of pine bark on the surface of the soil.
• Place your rosebush in a very sunny place.

Maintenance tips

A rosebush in a pot dries out much more quickly than a rosebush in the ground. Remember to water it often without letting water stagnate in the cup at the risk of seeing the roots suffocate.

Avoid watering the foliage to limit the appearance of cryptogamic diseases.

In the spring, make regular applications of "special rose" fertilizer to support the flowering.

Cut off the faded flowers above a new eye in the axil of the first leaf, this will allow to obtain new shoots and thus new flowers.

Treat with Bordeaux mixture to avoid the appearance of diseases.

Monitor the appearance of aphids and treat with nettle manure.

Prune in February/March.

Growing an oleander in a pot

The oleander is an ornamental shrub that blooms for nearly 6 months if the growing conditions are suitable. Frileux, it will have to be wintered in the less privileged regions, this is why a culture in container is appropriate to him well.

Oleander Who are you?

The oleander (Nerium oleander) is a shrub that grows naturally near waterways that dry up in summer from the eastern Mediterranean basin to China. That's why it needs more water than the sellers would have us believe.

White, pink, red, yellow, peach, single or very double flowers, you will be spoiled for choice!

Be careful, all parts of the plant are very toxic if ingested.

How to plant the oleander in a pot?

The laurel is a shrub with strong development. Prefer to install it in a large container where it will have the space to develop well.

• Choose a large enough container with a hole in the bottom;
• Pour a layer of clay balls or gravel equivalent to 20% of the volume of the pot;
• Make a mixture of potting soil, garden soil and compost, add a shovelful of river sand;
• Pour a layer of this mixture into the pot;
• Place your laurel so that its collar is flush with the top of the pot;
• Fill in the gaps around the plant, centering it well;
• Pack around the foot;
• Water.

How to care for a bay tree in a pot?

Place your oleander in a sunny location to ensure maximum flowering. Potted plants can be overwintered in a greenhouse or a veranda if you live in a region where frost is common. Bring your laurel inside as soon as the first frosts arrive in autumn, you can take it out again once the risk of frost is over.

Watering should be regular in summer, especially in hot and dry weather. One or two waterings may be necessary per week. Caution: never let water stagnate in the saucer. Complete the watering by adding fertilizer for flowering plants every 15 days during the growing season.

In winter, give your laurel a rest period by placing it in full light in a relatively cool room (about 10°C). You will then only water it every 15 days.

Pruning the oleander is not mandatory. This shrub produces its flowers on the wood of the previous year, pruning them would certainly allow to obtain a fuller and bushier plant but would compromise the blooming. However, if you must prune it to save space in the winter storage room, prune it in the fall, just after flowering. Clear the center of the plant by cutting off the branches that cross or that are dead. Remove some stems at the base around the plant if necessary to reduce the width. As for the height, try to keep it so that you can enjoy the flowering the following year.

Growing a lemon tree in a pot

For climatic reasons the cultivation of the lemon tree in open ground is sometimes compromised. Fortunately it is possible to grow it in a pot.

A plant not very hardy

Although the lemon tree is given to support temperatures up to -7°C, it remains very fragile and can be cultivated in the open ground only in the zone known as "the orange tree". Everywhere else, it is preferable to grow it in pots in order to winter it out of the frost during the cold season.

Some parameters must be taken into account to ensure a good success and perhaps taste its acidulous fruits.

Planting the lemon tree in a pot

The lemon tree hates to have its roots constantly soggy so the substrate dedicated to it should be well draining.

• Choose a large container or a pot preferably in terra cotta with holes or in wood to let the air circulate freely. The container should have a hole in the bottom to ensure good water drainage.
• Place a thick layer of gravel or clay balls equivalent to about 20% of the volume of the pot at the bottom.
• Make up a mixture of good potting soil, compost and medium-grained river sand.
• Spread a layer of this mixture on the bottom of the pot and place your lemon tree in it so that the grafting point protrudes slightly from the surface of the pot because it should never be buried.
• Fill in the empty spaces with the mixture and pack around the plant.
• Water copiously to eliminate any air bubbles in the soil.
• If necessary, add more mixture to the surface.

Maintenance of the lemon tree in pot

Often placed on a terrace during the summer, the lemon tree is subject to strong evaporation. Like all citrus trees, it needs very regular watering during this season to grow optimally. The mixture should never dry out completely between two waterings in summer, but be careful not to leave any stagnant water in the cup! Add "special citrus" fertilizer once a month to ensure good fruiting.

From autumn onwards, the lemon tree will be wintered in a very bright and frost-free location. The ideal temperature should be between 8 and 12°C. The watering will be more spaced and it will be possible to let the soil dry between two of them.

After the harvest, it will be possible to prune the lemon tree. Cut the dead branches at their base and remove the one that crosses inside the frame to let in a maximum of light. In spring, pinch off the ends of branches to keep a compact habit and ensure good branching.

Growing basil in a pot

Aromatic plant queen of the summer, the basil is not only cultivated in the vegetable garden. On a balcony or a terrace, it will find its place and will be thus within reach to decorate your salads or your cooked dishes.

When to sow basil in a pot ?

The sowing of basil can be carried out in the shelter in a premature way in mini heated greenhouse as of March. For direct sowing in pots on the balcony, wait until the temperatures have stabilized and there is no risk of frost. From then on, you can sow it until July to stagger the harvest.

Which varieties to sow?

In the kitchen, the two star varieties are 'Grand Vert' used in salads to accompany the famous mozzarella tomato or to make the pistou soup so dear to the heart of the Provençal people, and 'Fin vert' with its small leaves known for their even stronger flavor than the previous variety.

For its compact habit, ideal for the culture in pot, 'Dolly' produces very aromatic leaves, or still 'Finissimo Verde' which forms a compact ball of small very scented leaves. Those who like originality should consider 'Purple Opal' or 'Purpurascens', varieties with purple leaves that always make an impression, or 'Cinnamon' basil with a cinnamon flavor.

How to sow basil in a pot?

• Prepare a mixture of 2/3 potting soil to 1/3 river sand.
• Choose a 15 cm diameter terracotta pot and place a pebble over the hole at the bottom of the pot to prevent the substrate from escaping.
• Fill the pot with the mixture to within 1 cm of the top edge.
• Pack well and water to keep the substrate moist.
• Sow your seeds half a centimeter apart and cover them with a thin layer of mixture.
• Water lightly and place a plastic film or a glass plate on the pot to create a greenhouse effect that will help germination.
• As soon as the seedlings appear, remove the protection and continue watering very often.

How to grow basil in a pot?

Basil needs a lot of sun to bloom, place the pot in a warm and sunny area. In these conditions, it will quickly get thirsty, so don't forget to water it very often so that the substrate never dries out completely between two waterings.

Cut the end of the stems regularly to induce the branching of the plant but also to prevent it from flowering, which would shorten its life.

Scratch a little ground horn every month at the base of your basil to support its growth.

Never let water stagnate at the bottom of the bowl.

Growing vines in pots

If you are not lucky enough to have a plot of land or even a small garden, do not give up the idea of growing a vine because it will grow very well in a pot on the balcony or terrace.

Characteristics of the vine

The grapevine (Vitis vinifera) is a vigorous climber that can, over the years, form an impressive vine. The pot and the location should be chosen according to these criteria.

Self-fertile, you will not need to install several plants to see it bear fruit. Only a very sunny and warm location will be absolutely necessary.

Choice of the location

As we have seen, the balcony or terrace should be well exposed and receive several hours of full sun per day. The vine climbs quickly and needs a support. On a terrace, an arbour or a trellis will do the trick. On a balcony, you can use the railing to make it run all along or install it along a wall by providing a solid trellis or wires stretched horizontally so that it clings to it with its tendrils.

Choice of the pot

The pot should be deep enough to allow the roots to sink into the substrate, but also to compensate for the plant's highly developed aerial part and thus keep it well balanced.

A container or a planter of 60 cm deep minimum will be perfect to cultivate your vine. Whatever the container, it should of course be pierced at the bottom, because the vine hates to have its roots constantly soggy, which could cause the appearance of various diseases.

Plantation of the vine in pot

• Choose a variety adapted to the climatic conditions of your balcony and if possible resistant to the main diseases.
• Provide a good drainage layer at the bottom of the pot (about 20% of the volume) with gravel or clay balls. Prepare a mixture of slightly clayey garden soil, potting soil and compost. Spread a layer of the mixture over the drainage bed.
• Place the vine in the center of the container and adjust its height so that only the roots remain well buried.
• Start to fix the stems on their support, they will then climb by themselves.
• Pack the substrate and water.

The culture of the vine in pot

Once installed in a sunny place, the vine will need little care, however watering should be a little more frequent than in the ground but it will support the drought for a short period. Train the new shoots as they appear and prune in winter.

Growing plants in pots

Not everyone is lucky enough to have a garden. Potted plants allow you to bring nature into your home, but also to extend the pleasure on a balcony or even a terrace. In pots, plants are far from their natural growing conditions, the difficulty being to recreate them and to ensure the necessary contributions to their survival

A reasoned choice

The plant coveted in the garden center must correspond to the conditions of luminosity, heat and hygrometry of its future location. This way you will have more chances on your side for the success of its culture in pot. For example, it is useless to grow cacti in a dark and cool apartment or fuchsias in full sun on a south-facing terrace. The choice of the plant is thus crucial for the future success.

A suitable substrate

Growing in a pot means knowing the exact needs of each plant in order to choose the right substrate. A plant installed in the garden will have a huge amount of soil at its disposal, it can spread its roots as it pleases, deep or on the surface to find the necessary nutrients. This is not the case for our potted subject, which will depend on the quantity and quality of the substrate offered in a more or less narrow container. The key word is always the same: adaptation to the needs!

Always ask about the needs of the plant and compose its substrate according to its needs: very light by adding sand, very fertile based on potting soil and organic amendments, neutral, acid, limestone ... The same goes for the container: plants with taproots will need a very deep pot, while those with weak development will be satisfied with a half pot.

Controlled watering

Potted plants must always be watered more than the same species in the ground. Evaporation is much more important under these growing conditions, especially in the case of potted plants installed on a terrace sheltered from rainfall but exposed to full sun and drying winds. The roots are very quickly dry and surrounded by a container that heats up quickly, without regular watering the catastrophe will happen very quickly.

In apartments, watering should also be adapted. First of all to the cultivated variety, but also to the exposure and the heating method. The dry air emitted by electric heaters is harmful to most of the so-called "green" plants, which are often tropical plants that appreciate a high level of humidity. To compensate for the lack of humidity, you can install the greediest plants on large plates filled with clay balls that are kept constantly moist and baste their foliage twice a week. Be careful, however, never to leave stagnant water in the saucers after watering, as this could cause your plant to rot very quickly due to asphyxiation of the roots.

A regular supply of nutrients

As we have seen, potted plants quickly exhaust the few reserves present in the soil. To make up for this lack, there is nothing like a regular addition of adapted fertilizer during the growth period. For green plants, a fertilizer rich in nitrogen (N) is preferable, while for flowering plants the dose of potassium (K) and phosphorus (P) is more important. Always look at the N-P-K ratio on the package.