Planting a tree in the garden

Planting a tree reintroduces us to the rhythm of nature: that of the seasons with the blossoming, the fall colors, the fall of its leaves; that of the years because it takes its time to establish itself, its roots growing underground almost as much as its branches in the air: that's how much energy it needs!

Not all trees grow at the same speed. But be aware that the slowest-growing ones usually last the longest. Trees give you a bonus for patience!

Many tree species have more to offer than just shade. Some bloom spectacularly, such as cherry blossoms, evergreen magnolias, the silk tree. The flowers are even more spectacular when they appear before the leaves, as in the case of the paulownia, the purple plum tree or the Judas tree. Others bloom very early for the willows and their catkins, the Byzantine hazelnut tree or the Persian parrotia. They produce fruit in the fall like the clerodendrons with their small light blue pears with purple collars or the honey locust with its contorted mahogany pods. Some of these fruits remain on the branches well into the winter, such as the tiny apples of the ornamental apple trees or the orange or yellow berries of the mountain ash. On the other hand, some fruits are not desired, such as the horse chestnuts that must be picked up when they fall to the ground. The red chestnut tree has the advantage of producing very few fruits, and that's not bad!

But it's in the autumn finery that the trees put the package to surprise us: the yellow, the red, the shades of fire ... Nothing is too intense to make the beautiful before the fall of leaves. The list of the most beautiful fall colors is hard to determine. However, liquidambar, ginkgo, maple and American red oak are among the most spectacular!

Some species or varieties, smaller than others, allow you to enjoy this country shade regardless of the size of your garden. Some, such as the Judas tree, the Bohemian olive tree or the soap tree, hardly exceed 5 to 6 m in height and 3 to 4 m in width.

Our tip for choosing your tree


Prefer deciduous trees whose shade disappears when the leaves fall, in autumn, when they are no longer needed... Especially near the house, do not darken the interior in winter.

Wild pear tree, Pyrus pyraster : botanical card

Botanical sheet about wild pear tree, Pyrus pyraster

Location of the wild pear tree


The wild pear tree is a fruit tree present throughout France, but it is rare to find it in the north and in the Mediterranean region.

Attention: it can be confused with the heart-leaved pear tree, Pyrus cordata, a shrub from 3 to 8 meters high, whose frugality allows it to colonize the most ungrateful environments.

Description of the wild pear tree


The Pyrus pyraster is a tree with slow and limited growth. Indeed its cyme, in the shape of pyramid, rarely exceeds a height of 11 to 15 meters.

It is known for its exceptional longevity, commonly exceeding 300 years.

The foliage of the wild pear tree is rather dense. Its branches carry numerous small oval and elongated leaves and its white and very early (April) flowers are hermaphroditic. The small, almost round pears they produce are acrid and astringent.

Note: the wild pear tree is the origin of most of the fruit varieties of pears currently cultivated. It is still used as a rootstock by nurserymen.

The diseases of the wild pear tree


Be careful, the wild pear tree is sensitive to various diseases:
  • rots which settle in the wounds which can be caused to its foot;
  • to fire blight ;
  • torso fiber (uniform inclination of the vessels and fibers of the wood in relation to the axis of the tree), a genetic defect resulting in a "screwed" wood, unsuitable for sawing and thus for noble uses (carpentry, joinery, slicing...).

The uses of wild pear wood


The wild pear tree has a homogeneous wood, very hard, of a generally reddish brown color. Its grain, of a great fineness and an exceptional polish, directs its use towards quality products such as violin making, slicing for top-of-the-range veneers, marquetry, turning, sculpture or engraving.

In rural crafts, many objects from the past still testify to its use due to its remarkable resistance: pulleys, stretchers, levers, grooved wheels, pulleys...

Do you want to plant a wild pear tree?


The wild pear tree appreciates acid to neutral, compact, light and drained soils. It is a heliophilic species; it therefore needs a sunny or, failing that, a semi-shady exposure.

Frequently asked questions about the Japanese maple

Admired by all for their elegant habit and their flamboyant colors, Japanese maples require very specific growing conditions. From substrate to watering, from the best planting period to the ideal exposure, you will know everything about these fascinating trees!

How to properly water a Japanese maple?


An Acer should be watered very often but moderately. The humidity level of the air determines the frequency of watering. If it is planted in the undergrowth or under the cover of large trees among dense vegetation, it will better withstand heat episodes thanks to the evapo-transpiration of other plants. The watering will be less sustained in this case, but it is important to keep in mind that this tree feeds itself first of all by its superficial roots. The soil must be kept fresh at this level by regular watering and mulching.

Be careful not to over-water as soggy soil can cause root disease.

How to water a newly planted Japanese maple?


A very abundant watering is done at planting to eliminate any air pockets around the roots. If it rains and the soil is wet on the surface, avoid watering for 15 days because the new roots form better if the soil is not soaked. After that, one watering per week is sufficient until May, when temperatures rise and growth really starts. The frequency of watering increases to every 5 days.

In winter, let nature take its course, except in regions where it does not rain. Watering once a week or even every 10 days will be sufficient.

How to prune a Japanese maple?


It all depends on the species and variety! Some maples do not need pruning, such as true dwarf varieties like 'Hupps Dwarf' or ground cover varieties. The green and red Acer dissectum cultivars have a drooping habit, which widens and then forms real waterfalls; their juvenile branches cover the older ones. For all these varieties, a simple pruning at the end of winter will be necessary to remove the dead wood.
For the other species and varieties of Japanese maples, pruning must be done in a very clean way on branches of 3 to 5 cm in diameter maximum so that the wounds can close as soon as possible.
close as quickly as possible.

On a typical young Acer palmatum, training pruning consists in increasing the number of low branches. Growth will be slowed down but the roots will develop better. In late February, prune to 3 or 4 pairs of buds. The last pair should face the outside of the tree. In subsequent years, prune the previous year's growth to 3 buds still facing outward.

For other species and cultivars, it is necessary to observe the size of the buds and their distribution on the branches. If these buds are smaller and smaller as they rise, the training pruning can be short. On the contrary, if the terminal bud is the biggest, it will be necessary to avoid short pruning.

Once the tree is formed, a transparent pruning is sufficient; it consists in thinning out all the branches to favor the penetration of light and wind while taking care to preserve a beautiful silhouette of the tree and to respect its port.

Growing conditions of the Japanese maple


To properly grow a Japanese maple, it is necessary to get as close as possible to the growing conditions of its natural environment. These maples grow in the undergrowth bathed by a humid climate in summer and less frequent rains in winter.

In these regions, the porous volcanic soil with a neutral or acidic tendency suits them perfectly. The cover of the undergrowth provides them with a subdued light, they are never exposed for long hours to the burning sun but benefit from a few rays of light at the right time of the day. An exposure sheltered from the wind, to the North-West or North-East to receive only a few sunrays in the morning or evening seems ideal.

The Japanese maple fears above all the heat wave and the drought, a balanced watering and frequent misting in case of very dry air will always be beneficial. However, the soil must not retain excess water or be impermeable, compact and asphyxiating. A well drained, fertile, fresh soil with a neutral to acid pH is necessary for its culture.

Is it necessary to prune the shoots on grafted Japanese maples?


If a branch comes out under the grafting point on a Japanese maple, it is necessary to remove it flush with the trunk because the rootstock could then become stronger than the graft and you would lose the characteristics of the tree you have chosen.

Can I water a Japanese maple with tap water?


If the pH of your water is neutral or acid, tap water can be used. If the water is hard, you should store rainwater in water harvesters or tanks to water your maples. If you have a shortage of rainwater, it is possible to compensate by using "pH -" (available in swimming pool stores and sometimes even in supermarkets). These tablets are added to tap water to lower its pH if it is basic.

Can I grow a Japanese maple in a pot?


It is possible to grow the Japanese maple in a pot, for example, if the soil at home is chalky or if you want to decorate your terrace. A plastic pot is preferable because the roots of the maple tend to stick to the walls of clay pots. Knowing that frequent repotting is necessary, it will be easier.
  • Choose a pot with a diameter 10 cm larger than the original one.
  • Place a layer of pozzolan or clay balls at the bottom of the pot to ensure drainage. Plant your maple tree in a rich mixture of one part good potting soil, one part heather soil and one part compost.
  • Water once or twice a week without leaving any water in the saucer.
  • Scratch a mixture of ground horn and dried blood at the foot in March, taking care not to hurt the superficial roots.
  • In winter protect the pot from rain and wind.

Can you make maple syrup with a Japanese maple?


No. The most used species are large maple trees such as Acer saccharum and Acer nigrum which must be more than 30 years old and whose trunk must exceed 30 cm in diameter so that the collection of the sap does not generate too many risks for the health of the tree.

Harvesting takes place from mid-February to mid-March when night temperatures are negative and day temperatures are below 5°C. Do not expect to harvest maple syrup in the Mediterranean area!

Why do the leaves of my Japanese maple seem 'toasted'?


At the beginning of cultivation, it is not rare that this phenomenon appears for various reasons. The main one is an insufficient root system to ensure the cooling of the leaves. With the years, the maple will be less sensitive to climatic variations. Another cause: an exposure to too much sun or too much wind.

If, in addition to frying, the leaves fall, it is necessary to reduce watering without suspending it.

Why doesn't my maple tree develop new leaves in spring?


This is the obvious symptom of a cultivation problem and a problem with the roots. A substrate that is too heavy, retaining excess water, can be responsible for root asphyxia. It will then be necessary to review its planting in a much more draining environment if the plant can still be saved.

It is also possible that your maple tree does not have enough roots to feed all the branches and ensure the formation of buds. Adding mycorrhizae to the soil can help, as can adding compost. Reducing the aerial surface by light pruning will be welcome.

Also watch out for root aphids which can easily weaken a young tree!

What is a Japanese maple?


"Japanese maple" is a generic term for several species of small trees that are very popular in Japanese gardens and landscape art. Among these species: Acer palmatum and Acer japonicum are the most common, they are divided into many cultivars according to the characteristics of their foliage, their size and their port.

When and how to repot a Japanese maple?


About every two years, repot by gradually increasing the volume of the pot, at the end of February/beginning of March, when the buds start to swell.

A pot with a diameter of 10 cm or more will be sufficient. A mixture composed of 1/3 potting soil, 1/3 compost and 1/3 heather soil will be perfect. Don't forget the drainage with pozzolan!

When to harvest the seeds of Japanese maple?


The seeds or 'samaras' are harvested at maturity around October.

When to sow the seeds of Japanese maple?


Seeds can be sown as soon as they are mature after soaking for 24 hours in warm water. Place them in boxes or in small individual pots filled with potting soil and sand; in a sheltered corner of the garden, stratification will occur naturally.

In regions with very mild winters, a two-month stay in the refrigerator may be necessary before sowing to lift the dormancy.

What to do during a heat wave for potted maples?


Water at least two to three times a week in the early morning or evening after sunset and mist every evening long enough for the foliage to benefit.

Mulch the plant to keep the shallow root hairs cool.

What is the name of the maple fruit?


The fruit of the maple tree is a samara. The seed is attached to a supporting surface that looks like a membranous wing. With the action of the wind, the seed is thus moved to a good distance.  This membrane also has the property of floating, so it can be carried away by heavy rains.

Small-leafed lime tree, Tilia cordata : botanical card

Small-leafed lime: a species that is not very widespread


The small-leaf lime tree is not very widespread in Brittany. It would seem, however, that it was much more present during the Neolithic period.  However, it has only been maintained naturally on good soils, which are mainly located in the Rennes basin and the south-east of the Ile et Vilaine. Rare, it is thus necessary to work for its preservation.

Description of the small-leaf lime tree


The small-leaf linden is characterized by an exceptional longevity, up to five centuries.

It climbs very high (about 20 meters). The oldest lime trees exceptionally reach 30 meters.

The leaf is heart-shaped. The underside has reddish-blond hairs at the intersections of the veins.

The buds have two visible scales, green or reddish.

The hermaphrodite flowers appear late (July). Odorous, they are grouped in bouquets.


The fruits, globular winged seeds with protruding ribs, are grouped by 3 or 5.

Note: the linden appreciates a semi-shaded exposure to grow. Its growth is moderate but continuous.

Diseases and pests of the small-leaf basswood


The lime tree's enemies are mainly aphids and mealy bugs, attracted by the sap, but we can also meet :
  • mites, which cause galls on the foliage ;
  • caterpillars of the bucephale responsible for some defoliations, without great consequence;
  • lower fungi, not very damaging.

The qualities of the wood of small-leafed lime


The wood of small-leaf lime is clear, yellowish, soft and homogeneous: it is easy to work.

It is not recommended for outdoor use. It is therefore mainly used for the manufacture of toys, brush handles, mouldings, pencils, matches or spools. It is also very popular in the field of violin making and carving.

It provides an excellent charcoal and its fibrous bark was once used to make ropes, bags and sandals.

Its melliferous and fragrant flowers are used in perfumery and in herbal tea for their anti-spasmodic and diuretic properties.

Planting advice for the small-leaf linden


The small-leaf linden can withstand very cold weather, but it can't stand dry air and high temperatures.

It likes fresh or even humid, deep, well-drained soils, preferably neutral to calcareous.

10 shrubs to cut this summer

Summer is the ideal time to take cuttings from certain shrubs that will take advantage of the mild temperatures to put down roots very quickly.

1- The hydrangea 


(Hydrangea) is a very floriferous shrub that appreciates half-shaded exposures and acidic soils. The classic hydrangea (H. macrophylla) produces large white, pink or blue inflorescences from June to September, depending on the type of soil and the variety. The climbing hydrangea (H. petiolaris) wonderfully dresses up north-facing walls with its vaporous cream-colored flowers in June. The semi-hipped stem cuttings are very easy to take.

2- The rose 


(Rosa) comes in many species and varieties. You just have to take a 15 cm long branch still green or half-bearded with eyes, to remove the basal leaves and the possible flowers then to plant the cutting in a pot containing a light mixture.

3- Buddleia 


is a shrub famous for its colorful spike-like inflorescences that attract butterflies and other pollinating insects. Very easy to make a success of, the cutting can be done on a still green, semi-hardened, simple or heeled branch.

4- The oleander 


is one of the stars of the gardens of the South of France, which it magnifies with its delicately fragrant flowers from May to October. Ideal for forming beautiful flowering hedges, it can also be grown in large pots in colder regions. A simple 15 cm stem tip placed in a glass of water will soon put down roots.

5- Fuchsia 


comes in a multitude of species and cultivars with very attractive and colorful blooms. Hardy, bushy fuchsias, or varieties ideal for hanging baskets because of their drooping habit: there is something for everyone! A simple 10 cm semi-sprouted branch will soon give you a plant identical to the mother plant.

6- The snowberry 


is a charming shrub that produces small flowers in summer and very decorative white, pink or red berries in autumn. Birds love it, which makes it a perfect subject for an open hedge. Cuttings can be taken from semi-hardened branches in August.

7- St. John's Wort 


forms a spreading bush with pretty yellow flowers throughout the summer. It is maintenance free and can be grown in most soils, making it the ideal shrub for beginners. Take Augusted branches at the end of summer to cut it.

8- The flowering currant 


(Ribes sanguineum) is a shrub with very generous white, pink or red flowers, emitting a sweet smell of blackcurrant. It produces bluish berries in autumn, very appreciated by birds. The cuttings of half-hardened branches take root very quickly in summer.

9- The skimmia 


embalms the spring with its orange blossom fragrance produced by its white starry flowers. In winter the plant is very appreciated for its bright red berries. This shrub is ideal in a free hedge in an acidic soil. The semi-hardened branches are very easy to cut in summer.

10- Rosemary 


is an aromatic and medicinal plant that needs no introduction. Forming bushes covered with bluish flowers, sometimes upright and sometimes creeping, depending on the variety, it can be cut from semi-arched stems as early as July.

10 shrubs with decorative fruits

Shrubs are appreciated for the beauty of their foliage or the abundance of their flowers, but we sometimes forget that some have very ornamental fruits. Let's take a look at these shrubs with decorative fruits...

1. The snowberry 


The snowberry is a very vigorous, hardy and robust shrub that accepts most soils and even appreciates limestone. In full sun or half-shade, the snowberry is precious for its round pearly white or pink pearl-like berries that will adorn the garden throughout the bad season.

2. Japanese dogwood 


Japanese dogwood (Cornus Kousa) has a graphic flared habit and blooms spectacularly beginning in June. From fall to winter, pink lychee-shaped fruits adorn this exceptional shrub. Plant it in partial shade or full sun in humus-rich neutral or acidic soil.

3. The blue bean tree


 The blue bean tree, Decaisnea fargesii is a deciduous shrub that can reach 6 m in all directions. Clusters of greenish flowers are followed by slate-colored bean-like fruits from September to December. Hardy and easy to grow, it adapts to all types of soil and grows well in partial shade.

4. The clergy tree 


The clergy tree (Clerodendrum trichotomum) is a shrub not often planted in gardens, yet it has many qualities. Its white, starry and fragrant flowers appear at the end of summer and are followed by very decorative, dark blue berries, surrounded by an open fuchsia pink capsule that serves as a case for them. Rustic, it appreciates a rich and drained soil remaining fresh and a sunny exposure.

5. The Pheasant Tree


The Pheasant Tree (Leycesteria formosa) blooms from June to September in very ornamental red drooping clusters. The purplish red fruits, very appreciated by the birds, will follow them during the bad season. Very hardy (-20°C), it doesn't suffer from any parasite or disease attack and grows as well in half-shade as in full sun in all types of soils remaining cool.

6. The elder 


The elder is a shrub that grows by itself and without maintenance in most soils and under all exposures. Very hardy and vigorous, it produces umbels of white flowers in summer, followed by round, black berries that birds love.

7. The shrubby fusain 


The shrubby fusain (Euonymus phellomanus) spreads over 4 m in all directions and is suitable for most gardens, except in the South of the country because it does not tolerate heat and drought. This bushy shrub blooms in September and then covers itself with amazing red fruits topped with pink arils. It appreciates cool and rich soils and a half-shady exposure.

8. The candy shrub 


The candy shrub (Calicarpa bodinieri) is a small bushy shrub which appreciates half-shade and cool grounds. Very ornamental, it is covered with lilac-pink flowers from June to October and then with round berries of a beautiful purple.

9. The mahonia


The mahonia is precious for its winter flowering in golden clusters, followed by bluish pruney fruits very appreciated by birds. Hardy and easy to grow, this beautiful shrub has evergreen foliage. It is content with most soils and exposures.

10. The arbutus 


The arbutus appreciates all types of well-drained soils and full sun. In these conditions, this shrub with an erect habit and decorative bark can reach 4 m in height. The orange, spherical and warty fruits adorn the garden during the bad season, they are edible.

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