Camellia: family portrait

Buy your camellia in bloom to choose the most beautiful flowers. Learn about its characteristics keeping in mind the use you want to make of it.

There is a multitude of hybrids with very different qualities. If your home has a long, cold winter, choose a late blooming variety.

Japanese camellias are the most classic, the most rustic and those which present the greatest number of varieties with flower forms and colors sometimes very sophisticated or original. English hybridizations between Camellia japonica and Camellia saluensis, a Chinese from Yunnan, have given the x Williamsii series. These are extremely floriferous and have the advantage of being self-cleaning unlike Japanese camellias (the faded flowers fall off by themselves). With a more flexible habit and a more vigorous growth, the garden scenes will have a more natural style.

How to choose?

• The earliest: Bow Bells, Cornish Snow, Nobilissima, St Ewe, Sugar Dream, 'Takanini'.
• The longest bloomers: Bow Bells, Brigadoon, Donation (a very popular variety, soft pink that is bursting with flowers), Freedom Bell, Gloire de Nantes, Inspiration (large flowers), Takanini
• The most resistant to cold: A Audusson, Gloire de Nantes, Nobilissima
• The most adapted to pot culture (moderate vigor, reduced size, slow growth): Gay Baby, Night Rider, San Dimas
• The safe values (easy): A. Audusson, Debbie, Inspiration, Lavinia Maggi, Elegans, Mme Lourmand
• The most sophisticated (perfect shapes, shades): Ave Maria, Désir, Sunny Side
• The most original : Elegance Champagne (tinted with yellow), Tulip Time
• The most natural : Donation, Lily Pons, Mark Alan
• The fragrant ones: Cinnamon Cindy, Sugar Dream
• Extra in hedge (fast growing and important development): Cinnamon Cindy, Inspiration, St Ewe
• To be trained: soft branches: Cornish Snow, Debbie, Donation, Elegant Beauty

The reds

• Adolphe Audusson: (jap) camellia of French origin very popular and widespread. Vigorous, hardy, upright habit. Large semi-db cherry red flowers. Feb to April.
• Elegant Beauty: (hyb) vigorous, salmon red semi-db flower. March to May.
• Mark Alan: (jap) double anemone flower, cherry red, hardy and vigorous. March to May.
• Night Rider : (jap) semi-db miniature flower, dark red with purple young shoots. Very compact. Feb to April.
• San Dimas (jap) medium flower, bright red Feb to April.
• Takanini: (jap) small red anemone flower, fast growing. Nov to April.

The roses

• Ave Maria: (jap) vigorous variety, upright habit, medium size imbricated flower, pearly pink. Dec. to Mar.
• Bow Bells: (hyb de Saluenensis): bell-shaped pink flower, very early and very floriferous. January to April.
• Brigadoon: (hyb) very hardy, very floriferous, large single flower, likes cool summers. Feb to April.
• Debbie: (hyb) large peoniform flower, satin pink from February to April.
• Desire : (jap) admirable intertwined flower mixing pale pink and brighter pink. Vigorous. Feb to April.
• Donation : very popular variety, rustic, very floriferous, semi-double soft pink. Tolerates the sun. Jan. to April.
• Gloire de Nantes : (jap) old variety, semi-double bright pink flower. Long flowering. Dec. to March.
• Inspiration: (hyb) large parma pink flower, long bloom, Dec to Mar.
• St Ewe: (hyb) fast growing, slender habit, bright pink bell. Jan to April.
• Sugar Dream: (hyb of Oleifera) medium semi-db soft pink flower with creamy scented heart. Nov to Feb.
• Tulip Time: (jap) small single light pink tulip shaped flower! Dec to March.

The whites

• Cinnamon Cindy (hyb): small double flower, pinkish white, subtle cinnamon scent. Nov to April.
• Countess Lavinia Maggi: (jap) 19th century variety, imbricate, white streaked with carmine. Feb to April.
• Cornish Snow : (hyb) very floriferous. Small simple flower, white. Feb to April.
• Elegance Champagne (jap) large white flower with a champagne heart. Feb to May.
• Freedom Bell : (hyb) floriferous, hardy, small bright red bell-shaped flowers. Dec to March.
• Lily Pons : (jap) large single to semi-db pure white flowers. Jan to April.
• Nobilissima: (jap) early, very double medium white flowers with cream highlights, vigorous, Nov to Feb.
• Sunny Side : (jap) medium white flower hemmed with pink. Feb to April.

Choosing the right oak for your garden

The oak is a majestic tree representing strength and durability. Highly symbolic, this tree can live hundreds of years and should be chosen according to the size of your garden and the climate of your region. Here is an overview of the most common species...

An oak even in a small garden ?

If you dream of planting an oak tree but do not have a large garden, the solution exists: the Kermes oak (Quercus coccifera). It does not exceed two meters in height and can withstand wind, sea spray and drought, so it is ideal for planting in Mediterranean gardens.

Another heat lover, the cork oak (Quercus suber) will grow perfectly in the same conditions as the previous species, however it does not tolerate calcareous soil. It will reach a height of 10 meters but its growth is rather slow.

Another oak appreciating the southern regions, the holm oak (Quercus ilex), very tolerant to heat and drought, it appreciates limestone soils. Its nicely cut foliage, of a beautiful light green color, makes it a choice subject to install in a garden.

The pubescent oak (Quercus pubescens), more rustic than the species presented above, can be planted in most gardens. With its untidy and tortuous habit, it offers a beautiful spread (8 to 10 m). It should therefore not be installed in very small gardens!

The best species for large gardens

In a large garden, anything goes! Spreading out, incredible height and span, let yourself go crazy with the oak!

The sessile oak (Quercus petraea) is a choice subject in isolation because of its spreading silhouette. It can reach a height of 30 m for 25 m wide. Its golden foliage is very ornamental in the fall. It tolerates most soils, whether dry, neutral or acid, but does not tolerate limestone. Very hardy, it will do well in most regions.

The common oak (Quercus robur) also needs a well-adapted space to grow since it can reach 30 meters in height and 20 meters in span. It is one of the most difficult oaks in terms of the nature of the soil, which must be rather neutral. It hates dryness and needs constant coolness to grow well. Once these conditions are met, you will be rewarded by its beauty!

Great star of the gardens, the American red oak is a fast growing tree that will reach up to 25 meters in height for a spread of 15 to 20 m. Very hardy, it tolerates temperatures down to -25°C in winter. It appreciates non-calcareous and well-drained soils, but tolerates pollution and drought well, which is why it is often used as a line tree. Its foliage turns flamboyant red in autumn, which adds to its undeniable ornamental quality.

Ideal for very humid gardens, the swamp oak (Quercus palustris) will do well on the banks of rivers or in marshy areas, but only in plains because it does not tolerate altitude. This beautiful and slender tree of 20 meters high, very rustic, does not accept limestone soils. In autumn it is adorned with shimmering orange-red colors.

How to cut the spirea, a very flowering shrub?

When to cut the spirea ?

The spirea can be cut as soon as June and throughout the summer.

How to take cuttings ?

Take a stem of 25 cm already a little lignified (wood) on a healthy plant without any trace of disease or pests.

Remove the leaves from the base of the cutting and keep two or three.

Cut the stem above these two leaves to keep only a segment of about 10 cm and plant it directly in the soil leaving just the leaves above.

Choose a shady spot to make your cutting. For this propagation technique to work, you need to find the right balance between the time when the cutting is likely to dry out and the time when it will have the capacity to emit roots. If it is left in full sun or wind, the chances of success are greatly compromised because the cutting will perish before it has time to put down roots.

Water gently but generously at the foot of the cutting to soak the soil.

A trick consists in placing a glass jar upside down on the cutting in order to carry out the technique of cuttings in the smother. A hygrometry close to 100% will thus be preserved and the cutting will be protected from the climatic hazards and from the trampling of possible children or animals thanks to the jar.

How to maintain the cutting ?

Be sure to water regularly to maintain a correct humidity and favorable to the emission of new roots.

It is not necessary to remove the jar before 4 to 6 weeks, period during which new leaves should appear in the armpit of the old ones marking the effective recovery of the cutting.

Wait until winter to remove it and place it in an individual pot with potting soil if you wish to offer or exchange your cutting.

If you prefer to keep it, transplant it in the place of the garden that you will have dedicated to it. Remember to water after this operation, as well as the weeks following if it does not rain enough to ensure a good recovery.

How to cut the lantana ?

The lantana never ceases to charm visitors to southern gardens. To cut this plant with its brightly colored pompon inflorescences, nothing could be easier, follow the guide!

Lantana, who are you?

The lantana is a small shrub native to South America for most species. Its evergreen and aromatic foliage when crumpled between the fingers is covered with rounded inflorescences with attractive colors. Most often yellow, orange, pink, cream or red, the flowers follow one another from May until the first frost. In the most southern regions, it is not uncommon to see it blooming also in winter.

When to cut the lantana?

Cutting can be done in March in the warmth of the new shoots or in August on the semi-hardened stems.

How to take cuttings of lantana?

If you proceed to the cutting in March on a plant kept warm, the cutting will be made on a young tender and green shoot.

If you prefer to do it at the end of summer, the stem will be woody (hard) and straw-colored.

• Take a pruning shears whose blades will have been disinfected beforehand.
• Cut an end of the stem of 15 cm length.
• Remove any flower clusters and then the leaves, keeping only the last two leaves at the top of the cutting.
• Fill a bucket with a light mixture made of half of good soil and half of river sand.
• With the tip of a pencil, dig a hole in the center of the mixture 5 cm deep.
• Dip the end of the cutting into some powdered cutting hormone or willow water to increase your chances of success.
• Place the cutting in the hole previously made, taking care not to remove the hormone powder in the process.
• Gently close the soil around the stem and pack.
• Water in a fine rain.
• Place three or four vertical sticks (20 cm high) around the mixture along the wall of the pot. They will keep the translucent plastic bag that you will install on top out of contact with the cutting.
• Attach the plastic bag to the pot with a rubber band or raffia.

After taking a lantana cutting

• Place your cutting in a very bright light without direct sunlight.
• Wait about a month until the roots have formed before removing the plastic bag.
• Water and gradually place your cutting in the morning or late afternoon sun.
• Transplant 3 months later in a larger pot or in the garden if frosts are no longer a concern as the lantana does not tolerate the cold.

How to prune the camellia?

Pruning a camellia is not essential to its blooming or to its good health, but it is sometimes necessary to intervene to give it an aesthetic and compact habit. Let's see how to proceed...

When to prune the camellia ?

Wait until flowering is over before pruning your camellia. This plant blooms on the year's shoots. If you prune too late, you risk not seeing your camellia bloom the following year.

You can prune your camellia every year at this time if you want to maintain a compact habit and good branching.

It is possible to recut old subjects that are less floriferous and bald at the base, but this operation remains exceptional.

If a subject has been affected by frost and the leaves have 'burned', do not hesitate to prune as soon as the good weather returns. It will grow again forming eyes in the wood if the stump has not been touched.

Classic maintenance pruning

Prepare your pruning shears by sharpening the blades and disinfecting them with a flame or a cloth soaked in methylated spirits. This simple gesture avoids the propagation of diseases.

The classic maintenance pruning consists in keeping a harmonious silhouette to our camellia. It consists in cutting off the overhanging stems and the faded flowers to give the plant a pleasant shape. At the same time, you can take the opportunity to cut out dead wood and damaged, diseased or crossing stems in the center of the plant.

Shorten slightly the stems that protrude from the sides of the plant to give it a more rounded shape.

Prune any stems that compromise the symmetry of the shrub.

Rejuvenation pruning

Rejuvenation pruning is done on an old subject. The causes can be various:

• It takes up too much space in height;
• It becomes less floriferous with time;
• It is getting thinner at the base, which can be annoying in the case of camellias forming a hedge.

Take a handsaw with a disinfected blade and cut the trunk at about 50 cm from the ground.

Apply a green clay or propolis-based healing putty to sanitize and protect the cut area. Buds will form directly on the trunk as soon as the vegetation starts to grow again. To help this recovery, scratch a mixture of compost, ground horn powder and dried blood at the foot of your camellia. Water it regularly to support the recovery.

How to prune a butterfly tree?

The buddleia, better known as the 'butterfly tree', is a large shrub that can become very cluttered with age and recede from the base. Proper pruning will ensure that the shrub will bloom even more opulently and maintain its silhouette, so don't hesitate!

When to prune the buddleia?

Maintenance and rejuvenation pruning of Buddleia can be done from November to February, except during frosty periods.

A summer pruning is also possible in order to spread the flowering over long months.

How to prune a butterfly tree?

To prune a buddleia that is already well established, you will need a pruning saw for the larger branches and secateurs for the secondary branches and small stems. Don't forget to disinfect all blades with methylated spirits before pruning to prevent the spread of disease.

Maintenance pruning

• Start by clearing the center of the shrub by removing dead or aging branches with the saw. Prune squarely at the base of each branch to obtain a clean cut.
• Then locate all new growth and cut it back to within 3 to 4 centimeters of the old wood.
• Remove all secondary branches facing the inside of the tree with the pruning shears.
• The center of the tree should be clear and the silhouette harmonious.

Summer pruning

In order to obtain flowers for a longer period of time, it is possible, in addition to the maintenance pruning, to carry out a pruning at the beginning of the summer. This is done on the young shoots and requires pruning shears.

• Simply prune a third of the new shoots to stagger the production of flowers until October.
• You can repeat the operation in July/August, this time removing all the flowering stems.
• Do not hesitate to prune all the faded flowers to induce the formation of new flower buds.

Rejuvenation pruning

Over time, the butterfly tree takes on a neglected appearance, the branches, which can reach 4 meters in height, form a dense vegetal jumble. Less floriferous, it also risks suffocating the surrounding ornamental plants, so it is time to act!

This pruning should be done in winter outside the frost period.

• Prune without regret at ground level the oldest branches.
• Cut the remaining branches at 20 cm from the ground.