How to cut the lantana ?

The lantana never ceases to charm visitors to southern gardens. To cut this plant with its brightly colored pompon inflorescences, nothing could be easier, follow the guide!

Lantana, who are you?

The lantana is a small shrub native to South America for most species. Its evergreen and aromatic foliage when crumpled between the fingers is covered with rounded inflorescences with attractive colors. Most often yellow, orange, pink, cream or red, the flowers follow one another from May until the first frost. In the most southern regions, it is not uncommon to see it blooming also in winter.

When to cut the lantana?

Cutting can be done in March in the warmth of the new shoots or in August on the semi-hardened stems.

How to take cuttings of lantana?

If you proceed to the cutting in March on a plant kept warm, the cutting will be made on a young tender and green shoot.

If you prefer to do it at the end of summer, the stem will be woody (hard) and straw-colored.

• Take a pruning shears whose blades will have been disinfected beforehand.
• Cut an end of the stem of 15 cm length.
• Remove any flower clusters and then the leaves, keeping only the last two leaves at the top of the cutting.
• Fill a bucket with a light mixture made of half of good soil and half of river sand.
• With the tip of a pencil, dig a hole in the center of the mixture 5 cm deep.
• Dip the end of the cutting into some powdered cutting hormone or willow water to increase your chances of success.
• Place the cutting in the hole previously made, taking care not to remove the hormone powder in the process.
• Gently close the soil around the stem and pack.
• Water in a fine rain.
• Place three or four vertical sticks (20 cm high) around the mixture along the wall of the pot. They will keep the translucent plastic bag that you will install on top out of contact with the cutting.
• Attach the plastic bag to the pot with a rubber band or raffia.

After taking a lantana cutting

• Place your cutting in a very bright light without direct sunlight.
• Wait about a month until the roots have formed before removing the plastic bag.
• Water and gradually place your cutting in the morning or late afternoon sun.
• Transplant 3 months later in a larger pot or in the garden if frosts are no longer a concern as the lantana does not tolerate the cold.

How to prune the camellia?

Pruning a camellia is not essential to its blooming or to its good health, but it is sometimes necessary to intervene to give it an aesthetic and compact habit. Let's see how to proceed...

When to prune the camellia ?

Wait until flowering is over before pruning your camellia. This plant blooms on the year's shoots. If you prune too late, you risk not seeing your camellia bloom the following year.

You can prune your camellia every year at this time if you want to maintain a compact habit and good branching.

It is possible to recut old subjects that are less floriferous and bald at the base, but this operation remains exceptional.

If a subject has been affected by frost and the leaves have 'burned', do not hesitate to prune as soon as the good weather returns. It will grow again forming eyes in the wood if the stump has not been touched.

Classic maintenance pruning

Prepare your pruning shears by sharpening the blades and disinfecting them with a flame or a cloth soaked in methylated spirits. This simple gesture avoids the propagation of diseases.

The classic maintenance pruning consists in keeping a harmonious silhouette to our camellia. It consists in cutting off the overhanging stems and the faded flowers to give the plant a pleasant shape. At the same time, you can take the opportunity to cut out dead wood and damaged, diseased or crossing stems in the center of the plant.

Shorten slightly the stems that protrude from the sides of the plant to give it a more rounded shape.

Prune any stems that compromise the symmetry of the shrub.

Rejuvenation pruning

Rejuvenation pruning is done on an old subject. The causes can be various:

• It takes up too much space in height;
• It becomes less floriferous with time;
• It is getting thinner at the base, which can be annoying in the case of camellias forming a hedge.

Take a handsaw with a disinfected blade and cut the trunk at about 50 cm from the ground.

Apply a green clay or propolis-based healing putty to sanitize and protect the cut area. Buds will form directly on the trunk as soon as the vegetation starts to grow again. To help this recovery, scratch a mixture of compost, ground horn powder and dried blood at the foot of your camellia. Water it regularly to support the recovery.

How to prune a butterfly tree?

The buddleia, better known as the 'butterfly tree', is a large shrub that can become very cluttered with age and recede from the base. Proper pruning will ensure that the shrub will bloom even more opulently and maintain its silhouette, so don't hesitate!

When to prune the buddleia?

Maintenance and rejuvenation pruning of Buddleia can be done from November to February, except during frosty periods.

A summer pruning is also possible in order to spread the flowering over long months.

How to prune a butterfly tree?

To prune a buddleia that is already well established, you will need a pruning saw for the larger branches and secateurs for the secondary branches and small stems. Don't forget to disinfect all blades with methylated spirits before pruning to prevent the spread of disease.

Maintenance pruning

• Start by clearing the center of the shrub by removing dead or aging branches with the saw. Prune squarely at the base of each branch to obtain a clean cut.
• Then locate all new growth and cut it back to within 3 to 4 centimeters of the old wood.
• Remove all secondary branches facing the inside of the tree with the pruning shears.
• The center of the tree should be clear and the silhouette harmonious.

Summer pruning

In order to obtain flowers for a longer period of time, it is possible, in addition to the maintenance pruning, to carry out a pruning at the beginning of the summer. This is done on the young shoots and requires pruning shears.

• Simply prune a third of the new shoots to stagger the production of flowers until October.
• You can repeat the operation in July/August, this time removing all the flowering stems.
• Do not hesitate to prune all the faded flowers to induce the formation of new flower buds.

Rejuvenation pruning

Over time, the butterfly tree takes on a neglected appearance, the branches, which can reach 4 meters in height, form a dense vegetal jumble. Less floriferous, it also risks suffocating the surrounding ornamental plants, so it is time to act!

This pruning should be done in winter outside the frost period.

• Prune without regret at ground level the oldest branches.
• Cut the remaining branches at 20 cm from the ground.

How to prune a hydrangea?

A shrub with exuberant and spectacular blooms, the hydrangea is one of the best values in the garden. Over the years, it can lose its elegance or its vigor, so pruning will be necessary.

Hydrangea pruning in brief

Hydrangea pruning should be done at the end of winter in a rational way so as not to compromise the flowering which takes place on the previous year's shoots.

1. Cut off the faded flowers above the first bud under the flower.
2. Cut off dead and dry branches
3. Cut the stunted stems and those that cross to aerate the center.
4. Cut back very old stems to their base.

How to prune hydrangea?

There are several species of hydrangea, all of which are part of the Hydrangea genus.

The ball hydrangea sold in florists (Hydrangea macrophylla) is the most common one in gardens, which is the one we will deal with in this article.

This hydrangea blooms on the previous year's stems, so pruning should be light at the risk of not taking advantage of its beautiful bloom.

The pruning operation is done at the end of winter or at the very beginning of spring before the vegetation wakes up. At this time, the stems only have buds and remnants of last year's faded flowers. Start by removing these by pruning them just above the first bud present under the flower.

You will then have to give a nice aspect to the shrub, especially if it has not been pruned for a long time and that the branches form a dense vegetal jumble. To do this, cut off all the dead and dry branches with the secateurs. Take advantage of this to trim the weak stems at their base as well as those that cross each other in order to clear the center of the plant and thus provide it with better air and light penetration. This important step avoids the installation of parasites and limits the development of diseases.

As we have seen, it is not advisable to prune all the stems at the risk of not being able to enjoy the flowers during the summer. A selection must be made in order to ensure the renewal of the shoots, to give back vigor to the hydrangea while keeping a maximum of branches bearing flowers. If your hydrangea is an old subject, cut back the very old stems at their base. You will recognize them by their larger diameter and lighter color. Keep at least two thirds of the branches unpruned to enjoy a beautiful bloom.

Cutting back hydrangeas

Hydrangeas can be cut back on older plants that have lost their vigor and whose inflorescences become smaller each year. In this case, it is possible to sacrifice one year of flowering by cutting back all the stems to 20 cm from the ground. Again, prune just above an outward facing eye if possible to clear the center of the shrub. Scratch some compost at the foot of your hydrangea to help it start again.

Gardenia culture and maintenance

Gardenias: indoor plants

Gardenias are very common indoor evergreens. They are the ones that are offered, that are placed on a corner of the dining room table, and then die without us knowing why; maybe too much water, or not enough...

These are plants native to Asia that are kept indoors because of their relatively low hardiness. Moreover, we meet a lot of them in South Africa.

Hardy varieties of gardenias

However, in recent years, there are varieties of gardenias that are resistant to cold. Some can withstand temperatures as low as -12 or even -15°C. This opens new perspectives; no more plants that die inside. By installing them outside, in pots or in a bed, their culture becomes much simpler.

The outdoor gardenias are specific varieties. Among them, there are plants with small, medium or large development. The largest of the hardy gardenias is Gardenia jasminoides 'Summer Snow'. It is a very vigorous variety, whose large white flowers give off a delicious sweet scent.

Flowering of gardenias

Most of the time, gardenias bloom during the summer. It can extend from June to October, or even November, knowing that some varieties are more remontant than others (4 months of bloom for some; 1.5 months for others).

The culture of gardenias

Gardenias are heathland plants, so they do not like limestone soils. The ideal soil is an acidic and rather fresh soil. If you live in a very dry place, where the soil layer is shallow, it is necessary to enrich the soil with compost and install a mulch to keep it fresh.

In a calcareous soil, it is mandatory to add heather soil or Sequestrene (even in neutral soil) because gardenia can be subject to chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves).

In summary, the cultivation of gardenias requires :

• plenty of compost ;
• a mulch ;
• a fresh soil.

The right exposure 

• In the south of France: sun in the morning, shade in the afternoon;
• In the northern regions, in Brittany or Normandy: full sun.

The multiplication of gardenia

The gardenia can be sown (NB: it is not self-fertile). It can also be cutted in September on the semi-hardened stem, but the percentage of success is weak.

Flowering shrubs for winter

In winter, the garden seems to be dull. To bring a touch of cheerfulness, think of winter flowering shrubs, so you can still enjoy a beautiful show from November to March, despite the cold.

The flowering cherry tree

Installed as an isolated specimen to enjoy its splendor, Prunus subbhirtella 'Autumnalis Rosea' will be among the earliest to bloom. It blooms from November to March in successive waves of small, soft pink flowers at the rhythm of the warm weather. Its development being limited, it can be installed in small gardens.

Dogwoods

Cornus mas and Cornus officinalis are very easy to grow and offer the spectacle of their yellow flowers in February-March. They like most soils and are very hardy, neither frost nor snow can harm them.

Winter jasmine

Here is a shrub that likes the shade and blooms in the heart of winter. Winter Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) displays small bright yellow stars on its bare branches. It tolerates most soils and is equally well suited to be trained against a wall or left free to cover a slope.

Viburnum

Viburnum tinus, known by its vernacular name of 'Viorne', has a compact habit and is covered with slightly fragrant pinkish-white inflorescences throughout the winter. For variety, consider Viburnum x bodnantense and Viburnum fragans, which will bloom from November to March. The berries attract birds!

Sarcococca

It looks like a boxwood with pointed leaves from afar, but it is in fact a Sarcococca, a shrub of limited size (0.50 x 1.50 m) which starts to bloom at the end of January with original and fragrant white flowers.

The mahonia

An original shrub with prickly, tiered foliage, the mahonia is covered from February onwards with crowns of spikes of yellow flowers with fragrances reminiscent of lily of the valley. This shrub is ideal as a defensive hedge.

Witch Hazel

This shrub with a flared habit and elegant silhouette is adorned with fragrant lemon-yellow or slightly orange flowers from January. Another attraction of witch hazel is its foliage, which takes on flamboyant hues in spring.

Japanese quince

There are many varieties of Chaenomeles. If you choose them well, you will be able to stagger the blooms from December to March with a palette ranging from white to red, passing through pink and orange!

Edgeworthia

This little known shrub deserves its place in gardens where the climate remains mild because it is not very hardy (from -5° to -10°C once well installed). From February to April, it produces clusters of fragrant white and yellow flowers. Some cultivars of the edgeworthia like 'Red Dragon' put the red in the honor!