The edgeworthia, a shrub with an original branch that blooms in winter

The Edgeworthia: an original plant

The Edgeworthia (Edgeworthia chrysantha or Paper Bush) has a very particular, rather rare habit: each branch branches out into three branches. And when the plant is adult, it forms a perfect globe, very graphic.

During the month of January, the Edgeworthia opens its flowers which exhale a delicious perfume, like the other members of the Daphne family, to which it belongs.

The varieties of Edgeworthia

There are several varieties of Edgeworthia, including :

• Edgeworthia chrysantha 'Nanjing Gold', yellow blooming ;
• Edgeworthia chrysantha 'Akebono' or 'Red Dragon', with a red-orange bloom, a softer habit, and less graphic than 'Nanjing Gold' or the type.

Edgeworthia growing conditions

Soil

Edgeworthia are a bit demanding as to the nature of the soil that can accommodate them. They are plants that do not tolerate excess of water, nor big episodes of drought. They should therefore be planted in good garden soil and a good organic mulch (RCW, straw, lawn clippings) should be used to keep the plant cool at the foot of the plant and to encourage soil life.

Exposure

In regions with hot summers, choose a semi-shaded exposure (sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon).

In regions located further north (Brittany, Normandy, Hauts de France), it can be exposed to full sun.

Hardiness

The Edgeworthia resists to - 10°C.

Maintenance of Edgeworthia

It is very easy to maintain the Edgeworthia. Pruning is not necessary. It is a shrub that, once planted (with a contribution of compost) and well developed, will produce shoots from the base that should not be removed: this is the means of survival of the plant. After a few years, the main stem dies. The stems that appear at the base then take over.

Bonus: Edgeworthia have no known pests.

Multiplication of Edgeworthia

The propagation of Edgeworthia is quite complex. Professionals use an in vitro method under sterile conditions.

Tip: install the Edgeworthia near a place of passage to take advantage of the winter flowering.

The single-flowered Japanese cortea

Kerria japonica 'Golden Guinea': large, single flowers for the Japanese cornice

The pompom flowers of the Japanese headstock 'Pleniflora', a shrub of good size (3 meters high) and very suckering, are widely known in the gardens. But today, Patrick NICOLAS presents us a variety with simple and rather large flowers, which is called the single-flowered Japanese crested: Kerria japonica 'Golden Guinea'.

This variety is less tall and a little wider than Kerria japonica 'Pleniflora', since its adult size is between 1,50 m and 2 m. With a relatively light branching, less dense, allowing light to pass through, it has the advantage of allowing the planting of perennials around its foot.

Another important advantage is that Kerria japonica 'Golden Guinea' is a shrub that is certainly slightly suckering, but much less so than the Japanese cortea 'Pleniflora'.

The single flowered Japanese cortea: a shrub for the 4 seasons

Kerria japonica 'Golden Guinea' blooms in spring, with a late summer/early autumn repeat. Its foliage is deciduous, but its wood remains green, even in winter. Also, it remains very aesthetic regardless of the season.

Where to plant the Japanese cortea 'Golden Guinea'?

Soil: Kerria japonica 'Golden Guinea' is content with normal garden soil, which does not dry out too much during the summer.

Each year, bring compost to stimulate the growth of the branches and the blooming.

Exposure: preferably sunny but not hot, or, possibly, a very bright light shade.

Even if Kerria japonica 'Golden Guinea' can bear drought when it is temporary, avoid dry places in the garden.

Care of Kerria japonica 'Golden Guinea

A simple grooming pruning is enough for the Japanese cortea. It is limited to the removal, at the end of winter, of the small branches that dry out each year. New stems will grow from the base.

Kerria japonica 'Golden Guinea' is a cold-resistant shrub. However, if the tips of the stems turn brown due to very cold temperatures, it will be sufficient to prune them in the spring.

To know more 

There are also other species of Japanese cortea.

• Kerria japonica, the typical botanical species, with smaller single flowers;
• Kerria japonica 'Pleniflora', with pompon flowers;
• Kerria japonica 'Alba', with cream-colored flowers.

Pruning of shrubs

Some shrubs need pruning but why, when and how to prune?

Why prune ?

Pruning allows you to put your shrubs back in shape and to limit the space occupied by them. In small gardens, it is sometimes necessary to be able to control the expansion of its plantations.

Pruning increases the branching of shrubs by causing new branches to appear under the cut and often improves flowering.

When should we prune?

Shrubs should be pruned at the end of winter, in February or March after heavy frosts, except for winter or spring flowering shrubs for which we will wait until the end of flowering. It would be a shame not to take advantage of them, especially since they have been chosen for their flowers.

For example, for spring or winter flowering shrubs, we can mention the laurel, the forsythia, the flowering currant, the Japanese quince, the Japanese cortea, the spring spirea...

Other shrubs do not need pruning or even would not tolerate it like the rhododendron, the azalea, the magnolia, the camellia or the skimmia. You can however remove the faded flowers.

How to prune?

For maintenance pruning, we distinguish evergreen shrubs from deciduous shrubs.

For deciduous shrubs such as hydrangea, lilac or seringat :

• Remove dead or diseased branches and frost-burned branches.
• Cut back unsightly branches
• Cut off wilted flowers to prevent unnecessary fruit production
• Cut the oldest branches at 5 cm from the ground to aerate your shrub and allow light to penetrate inside
• Do a rejuvenation pruning

You can do a rejuvenation pruning every 3 or 4 years by cutting them back severely.

For evergreen shrubs such as laurel, cedar or yew:

• Remove dead or diseased branches and frost-burned branches.
• Cut back unsightly branches
• Prune for shape

Pruning summer flowering shrubs

Summer flowering shrubs illuminate the garden with their bright colors throughout the summer and sometimes until the first frost. To take full advantage of their beauty, a few pruning steps must be taken.

The right time to prune

The majority of summer flowering shrubs have the particularity of flowering on the year's branches. Pruning at the end of winter will be beneficial because it encourages branching and the emission of new shoots that will then flower abundantly in summer. To make this possible, pruning should not be too late as it would compromise or delay flowering. The best time to prune these shrubs is in February or March, outside of the frost period, before vegetation starts to grow again on deciduous species.

How to prune summer flowering shrubs?

Protect yourself with gloves and use pruning shears and a lopper if the shrubs have branches with a larger diameter.

Training pruning

On young and newly planted shrubs, a so-called "training" pruning may be necessary. It stimulates the growth of the plant while giving it a harmonious shape. It consists in reducing the stems by half by pruning above an outward facing eye or to put in place the carpenter branches. Indeed, keeping a low framework on certain shrubs will allow to make a maintenance pruning much lighter in order to keep the volume of the plant. A common trunk will then carry 5 to 6 carpenters which will each divide into 2 or 3 branches. Young baguenaudier, deciduous ceanothus, Hydrangea paniculata or arborescens, Spanish broom or summer tamarisk are concerned by this pruning.

Maintenance pruning

This is the most frequent pruning which allows to stimulate the departure of new flower-bearing shoots. It consists of removing all dead, diseased or damaged branches at the base of the shrub and also clearing the center of the shrub in order to bring in a maximum of light. The shrub is then aerated, the light rays penetrate in its center and a good air circulation is maintained. Pests and diseases will be less frequent on a pruned shrub.

To finish your maintenance pruning, cut the ends of the branches for a few centimeters always above a bud turned towards the outside, in order to give an aesthetic shape to the shrub and to stimulate the growth of new shoots which will bloom as soon as the summer. At the same time, cut off the branches that flowered the previous year. This pruning can be done on most summer flowering shrubs such as Buddleia, ceanothea, hibiscus, perovskia, summer spirea, caryopteris, lavatera or altheas.

Rejuvenation pruning

This is done on aging shrubs that bloom less and less or on very weak subjects that are still growing despite optimal care.

This pruning consists in cutting the stems at 20 or 30 cm from the ground. Caryopteris, rustic fuschia, Leycesteria, Lespedeza, shrub sage, but also Perovskia can be pruned this way.

Pruning hydrangea flowers

The florist's hydrangea produces towering white, blue, purple or pink pompons depending on the variety and soil type. The timing of flower pruning has often been a subject of discussion among gardeners. Some choose to prune them after flowering, others insist on keeping them until the following spring. Who is right?

Pruning time, the big question...

The Hydrangea genus is divided into several species that can be found in the garden, including the famous Hydrangea macrophylla, better known as the florists' hydrangea. Cultivated in pots on a terrace or a balcony, it is also planted in the garden in a half-shaded place where it brings its note of romanticism thanks to its big pompons from July to October. The hydrangea appreciates soils with a rather acidic tendency, its flowers can moreover change color passing strangely from bright blue to pink in too calcareous soil.

The pruning of hydrangea flowers is generally done in spring after the last big cold in regions with a harsh climate, that is to say in March-April before the vegetation wakes up. Be careful, however, because this hydrangea blooms on the previous year's stems. If the pruning is too drastic, you risk not taking advantage of its beautiful summer bloom! It is therefore not advisable to prune all the stems, but rather to opt for a selection that will ensure the renewal of the shoots without sacrificing the flowers. In regions where snow and frost are not uncommon, faded flowers protect buds and young shoots from the cold. Another advantage: they cover themselves with frost, bringing a fairy note to the garden!

In the mildest regions, pruning can be done just at the end of the flowering period, so that the flowering branches have more time to form.

How to prune hydrangea flowers?

1. In regions with mild winters, proceed at the end of the blooming period by pruning the end of the flowering stems at a bevel just above a pair of buds. You can prune up to 25 cm of stem to give a harmonious ball shape to your shrub. If the subject is very old and less floriferous from year to year, cut the oldest branches at their base just above an eye if possible directed towards the outside.
2. In regions with harsh winters, cut off spent flowers by pruning just above the first bud below the flower when there is no risk of frost in spring. Don't prune too low or your hydrangea may not bloom that year!

In both cases, take the opportunity to remove dead or damaged branches and weak stems that are entangled in the center of the shrub in order to aerate it. This operation limits the installation of parasites which particularly appreciate the plant clutter.

Don't forget to sprinkle a mixture of compost and ground horn powder at the foot of your hydrangea after pruning, to help restart the vegetation.

Pruning small shrubs

Small shrubs generally require little pruning, but it is still useful to keep the plant in a harmonious shape and to prevent it from becoming bald. The removal of wilted flowers, dead or diseased branches will also be part of the program, your shrubs will be better off!

The different pruning methods used on small shrubs

The removal of dead wood or diseased branches can be done all year round, it can be completed by the removal of wilted flowers just after flowering. It consists of systematically cutting these parts down to the level of a healthy and full of life branch. Always cut above an eye or an outward facing shoot. This pruning can be done on the majority of shrubs and concerns in particular the lavenders which can be pruned in the shape of balls.

The removal of the old wood allows to aerate the plant while privileging the more recent branches which will thus receive an influx of sap and light and will be able to develop better. It is practiced at the beginning of spring towards the end of March and consists in cutting down between 3 and 5 cm from the ground the 3 years old branches which already carry lateral and sub-lateral branches. This operation concerns Berberis, cotoneaster, brooms, hydrangeas, shrubby veronicas and symphorines.

The limitation of the development is necessary on certain plants, in particular the climbing shrubs or with untidy port, which need to be contained not to invade all and to preserve a compact and pleasant port. These plants should be pruned just after flowering so as not to compromise the next year's flowering. It will be necessary to reduce the branches to the desired height, then remove the oldest stems to keep only the young clumps starting from the ground or from quite low on the old stems. This pruning is done on clematis, climbing hydrangeas, honeysuckles and Turkestan knotweed.

Cutting back is a drastic method that will only be practiced after several years on evergreen shrubs, when they start to recede from the base. This pruning will be done in spring on late flowering shrubs and in autumn on spring flowering shrubs. It consists in cutting all the aerial parts of the plant at about 15 cm from its base to keep only some main branches. A compost-based mulching will then be necessary as well as a contribution of fertilizer in order to ensure the recovery. The following are concerned: St. John's wort, dogwood which will provide beautiful colored stems, Leycesteria, Japanese spirea and santolin.

Small shrubs that bloom on the previous year's wood, such as Buddleia, deutzia, mahonia or weigelia will be pruned immediately after flowering. Pruning will help to maintain a harmonious shape and to obtain larger flowers but in lesser numbers. Stems that have flowered should be cut back just above an eye or new growth, taking care to keep a portion of the current year's branch.

Shrubs that bloom on the current year's stems, such as Buddleia davidii, caryopsis or fuchsia, can be pruned shorter as soon as new leaves appear. Prune all the previous year's stems at 3 eyes from their junction with the old wood that should always be kept.