Cutting the Pink Laurel

Emblem of the Mediterranean gardens that it adorns with its abundant and fragrant flowering during long months, the pink Laurel (Nerium oleander) is a plant easy to multiply by cuttings. A wide range of colors is available: from pure white to crimson red, through all shades of pink or the rarer and more fragile pale yellow. From cultivars with very double flowers, with a sweet almond scent, to species with yellow variegated foliage, you will be spoilt for choice!

How and when to proceed?

In spring or early summer, take a terminal branch of about 20 centimeters long from a healthy plant, free of parasites or diseases, and cut it at an angle. Then remove all the leaves from the stem, leaving only the two terminal leaves. The flowers should also be removed.

This operation called cutting can be done on a herbaceous stem or a semi-arched stem, later in the season. In the Mediterranean area, you can take advantage of the post-flowering pruning to recover the stems to be cut.

Methods of taking cuttings from the rose laurel

Two very simple methods are available to you:

Cutting in the ground is an easy method; plant the stem in a pot deep enough to bury a good half of it.

The substrate should be light, composed of equal parts of river sand and good potting soil. Place your cuttings in a warm, clear place sheltered from drying winds.

Avoid full sun until the growth is effective and never let the mixture dry too much. If you take the cutting at the end of autumn, cover it with a transparent plastic bag (like a freezer bag) that you will keep closed with a rubber band around the pot. This will keep the plant warm and moist.

You can then introduce the plant in the garden as soon as the weather is fine, when any risk of frost is eliminated. Water copiously the first three years and do not hesitate to prune drastically at the end of autumn to induce the formation of new stems as of the following spring.

Cutting in water is the easiest and most fun to do.

Simply place several stems in a bottle cut three-quarters of the way through and wait for roots to form. You will find that competition can be beneficial and that it often takes longer for a single cutting to root than several stems together. To keep the water odor-free, place a small piece of charcoal at the bottom of the bottle to prevent rotting. Remember to add water if evaporation is too strong and place your bottle in a shady area. Wait a fortnight: the roots should appear.

Once the roots are well developed (about two months) you can install the plants in individual pots. Act with care because the roots produced in water are fragile and breakable. Install them in a light substrate composed of 2/3 of good potting soil and 1/3 of river sand. Keep the plants frost-free during the winter, you will install them in the ground only in May.

The autumn camellia, growing tips

It is quite possible to see camellias in bloom during the month of November.

But not just any camellia. They are Camellia sasanqua, more commonly known as autumn camellias. Some varieties are double flowered. Among the beautiful single-flowered varieties are :

• Camellia sasanqua 'Narumigata': this is an autumn camellia with single white flowers.
• Camellia sasanqua 'Papaver' (the flower looks like a poppy): it is an autumn camellia with light pink single flowers.

Bonus: Autumn camellias grow rather fast, up to 3 to 4 meters high.

Interests of the autumn camellias

On the one hand, the bloom of the Camellia sasanqua is rather long (one and a half to two months) at a time when few plants are in bloom in the garden.

On the other hand, the flowers of Camellia sasanqua are pleasantly scented.

Growing requirements for fall camellias

Autumn camellias grow on draining and acid soils (pH< 7).

On neutral to calcareous soils, their cultivation is more complicated or even impossible for calcareous soils.

Autumn camellias are among the few camellias that can be planted in the sun. It is also important to know that when temperatures become too cold, below -10°C, the trees suffer and produce a poor bloom the following year. The climates of Brittany, Normandy and the Médoc are therefore suitable for their cultivation.

Planting autumn camellias

Delicate, the autumn camellias are a bit delicate, but on the other hand their planting is within the reach of any beginner gardener. For a root ball of 80 cm in diameter, dig a hole of 1.20 meters in diameter and position the subject in the center.

As the Autumn Camellia is an evergreen and autumn flowering tree, the ideal planting period is in spring.

Care of the fall camellia

Autumn camellias require very little maintenance.

However, you should watch out for the development of smoke; it is unsightly but not very dangerous for the plant and can be treated very easily.

Japanese dwarf cherry tree, growing tips

An ornamental cherry tree

The Japanese dwarf cherry tree (Prunus incisa) is a flowering cherry tree that blooms at the very beginning of spring, from the end of March, beginning of April. If the weather is favorable, without too much rain, the bloom can last for about 3 weeks to 1 month. It does not produce fruit; it is only an ornamental variety.

The Japanese dwarf cherry is a shrub with a twisted wood that grows quite slowly. Its adult size reaches 2 to 2.5 meters high. It is perfect for small gardens or to be grown in a container on a terrace.

The needs of the dwarf Japanese cherry tree

The dwarf Japanese cherry does not like wet soil. It should therefore be planted in a draining soil (sandy or loamy soil). If necessary, add sand at planting time to improve drainage.

The recommended exposure is sun or half-shade, but avoid shade so that it can flower properly.

The cultivation of the Japanese dwarf cherry tree does not require any particular fertilizer. The installation of a mulch composed of wood chips will be enough to maintain the natural humus of the soil, when it will decompose.

Hardiness of the dwarf Japanese cherry

The dwarf Japanese cherry has a very good resistance to cold. It is a hardy deciduous tree, like most deciduous trees. Only the trees planted in containers or pots require winter protection. It consists in protecting the pot, and thus the stump, from freezing.

Pruning the Japanese dwarf cherry tree

As with many other plants, Dauguet Nurseries strongly advises against pruning the Japanese dwarf cherry tree, except, possibly, to make a training pruning when branches develop in a too anarchic way. But this is the only pruning necessary: it should be left to grow on its own. In any case, as it is a slow growing shrub, the Japanese dwarf cherry tree will never be invasive.

One exception: if you want to create a vine-like shrub, you can prune the Japanese cherry slightly at the base. This shape suits its twisted branches well.

The Asian dogwood

The Asian dogwood rather than the American dogwood

There is a difference between American dogwoods and Asian dogwoods. American dogwoods have an extraordinary bloom in April. Unfortunately, here, they have caught a disease called anthracnose which is devastating to the foliage. The Domaine des Rochettes has therefore decided to stop selling them, in favor of Asian dogwoods.

Cornus kousa var. chinensis is a dogwood on which many other dogwoods are grafted. It has a beautiful white bloom, even pink for some cultivars. It also has the advantage of not being sensitive to anthracnose.

Portrait of the Asian dogwood

The Asian dogwood is a small shrub that grows up to 3 or 4 meters high, although we find subjects of 5 to 6 meters in English botanical parks.

It is a deciduous tree which starts to grow in April, and which blooms for a month and a half, from May to mid-June. It has quite extraordinary autumnal colors; as soon as a sunbeam illuminates its foliage, we obtain pink to red tones, with a little yellow or green hues.

Today, it can be found almost everywhere in France, in all nurseries, or specialized garden centers, whereas 10 years ago, it was more difficult to get one.

The culture of the Asian dogwood

The Asian dogwood is a tree that likes cool soils and sunny exposures, possibly slightly shaded.

The most important thing is not to install it on a calcareous ground. If you plant a young tree, the soil should be acidic. But if you plant it when it is already adult, a neutral soil will be appropriate.

The Asian dogwood also needs space and light so that it can grow in all directions and become a beautiful spreading tree.

A location sheltered from cool winds is desirable. It should be remembered that the dogwood is the classic tree of English gardens, which are relatively protected gardens, and where temperatures do not fall too low (with almost no frost).

The pruning of the Asian dogwood

From a maintenance point of view, the dogwood is a tree of choice, as it requires no maintenance. You can always remove a branch that does not suit you, but overall, it is a fairly homogeneous tree whose branches grow a little in all directions, giving it its very pretty silhouette.

Planting the Asian dogwood

Planting a young dogwood does not pose any particular problem. On the other hand, if you buy it of adult size (3 m high for 3 m wide), not only you will not be able to plant it alone, but moreover it will be necessary to place its root ball of 1 meter in diameter for 50 cm in height in a hole of 1,40 m in diameter.

Its root system remains confined in its root ball: it does not spread and, at the time of the plantation, the cut of the roots remains little important.

The planting of the Asian dogwood is ideally done in the fall, but the planting period can run until March 15. However, the longer the winter rest, the better the tree will do when it is time to recover.

The rustic fuchsia

Fuchsia: a food plant

When we talk about food plants (interesting for all the inhabitants of the garden, like insects and birds), we often forget to talk about fuchsia. However, it is a plant that will interest many insects, on the one hand in summer, but also in late season. Indeed, the flowering of fuchsia will last until the first frosts, which can take us sometimes until late November or early December.

Hardy fuchsias

Hardy fuchsias are simple to grow. It is not necessary to bring them in during the winter, even if it is very cold (however, it is preferable to install a protection the first few winters). The mother plants of the nursery have already faced very low temperatures (-21°C), without protection.

Fuchsias and the sun

The sunnier the season, the longer and more important the flowering. Contrary to what has been assumed for a long time, the fuchsia is more of a semi-shade plant than a shade plant, because, of course, it needs coolness, but it also needs sun for its flowering.

Small and large hardy fuchsias

Hardy fuchsias offer a wide variety of plants, with small fuchsias that are no more than 60 cm tall and others that can reach 2.50 m tall.

In fact, the size of the fuchsia depends on the previous winter: the harsher the winter, the more necessary it is to cut back the branches that have taken the cold, while following a mild winter, the cuts are very light.

Two varieties of hardy fuchsias in the spotlight

• The fuchsia "Ville de Rocquencour" (French obtention, as its name suggests): a very decorative fuchsia, 70 cm high, is very well adapted to small gardens, to the front of flowerbeds, or to pots on balconies and terraces. Its flowering is long and beautiful, with its petals curved upwards and its long hanging stigmas.
• Magellanic fuchsia (Fuchsia riccartonii): the other name of this fuchsia is oat grain, referring to its small, long, hanging flower resembling an ear of oats. In some years, when the winter has been mild, this fuchsia can reach 1,50 m to 2 m. It is a fuchsia that can be installed in a shrubbery or as an isolated plant.

The winged charcoal, growing tips

Charcoal trees are numerous in Europe, but also in the world: they can be found on all continents. They are often found under the name "Bishop's cap".

A winged charcoal

The charcoal presented by Nicolas Hennebelle is called winged charcoal and its scientific name is Euonymus alatus. The explanation of its name comes simply from the physiognomy of its branches. Indeed, if you observe it a little more closely you will notice that its branches have small corky wings which are very decorative, especially in winter, when the foliage has fallen (the winged fusain is a deciduous shrub), revealing the whole structure of the tree.

The winged charcoal: the king of autumn

In autumn, the winged charcoal takes on its full importance: its green foliage gradually turns pink and red, illuminating the entire garden.

However, to obtain these beautiful fall colors, the winged charcoal needs light. It must therefore be planted in full sun, or even under a light shade.

In a country hedge or a shrubbery, the winged fusain blends very well with other shrubs with colored foliage, such as the blood dogwood whose yellow foliage offers a beautiful contrast with the reddish pink leaves of Euonymus alatus.

The winged fusain: an easy-to-grow shrub

The winged fusain is an easy tree to live with. It adapts to many situations and supports all types of soil. It even grows on limestone soils. The only fear that it can have concerns wet soils: stagnant water is the enemy of its small roots.

The winged fusain can be pruned; but knowing that it is a shrub of rather slow growth and that its size remains modest (its adult dimensions are 2 meters high and 2 meters wide), it is hardly necessary, nor even advised.

The winged charcoal: a shrub for small gardens

Because of its small size, Euonymus alatus is a perfect shrub for small gardens.

There is another fusain that looks very similar to it but with a more compact habit: Euonymus compactus. The only difference with Euonymus alatus is that the wings of Euonymus compactus are a little less developed.