Perennial and hardy hibiscus

The vast genus Hibiscus is divided into nearly 200 species, some of which are perennial and hardy. These hibiscus can be planted in the garden and bloom even more abundantly each year. Discover them...

The hardy shrubby hibiscus

Shrubby hibiscus grow on woody stems that remain in place from one year to the next. Very hardy (-15 °C), tolerant of all kinds of soil, even limestone, they are wonderful in mixed hedges, at the bottom of a bed, or as an isolated subject on a lawn.

Hibiscus syriacus, also known as 'Tree Mallow' or 'Althea' is an upright shrub with dark green deciduous leaves. This species is native to an area stretching from India to China, where it can grow to nearly 3 meters in height and 2 meters in spread. The dark pink flowers with purple center in corollas of 8 cm in diameter follow one another without interruption from July to the first frost. Innumerable varieties have been created, with double flowers as in 'Jeanne d'Arc' of white color or 'Leopoldii' pink spotted with red. The most classic single flowered varieties are 'Blue bird' with blue/purple flowers and a red center, or 'Hamabo' with large pale pink flowers spotted with red.

Hibiscus sinosyriacus is a very hardy species that grows quite fast and produces flowers early. Very easy to grow, it requires almost no maintenance.

The pink flowers follow one another from the end of April to September on this shrub which can reach 3 m height.

Hibiscus paramutabilis is a shrub native to China that can be considered in most regions where frost does not last too long; it is hardy to -10 °C.

This species can reach 4 m in all directions if planted in rich and well-drained soil. This hibiscus has light green palmate and pubescent leaves and is covered with white flowers with a red center 12 cm in diameter from July to October.

Hardy herbaceous hibiscus

Some species and varieties of hibiscus have a woody stem, but their aerial parts are herbaceous and disappear in winter, only to grow back when temperatures are very mild. With spectacular flowers, these hibiscus need sun and a cool, very fertile soil. Mulch the plants in winter to protect them.

Hibiscus coccineus is an herbaceous perennial native to the swampy areas of the southeastern United States. Growing up to 2 m tall, this hibiscus has hemp-like leaves and bright red flowers 20 cm in diameter that bloom from July to September. It can withstand temperatures as low as -12 °C.

Hibiscus moscheutos otherwise named 'Hibiscus of the marshes' is a perennial plant appreciating the watery grounds. It is thus ideal in edge of basin. The flowering in flattened cups of 25 cm of diameter is always spectacular, that it is red, white or pink. The plant can reach 1,5 m in all directions, in one season. As of the first frosts, the aerial parts disappear to reappear only late in the following spring.

Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas are a large family of which the most famous are the ones with big pompons. They come in many species and varieties. Whether they are bushy, climbing or shrubby, hydrangeas will continue to amaze us!

A vast family

Some people make the distinction between "hydrangeas" and "hydrangeas", but they are one and the same perennial plant belonging to the Hydrangea genus. The term "Hydrangea" is simply the common name for this well-known plant. There are many species in the Hydrangea genus, each with its own particular characteristics.

Hydrangea macrophylla

This is the most common plant of the genus, the one we call "hydrangea" in common language. This shrubby species with large leaves can reach up to 2 meters in height and spread when the conditions are favorable, that is to say in fresh, humus and acid soil. It is recognizable by its big balls of blue, pink or white flowers carried by rigid but hollow stems. This species blooms on the branches of the previous year, a late pruning or a frost can then compromise the bloom of the year.

Hydrangea petiolaris

This climbing species of strong development is ideal to cover a support along a wall. It bears beautiful white inflorescences in spreading domes. This hydrangea can reach 15 meters in height, its leaves take on a beautiful golden color in the fall; it is an outstanding ornamental subject.

Hydrangea quercifolia

As its name suggests, this hydrangea is remarkable for its large oak-like leaves that take on flamboyant hues in the fall. It is ideal in beds or pots but should be avoided in humid soil as it would then be too sensitive to root rot.

Hydrangea paniculata

Easy to grow and very hardy, this very vigorous species is gaining more and more followers charmed by its conical inflorescences of cream color turning to pale pink. This hydrangea supports very well a sunny exposure.

Hydrangea involucrata

Very compact (1 m high) the Hydrangea involucrata is well suited to the center of a bed or in pots. It likes a fresh and humid soil where it will display from July its rounded corymbs with small blue flowers surrounded by bigger single to double, white, pale blue or pink flowers which give it its nickname of "Hydrangea with peony flower".

Hydrangea arborescens

This arborescent Hydrangea is a vigorous species, easy to cultivate because it tolerates most soils and exposures. It is a large suckering shrub producing large inflorescences in the form of very spectacular white balls. This hydrangea can easily reach 3 meters in height.

Lilacs, growing tips

Unknown species of lilac

The lilacs that we usually see in gardens are a variation of a single species, Syringa Vulgaris; only the flower changes: single, double, pink, white... The leaves and the port of the shrub are always the same.

However, there are 22 species such as, for example, the parsley-leaved lilac, the Afghan lilac, the laciniate lilac, meyeri palibin, or the lilac oblata which is the first to flower. To these 22 species, we must add the many varieties.

As for Syringa Vulgaris, the common lilac, there are hundreds of varieties. They are preferred by gardeners, which is quite surprising considering that the other species have the same characteristics.

Lilacs of any kind are plants that grow on most soils, are very hardy, have a fragrant bloom and are very flowering. The sizes can vary: some varieties are of medium size (2 meters high), while others do not exceed 1 meter in height.

The flowering of lilacs

All lilacs bloom in spring but some are earlier than others. If you make a good arrangement in your garden, you can get 3 months of lilac bloom.

The earliest is Syringa oblata, which blooms in late March and has single white flowers. It grows up to 2 or 3 meters high. Later, the Preston Lilacs, Canadian hybrids, bloom at the end of May. As for Syringa reticulata, the tallest of the lilacs (6 meters high), it blooms at the beginning of June.

Conditions for growing lilacs

Lilacs, whatever they are, are very undemanding plants as to the nature of the soil, which resist to very cold temperatures, between -30 and -40°C (we must remember that they are almost all native to the Himalayan hillsides).

Lilacs are full sun plants. Shade is detrimental to flowering. On the other hand, because of their origins, they appreciate a certain coolness of the soil. In the South, watering may be necessary during the summer. Leaves that hang down will be the signal of a lack of water.

Pruning lilacs

Some say that lilacs are pruned in clumps, implying that lilacs do not need pruning. However, it does tolerate pruning very well, provided that it is done just after flowering, so as not to remove the flower and to obtain a bloom the following year. A pruning done in winter suppresses the bloom the following spring.

If you have old lilacs, a rejuvenation pruning can be done, but in this case, the next bloom will be compromised. To lessen the trauma, it is advisable to prune in two times: cut large branches very short, but only every other one. The following year you will finish the pruning.

Cultivation of lilacs in pots

The culture in pot is possible on the condition that you bring him food and water regularly.

Proteas, growing tips

The Proteaceae family

Proteas are from the proteaceae family, one of the oldest families in the world.

The plants of this family are native to Australia and South Africa. In South Africa, you will find mostly proteas, leucospermums and leucadendrons, while in Australia, you will find more plants belonging to the genera banksias, telopeas and many grevilleas.

The proteas of South Africa bloom in spring and fall, while the protaceae of Australia can bloom in winter, spring and fall.

None of them bloom in summer; this is their vegetative rest period. It corresponds to the winter season in their country of origin.

They all have an evergreen foliage.

Tips for growing proteas

Most of the proteas from South Africa require full sun, a poor, acid and drained soil. Their hardiness is within a temperature range of - 4°C to - 10°C.

The proteaceae of Australia are a little more rustic (- 10°C / -12°C). Some of them, such as the telopeas, appreciate more a mid-shade or even a shade exposure.

Pruning advice for proteas

South African proteas must be pruned.

Indeed, it is the new branches which carry the flowers. To force the plant to branch out and produce new branches, it is necessary to prune the old ones.

As for the Australian proteas, it is rarely necessary to prune them, because the branching occurs naturally from the faded flower buds.

Who can host proteas?

Brittany offers ideal growing conditions for proteas; it is neither very cold nor very hot. If you live on the French Riviera, you can also try growing them, although your plants will suffer from the summer heat.

Diseases of proteas

Proteas are little attacked by pests but on the other hand, they are very sensitive to a pathogenic fungus: the phytophthora.  To prevent this contamination, it is usual to spray, when the weather is hot (a condition that favors the development of the fungus) a preventive systemic fungicide, Aliette (non organic), widely used for the protection of conifers.

To discover

• Telopea speciosissima, commonly called Waratah, emblem of Australia
• Protea cynaroides 'Little princess', which forms a pretty small shrub, 1 m high and 80 cm wide.

Planting and maintenance of Indian lilac

The Indian Lilac is a beautiful shrub that is covered with clusters of flowers all summer long. Its foliage turns flamboyant in autumn and it remains decorative even in winter thanks to its cinnamon-colored bark that peels off.

When to plant the Indian Lilac?

The Indian lilac (Lagestroemia) should be planted preferably in autumn, or in spring in the coldest regions. Choose a hardy variety, some of them can withstand temperatures of -10° C for a short period of time and once well established.

How to plant the Indian Lilac?

• Choose a sunny spot sheltered from the prevailing winds. The Indian lilac appreciates a rich and humus soil and a well drained soil.
• Soak the root ball in a large basin of water at room temperature to hydrate it before planting.
• Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball in all directions.
• If the excavated soil is poor, replace half its volume with good commercial potting soil and compost.
• Scratch the bottom of the hole and mix a bit of crushed horn into the soil which will help the plant to restart.
• Form a small mound at the bottom of the hole with the prepared soil.
• Place the roots of the shrub on this mound, adjusting the height so that the collar is flush with the soil.
• Fill in and pack down.
• Water abundantly and add some soil if necessary.

Pot culture: plant the Lagerstroemia in a large container (minimum 60 cm of sides and depth) with a hole at the bottom. Provide a layer of clay balls equal to 20% of the volume of the pot to ensure good drainage. Plant your Indian lilac in a mixture of good potting soil and compost with a shovelful of crushed horn powder. Water.

Maintenance of the Indian Lilac

For the first few years after planting, water copiously about twice a week in summer. Scrub manure at the foot of the tree in October. Apply a granular organic fertilizer in April and again in July to support the abundant flowering.

Prune the Indian Lilac in March by cutting back the previous year's shoots by half to induce the appearance of young flowering shoots. Take advantage of this to remove the dead wood and remove some branches that cross in the center of the shrub.

Mulch the base and install a winter cover in the coldest regions to protect the Indian lilac from freezing in winter.

Be careful: pay particular attention to the subjects planted in pots, as the mixture dries out very quickly. In summer, watering should be sustained. A contribution of liquid fertilizer for flowering shrubs every 15 days from May to August will be welcome.

Planting, pruning and maintenance of lilacs

With its unforgettable springtime fragrance and clusters of delicately colored flowers, the lilac is one of the most essential shrubs in the garden. From planting to maintenance, focus on this plant that will accompany you with its sweet fragrance for many years.

When to plant lilac?

The lilac is an easy to grow shrub that can be planted over a long period from September to May, avoiding of course periods of heavy frost.

How to plant lilac?

The lilac is a versatile shrub that can be planted as an isolated specimen or in a hedge or bed. If you plant it in groups, remember to space each foot 1.5 m apart. The lilac appreciates rich, moist soil and tolerates limestone well. Choose a sunny spot to install your lilac.

• Soak the root ball in a basin of water at room temperature to hydrate it before planting.
• Meanwhile, spade the soil to aerate it and remove stones and weeds.
• Incorporate decomposed manure and compost into the soil.
• Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball in all directions.
• Scratch the bottom of the hole and add a handful of ground horn.
• Pour a little prepared soil into the bottom of the hole and add good planting soil, calculating the height so that the neck of the plant is flush with the ground.
• Place your lilac plant in the center of the hole and fill it in by packing the soil around the foot.
• Water abundantly.

How to maintain the lilac?

Water your lilac regularly during the summer and the months following planting to ensure a good recovery. In autumn, amend the soil at the foot of the lilac with composted manure to nourish it and prepare for abundant spring flowering.

Very resistant if cultivated in an optimal way, the lilac will not be attacked by any parasite, it is very hardy but late frosts can sometimes damage the young shoots.

Remember to remove the faded flowers to avoid the formation of seeds which exhausts the plant.

The lilac does not need any particular pruning operation, however if you want to prune it, proceed just after flowering by removing the dead wood and the spindly or crossing branches. If you prune too late, your lilac will not flower the following year. Older plants can be rejuvenated by pruning drastically to about 20 cm from the ground. Do this in the fall if it is really necessary, the lilac will form a clump capable of flowering two years later.