Controlling the development of bamboo

Most varieties of bamboo tend to expand because of their trailing rhizomes. If they are happy in your garden, there is a real risk of them becoming overgrown. Let's see how to control them.

The roots of bamboo

Most bamboos, with the exception of certain Fargesias, have rhizomatous and tracing roots, i.e. underground organs capable of containing a reserve of nutrients. These organs move horizontally and serve as a natural multiplication of the plant which then forms vast clumps. If left unchecked, the expansion can be spectacular, especially if your garden conditions are conducive to their development.

Different methods of controlling bamboo

The spread of bamboo is not inevitable! There are many solutions to limit its progression:

The trench

Delimit the area dedicated to your bamboo by digging a trench about 40 cm deep and 10 cm wide around its periphery. You will then just have to watch for the appearance of new shoots and to give a clear spade stroke in the trench to eliminate them. If you prefer, you can also proceed with the help of a lopper which will quickly cut the unwanted rhizomes.

The anti-rhizome barrier

The anti-rhizome barrier made of thick polypropylene, almost rigid, allows to stop the progression of bamboos in a very efficient way, but for that, it must be positioned in the rules of Art! Place it at an angle of 15° to the bamboo clump. It must be installed at the plantation at a distance of 50 cm to 1 m. The depth of the trench where it will be placed should be slightly less than the height of the anti-rhizome barrier so that it protrudes a few centimeters from the ground to prevent the roots from jumping over it.

To hide it, you can install large round pebbles that will emphasize the 'zen' side of the bamboos or cover it with a slate mulch or colored RCW.

The Masonry

The most courageous will build physical barriers with cinder blocks or bricks. Be careful to cement the whole thing so that there are no gaps where rhizomes can infiltrate. Here again, leave 2 cm above your low wall so that the roots do not jump over it happily.

The mower

Sometimes the lawn is next to a bamboo planting that stops at the edge of the lawn. Some people even plant a clump of ornamental bamboo such as the famous Phyllostachys nigra in the middle of it. If you regularly mow the lawn, the aerial shoots will be removed as they appear.

How to plant your Christmas tree in the garden?

Planting your Christmas tree in the garden either to reuse it the following Christmas or to let it grow is planned as soon as you buy it, because keeping it alive during the holidays requires some care.

1. Choosing the right tree

• The Christmas tree that will be replanted in the garden is necessarily a potted tree, which has its roots. There is no chance that a cut tree will grow back in the garden.
• it must be fresh: no sagging branches, no needles that are already falling off en masse, no tree that has been inside for a week or more (in a supermarket, for example).
• if you want to let it grow in your garden, buy a small tree, which gives better results in the long run.
• And finally, make an informed choice of the species best suited to you.

Different choices of Christmas tree :

• Nordmann or Caucasian Fir Abies nordmanniana, beautiful conical shape, dark green, non-scented, and does not lose too many needles. Its growth is slow and it is more expensive. It makes an excellent garden tree. Acid to slightly alkaline soil, which stays cool. Fairly easy to grow.
• Nobilis or noble fir Abies Nobilis (syn Abies procera), very beautiful, it has the qualities of Nordmann, but with the added scent. It is remarkable, but a little more demanding for its culture in the garden. Acidic soil and always fresh to humid.
• The Grandis or Vancouver fir, Abies Grandis, non pungent and with a smell of lemongrass, it is beautiful and non pungent. It is getting too big to leave it in a garden for long. Instead, it is replanted to be used again at Christmas. Acidic, humid and draining soil.
• Omorika or Serbian spruce, Picea omorika, dark green with a silvery underside, is a bit fragile, its branches are brittle, but it is tolerant of the soil and its transplanting in the garden is quite easy.
• the Epicea, Picea abies, less expensive and fragrant, prickly; it loses its needles easily with the heat. Not very ornamental from a landscape point of view, if it is replanted, it is rather with the aim of taking it back the following Christmas. Likes sandy soils with an acidic tendency. Easy to grow and fast growing.
• The Pungens, Picea pungens or Colorado fir is the blue Christmas tree. Its needles are prickly and do not drop too much. It resists well indoors and is easily replanted in the garden. It likes full sun, moist soil and is somewhat more resistant to light drought.

2. Keeping your tree alive during the holidays

To keep it alive, you should:

• do not buy it too early before Christmas, so that it stays in the house as little as possible: 1 or 2 weeks maximum.
• install it far from the heating, and not to overheat the house, install it where it benefits from more freshness (there is often a ventilation near the windows).
• put a saucer under the pot and water it every 2 days, or more: the soil of the pot must always remain wet, it is very important.
• do not put an electric garland, which allows to mist the needles once a day, so that they do not dry out too much.

3. Adaptation to the outdoor climate

• As soon as possible, the Christmas tree is put out in a cool place. But if it goes from 20°C to 2°C too quickly, it can have a thermal shock, even more so if it freezes outside; 1 or 2 days in an unheated room at an intermediate temperature is desirable (garage).
• once outside, it can wait in its pot for a week or two, as long as you keep watering it.

4 . Planting the Christmas tree

Choose its location according to its needs, or according to whether you want to plant it permanently or take it over for next Christmas.

Pungens and spruce require a sunny exposure.

Abies, Nordmann, Omorika, Grandis and Nobilis prefer shade when they are young.

Choose a location where the soil remains fairly moist most of the year to limit watering chores.

Planting your tree to let it grow

In a large pit, twice as deep as the pot, plant a well-moistened root ball, with a few unrolled roots (cut a little if necessary to untie the root bun). In this pit you should bring potting soil, or even heather soil for those who require acidic soil, which is mixed with the local soil; the rootball is buried in it, creating a slight depression that collects the water from the watering above and around the rootball. Water immediately to settle, and if it doesn't rain enough in the following months and then regularly as soon as it is dry, during the summer.

Mulch with pine bark: it acidifies the soil and keeps it cool.

This tree can be fertilized, preferably with compost or manure placed at the bottom of the planting pit or on the surface under the mulch.

Planting your tree to reuse it the following Christmas

The goal here is not to make it grow, but to keep it alive until the next Christmas. This process can be repeated up to 3 times, if you are rigorous in watering.

The tree can be kept in its pot, but the pot will be buried in the ground with a small basin above it to water it effectively. Its roots being trapped in the pot, watering should be very regular. The soil must not dry out. It should be placed in the coolest place in the garden and mulched.

It will be easy to prune and reuse.

It can also be transplanted without pot as before. We will avoid any fertilizer so that it does not force too much. For the next Christmas, take it out of the ground and repot it by cutting the roots too long to put it back in a pot.

If it is too rooted or grows too much, it can be turned into a cut stem tree, which means that the recycling of your Christmas tree is over.

In any case, if you bought a potted tree, you can always try to keep it alive in the garden to reuse it the next Christmas. But don't forget to water it like a green plant during the time it spends in the house. A tree that loses almost all its needles is almost dead.

Conifers for all tastes and all seasons

Conifers are precious trees in the garden because they keep their foliage in all seasons. Resistant, as beautiful in isolated subjects as in hedges, they are part of the fundamentals in a garden.

A wide variety of shapes, a wide range of colors and hardiness are all part of the conifer program!

What is a conifer?

Unlike most trees which are angiosperms, conifers are gymnosperms, which means that they generally produce their seeds (naked ovules) on the scales of their cones. They do not flower in the usual sense of the term. Most conifers keep their foliage in winter (except for ginkgo and larch), which is an important asset in the garden, especially in the case of windbreaks or privacy hedges that must also be effective during the bad season. The tough leaves are often needle-like or scale-like, which gives them a very good resistance to climatic elements, such as heat or cold. The foliage is also less sensitive to evaporation thanks to this constitution.

Conifers for all tastes

In addition to the cedar well known for its rapid growth and its use in hedges for decades, the world of conifers offers an amazing variety that is interesting to exploit in a garden. There are conifers for all tastes and for all gardens, from the largest to the smallest, thanks to the dwarf and creeping varieties.

Sequoias are best reserved for large gardens with their 100 meter height and their consequent spread, as is the Cedar of Lebanon, ideal as an isolated subject on a lawn in mountainous areas which it particularly likes. Whether it comes from Lebanon, the Himalayas or the Atlas, the cedar is always a majestic tree requiring space because it can reach up to 50 meters in height! In terms of colors, the cedar covers a palette ranging from dark green to blue.

The common yew is very interesting in hedges and topiary because it supports well the pruning. Its growth is slow, so pruning operations to obtain a beautiful hedge are limited compared to other trees.

Beware, the foliage and berries are toxic.

Cypress comes in 24 species, the most famous of which is Cupressus sempervirens, the Italian cypress with its characteristic silhouette reaching for the sky. Rustic, ornamental, resistant to pollution, heat and drought, the cypress has enormous assets. It will be used to mark the entrance of a property as a sign of welcome, but also to make graphic alignments marking the contours of a driveway. This cypress can also be used as a hedge.

Among the best known and most widespread conifers are of course the pines. A vast family of about a hundred species, including the umbrella pine with its characteristic silhouette reminiscent of the seashore and sandy soil that it loves, but also the Scots pine, which is more fond of freshness, as well as the Austrian black pine, which is well suited to high altitudes to form vast forests.

We don't think much about juniper in the garden and yet it has many assets. Its bark is decorative and aromatic, its bluish foliage and its berries are all ornamental values. Hardy, it also tolerates drought, heat and sea spray. It grows in all types of soil, even sandy! Among the many species you will certainly find the one that suits you. The creeping forms will be able to cover an embankment, the tortuous forms will be appropriate perfectly in isolated subject, whereas the species with prickly foliage will constitute defensive hedges!

The yew in the garden

The yew is a very popular tree in the garden where it has multiple ornamental functions. Easy to grow and maintain, its many varieties, of various sizes, colors and shapes, can create beautiful atmospheres.

The yew, a tree with exceptional longevity

The yew is a coniferous tree native to the northern hemisphere; the two most cultivated species in the garden are Taxus baccata and Taxus cuspidata.

This evergreen tree made of needles can reach a height of 20 meters and live more than a thousand years. All the parts of the plant are very toxic by ingestion, that's why it has been used for all times for hunting (on arrows) but also as poison by the Romans who got rid of their enemies.

In the garden, it appreciates all types of soil, whether chalky or acid, poor or fertile. However, the soil must remain slightly cool but never soggy. The yew can be pruned very well, which is why it is one of the most appreciated trees in topiary.

Uses of yew in the garden

Yew comes in species and varieties ranging in size from 60 cm to 15 m high. Some adopt a fastigiate habit ideal for verticality, others a compact and spreading habit, perfect for ground cover.

Taxus baccata 'Fastigiata', erect and with a strong development, will find its place on both sides of an entrance of property or in alignment to underline a vast path. Its narrow pyramid shape, reaching for the sky, can also adorn a lawn or serve as a sentinel near a home.

As an isolated subject, this yew catches the eye, it serves as a focal point in perspectives, in which case it can take on the shape of a cone once pruned or retain its natural fastigiated habit.

The non-fastigiated varieties of Taxus baccata are of course widely used to form dense hedges as is Taxus x media. The latter is faster growing and has a compact habit, although it can still reach 5 m in height. Very durable, this evergreen hedge will only need one annual pruning, which is an advantage compared to other species that grow much faster.

In Zen gardens or gardens with a Japanese tendency, Taxus cuspidata with its well-structured branches and evenly distributed needles is a subject of choice. Trimmed 'in the cloud' it always looks good surrounded by Japanese maples, camellias and ferns. This species, if planted in semi-shade, tolerates drought well.

To cover an embankment, adorn a riprap, or simply cover an area where grass is not growing, consider Taxus baccata 'Rependans' a ground cover variety that doesn't exceed 60 cm in height but spreads to nearly 5 m. Over time, or with a little help from precise pruning, it forms very attractive rounded cushions. The variety 'Summergold' with its very luminous golden yellow foliage can be used for the same purpose.

The yew can also find its place in beds, depending on the variety, it will then be planted in the background of the decor in the company of shrubs, or in the center to create a contrast with flowering plants.

The yew also invites itself on the terrace in pots or large containers. Once again, the 'cloud' shapes will have the best effect, but don't neglect the compact varieties that can easily replace boxwood and be cut into a cone or ball for a very classic look.

The Conifers

The vast world of conifers offers a wide range of possibilities in the garden. Slender, pyramidal or drooping, the silhouettes of these trees are always elegant. The choice is yours!

How to choose your conifer?

Conifers generally become large trees, most of them imposing and very decorative. Except for the ginkgo or the bald cypress, they have the advantage of not losing their leaves and therefore remain green all year long.

Very hardy, they adapt to most gardens, even in the mountains for most of them. Some of them, such as the lariccio pine, the Atlas cedar or the Nordmann fir, are recommended in places where the elements are unleashed in winter and where the cold reigns. Others particularly appreciate sandy soils and tolerate sea spray and drought, such as the umbrella pine, which is very well adapted to the seaside, majestic in its bearing and producing delicious pine nuts, or the Florence cypress, which once well established, will launch its arrow towards the sky despite poor soil and drought.

If your garden is crossed by a stream or borders a marshy area, think of the magnificent Bald Cypress which will adorn the banks with its drooping and tortuous branches. Reserve a nice space for it, as this tree can reach 30 m in height for a spread of 20 m. In cool and chalky soil, think of the yew to decorate a shady area.

If your garden is very large and you wish to create an imposing alignment, don't hesitate to use the sequoia, a tree with an erect bearing and a narrow crown that can reach 60 m in height. It needs deep, rich, acidic soil to do its best.

As isolated specimens on a lawn, the large Atlas or Lebanese cedars always do wonderfully with their imposing port shaped by the elements. Again, allow for space as these majestic trees can grow to impressive sizes.

Conifers are also ideal for forming compact hedges, windbreaks and privacy screens. Choose the Leyland or Florence cypress that you can prune to contain their vigorous growth.

Let's not forget the ginkgo, a conifer that is a bit special since it does not have needles or scales but rather curiously cut leaves, very original, green then turning golden yellow in autumn. Very ornamental, it deserves a place of choice in a patio or on a lawn, but also finds its place in a Japanese or Zen garden.

How to plant your conifers?

A fall planting in September or October, when the ground is still warm but the rain is abundant, is recommended.

Always ask about the adult size of your conifer, because as we have seen, some of them can reach 60 m in height and a spread of 20 m. Do not consider such a tree if your garden is small and respect the planting distances and the regulations concerning the plantations on property lines.

Prepare the planting hole a month in advance. If your plants arrive sooner than expected, don't panic! They can survive in their containers until your land is ready for them.

Add compost and ground horn to the planting hole.

Soak the root ball to hydrate it before planting, then carefully remove the pot, keeping the root ball whole and not disturbing the roots (no pruning or pruning).

Install your tree in the planting hole, fill in, pack and water very abundantly.

Leave a basin around the foot to contain the water.

Blue trees, a strong personality

"Real" and "fake" blue trees come in a large number of cultivars, more or less dwarf, which can be recommended for a small garden.

The dwarf Colorado spruce, Picea pungens 'Glauca Globosa' is commonly called the "dwarf blue fir". It is the most common cultivar, and certainly one of the best varieties for small gardens and container growing. It forms a nice compact ball, which evolves into a rounded pyramid that can reach 2 m high at 30 years. The average annual growth is 6 to 8 cm. The short and tight needles, prickly, keep a beautiful silver-blue color all year long. It has been cultivated since 1937.

Among the Picea pungens, there are other dwarf forms like 'Glauca Procumbens', totally spread out, to be cultivated with golden heather. It has been cultivated since 1910.

Picea pungens 'Prostrata' is a closely related cultivar that does not exceed 60 cm in height, but can spread over 2 m wide.

The white fir (Picea glauca) has given some dwarf and bluish forms like: Picea glauca 'Echniformis' which forms a spreading cousin of 50 cm high at adulthood, with greyish glaucous green needles. Picea glauca 'Sanders Blue' forms a cone of about 50 cm high at 15 years old, with very nice young blue shoots.

Collectors will remember some less common forms like Picea x mariorika 'Machala', a hybrid of Picea mariana and Picea omorika, which forms a compact rounded pyramid with a silvery blue sheen. It reaches barely 1 m in height and width when mature. It can be recognized by the two silvery white stripes on the back of its needles (like Picea omorika).

Among the true firs, the dwarf and blue forms are rarer.

Abies concolor 'Archer's Dwarf' is a slow-growing, glaucous American cultivar to be grown in rock gardens.

Abies concolor 'Compacta' with greyish steel blue needles is more common, characterized by an irregular silhouette. It can grow to over 2 m when fully grown. It has been cultivated since 1891.

Abies cephalonica 'Meyer's Dwarf' (or 'nana') grows horizontally. It is cultivated since 1963.

Abies lasiocarpa 'Compacta' (sometimes wrongly called Abies arizonica 'Compacta') forms a nice regular pyramid, very tight, of a beautiful bluish grey. It is over 2 m high when mature and resists well to drought, but does not appreciate limestone. It has been cultivated since 1927.

Abies magnifica 'Nana' is a rarity that forms an irregular stack of bluish swatches.

Abies pinsapo 'Horstmann Witches', takes a spreading, rather irregular form with a mixture of green and bluish branches.

Abies procera 'Blaue Hexe' is a very dwarf, tightly balled form from Germany, best grown in pots.