Advocating for diversity in hedgerows

Gone is the sad, uniform, massive and straight hedge. The garden hedge has evolved, long live the compound hedge! Inspired by the bocage hedge, this modern version highlights more decorative plants.

For a few years now, green walls have lost their appeal, too rigid, too opaque, too cold. With the new hedges, around the garden, we see again the values of a more abundant, diverse and colorful life. The plants mix according to your desires, entangling their free and flexible forms. Flowering shrubs, fruiting shrubs or colored foliage, deciduous trees of the soil are associated with bushy evergreens for a hedge, a real living plant case.

As the seasons go by, you will see your hedge change colors, like so many renewed pleasures. And even if, in winter, these species become more discreet, who cares! Do you really spend a lot of time outdoors in the wrong season? And besides, among the proposed species, some even keep a winter attraction, and not the least!

The proportion of deciduous species should be about 2/3, with a preference for flowering shrubs. As for evergreen plants, avoid conifers in this type of hedge. In addition to being beautiful, the mixed open hedge is also ecological. It welcomes birds, offering them a choice shelter. Choose berry bushes, hawthorn, black elder, mahonia, viburnum... They will come to feast on them. In spring, you can watch (from a distance!) the construction of the nests and the emergence of the young! For the butterflies, plant buddleias, lilacs, and other escallonias, cotoneasters and privet...

Planting distances

The difference between a bed and a compound hedge comes from the aligned arrangement of the plants (the ideal being however to plant on two rows in staggered rows) and their closer position. The average spacing between two shrubs is 1 m (compared to 2 m to 2.50 m in beds).

Pruning

A mixed hedge is very easy to maintain. Pruning is no longer a chore! A single annual pruning is sufficient (generally in September). It is enough to balance the silhouette of each shrub and to lighten the branches of plants that are too enterprising and that try to gain ground on their neighbors. Flowering shrubs also benefit from being rejuvenated every three years by removing old wood in favor of young shoots. If you have used colorful berry bushes, wait until early winter to prune.

Care

Another major advantage of the mixed hedge is that it is more resistant! The diversity of species that make up the hedge protects it from the lightning attacks that have sometimes destroyed coniferous hedges.

Good advice

To limit maintenance, place a planting film on the well-prepared soil. It prevents the proliferation of weeds and conserves moisture well. The installation of a drip watering system is also recommended.

Planting an evergreen hedge

An evergreen shrub hedge has many advantages: it is both a windbreak and an occulting hedge, and it also offers shelter to small animals in the garden. Which shrubs to choose, when and how to plant them? Explanations ...

Plants for an evergreen hedge

Many plants can be used to create an evergreen hedge:

• Photinia ;
• Japanese Aucuba ;
• cherry laurel ;
• bamboo ;
• berberis ;
• Privet ;
• oleander (in the South) ;
• charcoal ;
• eleagnus ;
• pyracantha ;
• viburnum ;
• escallonia ;
• cedar.

When to plant an evergreen hedge?

The best time to install your plants is in early fall when the ground is still warm enough and the rains are more abundant.

Preparing the soil

Manually weed the site of the future hedge and aerate the soil with a grelinette. Correct the soil structure by adding compost, especially in heavy and clayey soils, to aerate them. If the soil is poor, add good potting soil and compost with ground horn.

Planting

It should be done in staggered rows to create a natural look and allow a good development of the branching and roots. Don't forget that the law requires you to plant shrubs not exceeding 2 m in height at a minimum distance of 50 cm from the boundary of the neighborhood. Also remember to leave enough room behind your hedge to have access for pruning operations.

• Dig a planting hole at least twice the size of the root ball.
• Pour a handful or two of ground horn into the bottom of the hole and set your shrub up so that its collar is flush with the ground.
• Fill in the hole with the prepared soil, making sure to pack it in well so as not to leave any residual air bubbles.
• Water abundantly.

Maintenance

For the first two years after planting, watering should be very regular to promote recovery and ensure that your hedge grows well. Think of mulching, which will keep the soil fresh while preventing the development of undesirable weeds that would compete with your shrubs. A thick mulch (minimum 20 cm) will be perfect for this purpose. If it is of organic origin (grass clippings, RCW, dead leaves, straw...) it will gradually decompose bringing fertilizing elements to the soil and preserving the fauna and micro-organisms present in the surface layers of the earth.

Frequently asked questions about boxwood

A flagship plant of French gardens, boxwood has been adorning public and private green spaces in many ways for centuries. Easy to grow and to prune, it has an evergreen foliage throughout the year, but despite all these advantages, it is subject to a terrible pest, a parameter that must be taken into account before installing it in the garden.

Find your most frequent questions about boxwood, its pruning, its planting and the boxwood borer...

• How to take care of a box tree in a pot ?
• How to fight against the boxwood borer ?
• How to plant boxwood in the ground?
• How to plant boxwood in a pot ?
• How to prune boxwood ?
• How to use boxwood in the garden ?
• Does boxwood fear frost?
• Is boxwood drought resistant ?
• Can boxwood be planted in all types of soil?
• Can boxwood be planted in pots?
• What is boxwood?
• When to plant boxwood?
• When to prune boxwood?
• What to plant instead of boxwood?
• What is the most common boxwood species grown in gardens?
• What is the ideal exposure for boxwood?
• What are the main boxwood diseases?
• What are the main boxwood pests?

How to maintain a boxwood in a pot ?

Watering must be controlled, because in a pot, the substrate dries out quickly, especially in hot and windy weather with a very sunny exposure. Water as soon as the surface of the substrate dries to 3 cm during the summer.

In winter, if it does not rain, water every 10 to 15 days.

During the summer season, add a liquid fertilizer 'Special green plants' every 15 days to the watering.

Boxwoods grow slowly, especially the dwarf varieties used for pot culture. Repot every 3 to 5 years in a larger pot. In the meantime, a simple topdressing with compost will do the trick.

Prune in May and September if you want to give it a special shape.

How to fight against the boxwood borer?

The female moth, a nocturnal butterfly, lays her eggs on the back of the leaves, they will turn into voracious caterpillars. Up to 3 generations can follow each other in one season from June to September! There are pheromone traps, to be placed as soon as the first flights and anti-insect nets but it must be admitted that the solution is not very aesthetic!

Another alternative is to spray Bacillus thuringiensis, a bacterium that causes the death of caterpillars by ingestion. The entire foliage, including the reverse side, must be sprayed to ensure the effectiveness of the treatment. To be renewed in case of rain, and every 10 days in period of attack. Constant attention is recommended, observe the foliage, if it is covered with small webs on its reverse side and you observe caterpillars, destroy them immediately by hand and treat!

Prevent the invasion of caterpillars by encouraging the installation of chickadees which are natural predators. Place nesting boxes nearby.

How to plant boxwood in the ground?

The choice of the species or variety will depend on the use of the boxwood (see 'How to use boxwood in the garden').

• Soak the root ball in a basin of water for an hour before planting to hydrate it.
• Prepare the soil by removing wild grasses and aerating it with a grelinette. Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball in all directions.
• Scratch the sides of the hole, then pour a layer of compost at the bottom, you can add mycorrhizae to make the shrub more vigorous and less sensitive to diseases and parasites.
• Add garden soil to adjust the height so that the neck of the box tree is flush with the soil surface.
• Fill in any gaps with garden soil and pack around the base.
• Form a trough around the perimeter of your box tree to retain water.
• Water copiously.

How to plant boxwood in a pot?

• Choose a pot with a hole in the bottom equivalent to twice the size of the root ball.
• Provide a drainage layer at the bottom of the pot made of clay balls or gravel so that the roots are not constantly subjected to harmful humidity.
• Mix a good commercial potting soil and compost and add a handful of ground horn powder. Meanwhile, soak the plant's root ball in room temperature water to hydrate it before planting.
• Set the plant in the center of its pot and add more mix to fill in any gaps. Do not bury the collar of the shrub, it should be flush with the surface of the soil.
• Water, then add more mix if necessary.
• Do not let water stagnate in the cup.

How to prune boxwood?

Disinfect the blades of the shears and the pruning shears with a absorbent cotton soaked in methylated spirits or by passing them through a flame in order to avoid the risk of spreading diseases.

Training pruning

Cut back the branches to 10 cm from the base to induce branching as soon as they are planted.

The following spring, keep the carpenter branches according to the desired shape (ball, square, pyramid, spiral...). Cut the other branches. Prune the retained branches by cutting 5 cm from their ends.

In the third spring, when the box tree starts to take shape, have a light hand and prune just the ends in May and September.

Maintenance pruning

Maintenance pruning of boxwood is done when the tree has taken the desired shape in order to preserve it. Remove the dead wood at the base and remove the stunted or damaged branches. Then prune the ends of the stems in May and September to maintain the desired silhouette. Always start at the bottom of the shrub and work your way up to give the shape. For a topiary shape, a template can be very useful. For hedge trimming, use a straight line to trim straight and let the shears slide along it to get an even cut. Remember to keep the base slightly thicker than the top to allow light and rainwater to penetrate your hedge.

Rejuvenation pruning

Rejuvenation pruning is done on an older tree that is beginning to thin out at the base. With a lopper, cut back the branches to 40 cm from their base. To ensure recovery, water with nettle manure diluted to 10%, then scratch a mixture of ground horn powder and dried blood at the base of the plant.

How to use boxwood in the garden?

Boxwood is an evergreen. It therefore finds a logical application in the formation of separating or limiting hedges. Buxus sempervirens can reach 6 m in height, but it grows slowly, however, it can be used for this type of employment.

Around a vegetable garden, in a parish priest's garden, on the edge of a path or a bed, it emphasizes and delimits the contours marvelously, in this case, one will choose the variety 'Suffruticosa' very compact and not exceeding 70 cm in height or 'Blauer Heinz' which presents the same characteristics. Lovers of variegated foliage will prefer 'Nana Variegata', dark green with white spots.

All of these small varieties are perfect for creating French-style beds, where the boxwood's interlacing and twisting patterns will adorn a beautiful lawn!

The larger species can be used to partition a particular area of the garden such as around a pool, a garden room or a shed.

Boxwood has its place in topiary art because it can be pruned in all directions and thus take on conical, square, pyramidal or round shapes. Large subjects can be used to create picturesque scenes in a French garden, punctuating the corners and creating perspectives.

In individual wooden pots, cut into balls, boxwood punctuates a property entrance, on a roof terrace in corten steel pots, it will be cut into squares to emphasize a very contemporary style.

Trimmed into clouds in a Japanese style garden, boxwood always makes an impact!

Does boxwood fear frost?

Boxwood is a perfectly hardy plant as it can withstand frost down to -20°C. It can therefore be planted in most regions.

Is boxwood drought resistant?

Once properly installed, boxwood is perfectly resistant to a few episodes of drought and even to heat without any problem.

Can boxwood be planted in all types of soil?

Boxwood is not very particular about the type of soil. It tolerates limestone as well as acidic, cool or dry soils, however it grows much better in balanced, drained and moist soil.

Can boxwood be planted in pots?

Yes, boxwood can be grown in a pot as long as the pot has a hole in the bottom and is large enough to promote the plant's root development. Dwarf species and varieties such as Buxus Sempervirens 'Suffruticosa' and 'Blauer Heinz' or Buxus microphylla and its multiple cultivars are particularly well suited to this type of culture.

What is boxwood?

Boxwood, from its Latin name Buxus sempervirens, is a shrub with tough green evergreen foliage belonging to the Buxaceae family. The genus Buxus includes about thirty species.

When to plant boxwood?

The best time to plant boxwood is in the fall when the soil is still warm and the rains will help the plant take root and form vigorous roots. A spring planting is of course possible, but it should be followed by regular watering in summer to ensure a good recovery.

When to prune boxwood?

There are 3 types of pruning :

• training pruning on a young tree, which is done in spring;
• maintenance pruning on an already formed tree, which is done in two stages, in May and September, to maintain a beautiful, well-structured shape;
• rejuvenation pruning, which is only done on very old trees in May.

What to plant instead of boxwood?

If in your region, boxwood is attacked by moths and fungal diseases, you might as well turn to alternative plants such as Myrsine africana in regions with a mild climate, Ilex crenata, a hardy holly that ideally replaces boxwood in all situations, the fast-growing Burkwood osmanthus, which is perfect for forming a hedge, or the hardy charcoal, which can also withstand all the situations that boxwood tolerates. Think also of the shrubby honeysuckle (Lonicera nitida) with a compact habit and evergreen foliage that resists both cold and drought, as well as the tarentine myrtle (Myrtus communis subsp. Tarentina), ideal in the Mediterranean zone.

What is the most cultivated boxwood species in gardens?

Buxus sempervirens is the most commonly cultivated species. It is native to the Mediterranean basin. This shrub with very branched branches can reach 6 meters in height. It has small, dark green, leathery and shiny leaves that do not fall off in winter.

What is the ideal exposure to plant boxwood?

Boxwood tolerates full sun as well as half-shade or even shade. This plant is not picky about exposure!

What are the main boxwood diseases?

Two virulent cryptogamic diseases (Cylindrocladium buxicola and Volutella buxi) attack boxwood. Prevention is essential, by planting only in well-drained soil, avoiding watering the foliage and spraying horsetail decoctions every ten days during the summer. Bordeaux mixture can also be sprayed in late fall and winter.

What are the main boxwood pests?

Psyllids, midges, and the dreaded boxwood borer. Cydalima perspectalis, the deadly boxwood borer is a nocturnal moth from Asia that has been proliferating since 2008 causing immense losses on plantations.

Pruning cedar

An evergreen shrub, the cedar has long been the darling of gardeners who want to create dense, durable hedges. Its rapid growth requires regular pruning and precise gestures. Let's see how to proceed.

When to prune a cedar hedge?

Cedar should be pruned in early spring and again in August to keep your hedge looking nice and even.

How to prune a cedar hedge ?

The goal is to limit the height and thickness of the hedge while maintaining a regular growth so that the trees do not 'fall' from the base. To do this, the base should be wider than the top, which will also help light and rain penetration. If this type of pruning is not practiced, the top will be fuller than the base and your hedge will lose all its ornamental aspect.

In regions where snow falls in abundance, do not hesitate to round off the top of the hedge a little, to prevent the weight of the snow from destroying your cedars. This way it will slide to the ground without damaging them.

Materials needed:

• Stakes and a string;
• A shear or a hedge trimmer;
• A lopper.

How do I do it?

• Stake the hedge on either side and attach a string to the desired cutting height. In general, the line should be placed about 30 cm below the top of the hedge if it is a simple maintenance cut.
• Start by trimming the bottom of the hedge, keeping the blade parallel to it. Remember that the base should be thicker than the top. Go back up by trimming slightly shorter and stop at the level of the chalk line, no need to go higher since this part will be removed. The movement must be smooth and regular. If a branch larger than the others has to be cut, use the lopper.
• Don't hesitate to take a step back to see if you are satisfied with your work.
• Once the first side of the hedge is trimmed, proceed to the second side in the same manner.
• Then set up your ladder in a secure manner to work safely.
• Keep your shears or hedge trimmer level and parallel to the line to ensure a flat, even top.
• Before moving the ladder, take advantage of being at the bottom to check the quality of your work and rectify it if necessary.
• Proceed in this way throughout the hedge.

A fast growing hedge

Sometimes it is urgent to protect yourself from the eyes of the neighbors or from a prevailing wind. Some fast-growing plants will help you in record time if you take good care of them.

The right conditions

Whatever the shrub, it must correspond to the physical characteristics of your region and the soil of your garden. Climate, exposure, pH and soil type should be taken into account before making your choice.

Remember also to determine your needs: if you want to be sheltered from the wind all year long, it is imperative to choose evergreen shrubs. If you choose deciduous species, you can mix them with evergreens and create a mixed hedge that will be much appreciated by the animals that come to the garden.

Choice of shrubs

Preferably choose young, bare-root shrubs. These will have a much better chance of recovery and will grow much faster than taller plants stored in containers whose roots may have suffered. Always check that the roots have not formed a bun, as in this case the plant is already suffering and will take a long time to recover.

Careful planting

Plant your shrubs in the fall in amended and loosened soil. Add well decomposed compost, a little ground horn powder and mycorrhizae to facilitate the recovery and make your plants more resistant.

Respect the planting distances to leave enough room for your shrubs to grow harmoniously.

Remember to water your hedge often, both in summer and in winter, because depending on the region, drought can also occur in winter, causing a delay in growth!

Don't forget to mulch the soil to avoid competition from wild grasses and to maintain a certain freshness in the soil.

What are the fast-growing shrubs to form a hedge?

Among the great classics, the Leyland cypress remains a safe bet, as does the cedar. These conifers grow quickly if they find ideal growing conditions.

Privet has been used for decades. Despite its qualities, it is gradually being replaced by more modern shrubs such as Photinia 'Red Robin' which blooms abundantly and presents beautiful red shoots in spring. The cherry laurel and its large shiny green leaves are still very effective and easy to maintain, while the elaeagnus tolerates strong winds, sea spray and pollution. The perfume of its flowers, although insignificant, perfumes the garden in autumn.

As for deciduous shrubs, buddleia, forsythia and seringat are safe and fast growing. The weigleia is not to be outdone, as is the black elder, which will grace you with its deliciously scented bloom in summer.

Bamboos, which are not shrubs, can also form hedges very quickly depending on the choice of species. Look for Phyllostachys, a genus with many species that are perfect for this purpose.

A defensive hedge

Unfortunately, it is sometimes necessary to protect oneself from intruders on a property. Defensive hedges composed of dissuasive shrubs are a good solution to curb bad intentions.

What is a defensive hedge?

A defensive hedge creates a physical and vegetal barrier that is impenetrable. It is often installed at the property line to prevent the passage of animals or ill-intentioned people. To be effective, the plants that make up the fence must be at least 1.60 m high and 1.20 m thick, and must be prickly or very dense.

Choice of shrubs for a defensive hedge

The mahonia is a shrub of choice to create a defensive hedge. Its leaves are lined with sharp thorns and don't really make you want to rub up against them. Its evergreen foliage turns red in the fall and serves as a backdrop for its yellow flowering clusters that appear in winter and attract pollinating insects. It likes cool soil and is very hardy.

The Pyracantha or burning bush, is one of the best known shrubs for creating a defensive hedge. Very dense, up to 3 meters high and thorny, it produces red or orange berries. Its foliage is evergreen. This very rustic shrub, likes the majority of soils. It supports the drought and the sea spray and can thus be planted in the South and/or at the seaside.

If you are not a fan of tidy gardens, or if the property to be protected is a simple field in the countryside, you can plant a bramble hedge. It will become dense and impenetrable and you will be able to eat blackberries, but beware of the work that awaits you to maintain it!

The barberry is a deciduous shrub, very easy to grow since it grows in almost any soil and in any exposure and is very hardy. It is ornamental with its pink and yellow flowers and brilliant red berries.

In the warmest regions and in very well drained soil, several species of cactus can do the trick. Plant for example Cylindropuntia imbricata which will reach 3 meters in height for as much spread. Its stems are impenetrable and it produces beautiful pink flowers.

Many opuntias are also suitable for the creation of defensive hedges, the choice is vast among species, you will find the plant that suits you without worry.

How to plant a defensive hedge?

Prepare the ground about fifteen days in advance, preferably in the fall. Remove stones and wild grasses. Add the necessary amendments according to the nature of the soil: sand and compost in heavy and humid soil, decomposed manure in poor soil, heather soil to correct a calcareous soil...

Soak the clumps of your shrubs in a basin of water at room temperature. During this time dig holes of 80 cm in all directions, in staggered rows. Space them at a maximum of 80 cm apart to create a dense hedge.

If you choose deciduous shrubs, keep a proportion of 1/3 for 2/3 of evergreens so that the hedge keeps its function.

Add compost and ground horn to the bottom of the holes and plant your shrubs.

Water abundantly.