Basin, a lively show

Water has a magical side in a garden. Ponds, water features, waterfalls and fountains bring life, relaxation and freshness to the garden. A miniature universe that must find its balance to thrive, the water garden requires a certain amount of attention, but requires much less maintenance than one might think.

Well built, carefully decorated, equipped with useful and practical accessories, your water garden will become a point of attraction, evoking softness and serenity, in a peaceful atmosphere with spectacular vegetation that also attracts wildlife.

The pond is a place rich in life that will delight the youngest and the oldest with its permanent living show. Add some lighting and the magic will work even at night.

An animated show

• Water has a magical side that transforms the decor into a world of peace and delight.
• The water enchants us with the serene calm of the still mirror, where the clouds are reflected to evoke infinite depths.
• The cheerful rustle of the water attracts our curiosity and creates a dynamic movement in the composition of the garden.
• At the edge of a pond or a water feature, we live differently and the perception of the garden changes. The cat, our friend, becomes a potential predator of fish, the insects become the actors of an aerial ballet which enchants us.

An aquatic decor for all gardens

• There is nothing to stop you from creating ponds raised by coping stones, especially on a terrace.
• On the balcony, a large Chinese jar or a half barrel can be transformed into a very pretty water garden.
• The return to the fashion of structured gardens is imposing more and more simple geometric shapes (squares, rounds, rectangles). They offer the advantage of an easier installation and simplified maintenance.
• The water garden evolves with the seasons, changing its appearance while maintaining its decorative appeal. Sparkling like a diamond when frozen in the winter, the water garden teems with life in the spring and summer before gently fading into the golden glow of autumn.

A water garden is easy

• The smallest watertight container can be transformed into a small water garden: jar, bowl, trough, half barrel, etc.
• Materials and techniques have evolved and simplified to facilitate installation and maintenance.
• Everything you need to create and maintain a water garden is available in garden stores, which guarantees accessibility and proximity.
• Water in the garden is accessible to all budgets because the systems work in closed circuit and consume very little electricity. A pond pump consumes less electricity than a light bulb!

So...

A Red Label for geraniums

You thought that only hams and chickens could carry the famous 'Label Rouge', well no! The plant world is also involved with a selection of geraniums specially selected to make you want to plant them at home.

Characteristics of the labelled geranium

The Red Label allows the buyer to identify varieties of geraniums with very fast and harmonious growth.

These varieties will bloom abundantly for many months without interruption and come in all the classic colors ranging from white to red, pink and mauve. With single or very double flowers, single-colored or variegated, you are spoiled for choice. You will find both zonal geraniums with an upright habit that make a beautiful effect in beds or pots, and ivy geraniums ideal for decorating your jars, window boxes and transforming your balcony into a flowering cascade.

Easy to live with, these geraniums do not require constant maintenance.

They tolerate heat and even drought and are less susceptible to disease.

They are guaranteed.

How are Label Rouge geraniums produced and selected?

The 'Label Rouge' geraniums are selected by an independent jury from producers following a very particular schedule of conditions. The plants are subjected to a minimal duration of culture to take time to fortify and develop under good conditions. For example, instead of growing 100 plants per square meter, producers are required to grow half as many to ensure optimal development. The INAO (Institut National de l'Origine et de la Qualité), which depends on the Ministry of Agriculture, oversees the whole process and awards the famous 'Label Rouge' if all conditions are met.

Some varieties

Among the 'Label Rouge' geraniums, some like 'Tango Velvet Red' offer intense colors. This very floriferous variety is adorned with semi-double velvety deep red flowers. Also in reds, 'Sunrise' has zoned foliage and bright scarlet double flowers.

If you prefer white geraniums, 'Snow Cascade' has a drooping habit and blooms white from April to October, while the trendy 'Americana White Splash' with its semi-double white flowers with a magenta center will look great in your beds.

Dark purple, 'Royal Blue' with very double flowers is suitable for hanging baskets and pots, which it will adorn with its spectacular bloom from March until October!

Among the pink geraniums, 'Marcada Pink' is a must with its pink bloom forming cascades during long months,

The Label Rouge effect on the consumer

All the European studies prove it: the consumer has currently an anxiogenic behavior and a real loss of confidence towards many elements such as politics, the media but also their consumer products. Labels and big brands bring them this security and reassure them because they are (most of the time) guarantees of quality; 2/3 of consumers say they are ready to pay more for a trustworthy purchase.

A Florentine-inspired balcony

Tuscany, a land of contrasts and light, has seen the birth of many artists inspired by its special atmosphere. Do as they did, and let yourself be tempted by a colorful balcony!

The basic elements

Florentine balconies offer an explosion of shimmering colors, combining vertical plants that provide structure and a profusion of planters that are always opulent. Conifers, succulents and beautiful annuals will find their place in a clever arrangement for a very natural result.

Let's start with the basic structure: the indispensable Florence cypress will be installed in a corner of the balcony to give verticality to the whole. On the wall, a colorful climber will serve as a backdrop for the decor. Among the most popular plants, the bignone, which is covered with orange bells for many months, the jasmine with its bewitching perfume, the wisteria with its pastel colors or the bougainvillea, which should be reserved for well-sheltered areas. For a very Italian effect, don't neglect the quality of the containers; richly decorated pots will be perfect for hosting your plants and giving your balcony that typical touch.

Make way for opulence

Once structured, it's time to give your balcony a welcome touch of theatricality!

On the ground, a few balls of lavender will distill their powerful fragrance, alternating with beautiful pots of white and blue agapanthus to create a contrast of colors and textures. You can add a few large 'Schwarzkopf' aeoniums whose almost black foliage will bring an original shine to the whole.

On a small wrought iron table, a few pots of succulents will find a place in a large wicker basket or an old pewter basin recycled for the occasion: silver-leafed graptopetalums, houseleeks, echeverias, small aloes, crassulas and sedums will form a charming scene, alternating their astonishing blooms over a very long period.

Hanging planters on the balcony, always overloaded to achieve the desired effect, will need to be fixed properly to avoid causing danger. Choose them deep and large enough to be filled with a rich mixture of good potting soil and compost, a very fertile substrate that will allow you to obtain the exuberant result you are looking for.

You can then let yourself go to all the fantasies as long as the color is there! Don't forget a few ivy plants that will hang casually and serve as a base for the annual plants that will follow one another according to the seasons. The essential red ivy geraniums will accompany them brilliantly. Don't skimp on fertilizer to obtain a profusion of flowers and remember to cut back the wilted stems to induce the formation of new buds. Surfinas, bacopas, lobelias and silver baskets will add color to this scene, which is meant to be as exuberant as the character of our Italian friends that their balconies reflect so well.

Petunia or surfinia?

Petunias and surfinias are often confused in garden center labels. Are they really two different plants? What is the difference between them? Let's try to find out!

Petunia in all its states

The Petunia genus includes nearly 40 species of perennial or annual plants native to the prairies or rocky slopes of South America. A very popular plant with gardeners, the petunia comes in a multitude of cultivars with very specific characteristics. The 'Grandiflora', which as their name indicates, have flowers of more than 10 cm in diameter, the 'Milliflora' which have small single flowers, the 'Multiflora', bushy varieties covered with medium-sized flowers and the 'Surfinia' which have for main characteristic to be drooping.

The Surfinia is therefore a petunia, more exactly a variety of petunia.

Birth of the Surfinia

A scientist of the firm Suntory based in Japan went on a study trip to Brazil in 1989 for the realization of a viticultural project in this country. He was amazed by a Petunia inflata, a robust species growing naturally in the fields. He brought it back to Japan where Dr. Sagaki crossed it with other species to finally obtain a vigorous and drooping petunia that the marketing kings named 'Surfinia'.

How to recognize a surfinia from a classic petunia?

As we have seen, the Surfinia is a drooping petunia ideal for making beautiful hanging baskets. Very vigorous, it grows several centimeters per day during the growing season and can easily reach more than forty centimeters in length. The stems of the surfinias are thinner and more branched than those of the classic petunias. The color of the flowers, once limited to fuchsia pink or white, extends to purple, pale pink, red, lavender, dark blue and even yellow. There are also bicolored flowers.  The size of the flowers is comparable to that of the classic petunias. Other advantages are that surfinias are much more resistant to rain and that it is not necessary to cut off faded flowers because new ones grow back very quickly.

Maintenance of surfinia

Just like the classic petunia, the surfinia needs warmth and sun. Usually grown in hanging baskets or large jars, the surfinia needs very regular watering during the summer. Don't forget to add a 'Special flowering plants' fertilizer every 15 days to support the flowering. Around mid-August, if you notice that your plant is blooming less and that its stems are getting longer and thinner, prune your surfinia at 20 cm from its base. It will regain a new vigor.

Scented Pelargoniums

Very precious for their ease of cultivation and their long-lasting blooms, pelargoniums are also available in scented versions. A simple touch of the foliage becomes an enchantment...

Perennials with multiple assets

Scented Pelargoniums are easy to grow perennials that can be planted in the ground in all regions where the winter is mild. In beds, borders or pots, place your scented Pelargoniums not far from a busy place, they will exhale their delicate or frankly marked scents of hazelnut, mint, rose and even eucalyptus at the slightest contact with their foliage, which can also be ornamental. Very cut, variegated, hairy or even velvety, let your collector's soul sail among the many varieties! A sunny location is required for a long and opulent bloom.

Fruity notes

Pelargonium 'Lemon Fancy': clean green foliage, very cut and almost crisp, exhaling lemongrass fragrances. Beautiful pale pink flowers marked with fuchsia pink during long months. 50 cm height for as much spread.

Pelargonium 'Mabel Grey': very veined dark green foliage emitting a strong smell of lemon when crumpled. Single, light pink flowers with purple markings from May to October.

Pelargonium 'Scarlet Unique' : nicely serrated, green foliage with a delicate smell of freshly cut carrot. Very long-lasting bright red bloom (May to October). Variety with a spreading habit, 50 cm in all directions.

Pelargonium ionidiflorum: well-cut glabrous green foliage, with a delicate celery scent. Beautiful flowering beyond the foliage, bright pink flower well opened. A low growing species, ideal in a pot on a balcony.

Pelargonium odoratissimum : large rounded leaves, serrated at their edges, with a nice apple scent. The very fine white flowers literally cover the plant from May to the end of September. Forms beautiful clumps. Ideal in sunny beds.

Intense notes

Pelargonium tomentosum : magnificent green foliage, velvety and very soft to the touch, giving off a powerful mint scent. Small white flowers in bunches, few in number but present over a long period (May to October). Perennial species, robust, with the spread out port (90 cm of spread). Attention, it is not very rustic; in the cold areas a culture in pot is preferable.

Pelargonium 'Fragrans' : harmonious foliage with a strong pine scent, small cultivar ideal in pot (25 cm high). White flowers in bouquets from May to September. The variety 'Fragrans Variegatum' presents a beautiful variegated foliage of creamy white.

Pelargonium graveolens : medium green foliage, very cut and giving off a powerful smell of rose. Lilac colored flowers in bouquet from May to October. Not very hardy.

The wooden deck

What could be more pleasant than a wooden deck to take the time to live fully in your garden? Aesthetically pleasing and easy to install, it is an interesting option to extend the house and create a new living space when the weather is nice.

Contrary to popular belief, a wooden deck is easier to install than a paved or tiled deck. More aesthetic, ecological and integrated, it will blend in much better with the landscape.

Please note that a building permit must be requested for a surface greater than 20m².

Implementation

The location of the terrace depends on the level of sunlight you want, its ideal orientation will be south, southwest. You will then have the possibility to equip it with pergolas or micro perforated canvas in summer. Before building your terrace, take into account the trees in the neighborhood that could provide shade or lose their leaves and fruit and stain the wood permanently. Another important parameter is wind. Choose a protected area, such as between the corner of a wall and the house, to avoid having your deck swept away by the prevailing winds.

Don't forget that your deck should not interfere with your garden, but rather be integrated into it. To do this, install it on one side of the lot or next to the house rather than in the center to avoid the multiplication of small, unusable and unsightly surfaces.

The different structures

You can build your wood deck on various supports.

Often an unsightly concrete slab extends the house, you can exploit it by covering it with wood, thus creating a warm terrace. Simply attach joists directly to the slab, and screw the wood boards to it. It's a job that any good handyman can do, and it won't take you long to do.

If you start directly from the ground of your garden, the preparation of the structure must be careful to avoid future problems: plant concrete blocks every two meters, then spread a polymer wire to prevent the rise of water and the growth of weeds. You will fix the joists on these blocks, then perpendicularly wooden cleats on which the boards will be fixed. For high terraces or terraces on stilts, call in a professional.

The Wood

Exotic woods are ideal for this type of construction. Teak, although expensive, is a "must" for making a deck, it is solid, rot-proof and has its own beautiful characteristic color; ipe is also a brown wood that is very resistant to humidity, fungus and insects, and is a little less expensive. Padauk is currently very popular thanks to its properties and its beautiful coral red color. Its mechanical qualities allow for clip-on or screw-down installation.

All you have to do is make your choice and enjoy your new living space!

Evergreen planters

A planter, a decorative container all winter long, is best planted now, in September/October.

Pansies, cornuta, C anto® cyclamen and primroses are excellent for providing flowers... but it can become boring and flat month after month and year after year. Plus, these species don't dress up their containers!

You will find in your usual garden center evergreen plants proposed in 10 cm pots. These products are very interesting to compose your planter, to dress the front and to serve as a case and/or protection for flowering plants...

• A blue grass (Fescue or Koleria) to sit an orange cornuta or a Canto® cyclamen.
• A copper grass (Carex) to present a pansy or a pure blue cornuta.
• The silver and curry-scented Helichrysum italicum highlights, in particular, scarlet reds, but also all other bright colors.
• The various ornamental thymes, golden, variegated or silver, will dress up the front of the planter or container with a high density of foliage and form a cushion like a display for the flowering plant that will be placed in the background.
• It is the same with Ajuga, a little more vigorous or Lamium and Lysimachia numularia, whose vigor allows to go down to the bottom of the planter.

The variegated Vinca (periwinkle), the ivy and also the Lysimachia numularia, form long branches that give volume and movement to the whole composition.

Make your own wood deck

The wood deck has been a real craze for several years. It has gradually become the reference for landscaping around the house. Indeed, what better than wood to ensure a smooth transition between the house and the garden?

The wooden deck has many advantages :

• easy adaptation to different land configurations,
• a natural and relaxed look that adapts to all styles
• good value for money (the price of a wooden deck)
• Wood is a pleasant material to live with,
• wood is easy to work with,
• low maintenance,
• durability over time.

A simple construction

Depending on the case, the administrative formalities can be reduced or simply non-existent.

Moreover, a wooden deck is easy to build. It is a project within the reach of a beginner. However, the most important thing is to follow the rules of the trade because there are many mistakes made, whether the deck is installed by a beginner or an experienced handyman.

Because there are things that cannot be invented. A good source of information, complete and up-to-date documentation, is therefore a must.

Do the deck yourself

In an estimate for a professionally installed wood deck, the total price is the surface area of the deck multiplied by a flat rate per square meter. This price per m² depends on the complexity of the supporting structure. It includes the price of materials (structural wood, deck boards, fasteners, supplies, finishes, etc.) and the price of labor. The installer includes overhead, social charges and an additional margin. It's normal, he has to earn a living like everyone else. As a result, the price per m² may seem exaggerated at first. There is no exaggeration, but only the addition of very real costs.

By doing it yourself, the savings are very important. You can cut the bill in half and even save 60% or more.

Adopt the right structure

A wooden deck is composed of wooden slats, the decking, attached to a structure.

There are different types of structures depending on the nature of the land and the height:

• laying on concrete slab
• laying on PVC blocks
• laying on concrete blocks
• laying at ground level
• laying on beams

The choice of a type of structure depends on the nature of the ground supporting the wood deck and the height of the wood deck in relation to the natural ground.

It is essential to properly size the structure, otherwise the solidity and safety of the work will be compromised. On the other hand, an oversized structure represents an unnecessary extra cost of several hundred euros and will require much more effort during assembly.

Beware of the "ready-made" solutions offered by some merchants. They are not necessarily the best solution for you. For example, the dimensions and spacing of the joists depend on the section and mechanical characteristics of the deck boards. The dimensions of the beams and joists depend on the loads and spans to be crossed.

Wood decking and sustainable development

Of course, wood is a natural, non-toxic (if not treated), renewable material. At first glance, there is no greener building material.

But BE CAREFUL, choose a wood labeled FSC, if it is an exotic wood.

But the ideal is to use a local wood. Choosing a local wood, it is to support the local economic fabric. It means more jobs. Choosing a local wood is an incentive to exploit the forests, to maintain them, and therefore to promote their growth. For example, Robinia and Chestnut have an excellent resistance to xylophagous agents. Oak, Douglas fir and Larch can also be used with a few precautions.

Planters for Christmas

Today, the Christmas decor is opening up to the outside world! Coming from Northern Europe, we want to give our windows, façades and gardens their festive finery. Decorating contests are organized in some towns and people come from all around to admire the most spectacular creations at night.

In addition to the illuminations, the plants bring you material to stimulate your creativity. There is an unsuspected palette to decorate balconies and windowsills.

Winter flowers, gleaming berries and colorful evergreen foliage can be combined to decorate your windows during the day.

Garlands and other lights will take care of the night show.

Miniature and related fir trees for window boxes 

• False cypress 'Top Point
• Dwarf spruce
• Juniper 'Sentinel
• Juniper 'Stricta
• Dwarf Serbian Fir
• Dwarf Blue Fir

Flowers that never get cold 

• Winter heather (white, pink, purple red)
• Autumn Camellia (pink, white)
• Hellbore (white)
• Winter jasmine (yellow) if pruned regularly
• Japanese Skimmia 'Rubella' (pink)

Berries for the holidays 

• Gaultheria (red, purple)
• Pernettya (pink, white)
• Japanese Skimmia (red)

Red and purple foliage that lasts all winter

• Purple creeping bugle
• Heuchera 'Palace Purple', 'Rachel
• Leucothoe 'Scarletta
• Dwarf Purple Pittosporum
• Purple Sage

Foliage in soft green 

• Muehlenbeckia
• Golden lumpwort
• Rosemary
• Green Santolinia
• Lemon Thyme 'Golden Dwarf

Blue-green foliage 

• Blue Fescue
• Street

Variegated foliage 

• Abelia 'Confetti
• variegated Acore
• Mugwort 'Oriental Limelight
• Carex 'Evergold'
• variegated evergreen sedge
• Fusain 'Emerald Gaity
• Lime 'Golden anniversary
• Golden Anniversary' Lame Tree
• Leucothoe 'Rainbow' (French)
• Ivy
• Pachysandra variegated
• Periwinkle 'Illumination
• Pittosporum small leaf variegated
• variegated sage 'Icterina

Grey foliage 

• Mugwort 'Powis Castle
• Calocephalus
• Maritime Cinerea
• Hebe 'Pagei
• Helichrysum woolly
• Heuchera 'Pretty Polly', 'Can Can'...
• Lavender
• Bear's Ear 'Silver Carpet
• Grey Santolin
• Sage 'Berggarten

Geraniums with fragrant foliage

Surprisingly, scented geraniums diffuse their fragrance as soon as their foliage is crumpled with your fingertips. Ideal for beds, borders and walkways, they are sure to charm you!

Scented cranesbill : what is it ?

Wrongly called 'geraniums', they are in fact plants belonging to the Pelargonium genus, so vast that it includes 230 species of plants and multiple cultivars. There are many forms of Pelargoniums, including the well-known ivies on our balconies, the zonals used in pots and beds, but also the fragrant Pelargoniums whose foliage often gives off a characteristic odor when it is crumpled or when the sun heats it, or even when the dew touches it.

The shapes and textures of the foliage vary from one species or variety to another: velvety, lobed, toothed, cut...

The flowers of these Pelargoniums are often simple, pink or white, rarely spectacular, but this does not matter since it is mainly the fragrance of the leaves that will hold the attention of the gardener.

Species and varieties of scented geraniums

There are botanical species with a strong scent, such as Pelargonium tomentosum, a species that spreads easily on the ground and has beautiful, velvety, hard green leaves. A strong mentholated smell escapes from the plant as soon as it is touched.  The small white flowers are charming and appear in summer. Attention this species native of South Africa is frileuse! Take the pots inside in winter.

Pelargonium odoratissimum is also native to South Africa. The rounded apple green leaves give off the scent of this fruit! From March to July, beautiful star-shaped flowers appear, adding to the ornamental power of this 'geranium'.

Pelargonium blandfordianum is a remarkable and amazing subject! Its very cut, almost feathery, grey/green foliage gives off the scent of almond and vermouth. The flowers of this species are white spotted with dark pink.

On the side of the cultivars and other hybrids, one finds the famous Pelargonium graveolens in these horticultural productions with the marked fragrance of pink. It is used in the field of perfumery and cosmetics. It is used in the composition of rose geranium essential oil, used to treat stress, but also skin problems, nausea and viral infections.

Let's also note the refreshing 'Torento Ginger' with its invigorating scent of lemon and ginger, the 'Lemon Fresh Mosquito Fighter' which keeps mosquitoes away and the no less charming 'Prince of Orange' which is reminiscent of the scent of this citrus fruit.

More surprising, 'Choco Scent' exhales a sweet chocolate and hazelnut scent. It is remarkable by its very cut bright green foliage and by its small pink flowers which contrast with this last one and what to say about 'Chocolate Peppermint' which combines the perfumes of mint and chocolate like a certain well known delicacy!

Balconies in full bloom

In the past, balconies were only decorated with ivy geraniums. Nowadays, the wide choice of plants in various colors, textures and forms offers many possibilities. Pleasure of the eyes assured during all the beautiful season!

New trends, new techniques

Flowering balconies has become a national sport in our country. Some municipalities even encourage residents to do so, to the delight of walkers. The choice of PVC planters in flashy but also more classic colors is growing. English baskets and hanging baskets are available in many models and materials.

New techniques that allow for better water retention (gel, beads...), new substrates that are very rich and specific to each crop, slow release fertilizers but also drip systems applied to the balcony are all advances that facilitate the work of urban gardeners.

In the past, there was only a limited choice of potted plants, nowadays, it is possible to order mini-pots on the Internet in one click and have them delivered to your home. This ingenious system makes it possible to obtain many plants in the beginning of growth, thus less expensive. No more need to sow your seeds while keeping the pleasure of seeing the plant grow!

Every year new varieties are created and flood the market. Original colors, more resistant plants, thematic classification (shade, sun, beautiful foliage ...) offer the possibility of infinite modulation of plantings on the balcony.

Cascades of flowers on the balcony

Just go to any garden center in the spring to realize the sea of flowers that it offers. Among them, the great classics of our balconies such as the ivy pelargoniums or the petunias, but also the osteopermums with their large white, pink or orange daisies, the surfinias forming cascades of flowers with new colors every year, the 'Million Bells' with their small and very colorful flowers, or the multiple cultivars of verbena.

Ideal plants in compositions, bidens, illuminate the pots with their golden yellow, lobelias, lighten the decor with their airy white or deep blue flowers while diascias bring a touch of originality.

Balconies located in the shade or half-shade will benefit from the new impatiens cultivars, including those from New Guinea, with delicately iridescent flowers, as if glittering when a ray of sunlight touches them. Impatiens with very double flowers will be perfect in a pot on a table, in order to fully enjoy their buds looking like small roses.

Let's not forget the timeless fuchsia, which also benefits from numerous hybridizations to come back every year in new versions with ever more chubby and colorful flowers!

Scented winter flowering shrubs for the balcony and terrace

Winter-blooming shrubs are a surprise when you see them braving the season's bad weather to bloom generously for long weeks. And when you realize that most of them are divinely scented, you can't wait to get outside...

For the balcony

Sarcococca humilis : this small evergreen shrub grows very well in a pot. It forms in a few seasons a nice compact clump with dark green and glossy foliage. Small discreet cream flowers are present all winter long in the armpit of the leaves. They emit a very powerful vanilla scent. They are followed by navy blue berries. H and E: 0,5 to 1 m.

Its needs: half-shade, shade. Fresh and humusy substratum. Slight pruning after flowering.

Daphne odora: it is the most perfumed of all the daphnes. Its light green evergreen foliage edged with cream is covered all winter with a generous bright pink bloom with flowery and spicy notes evoking jasmine, carnation and clove. H : 1,5 m. E: 1 m.

Its needs: half-shade, sheltered from draughts. Very well drained soil, cool in summer, rich in humus. No pruning required.

For the terrace

Mimosa: belonging to the genus Acacia, this small tree prefers mild climates. Its clusters of small golden yellow pompons illuminate the winter decor. The scent is reminiscent of sugar and honey. H and W: 2 to 4 m. Its needs: full sun, well drained soil, not calcareous (the species retinoides, the "mimosa of the four seasons" tolerates a little calcareous). When the cold is intense, protect the mimosa with a forcing veil or put the pot in a clear, unheated room.

Skimmia japonica : this shrub with a compact and rounded habit offers a dark green, shiny and leathery evergreen foliage. The plant is dioecious. The flowering of the male subjects is more beautiful than that of the females. From February, small bunches of creamy star-shaped flowers with purple stamens emit a scent reminiscent of vanilla, lily of the valley and orange tree. It is the female plants which offer a splendid brilliant red fructification. H and W: 1 to 1,5 m.

Its needs: light sun, half-shade, fresh soil. Pruning unnecessary (slow growth).

Viburnum farreri : formerly named V.fragrans, this beautiful deciduous shrub is a real winter incense with notes of vanilla, honey and almond. The small clusters of pale pink flowers can be seen from autumn, accompanying us until early spring. They are followed by red fruits. H: 2 to 3 m and W: 2 m. Choose the cultivar 'Nanum' which reaches 1 m and is decorative all year round.

Its needs: sun (shelter from the morning sun, avoid eastern exposures), cool soil. Prune after flowering if necessary. You can also fall for the Camellia sasanqua (blooms from autumn to the middle of winter). Our favorites for the small garden

Daphne mezereum: this deciduous shrub with soft green foliage justifies its name of 'pretty wood' with its generous pink or purple bloom, which lasts several weeks from February to April. Its flowers smell like jasmine but also like hyacinth, carnation and clove. They are followed by small red drupes scarlet very toxic but appreciated by the birds. H and E: 50 cm to 2 m. Slow growth.

Its needs: light sun, half-shade. Well-drained soil but cool in summer. Does not like to be moved.

Witch hazel: the "witches' hazel" is a deciduous shrub with an upright or spreading habit that blooms in late winter. Its flowers in light sulphur yellow, copper or brick red pompons are scattered along the branches. Their scent is reminiscent of honey. For its more intense perfume, prefer the species H.mollis to the hybrids Hamamelis x intermedia. H and E : 1 to 2 m. Magnificent autumn coloring of the foliage.

Its needs: sun, half-shade, shelter from drafts, cool and acid soil. No pruning (slow growth).

Mahonia x media 'Charity' : this large erect shrub becomes rounder with time. It offers a very decorative evergreen foliage. The large, leathery, dark green leaves have very prickly edges. The very long flowering period begins in the heart of autumn and lasts until March. The large clusters of golden yellow spikes perfume the air, evoking the scent of lily of the valley. The flowers are followed by navy blue plum berries, very appreciated by birds. H and W: 2 to 3 m.

Its needs: light sun, half-shade. Fertile, fresh and humus soil. No pruning (slow growth).

You can also fall for the Viburnum carlesii (flowering at the end of winter).

A vegetable garden on the balcony

There is no reason to deprive yourself of the joy of harvesting fresh vegetables grown in a natural way just because you have a simple balcony. Both decorative and useful, this arrangement allows you to change the decor over the months while enjoying yourself, so don't hesitate any longer: transform your balcony into a vegetable garden!

Ideal conditions

To ensure an abundant harvest, a few simple principles must be respected:

Each type of plant has specific needs, so it is necessary to take an interest in their growing conditions in order to adapt the exposure, watering and nutrient supply in a targeted manner. Thus, on a balcony with a southern exposure and plenty of sunshine, you can try growing tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and even melons. Also think about ornamental squash that will take over in the fall, well attached to a trellis along a vertical wall.

In mid-shade, lettuces, radishes, watercress or spinach will perfectly match ornamental plants such as fuchsias, coleus or begonias that will bring a note of color to the whole.

Watering should never be neglected because unlike a traditional vegetable garden, the vegetables will grow in containers and will be subject to much greater evaporation. The pots should not be undersized to allow a good development of the root system.

Remember also to adapt the nature of the mix to the plant: tomatoes and melons, for example, require a very rich soil and consume a lot of nutrients, while aromatic plants such as thyme, rosemary, chives or mint require a lighter substrate, with the addition of sand to ensure good drainage. Once again, don't hesitate to ask about the growing conditions of each plant!

Finally, growth should be supported by very regular and targeted fertilization: leafy vegetables will appreciate a fertilizer with a high dose of nitrogen while fruits will need more potassium to ensure a good harvest. Preferably choose natural fertilizers used in organic agriculture and avoid the use of chemical pesticides. This way, you will grow healthy vegetables with a preserved taste.

A suspended but secure vegetable garden

Be careful, installing a vegetable garden on a balcony should not make you forget the obvious safety rules;

• Avoid overloading the balcony and respect the rules in force in your condominium;
• Avoid overloading the balcony and respect the rules in effect in your condominium; Favour containers made of light materials, keeping in mind that a maximum weight of 350 kg per average balcony is usually tolerated. This weight includes of course the substrate, the plant once developed and the container itself, not to mention the watering water that is added to these parameters;
• Do not install planters on the side of the road and avoid planting heavy fruits such as watermelons which could be very dangerous if they fall.

A garden on my window

In the city, it is rare to have the chance to own a garden, or even a balcony. But don't let that stop you! A window sill will be enough to create a small green space despite everything.

A garden on a windowsill

A windowsill is a restricted space and is subject to a particular microclimate. The heat can be intense in the summer if the window is facing south, but the cold can be just as intense in the winter.

The rain, slowed down by the walls and the roof edges, waters the plants much less. You must therefore take all these parameters into account before you start.

Generally narrow, a windowsill must be well laid out to accommodate your miniature garden. You can choose between a simple planter or several small pots. The containers will be part of the decor and will be visible from inside the apartment, choose them to your taste and as an extension of your interior decor. The choice is vast: pewter, steel, colored PVC, or glazed terracotta, everyone will find happiness in the shelves of garden centers.

For safety reasons, remember to secure your pots so that they do not land on the head of a passer-by at the first gust of wind.

The different possibilities

Depending on the region, the climate but also the taste of each person, it is possible to create various kinds of 'gardens' on a windowsill:

Garden of herbs

Parsley, thyme, rosemary, oregano, mint, basil are all possibilities for a herb garden. The list is of course not exhaustive and can be enhanced with other herbs according to individual taste. In individual pots if they don't require the same watering conditions or in a common planter, it's up to you to compose your own fragrant decor!

Cactus garden

Ideal in the south and for a southern exposure, the cactus garden on a windowsill always looks good. You can vary the heights by giving verticality with candle cacti, oponces and Euphorbias and use spherical cacti in the foreground. If they like the growing conditions, they will bloom amazingly in the spring.

Flower garden

Use annuals or biennials to change your décor often. Viola, cyclamen, small bulbs such as muscaris or Iris reticulata will decorate your windows during the bad season. In summer, pelargoniums or surfinias falling in cascades, bacopas or 'Million Bells' will do well in a sunny window. For shade, choose fuchsias, impatiens or begonias. 

Foliage garden

For a windowsill, choose dwarf shrubs such as some conifers that will give verticality, then place at their feet plants with colored or variegated foliage to give brightness to the scene. Heuchers with deep and bright colors, artemisia or helichrysum with silver foliage, but also small variegated ivy will attract the eye on your windowsills.

A gourmet tree on my balcony

On the balcony, we often limit ourselves to small fruits because we think that fruit trees are reserved for the garden. This is not the case! Bright spring blooms, sweet and melting fruits and beautiful autumn foliage... on a sunny balcony, it would be a shame to go without a fruit tree!

Miniature fruit trees

For a few years now, it has been easy to obtain dwarf fruit trees, resulting from a selection of rootstocks and spontaneous mutations of fruit varieties. Apricot, almond, cherry, peach, pear and apple trees are making their way to the balcony for our pleasure.

In addition to their fruits, which are as large as those of "normal" trees, they offer a generous white or pink bloom depending on the subject chosen. Growing them in pots allows the earliest to benefit from the warmth of the walls or the quick installation of a winter cover in case of sudden cold.

Keys to success: fertile substrate. Mulching and copious watering in summer. Re-pot every 3-4 years.

Fig tree (Ficus carica)

A magnificent and ample cut foliage, sweet fruits nicely colored with green, purple and violet of the fig tree, by choosing varieties with low development it is possible to welcome a small fig tree on its balcony.

Some varieties: 'Brown Turkey', 'Brunswick', 'Dalmatie', 'Dorée', 'Madeline des Deux Saisons', 'Pastilière'.

Keys to success : deep pot (min 40 cm). Light, fertile substrate. Spaced out but copious watering. Organic fertilization at the end of winter. Pruning in spring when the sap rises. Good hardiness of the stump which starts again if there is a severe frost (-15°C).

Oleander (Laurus nobilis)

The laurel has a tough dark green evergreen foliage, supports perfectly the pruning and lends itself to take conical, pyramidal forms or on decorative stems all year long. Pick its leaves to flavor your best recipes!

Keys to success: fertile substrate. Regular watering all year round (if balcony is covered). Pruning in spring or late summer. Avoid cold drafts.

Staging idea

Your balcony is sunny and sheltered from the wind. Take advantage of this micro-climate to host one or two fruit trees adapted to small spaces (dwarf forms, columnar forms...). Accentuate the "miniature orchard" atmosphere with a few pots of small fruits (currants, blackcurrants, strawberries...) and two or three balls of boxwood. Combine these fruity flavors with aromatics (basil, chives, mint, thyme) and geraniums with fragrant foliage. Climbing nasturtiums and morning glory will complete this picture dedicated to the senses.

A tree on the balcony

As soon as a tree is installed on the balcony, it becomes the star of the show, creating a landscape all by itself. The presence of a tree also plays a protective, symbolic role, but not only because it avoids indiscreet glances, filters air currents and sifts the burning rays of the sun. It also brings relief and flexibility to the often strict and flat lines of a mineral urban setting.

Growing tips

Your tree must allow for good circulation on the balcony. If its adult dimensions seem too large, it should compensate by being able to withstand frequent and sometimes severe pruning. Note that growing it in a pot reduces its natural vigor.

Give it a container of choice. Harmonize the shape of the pot with the silhouette of the tree.

Choose a good quality, non-gelling material. Absolutely avoid water reserves as roots generally prefer a well-drained substrate, especially in winter.

The pot must be very stable to prevent the tree from tipping over (on the balcony, draughts are frequent and the wind load of a tree is important).

At the same time, buy useful accessories such as a tray with wheels for trees that need to be sheltered, a saucer to serve as a water reserve in summer...

Pamper your tree: respect its vital needs (substrate, exposure, watering, fertilization). In a pot, the reduced volume of soil increases the natural needs of the tree.

If the size of the pot does not allow for annual repotting, renew the substrate over a few centimeters (resurfacing). Never skimp on the quality of the soil!

In cold regions, swaddle the less hardy pots with several layers of wintering cloth.

Dress the base of the pot with small bulbs (muscaris, cyclamen, scillas, tulips and botanical daffodils), perennials with drooping foliage or a simple aesthetic mineral mulch (slate, oak chips, white gravel) when the roots are superficial and do not appreciate being disturbed.

Your tree will be the star of your balcony, so renew the decor around it regularly. There is no lack of ideas for the four seasons among the range of seasonal plants. Also think perennial scene with other permanent plants (roses, perennials, small shrubs, grasses, bamboo, pruned boxwood...). Over time, you will transform your balcony into a real mini-garden, a living room and the green soul of your home.

Small balcony idea: turn a small shrub, a shrubby perennial, an aromatic, a climber. Turn them into a miniature tree by removing the superfluous branches and creating a single stem that will act as a trunk. Some plants that lend themselves gracefully to this game: young wisteria, fuchsia, oleander, anthemis, solanum, lantana, velvetleaf, but also currant bushes, small conifers, pelargoniums!

Successfully growing bougainvillea in pots

Always sumptuously colored, the bougainvillea adorns the facades of houses in the Mediterranean basin with brio. In these countries with a mild climate, they grow in the open ground requiring practically no care to bloom abundantly each year. In pots, it's a different story...

Why grow a bougainvillea in a pot?

Bougainvillea is one of those plants that grow much better in the ground and should only be planted in a pot if absolutely necessary.

There are two reasons why a bougainvillea should be planted in a pot: lack of space (no garden) or climate (too cold).

It is important to be aware that the chances of success with this type of cultivation are slim, especially if the region is not suitable and you do not have a heated greenhouse, because the bougainvillea is originally from Brazil and needs a lot of heat and sun to flower and develop properly.

If your summer is hot and sunny, you can consider growing it on a balcony and then bring it inside during the cold season to protect it from frost.

Which pot ?

We often hear that bougainvillea blooms better in a narrow pot. This is not true! The root system is important and must be able to develop fully so that this climber, which can reach several meters in height, is at ease. Choose a large pot with a hole in the bottom to install your plant. The material does not matter. Just know that in a terracotta pot, evaporation will be more important, but gas exchanges will be better respected.

Which substrate ?

Plant your bougainvillea in a pot with a thick layer of clay balls at the bottom.

Choose a very good quality potting soil, or even better, organic garden soil in bags (nurseries, garden centers...). The latter holds moisture much better than most potting soils.

Add a little crushed horn and dried blood when planting.

Which exposure ?

Place your bougainvillea in full sun on a balcony, sheltered from prevailing winds. If necessary, install a windbreak to protect it.

What type of watering?

In summer and in pots, the bougainvillea must be watered very regularly so that the soil never dries out completely between two waterings. From autumn onwards, watering should be spaced out, especially if the plant is wintered in a cool place (between 10 and 12°C), it will then go into a resting period (the leaves will fall off) and a watering every 15 days/ 3 weeks will be sufficient.

Is it necessary to bring fertilizer?

Yes, and very regularly during the growth period. In liquid form after watering or in the form of dried blood scratched in the pot to feed this greedy plant. In period of rest, stop all the contributions of fertilizer.

What exposure for a lemon tree in a pot?

The lemon tree, because of its low hardiness, is cultivated in pots in most regions, which implies some particular growing conditions and a certain know-how regarding the exposure to obtain a good harvest.

A suitable pot

Whether it is comfortably installed in a large orangery-type container or in a large terracotta pot, the lemon tree remains a fruit tree whose roots need space to develop. In order to install your lemon tree in the best location for each season, consider placing it on wheels so that it can be moved easily, because for the roots to be comfortable, the pot will necessarily be quite heavy and bulky, especially once it is filled with moist substrate.

Exposure of the lemon tree in pot in spring

As soon as frost is no longer a concern and temperatures stabilize above 10°C night and day, you can consider putting your potted lemon tree on the balcony, terrace or in the garden. Be careful, once it is out of winter storage, it should be placed in full sun very gradually so as not to cause irreversible burns on the foliage, as the light indoors is rarely the same as outdoors. Start by putting it under a shelter (awning, roof overhang, covered terrace...) then, little by little, offer it the morning sun and finally a very sunny southern exposure, if possible protected from the prevailing winds. The period of habituation will extend over approximately one week to 10 days.

Start watering more regularly and add a mixture of crushed horn and dried blood after having made a good composting to promote the emission of new shoots and feed this greedy fruit tree.

Exposure of the lemon tree in pot in summer

In summer, the substrate dries out very quickly in pots, especially if the lemon tree is exposed to full sun and in a windy area. So beware!

• In the northern regions, a full southern and sunny exposure can be maintained because it will guarantee a good fruiting but always at the price of a sustained watering! Be careful, watering must be correctly dosed to avoid drowning the roots and inducing asphyxia; let the substrate dry on the surface for 2 cm before watering again. At this time of the year, if there is some water left in the cup, there is no drama, especially when a thick draining layer (pozzolan, gravel, clay balls...) has been provided at the bottom of the pot. The residual water should evaporate in a few hours at most.
• In southern regions, a full southern exposure and full sun is to be avoided because it would be too hot in the pot, even with an adapted watering.
• In these regions, install your lemon tree facing East or West so that it benefits from at least 4 hours of sunlight in the morning or evening while protecting it from the burning rays of the midday. If this is not possible due to lack of space, install a shade cloth, an umbrella or even better, a camouflage net that allows air and a few sun rays to pass through without the situation remaining hot; all your other potted plants will benefit from this.

Exposure of the lemon tree in pot in autumn

• In northern regions, at the very beginning of autumn, if the temperatures remain mild and above 8°C night and day, move your lemon tree to a south-facing position sheltered from the wind so that it can benefit from as much sun as possible before overwintering. You will then have to be very vigilant about the temperature so that it does not catch a cold!
• In the southern regions, the sun can still hit very hard until the end of October, however, it becomes less scorching. A South-East or South-West exposure is recommended in September, then, from mid-October onwards, the lemon tree can be moved due south until the temperatures drop to 8°C at night. It will then be time to winterize it indoors.

In autumn, start spacing out the watering by watering only when the substrate is 3 cm dry on the surface, whether you grow your lemon tree in a northern or southern region.

Exposure of the lemon tree in pot in winter

In winter, the lemon tree grown in a pot should be installed away from frost, in a very bright and cool room, never in an apartment where the air is too hot and too dry and where the light will never be sufficient unless it is placed next to a south-facing bay window (beware of cold spells at night if the window is not protected by a shutter and curtains).

Choose an orangery if you are lucky enough to have one, a greenhouse, a veranda, or a winter garden. The luminosity should be maximum with if possible a few hours of full sun in the morning or afternoon. In the mildest regions, remember to ventilate the room often in hot and sunny weather, as temperatures can rise very quickly!

In cold weather, install a space heater so that temperatures never fall below 5°C.

The ideal temperature for the wintering of the lemon tree is between 5 and 14°C, the waterings will be then very reduced so that the substrate dries almost completely between two waterings. Obviously, during this period of rest in the cool, the contributions in fertilizers will be stopped.

Planting an olive tree in a pot

The olive tree is a magnificent ornamental plant with southern connotations that can be grown in a pot on a terrace or balcony.

Advantages of growing in a pot

The olive tree is a slow-growing plant that adapts well to pot cultivation, but unlike plants planted in the ground, it will need some care.

Growing in a pot has many advantages:

• accessibility of the culture of this tree to all those who have only a balcony or a terrace;
• possibility to grow an olive tree in cold regions, because in winter it can be brought under cover;
• Possibility to take it with you when you move.

How to plant an olive tree in a pot ?

Prefer to do this operation in spring when there is no risk of frost.

Choose a young, healthy tree with no spots or pests.

Soak the root ball in a large bucket of water for one hour before planting.

Remove the branches at the level of the root ball and the low lateral branches along the trunk.

Choose a tray or pot of a size equivalent to 3 times the size of the purchase pot in all directions. Drain the bottom with clay balls over 5 cm.

If you have a garden, spread a layer of soil from the garden on top. If it is very heavy, add medium-grained sand. A commercial potting soil containing a little clay will also do the trick and will retain water during the hot summer months, thus limiting your watering interventions.

Place the rootball on this substrate so that the collar is flush with the top of the container.

Fill in the gaps with soil, taking care that the plant is straight in its pot.

Pack the soil on the surface.

Water and add soil if necessary.

Specific care for the olive tree grown in a pot

A potted tree is subject to the elements without being able to draw water and the elements necessary for its survival from the earth, so it is dependent on you. Always place your olive tree in a sheltered and sunny place. Be sure to water it very regularly, i.e. once a week in spring and twice or three times a week in summer when heat, wind and drought are prevalent. In winter, reduce watering to a strict minimum and never let water stagnate in the cup to avoid the appearance of diseases.

Winterized plants, especially in heated premises, will need more frequent watering; however, a watering every two weeks should be sufficient.

During the growing season, remember to add a little organic fertilizer every ten days after a copious watering.

Repotting is done every three years in the spring on young trees, then a resurfacing will be necessary every year on the larger and more difficult to handle trees.

It is not necessary to prune a potted olive tree, but you may want to thin out the center of the tree to let in light and ensure good ventilation. Forget the "ball" pruning which favors the appearance of parasites due to lack of ventilation.

Mini rock garden in trough

Creating a mini rock garden in a trough is very easy. It allows you to create a miniature garden a little high, easy to monitor and maintain, which will please children curious about nature. 

Yarrow or saxifrage are the king plants of a mini rock garden, producing their rosette pads. They are easy and colorful plants.

Different kinds of containers can be used, whether it is a real old stone or concrete trough, a small molded trough made of fake stone bought in garden centers or a recycled zinc basin, a large bowl, even chipped, because the possible defects can be masked by a plant that overflows.  Beware, however, of pottery that will not withstand the frost.

Drainage is important

The container, whatever it is, must be pierced at the bottom so that natural drainage is ensured and the trough in question does not turn into a mud bath! 

Alpine plants, although very resistant to drought, generally like to sink their roots quite deep into the soil. They are therefore provided with between 15 and 30 cm of soil; if the container is deeper, the base is filled with pebbles, pebbles, shards of tiles,. Whatever you have on hand.

Which soil to use?

Clay, loam or sandy garden soil is fine. If the soil is too clayey, with a tendency to be impermeable, it can be lightened with coarse sand. If the soil is too rich, with a high moisture content, it can be lightened with gravel as well. Rockery plants are less beautiful and more fragile if the soil is too rich. The bare earth between the separated plants will be covered with gravel.

How to choose the plants?

The rock garden is theoretically created for years, and must withstand the weather without any protection. For this purpose, it is necessary to choose hardy plants. Among the succulents that are seen on sale, make sure with a specialist that they are frost resistant in your region. Some classic examples:

The sunny and warm mini rock garden

The ultimate beginner's rock garden plants are houseleeks, of the genus Sempervivum. Extremely hardy, these little shaved cabbages come in all sorts of species and varieties that allow you to achieve a cameo of color and texture with this one genus. They form a carpet of tightly packed rosettes: for example, large flat rosettes with brown tips with Sempervivum tectorum, bright red rosettes for Sempervivum 'Othello', or small, round and nicely woven with white threads for the species Sempervivum arachnoides.

Their cousin, Jovibarba, are rarer and slower to multiply. A Delosperma nubigenum, hidden behind its yellow daisies, finishes to brighten up the whole (photo). These species of plants, succulent, can be transplanted from April to September.

A shadier trough

If you only have a shadier spot to set up your little rock garden, then you need to put saxifrages in it; there are moss-type saxifrages, which are bright green and like a little more water, and limestone-encrusted saxifrages, which are very compact, in a gray-green carpet, with beautiful flowers. Indeed, the saxifrages are resistant to the drought, but prefer not to overheat, they are satisfied with half-shade, or bright shade.  Their spring flowering is particularly attractive. The pots of the plants are basked before transplanting, which is best done in spring or fall.

Of course, a number of other plants can be suitable, as the world of alpine plants is vast. If you get absorbed in it, one trough after the other, if you become passionate little by little, do not hesitate to join SAJA, the Society of Alpine Gardeners. 

Cutting geraniums

You are dazzled by a variety of geraniums present at one of your friends or neighbors, you wish to multiply yours! Summer is the best season for cuttings. Get started, it's easy!

The right time

In summer the warm temperatures will ensure a good rooting of your cuttings, so it is the right season to propagate your geraniums and pelargoniums. Proceed to the cutting preferably in the morning on a healthy subject, without spots or parasites because it would then be weakened.

The right tools

Take a pair of disinfected pruning shears, small peat pots that can be placed directly in the ground afterwards or a bowl. Choose a "special seedling or cutting" mixture from the trade. You can also make it yourself by mixing 1/3 of good potting soil, 1/3 of peat and 1/3 of river sand.

If you want to multiply your chances of success, it is possible to use the cutting hormone available in powder.

How to proceed?

• Take an end of about fifteen centimeters in length by cutting it cleanly with the secateurs;
• Remove the basal leaves to leave only the two or three leaves of the upper part in order to limit evaporation and cut the flower buds if the cutting presents some to avoid the exhaustion of the plant;
• Prepare your pots or your terrine by filling them with the mixture recommended above;
• Pack the mixture well in the container;
• water copiously and let the excess water drain away;
• with a large pencil or with your finger make a hole in the substrate. This will receive the cutting;
• brush the base of the cutting with hormone powder (about 2 cm);
• place the prepared cutting in the hole;
• Gently fill in around the stem and pack it down;
• water again to eliminate air bubbles.

What next?

Keep your cuttings in a shady spot and water them often to keep the mixture moist without getting soggy. Do not use any fertilizer during this stage.

As soon as the first signs of recovery appear, which will be marked by the appearance of new leaves, you can transplant your cuttings into larger pots containing a good commercial potting soil. You will keep them in a sheltered place all winter to introduce them the following spring in their definitive location.

Planting in planters

When space is limited, such as on a balcony or a terrace, planting in planters is an interesting solution to grow some plants. Planters can be placed on the ground or suspended to create beautiful cascades of flowers.

Specificity of the culture in window boxes

A window box is by definition a container that is longer than it is wide, so it is possible to install several plants side by side. This specificity implies a choice of plants that require similar growing conditions, especially in terms of watering and exposure. It is out of the question, for example, to install cactus and impatiens together because these plants require opposite care. The result would be very quickly catastrophic!

Another parameter to take into account is the small volume of substrate for a number of plants that is often too large. Always keep in mind to install your plants at a reasonable distance so that they can grow and develop properly without competing too much.

For the same reason, the base substrate must be very rich and the fertilizers regular and sustained because the nutrients are quickly exhausted in such conditions. Let's add that watering constraints are also present, especially in the middle of summer, in hot, dry and windy weather. Depending on the plants, daily and abundant watering may be necessary!

Choose deep planters where the roots can properly develop.

Security

Often hung on the street side of a balcony, the planter must be firmly fixed to avoid accidents in case of a gust of wind. In this case, a light material should be chosen, again for safety reasons. Keep concrete or terracotta planters on the ground so that they do not hurt anyone if they fall.

How to plant in a planter?

Whatever the material chosen for your planter (iron, terracotta, plastic, stone, concrete...), drainage holes must be present at the bottom of the container. If they are not present, you will have to drill some.

Place flat pebbles on these holes to prevent the substrate from escaping and then pour a layer of clay balls or pebbles to ensure good drainage so that water does not stagnate at the roots;

Choose a very good commercial potting soil and add some compost and a bit of ground horn.

Pour a layer of this mixture on the draining bed and install your plants by respecting a good planting distance;

The neck of the plants should be about 1 cm from the top of the pot;

Fill in the remaining gaps with the mixture and pack the entire surface well;

Water thoroughly and add more mix if necessary.

Place your planter in its final location according to the requirements of the chosen plants.

Remember to water often and add liquid fertilizer regularly.

Growing lilacs in pots

Common in gardens as a lone subject or in compound hedges, the lilac can also find its place on a terrace or a balcony planted in a pot. Dwarf varieties are preferred to create beautiful scenes without taking up too much space, while still enjoying the wonderful fragrance of this shrub.

Which varieties for a pot plantation?

Choose preferably small varieties for a culture in pot. There are many cultivars not exceeding 1.5 m to 2 m in all directions. Among them:

• Syringa meyeri 'Palibin' with pink/blue flowers ;
• Syringa meyeri 'Josee' pastel pink;
• Syringa julianae 'Red Pixie' purple/wine-lily;
• Syringa microphylla 'Superba', otherwise known as 'Little Leaf Lilac' with pale mauve repeat flowering;
• Syringa 'Bloomerang Pink', a compact hybrid with repeat flowering of deep pink;
• Syringa persica Laciniata, the Persian lilac with sharply cut foliage and blue/mauve flowers, hardy to -15°C.

In what type of pot should I grow the lilac?

Choose a large pot with a minimum diameter of 40 to 50 cm and the same depth to give the roots room. A square or rectangular wooden pot, a large tub, or an unglazed ceramic pot will do the trick. Avoid bulging pots that are too difficult to unstuff and black plastic containers that heat up too much under the summer sun.

When to repot lilac?

Plant your lilac in a pot in autumn in the mildest regions, everywhere else, wait until spring or choose a hardy variety.

An annual topdressing with compost is sufficient for the first two years after planting, then a repotting will be necessary to renew the substrate.

How to plant lilac in a pot?

• The pot must be pierced at the bottom so that water does not stagnate.
• Add a layer of clay balls, gravel or small pebbles to the bottom of the pot to promote drainage, as the lilac hates having its roots constantly soggy. The drainage layer should make up about 20% of the volume of the pot.
• Prepare a mixture of ¼ good potting soil, ¼ garden soil, ¼ compost and ¼ coarse river sand.
• Pour a layer of the mixture at the bottom of the pot over the draining bed.
• Place the root ball and adjust the height, adding more mix if necessary, so that the neck of the shrub is 3 to 5 cm below the top of the pot.
• Fill in any gaps and pack well around the stem.
• Water copiously and add more mix if necessary.

Where to install a lilac in a pot?

A full sun exposure sheltered from drafts is ideal in the northern regions of the Loire. In the south, place your lilac in mid-shade in summer to protect it from the scorching midday sun. In winter, it can be placed in full sun, but be careful with watering in regions where rainfall is rare in winter!

How to water a potted lilac?

Like all plants grown in pots, lilacs will need more attention than if they were grown in the ground. So be careful, if you are used to growing it in the garden, it will require more care in a pot, especially in terms of watering in summer, which must be very regular so that your plant does not 'burn out', especially when exposed on a balcony in full sun!

In order not to make a mistake, never let the substrate dry on more than 3 cm of surface in summer.

In winter, make sure it doesn't run out of water if it doesn't rain.

What fertilizer should I use for my potted lilac?

Prefer an organic fertilizer, less aggressive than a chemical fertilizer, it will be better assimilated by the plant with just as much efficiency and this, without weakening it. In March, scratch a mixture of crushed horn and dried blood at the foot of the shrub or pour a handful of organic granules on the surface of the mixture. As it is not afraid of limestone, you can add a handful of chimney ashes at the end of winter, the blooming will only be more opulent!

How do I prune my potted lilac?

Smaller varieties grown in pots are only moderately pruned. The removal of wilted inflorescences in spring and autumn on remontant varieties constitutes the major part of the pruning operations. If necessary, it is possible, still after flowering, to remove dead wood and to aerate the silhouette a little by pruning the branches that cross in the center of the shrub and by reducing some branches by 1/3. Be careful, because lilacs bloom on the previous year's wood. If you prune too late and too short, the blooming may be compromised!

The culture of cycas in pots

Cycas is a popular indoor or patio plant when grown in a pot. With a short trunk and beautiful glossy foliage that makes it look like a palm tree, cycas is an easy plant to grow.

A primitive plant

Cycas are primitive plants belonging to the Cycadaceae family. Neither ferns nor palms but intermediate between the two, they grow naturally on rocky slopes or in dry, open forests in Australia, Japan, Madagascar and the Pacific Islands. The genus is composed of about fifteen species of which Cycas revoluta, and Cycas media, which are the most commonly cultivated.

Very ornamental, these plants are however cold; they will be planted in the open ground only in regions where frost does not occur. That is why, a culture in pot is recommended everywhere else in order to be able to winter the plant out of frost during the cold season.

How to plant cycas in a pot?

1. Choose a large enough and heavy enough container so that the plant does not tip over. The container should have a hole in the bottom to prevent the roots from rotting.
2. Place a pebble at the bottom of the pot and pour a good layer of clay balls to ensure good drainage (about 20% of the volume of the pot).
3. The nature of the mixture is very important in the culture of cycas; simple potting soil will not be sufficient because it needs a very rich substrate. Make a mixture of clay garden soil, compost, coarse river sand and pine bark. Add a little charcoal powder to this mixture.
4. Spread a layer of the mixture over the clay balls and place your plant in the center of the pot.
5. Pour the mixture around the root ball to fill in any gaps and pack the soil around the stipe.
6. Water copiously and add more mix if necessary.

How to grow cycas in a pot?

Cycas need bright light to grow well. Place it in a winter garden, a veranda or a bright apartment. Shade the windows during the hottest hours of the day if they are facing south.

In the summer, when frost is no longer a concern, you can gradually bring your plant out into the sun on the terrace or balcony. It will spend the summer there and will then be brought back before the first frost.

If you choose to grow your plant outdoors all year round, remember to protect the pot with bubble wrap and the aerial parts of the plant with a winter veil if you do not live in a privileged region.

As far as watering is concerned, cycas needs water regularly during the growing period but let the mixture dry on a few centimeters before watering again because this plant hates having its roots constantly bathed.

In winter and outdoors, let nature take its course. Indoors, water every 15 days and allow a short dry period during the coldest months.

A repotting may be necessary every 4 years in spring in the same type of mixture. If the subject becomes too big to be repotted, be satisfied with a surfacing with compost and crushed horn powder every year.

Growing boxwood in pots

An easy to grow shrub that always stays green, boxwood can also be planted in pots to decorate a terrace or balcony. The icing on the cake is that it can withstand most exposures and can even be sculpted into a topiary!

A precious shrub on a terrace

Boxwood (Buxus) is a hardy evergreen shrub belonging to the Buxaceae family. Native to the Mediterranean basin, it gives off a characteristically pleasant scent. Its small leaves form a compact clump that can be pruned into a ball, spiral or cone shape. It is therefore an ideal subject for a contemporary terrace as well as for a classic style balcony.

Planting tips

One important thing about boxwood: it hates having its feet in water! Choose a terra cotta pot with a hole in the bottom. Unglazed terra cotta allows for gas exchange and retains much less moisture than plastic pots.

Place a drainage bed equal to 20% of the volume of the pot at the bottom of the container. It will be made of gravel, clay balls or small pebbles.

Place a geotextile film on the drainage bed, followed by a layer of potting soil with ground horn powder.

Soak the root ball of your box tree for two hours in a basin of water before planting in order to rehydrate it and facilitate its recovery.

Place the roots on the substrate and fill in the vacant space with the same mixture up to the plant's collar. Pack and water.

Growing boxwood in a pot

For pot culture, choose a dwarf species such as Buxus microphylla, of which there are many varieties and cultivars. Boxwoods are equally at home in semi-shade or full sun. Be careful, because in the hottest regions, it will prefer half-shade in summer. During this period, it will be necessary to water it often because the culture in pot has this particularity to ask for waterings more sustained especially in period of strong heats and of big wind. Never leave water in the cups and wait until the root ball is dry on the surface before watering copiously again. In winter, natural rainfall should be more than enough, except in case of exceptional drought.

Boxwood is an easy shrub: it tolerates frost, pollution and even lack of water if it is not constant. Slow growing, repotting will only be done every 5 years. A surfacing every year will however be welcome. As for the famous pruning, it is done twice a year, generally in May and September, to keep the shrub in good shape.

Growing azaleas and rhododendrons in pots

Rhododendrons and azaleas are the stars of the heathland plant family and are highly prized for their opulent blooms in pastel and bright colors. These excellent bedding plants can also be grown in pots on a balcony or terrace by following our advice.

Why grow azaleas or rhododendrons in pots?

There are several reasons for growing azaleas or rhododendrons in pots: soil that is too chalky, lack of space or simply the absence of a garden may lead to choosing this type of cultivation.

The importance of the container and the substrate

Rhododendrons prefer to be at ease in large containers, whereas azaleas can tolerate being a little more cramped, which is important when you only have a limited amount of space.

These plants are acidophilic, so they need a substrate with an acidic pH. Plant them in very good quality heather soil. Don't forget to drain the bottom of the pot (which should be pierced) with a good layer of clay balls to allow a good evacuation of the watering.

Specificities of the culture in pot

Be careful, these plants appreciate a humid atmosphere, that's why they are so beautiful in English gardens!

Place them in half-shade if your balcony is exposed to the South, especially in Mediterranean regions where they would soon 'fry'. Spread a good layer of mulch at the foot to avoid too much evaporation and water often, especially in hot and dry weather.

Remember to remove the faded flowers so that the plant does not get exhausted.

Don't forget to repot your plants in the spring in a new substrate, or simply surface if the pot is really big.

Ideal varieties for pot culture

Some rhododendrons can form real shrubs, so it is better to turn to dwarf species and cultivars, more suitable for pot culture. Among this vast genus there are species with evergreen or deciduous foliage, the former will ensure a beautiful decor throughout the year, so they are to be preferred.

Japanese azaleas have a compact habit and pastel colored flowers. For a spreading habit, choose the variety 'Pink pancake', or the more original 'Azuma-kagami' with its bright pink interlocking corollas. White azaleas always make an impact: 'White moon' with its wavy petals will be a delight.

Rhododendron 'Blue Diamonds' is appreciated for its evergreen foliage and mauve/blue bloom, while the scarlet red of 'Elisabeth' will delight those who love bright colors.

The more subdued 'Grumpy' in pink and cream, or the pristine white 'Porzellan' are great pieces, while 'Glowing Embers' will add a little pizzazz with its large orange-red funnel-shaped flowers.