Growing citrus fruits in pots

Citrus fruits are very cold plants; they cannot be grown in the ground outside of the very sheltered regions. Everywhere else, growing them in pots will allow them to overwinter under cover.

The choice of the container

Citrus fruits have extensive roots and do not tolerate stagnant humidity. Based on this observation, the choice of the container will be a large vat or a terracotta pot which favors gas exchanges. Water reserve containers should be avoided because they keep the soil constantly moist, which is not very suitable for the needs of these plants.

Wooden boxes that can be dismantled are much more suitable because they make it easier to unpack the plants when it becomes necessary to change the pot.

Consider placing your container on wheels, it will be easier to move.

A suitable substrate

As we have seen, citrus plants need well-drained soil to avoid suffering. It will be necessary to provide a thick layer of clay balls at the bottom of the pot to facilitate the water flow and to avoid the asphyxiation of the roots which is always fatal. The substrate should be composed of one part acidic soil for one part good potting soil to which you will add two handfuls of compost and ground horn powder.

Planting citrus trees in pots

Choose a young subject without any black trace on the foliage. The foliage should be shiny and smooth. Also check for the presence of parasites on the back of the leaves before buying. The roots must not form a bun or escape from the pot as this would compromise the recovery.

In the spring, when all risk of frost has been eliminated, prepare the planting of your tree. To do this, soak the root ball for one hour in water at room temperature. Spread a bed of clay balls at the bottom of the pot and a layer of substrate. Place the root ball so that the neck of the plant is flush with the surface. Top up with the remaining substrate and pack the soil around the collar.

Water thoroughly.

Maintenance of potted citrus

Throughout the summer, your citrus trees can be installed in the garden or on the balcony to take the sun. Frequent watering is necessary because the soil dries out very quickly in these conditions. Remember to add a 'special citrus fertilizer' every two weeks during the growing season.

The pruning of the citrus fruits intervenes after the bloom. It consists in clearing the center of the plant to let air and light penetrate and to avoid the formation of pest nests and diseases to find a favorable ground for their propagation. It is also possible to pinch the new shoots on young plants to encourage a beautiful branching in early summer.

In autumn, bring in your citrus fruits before the first cold weather in a room that is not very heated but always free of frost and where the light will be maximum.

Wintering of potted plants

As winter approaches, the winterization of non-hardy potted plants on the balcony or on the terrace must be considered. It is advisable either to bring them inside or to take some precautions to allow them to spend the winter. We offer you some advice that should be adapted to your situation.

The non-hardy plants are plants which do not support the frost of the winter. Some of them can withstand small frosts but they will most likely perish with a frost of several days, especially since in pots the roots are less well protected, or even directly exposed because they are in contact with the container and therefore with the outside.

There are several categories of non-hardy plants. The least tolerant to the cold are tropical plants such as hibiscus or orchids that you should bring in first as soon as the temperature approaches ten degrees, between mid-September and mid-October depending on the weather. It is advisable to bring them in not too late to avoid too much change in conditions between your terrace or your garden and your interior. This shock could be harmful. You will bring in this type of plants in a bright room that does not go below 10 degrees. A veranda would be ideal.

Cacti do not appreciate the combination of autumn rains and cold weather which causes them to rot. Bring them in at the same time as your tropical plants and place them in a cool room like a garage with a light source if possible.

The last non-hardy plants to be brought in are Mediterranean plants such as oleanders, pelargoniums, palms or birds of paradise. Wait for the first frost to protect them, between mid-October and mid-November. Place your potted plants in a cool, airy place like a cellar or a garage. A little light will be ideal especially for the species with evergreen and clear foliage.

For the pots that you cannot bring inside, protect them from frost by moving them closer to the walls of the house or place them in a corner sheltered from cold winds. Wrap the pots with newspaper or bubble wrap and place your plant under a winter cover, not a plastic bag that will prevent the plant from breathing.

For all these plants, watering will be limited to the strict minimum to maintain a very light humidity, or even absent as for cacti. Remember to air and open your garage at the first beautiful days of spring. Mediterranean plants will be the first to come out as soon as the frost is over. Tropical plants will wait for better conditions to come out.

Wintering balcony geraniums

The pelargoniums of our balconies, often wrongly named geraniums, require very particular care if you wish to have the chance to see them blooming again the following spring. They are not very hardy, and wintering will be necessary for their survival in most of our regions.

At the end of October, when the days get shorter and the cold weather becomes more penetrating, clean your plants by doing a drastic pruning. Do not hesitate to cut back the stems, even if they are still flowering, up to 20 cm from the base of the plant for the ivy varieties. Keep only one third of the height of the stems of zonal pelargoniums and large-flowered species. Don't be afraid to do this: this pruning will make your plant all the more vigorous when it comes back. Moreover, it will be an opportunity for you to offer cuttings to the neighbors, which is always a pleasure!

At the same time, check your plants for pests and diseases. Cut off any damaged or diseased parts and burn them so that they do not contaminate the compost. Be careful, after this operation, disinfect your tools with alcohol so as not to spread the diseases, and if a plant is too sick to be sacrificed, soak its pot in bleached water and rinse it before using it again.

Once cleaned, install your pelargoniums in a cool but frost-free place: a garage, a well insulated garden shed, or better still a slightly heated veranda will do perfectly. Be careful though: the room must have at least one window so that your plants receive a minimum of light to survive, otherwise you will have to install artificial lighting.

Remove all the cups that could maintain a harmful humidity at the roots level and stop watering. Watering will only serve to keep the plant alive as it enters its vegetative resting period. One watering per month should be sufficient, but be sure that the foliage does not wilt. A lack of water is preferable to an excess during this period.

When the weather is fine and there is no risk of frost, you can gradually bring them out into the light, so as not to burn them. Once again, clean the yellowed or diseased parts and repot them in a special geranium potting soil mix already containing fertilizer. Remember to provide good drainage at the bottom of the pot and water after repotting to settle the soil and prevent air bubbles from forming.

Your pelargoniums will then be ready to start a new life for an ever more flowering spring!

Please note that ivy-leaved pelargoniums are often less resistant than zonal pelargoniums. More light will be beneficial to them.

Miniature gardens, an invitation to travel

A corner of the balcony, a table on the terrace, a sideboard in the living room, a window sill... A few square decimeters are enough to invite plants and miniature decorations in your home and create real mini-ecosystems where gardening talents and artistic sense are combined.

Imagine

Imagine a humid tropical landscape with lush vegetation, the semi-deserts of South Africa covered with succulents, the garrigue and its paths leading through low walls and olive trees, the mountain cliffs with alpine plants in the smallest crack.

Can you imagine booking your plane tickets? Yes. But you can also keep your slippers on, move to the lounge, on the bay window side. On its curved plateau, surrounded by ferns, selaginellas, the ficus is a bit dull: a tropical shower with a sprayer will be welcome. A few meters away, new climate, under the south-facing veranda, succulents are blooming in a miniature scree. The terrace will protect a Mediterranean space, on its rocky plateau, bordered by a low wall, an olive tree will offer its shade to a 2 cm long bench. A toothbrush will be enough to clean it. For the mountaineers, a small piece of garden, a corner of balcony, will welcome a lauze where will develop miniature pines, saxifrages, androsaces, sedum.

Miniature ecosystems

It is possible to create miniature gardens featuring plants and decorations to represent any type of landscape or ecosystem. A fundamental principle not to be missed: choose your climate, tropical, Mediterranean, alpine... Which will correspond respectively to the heated space of the house, the veranda or terrace well exposed, a shaded outdoor space or an alpine greenhouse.

Another fundamental principle: the choice of plants. Each one must be adapted to the chosen environment, a fern from the Amazonian forests will not withstand the rigors of European winters, and conversely an alpine saxifrage will not withstand the heat of our interiors...

Third fundamental principle: small plant will become big... It is essential to know the development of the chosen plants to maintain a harmonious balance in your landscape. An aloe vera will hardly have its place in a semi-arid garden of 20 cm in diameter...

Last principle: respect the fundamental needs of your ecosystem, i.e. water, temperature and luminosity which must correspond to the mutual living conditions of your plants.

An easy maintenance, generally

Easy... by the size of the tools. Small tweezers to clean plants, fine scissors to contain them, a sharp knife to cut the roots of unwanted guests, a 2-liter watering can, a sprayer, and a seat at garden height. Properly cared for, plants will continue to grow, more or less vigorously depending on the species. It's up to you to choose, to prune, to limit, to favor one or the other, to perpetuate the same balance, to move, to cut. In short, to make your garden live.

But everything can fail, and your tropical garden can turn into a deplorable mineral desert. Once you have chosen your location, near the living room window, far from the heating, and selected your plants, Ficus retusa, bromeliads, selaginellas, you can start watering. It must be copious, like a good tropical rain. In between, you will have to keep your substrate slightly humid, with a dry environment, regular sprays will be welcome. So for each environment, semi-arid indoor or outdoor, alpine, Mediterranean, the maintenance will have to meet the specific needs of your ecosystem.

An original creation

Once you have mastered the technical requirements, it's time to be creative. Composing a miniature garden is similar to designing a painting: strong points, vanishing lines, volumes. Foliage and flowering colors. All in three dimensions. And there is also a fourth dimension: time. The plants change with each season, blush in the cold, bloom one in the fall, the other in the spring. To create with the living by offering the conditions of a perennial growth is to open a new door, a journey, at hand.

The power of plants, the gardener and the imagination

By listening to his plants, the gardener learns continuously, and offers them the best growing conditions. They then take over, grow, bloom and reseed. The dialogue is constant. Grouped together in a miniature garden, the plants will also interact with each other, sometimes competing with each other, but also helping each other, cooperating. And to harmonize, with imagination, in a reduced but abundant space. 

Some plants:

• Tropical gardens : Ficus retusa, Ficus benjamina, Ficus pumila, Selaginella, ferns, ...
• Mediterranean gardens : Crassula sarcocaulis, Delosperma, Sedum, Sempervivum, Bergeranthus, ...
• Semi-desert gardens : Cacti, euphorbias, caudex plants, ...
• Alpine gardens : saxifrages, androsace, armeria, Cotula hispida, Pratia pedunculata, ...

Winterizing a potted petunia

In summer, the many varieties of petunias never cease to embellish terraces, balconies and beds. To prolong the pleasure from the following spring, shelter your perennial petunias during the bad season.

Prune shamelessly

Petunias and especially the drooping varieties of Surfinias tend to form long, branched stems that are not very aesthetic and do not flower as much over time. They will start again the following spring. This pruning will also allow the plant to regain its strength, you will be surprised by the beauty of the foliage and the number of flower buds present.

You can therefore prune all the stems to about ten centimeters from their base without regret. Take the opportunity to remove all the dead stems at their base with a small scissor. Place all this plant waste in the compost.

Clean the pot

With a small fork, scratch the surface of the substrate to collect all dead leaves and other plant debris. If the pot is made of clay, brush the sides with a stiff brush dipped in warm water and white vinegar to remove lime scale and moss that may hide pest eggs or larvae. To clean plastic pots, a sponge soaked in the same mixture will be sufficient.

Also clean the cup and let it dry.

The choice of the room

The chosen room should be slightly heated but frost-free because the petunia is not hardy, i.e. it does not resist to negative temperatures. A temperature between 10 and 14 °C will be ideal for wintering. If the room is not very bright, it is not very serious but it should be well ventilated.

Wintering petunias in pots

Before putting your petunia in the wintering room, make sure that the plant is free of parasites. You can prevent this by spraying the plant with nettle manure. If the plant has parasites, treat it and then quarantine it before bringing it in. Parasites tend to reproduce happily, well protected from their predators and the weather, so be extremely vigilant!

Once your petunia has been winterized in the shelter, only water when the soil really dries on the surface (about every 10 to 15 days). Never leave water in the cup, the plant is in dormancy, its growth is slowed down and it would risk to rot by excess of water. For the same reason, stop all fertilizing.

After wintering

When the frosts are no longer to be feared, repot your petunias in a rich substrate and add dice of slow release fertilizer. Take them out to the garden and gradually reintroduce them to full sun. Start watering them regularly, especially if it does not rain.

Winterizing citrus fruits in pots

Citrus fruits are rather fragile plants that can only be grown in the ground in regions where frost is not a problem. Everywhere else, it is recommended to grow them in pots in order to winter them in a frost-free area.

When to overwinter potted citrus?

After a beautiful season spent outdoors and in the sun, citrus trees have put on new leaves and sometimes flower buds that it would be a shame to see disappear under the first frosts. Depending on your region, it is advisable to bring in citrus fruits as early as September. In some regions of the South of France and in very sheltered gardens, you can wait until mid-October if the weather remains nice and warm. Generally speaking, as soon as the temperature drops below 10°C, it is better to bring them in. You will only take them out again when there is no risk of frost.

What operations should be carried out before overwintering citrus trees?

Before bringing in your citrus pots, check the foliage for diseases or parasites. To do this, look carefully at the back of each leaf where mites or mealy bugs can hide. Also inspect the top of the leaves to rule out the presence of fumaginia, which is often a companion of aphids.

If a presence is detected, treat the shrub before overwintering it because in an enclosed area, the risks of propagation are much greater.

Prune the dead branches if there are any and shorten the too long stems if you do not have much space in your premises.

Where to winterize citrus trees in pots?

The chosen room should be very bright and if possible well ventilated but without cold draughts. It must be frost-free. A veranda, a winter garden or a greenhouse will be perfect for this purpose. In the coldest regions, a heater should be installed to maintain the temperature at a minimum of 5°C.

How to care for overwintered citrus?

Water your plants only when the substrate has dried a few centimeters and never let water stagnate in the saucer. A watering every 10 to 15 days can be sufficient during this rest period, it will be necessary to adapt to the temperature of the room. In a heated greenhouse, a more consistent watering will be implemented.

Remember to air your premises often, especially in hot and sunny weather. If your citrus fruits are placed behind a glass, for example in a room of the house behind a bay window, think of turning them of 1/4 every 10 days to preserve a harmonious growth. Beware of the midday sun behind a south-facing window, which should be mitigated by blinds so as not to burn the foliage.

Forcing tuberous begonia

Already present on the balconies of our grandmothers, tuberous begonias are a sure value. To speed up the recovery process and obtain flowers early, it is necessary to give them a little treatment.

Precautions and preparation: the keys to success.

The tuberous begonia, as its name indicates it, have a tuber which constitutes the reserves of the plant. This one enters in dormancy during the cold season.

This begonia, native of South and Central America, is a cold one which does not support the too fresh temperatures for him under our latitudes. It is thus advisable to take some precautions and not to rush it to ensure the success of its culture.

The bulb must be wintered with the shelter of the frost and the dry one in order to preserve it in a perfect health. A soft restart will have to be implemented in spring, before being able to install it definitively in a pot in the shade and with the shelter of the great winds.

Afterwards, this easy plant will only require a limited maintenance and will bloom profusely for many months.

When and how to proceed?

It is a question of "waking up" the tuber in dormancy a little prematurely to obtain an early bloom.

• At the end of March/beginning of April, take a box and fill it with a very light mixture composed of half sand and half peat or potting soil. Add charcoal powder to limit the appearance of any cryptogamic diseases.
• Tamp the surface to smooth it out.
• Water the mixture so that it is moist but not completely soggy.
• Place the tuber, rounded side down, with the concave part from which the shoots should emerge facing the light.
• Bury only the rounded part so that only the upper side of the bulb emerges.
• Place the box in full light and warm.
• Water the substrate from time to time so that it never dries out completely.
• As soon as the first shoots appear, move the box to a cooler but still very bright place. The temperature should be around 15°C.
• When all risk of frost is eliminated, around mid-May, gently remove the tuber with its root ball and install it in its final pot filled with good compost.

Next steps

Once well installed in its container, place your begonia in half-shade, or in the shade in the warmest regions, and water it regularly but without excess. Cut off the faded flowers as you go along and add some liquid organic fertilizer once every ten days to the watering water to see it bloom for a long time.

As soon as the first frosts arrive, bring your pot in a frost-free place and wait for the leaves to wither completely to winterize the tuber in a dry place.

Flowering a balcony

A balcony in the city can easily be transformed into a little plant paradise: from the abundant jungle to the refined Zen style, you must take into account a few major parameters in order to obtain an optimal result with a minimum of worries and maintenance.

Exposure

The exposure of your balcony is a major factor to take into account. The choice of plants will depend on it. Indeed, a balcony facing south that will receive full sunlight throughout the day will benefit from conditions particularly suited to heat-loving plants such as Mediterranean plants and cacti. A shaded, north-facing balcony will welcome plants that like coolness.

Space

The lack of space should not scare you: by exploiting the verticality with trellises and suspensions, you will gain space.

Maintenance

In the city, time is often limited and even a small garden on a balcony can require long hours of maintenance. If your time is limited, choose resistant plants that require little maintenance.

Choosing plants and structuring the space

Start by dressing the walls to set the scene: with its foot in the shade, a clematis will illuminate a wall with its starry, multi-colored bloom.

Honeysuckles like sun or half-shade depending on the species. They will quickly colonize the trellises and perfume the balcony with their sweet scent. Similarly, on well-exposed balconies receiving a few hours of sunlight a day, a star jasmine will be perfect and will spread its powerful fragrance to the interior of the apartment. Fans of foliage will install a Virginia creeper that will blaze with flamboyant colors in the fall or a variegated ivy that will cover the wall all year long.

English baskets and other hanging baskets also allow you to exploit the smallest vertical corner of the balcony. Install Violas which, from October onwards, will develop cascades of small, brightly colored flowers until the first hot days of summer. Once they have finished flowering, replace them with Surfinias associated with white Lobelias or Ivy-leaved Geraniums in the sun, and with drooping Begonias and other Fuschias for shady areas. These plants will also work well in window boxes and planters properly attached to the balcony railing.

Make the most of corners by installing tall rectangular planters: black bamboo will do wonders there. Another possibility is to combine dwarf roses in the foreground with gladioli in the background, although the colors should match!

On a small table, recreate a small country corner in an old pewter basin. Daffodil and muscari bulbs can be placed next to perennials or grasses. If your balcony is in full sun, create a collection of cacti: installed individually in zinc planters, they will give a graphic touch to an already modern terrace.

Flowers for hanging baskets

Very popular with our English friends, hanging baskets and other hanging pots frame entrances or decorate the corners of balconies with brio. This 'So British' trend has crossed the Channel to enhance our exteriors. Here is a selection of some ideal hanging plants.

Which plants for my hanging baskets?

The plants chosen to create hanging baskets must have particular characteristics.

First of all, most of them must have a drooping habit, especially if your hanging baskets are hung very high.

This type of arrangement occupies the space by using the verticality, it is necessary to take advantage of it, especially if you install only short plants you will have difficulty seeing them.

A suspension can contain one or more species of plants. Always make sure that their cultural needs are very close to ensure a beautiful success.

In your compositions, play with the foliage to give volume, texture and color. Plectranthus, mints or variegated ivy will add a certain charm to your hanging baskets.

Hanging baskets in all seasons

It is possible to stagger the blooms and vary the decorations from spring to late fall in your hanging baskets.

At the very beginning of spring, you can without worry consider planting pansies and violas in your pots, they resist well to the cold, as well as primroses or daisies that you will reserve for the middle of the compositions, the falling plants being planted on the sides to obtain a 'cascade' effect.

The small forget-me-nots bring a soft bluish tint which marries wonderfully with the pastel tones of the English carnations, you can also consider some narcissus in the center to create a contrast of colors and height.

If your hanging baskets are not too high up, a few hyacinth bulbs will distill their bewitching perfume! You can associate them with low wall bellflowers or saxifrage.

In summer, the hanging baskets are more likely to be adorned with purple scaevolas, which blend perfectly with the bright yellow of bidens or the pure white of lobelias. While we're on the subject of lobelias, the deep blue varieties will serve as the perfect backdrop for orange carnations planted in the center of the arrangement to give it height and color.

How can we talk about summer hanging baskets without mentioning ivy pelargoniums or surfinias! Very greedy in nutrients and taking a lot of space in the pot, it is preferable to plant them alone.

Waterfall verbenas with their shimmering colors are also part of the summer must-haves, you will find them in a wide range of colors that will satisfy the most jaded of gardeners.

For shade, there's nothing like the timeless drooping fuchsias, with their large bells of incredible beauty. Begonias pendula or cascade will also do the trick, as well as double impatiens with drooping habit.

To keep your hanging baskets looking beautiful in the fall, remember to remove wilted flowers throughout the season and fertilize regularly. You can also drastically prune the surfinias in August so that they start to grow again.

Replace the plants at the end of their blooming period with heathers or small varieties of chrysanthemums with a drooping habit and rely on evergreen, hardy and variegated foliage such as that of certain ivy to prolong the decor.

Herbs on the balcony

You don't have to have a vegetable garden to grow herbs! A well-exposed balcony is just as suitable. Instructions for use...

Some important notions

Aromatic plants that are delicious with cooked dishes or prepared as herbal teas are perfectly suited to growing in pots or planters on a balcony. However, it is necessary to respect some simple parameters:

For an assured success choose your plants in cups, already well developed. The roots should not protrude too much from the pot and should not form a bun in the pot, a sign of suffering that would make it difficult to recover.

Check the foliage carefully: it should be healthy, vigorous, without suspicious spots or traces of mold.

The plants you choose should be suited to the exposure of your balcony. Thus, for a balcony exposed to the shade or half-shade, prefer to plant the various varieties of mint, parsley or coriander that will withstand these growing conditions.

In the sun, oregano, rosemary, sage, basil, lemon balm but also thyme of various varieties will grow without worry.

Most of these plants appreciate a sunny exposure and a well-drained substrate.

How do I plant herbs on my balcony?

The choice of container is important. Always choose a large and deep enough container so that the roots can develop well and so that you can add a bed of gravel or clay balls at the bottom to ensure good drainage, which is essential for growing herbs.

The pot should have a hole in the bottom to allow for proper drainage of watering, this will prevent the plants from rotting by asphyxiation.

Aromatic plants require a light substrate ideally composed of a part of good potting soil, a part of compost and a part of river sand.

In individual pots or window boxes, play with colors, textures and mix foliage to create an enchanting decor. Dare to be original by planting unusual cultivars such as variegated thyme, purple basil or unusual mints!

Finally, if you choose to install several plants in a common planter, they should have the same sun and watering needs.

Easy maintenance

Place your plants according to their needs, in semi-shade or sun. Keep in mind that water evaporates faster in a pot than in the ground and water your plants often in summer and in hot, windy and dry weather. However, allow the mixture to dry to 2/3 between waterings and empty the cups.

Pruning the flowers will keep the plants healthy and prevent them from 'tiring' to produce seeds. To keep the plant compact and bushy, don't hesitate to prune the foliage if possible above a leaf bud. Your aromatics will take off again!

Flowering shrubs on the balcony

Adopt flowering shrubs on your balcony, some of which are perfectly at home there and will delight you with their blooms.

Garden hibiscus (Hibiscus syriacus)

Driven on stems, the hibiscus syriacus with its natural clumpy habit becomes a very original miniature tree perfectly adapted to life on a terrace or a balcony. You can buy it already formed or clear a trunk yourself by repeated pruning (it can withstand severe pruning without flinching!). The large single or double satin flowers are renewed all summer long.

Keys to success: in the sun, rose-type substrate lightened with a little coarse sand. Regular watering in summer, fertilizer every 5-6 times. Short pruning at the end of winter. Re-pot every year if possible. Very hardy.

Indian lilac (Lagerstroemia indica)

Driven on stems, the Indian lilac becomes a superb small tree. A breathtaking summer bloom with shimmering colors. A deciduous foliage taking beautiful colors in autumn (ochre, copper and purple....). A very decorative cinnamon-colored bark which peels off nicely in adult subjects... The Indian lilac is one of the rising stars of the garden. Many varieties are much more resistant to the cold than you might think!

Keys to success: deep pot (vigorous roots), well-drained substrate, sun, warmth but high humidity, pruning at the end of winter, copious and frequent watering in summer, repotting every 2-3 years. Moderate hardiness (winter protection).

The panicled hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata)

This unusual panicled hydrangea offers an impressive summer bloom with its huge panicles of creamy white flowers that fade to very decorative "old rose" colors. Mostly bushy, this hydrangea can also form a real small tree when pruned on a single stem.

Keys to success: well-drained, fertile and fresh substrate. Pruning possible at the end of winter (flowers on the wood of the year). Monthly fertilization from May to August. Re-potting every 3 years.

Other possible choices: flowering apple trees (Malus) and ornamental prunus (Prunus). 

Staging idea

Host a charming duo of an Indian lilac and a Hibiscus syriacus, both trained on stems. Choose the double versions of the latter, its crumpled and silky flowers are a perfect match for those of the Lagerstroemia. Dare to be colorful by offering them glazed pots with sparkling colors. The sun allows for all kinds of daring!

Aerate the whole in a "bouquet spirit" with light flowers and foliage (mugwort, 'Diamond Frost' euphorbia, gaura, grasses.). A star jasmine will bring a touch of green and perfume essential to the beautiful season.

Trees for my south-facing balcony

It looks like the South...

Oleander (Nerium oleander)

The oleander blooms throughout the summer season in a wide range of colors from pure white to dark red, through a whole range of pinks, yellows and oranges. The flowers are single, semi-double or double depending on the variety chosen. There are cultivars with small development, appreciable in cold climate during the wintering out of frost.

Keys to success: fertile substrate (rose soil or half soil and garden soil), annual resurfacing and repotting every 3 years. Pruning at the end of winter. Regular, copious watering (2 to 3 times a week). Bring in before the first frost.

The olive tree (Olea europea)

The good behavior of the olive tree in a pot justifies the craze of city dwellers for this beautiful Mediterranean tree. In the trade, it can be found trained on a more or less high stem (quarter, half). Choose varieties that are resistant to cold and disease, such as 'Anglandau'. The latter is self-fertile: you can even have olives if the winter is mild!

Keys to success: pot almost as wide as the tree's branch, well-drained substrate (Mediterranean type plants). Water weekly in summer. In winter, avoid waterlogging the soil, especially if it freezes. In cold climates, overwinter out of the freezer (in a lighted, unheated room, not in the house!). Re-pot every 3-4 years.

The hemp palm (Trachycarpus fortunei)

This Chinese palm does well in a container. It keeps modest proportions compatible with balcony life while maintaining a majestic silhouette. Its large, pleated, evergreen fans are topped by a thin, cylindrical trunk.

Keys to success: container twice the size of the root ball, fertile and well-drained substrate. Spare it from cold drafts, mulch generously in autumn and wrap the pot with a winter veil if it freezes for a long time. Re-pot every 3-4 years.

Eucalyptus gunnii

The young foliage of Eucalyptus gunnii is evergreen and particularly decorative, making it a perfect backdrop for all the flowers on the balcony. The round leaves are a beautiful bluish-green with silver reflections and become longer as they age.

Keys to success: a large pot (50 cm minimum), a substrate such as rose soil + 1/3 coarse sand, copious watering in summer to keep the root ball fresh. Protect from cold drafts and winter frosts (winter cover). Re-pot every 3-4 years.

Staging ideas

Around an olive tree that is already well formed in a beautiful terra cotta pot, create a decor with southern accents by welcoming other warm weather enthusiasts. Agave, cordyline or purple phormium can bring a graphic and exotic note. The generous and sparkling bloom of an oleander or a lantana will bring color to the scene all summer long. You may also prefer a softer Provencal version with two or three pots of lavender and a Mauritania bindweed.

Beautiful pelargoniums all summer long

We often admire beautiful pots of flowering pelargoniums on balconies and terraces but it is sometimes difficult to reproduce the same result at home. Follow our tips and you will get a result beyond your expectations!

The right exposure

Pelargoniums like warmth and a very sunny exposure. Place your pots in full sun to obtain a maximum bloom. In the south, Pelargoniums can tolerate a few hours of shade during the hottest hours of the day.

Don't forget that these plants are not hardy, at the beginning of the season protect them from night frost with a winter veil and in case of a big cold snap, bring them in under cover.

The container

The container should be large enough to accommodate the plant. It should have a hole in the bottom so that the water drains well and does not stagnate at the roots, which Pelargoniums fear. For the same reason, avoid containers with water reserves that retain too much moisture. Then you will just have to choose the material: terracotta, resin or wood, it doesn't matter!

The substrate

Pelargoniums are greedy. The substrate must be fertile. Mix a good commercial potting soil and compost. Add a few handfuls of crushed horn. Don't forget to provide a drainage bed at the bottom of the pot. It can be made of clay balls, gravel or even pottery shards.

Very regular watering

Leaves that turn brown or wilt are a sign of lack of water. To avoid this phenomenon, water your pelargoniums very regularly so that the soil never dries out completely between two waterings. Never leave water in the cups.

From May to September, add a special geranium fertilizer every 10 days after a copious watering in order to avoid burning the roots.

A necessary maintenance

To keep your pots looking good, remove yellowed or dried leaves. Cut off diseased branches and burn them. Don't forget to prune the faded flowers to avoid the exhaustion of the plant and encourage the birth of new flower buds.

To keep your plant compact and induce its branching, you can pinch the ends of the stems from time to time, but you will have to wait a little to see it bloom.

Growing a rose in a pot

If you are not fortunate enough to have a garden, there is nothing to stop you from growing a potted rose on your terrace or balcony. With proper care and by respecting simple parameters, you will soon be able to fully enjoy the beauty of these exceptional flowers and their legendary fragrance.

Choosing the right rosebush

Everything will depend on the space you can give to your plant and therefore on the size of the pot. The majority of modern roses accept this method of cultivation, simply avoid planting a climbing rose with a large growth.

For small spaces, the choice will be miniature roses or ground cover roses which have a lesser development.

The cultivation of a bush rose is quite feasible if you install it in a deep enough pot.

How to plant a rose in a pot?

• Choose a beautiful subject in a container, so you can plant it all year round. For bare root or root ball roses, you will have to wait until November.
• Choose a pot at least 40 cm deep, preferably in clay to ensure better oxygenation of the roots.
• Spread a 5 cm layer of clay balls at the bottom of the pot after covering the drain hole with a pebble or a shard.
• Fill 1/3 of the pot with good commercial potting soil containing a slow release fertilizer.
• Place the rosebush in the pot after soaking its roots in a bucket of water at room temperature.
• Bare-root plants should be pruned and pruned before planting.
• Calculate the planting height so that the grafting point of the rose is flush with the surface of the pot.
• Complete with potting soil.
• Never bury the grafting point.
• Pack, water, and adjust the height of the potting soil.
• Spread a mulch of pine bark on the surface of the soil.
• Place your rosebush in a very sunny place.

Maintenance tips

A rosebush in a pot dries out much more quickly than a rosebush in the ground. Remember to water it often without letting water stagnate in the cup at the risk of seeing the roots suffocate.

Avoid watering the foliage to limit the appearance of cryptogamic diseases.

In the spring, make regular applications of "special rose" fertilizer to support the flowering.

Cut off the faded flowers above a new eye in the axil of the first leaf, this will allow to obtain new shoots and thus new flowers.

Treat with Bordeaux mixture to avoid the appearance of diseases.

Monitor the appearance of aphids and treat with nettle manure.

Prune in February/March.

Growing an oleander in a pot

The oleander is an ornamental shrub that blooms for nearly 6 months if the growing conditions are suitable. Frileux, it will have to be wintered in the less privileged regions, this is why a culture in container is appropriate to him well.

Oleander Who are you?

The oleander (Nerium oleander) is a shrub that grows naturally near waterways that dry up in summer from the eastern Mediterranean basin to China. That's why it needs more water than the sellers would have us believe.

White, pink, red, yellow, peach, single or very double flowers, you will be spoiled for choice!

Be careful, all parts of the plant are very toxic if ingested.

How to plant the oleander in a pot?

The laurel is a shrub with strong development. Prefer to install it in a large container where it will have the space to develop well.

• Choose a large enough container with a hole in the bottom;
• Pour a layer of clay balls or gravel equivalent to 20% of the volume of the pot;
• Make a mixture of potting soil, garden soil and compost, add a shovelful of river sand;
• Pour a layer of this mixture into the pot;
• Place your laurel so that its collar is flush with the top of the pot;
• Fill in the gaps around the plant, centering it well;
• Pack around the foot;
• Water.

How to care for a bay tree in a pot?

Place your oleander in a sunny location to ensure maximum flowering. Potted plants can be overwintered in a greenhouse or a veranda if you live in a region where frost is common. Bring your laurel inside as soon as the first frosts arrive in autumn, you can take it out again once the risk of frost is over.

Watering should be regular in summer, especially in hot and dry weather. One or two waterings may be necessary per week. Caution: never let water stagnate in the saucer. Complete the watering by adding fertilizer for flowering plants every 15 days during the growing season.

In winter, give your laurel a rest period by placing it in full light in a relatively cool room (about 10°C). You will then only water it every 15 days.

Pruning the oleander is not mandatory. This shrub produces its flowers on the wood of the previous year, pruning them would certainly allow to obtain a fuller and bushier plant but would compromise the blooming. However, if you must prune it to save space in the winter storage room, prune it in the fall, just after flowering. Clear the center of the plant by cutting off the branches that cross or that are dead. Remove some stems at the base around the plant if necessary to reduce the width. As for the height, try to keep it so that you can enjoy the flowering the following year.

Growing a lemon tree in a pot

For climatic reasons the cultivation of the lemon tree in open ground is sometimes compromised. Fortunately it is possible to grow it in a pot.

A plant not very hardy

Although the lemon tree is given to support temperatures up to -7°C, it remains very fragile and can be cultivated in the open ground only in the zone known as "the orange tree". Everywhere else, it is preferable to grow it in pots in order to winter it out of the frost during the cold season.

Some parameters must be taken into account to ensure a good success and perhaps taste its acidulous fruits.

Planting the lemon tree in a pot

The lemon tree hates to have its roots constantly soggy so the substrate dedicated to it should be well draining.

• Choose a large container or a pot preferably in terra cotta with holes or in wood to let the air circulate freely. The container should have a hole in the bottom to ensure good water drainage.
• Place a thick layer of gravel or clay balls equivalent to about 20% of the volume of the pot at the bottom.
• Make up a mixture of good potting soil, compost and medium-grained river sand.
• Spread a layer of this mixture on the bottom of the pot and place your lemon tree in it so that the grafting point protrudes slightly from the surface of the pot because it should never be buried.
• Fill in the empty spaces with the mixture and pack around the plant.
• Water copiously to eliminate any air bubbles in the soil.
• If necessary, add more mixture to the surface.

Maintenance of the lemon tree in pot

Often placed on a terrace during the summer, the lemon tree is subject to strong evaporation. Like all citrus trees, it needs very regular watering during this season to grow optimally. The mixture should never dry out completely between two waterings in summer, but be careful not to leave any stagnant water in the cup! Add "special citrus" fertilizer once a month to ensure good fruiting.

From autumn onwards, the lemon tree will be wintered in a very bright and frost-free location. The ideal temperature should be between 8 and 12°C. The watering will be more spaced and it will be possible to let the soil dry between two of them.

After the harvest, it will be possible to prune the lemon tree. Cut the dead branches at their base and remove the one that crosses inside the frame to let in a maximum of light. In spring, pinch off the ends of branches to keep a compact habit and ensure good branching.

Growing basil in a pot

Aromatic plant queen of the summer, the basil is not only cultivated in the vegetable garden. On a balcony or a terrace, it will find its place and will be thus within reach to decorate your salads or your cooked dishes.

When to sow basil in a pot ?

The sowing of basil can be carried out in the shelter in a premature way in mini heated greenhouse as of March. For direct sowing in pots on the balcony, wait until the temperatures have stabilized and there is no risk of frost. From then on, you can sow it until July to stagger the harvest.

Which varieties to sow?

In the kitchen, the two star varieties are 'Grand Vert' used in salads to accompany the famous mozzarella tomato or to make the pistou soup so dear to the heart of the Provençal people, and 'Fin vert' with its small leaves known for their even stronger flavor than the previous variety.

For its compact habit, ideal for the culture in pot, 'Dolly' produces very aromatic leaves, or still 'Finissimo Verde' which forms a compact ball of small very scented leaves. Those who like originality should consider 'Purple Opal' or 'Purpurascens', varieties with purple leaves that always make an impression, or 'Cinnamon' basil with a cinnamon flavor.

How to sow basil in a pot?

• Prepare a mixture of 2/3 potting soil to 1/3 river sand.
• Choose a 15 cm diameter terracotta pot and place a pebble over the hole at the bottom of the pot to prevent the substrate from escaping.
• Fill the pot with the mixture to within 1 cm of the top edge.
• Pack well and water to keep the substrate moist.
• Sow your seeds half a centimeter apart and cover them with a thin layer of mixture.
• Water lightly and place a plastic film or a glass plate on the pot to create a greenhouse effect that will help germination.
• As soon as the seedlings appear, remove the protection and continue watering very often.

How to grow basil in a pot?

Basil needs a lot of sun to bloom, place the pot in a warm and sunny area. In these conditions, it will quickly get thirsty, so don't forget to water it very often so that the substrate never dries out completely between two waterings.

Cut the end of the stems regularly to induce the branching of the plant but also to prevent it from flowering, which would shorten its life.

Scratch a little ground horn every month at the base of your basil to support its growth.

Never let water stagnate at the bottom of the bowl.

Growing vines in pots

If you are not lucky enough to have a plot of land or even a small garden, do not give up the idea of growing a vine because it will grow very well in a pot on the balcony or terrace.

Characteristics of the vine

The grapevine (Vitis vinifera) is a vigorous climber that can, over the years, form an impressive vine. The pot and the location should be chosen according to these criteria.

Self-fertile, you will not need to install several plants to see it bear fruit. Only a very sunny and warm location will be absolutely necessary.

Choice of the location

As we have seen, the balcony or terrace should be well exposed and receive several hours of full sun per day. The vine climbs quickly and needs a support. On a terrace, an arbour or a trellis will do the trick. On a balcony, you can use the railing to make it run all along or install it along a wall by providing a solid trellis or wires stretched horizontally so that it clings to it with its tendrils.

Choice of the pot

The pot should be deep enough to allow the roots to sink into the substrate, but also to compensate for the plant's highly developed aerial part and thus keep it well balanced.

A container or a planter of 60 cm deep minimum will be perfect to cultivate your vine. Whatever the container, it should of course be pierced at the bottom, because the vine hates to have its roots constantly soggy, which could cause the appearance of various diseases.

Plantation of the vine in pot

• Choose a variety adapted to the climatic conditions of your balcony and if possible resistant to the main diseases.
• Provide a good drainage layer at the bottom of the pot (about 20% of the volume) with gravel or clay balls. Prepare a mixture of slightly clayey garden soil, potting soil and compost. Spread a layer of the mixture over the drainage bed.
• Place the vine in the center of the container and adjust its height so that only the roots remain well buried.
• Start to fix the stems on their support, they will then climb by themselves.
• Pack the substrate and water.

The culture of the vine in pot

Once installed in a sunny place, the vine will need little care, however watering should be a little more frequent than in the ground but it will support the drought for a short period. Train the new shoots as they appear and prune in winter.

Growing plants in pots

Not everyone is lucky enough to have a garden. Potted plants allow you to bring nature into your home, but also to extend the pleasure on a balcony or even a terrace. In pots, plants are far from their natural growing conditions, the difficulty being to recreate them and to ensure the necessary contributions to their survival

A reasoned choice

The plant coveted in the garden center must correspond to the conditions of luminosity, heat and hygrometry of its future location. This way you will have more chances on your side for the success of its culture in pot. For example, it is useless to grow cacti in a dark and cool apartment or fuchsias in full sun on a south-facing terrace. The choice of the plant is thus crucial for the future success.

A suitable substrate

Growing in a pot means knowing the exact needs of each plant in order to choose the right substrate. A plant installed in the garden will have a huge amount of soil at its disposal, it can spread its roots as it pleases, deep or on the surface to find the necessary nutrients. This is not the case for our potted subject, which will depend on the quantity and quality of the substrate offered in a more or less narrow container. The key word is always the same: adaptation to the needs!

Always ask about the needs of the plant and compose its substrate according to its needs: very light by adding sand, very fertile based on potting soil and organic amendments, neutral, acid, limestone ... The same goes for the container: plants with taproots will need a very deep pot, while those with weak development will be satisfied with a half pot.

Controlled watering

Potted plants must always be watered more than the same species in the ground. Evaporation is much more important under these growing conditions, especially in the case of potted plants installed on a terrace sheltered from rainfall but exposed to full sun and drying winds. The roots are very quickly dry and surrounded by a container that heats up quickly, without regular watering the catastrophe will happen very quickly.

In apartments, watering should also be adapted. First of all to the cultivated variety, but also to the exposure and the heating method. The dry air emitted by electric heaters is harmful to most of the so-called "green" plants, which are often tropical plants that appreciate a high level of humidity. To compensate for the lack of humidity, you can install the greediest plants on large plates filled with clay balls that are kept constantly moist and baste their foliage twice a week. Be careful, however, never to leave stagnant water in the saucers after watering, as this could cause your plant to rot very quickly due to asphyxiation of the roots.

A regular supply of nutrients

As we have seen, potted plants quickly exhaust the few reserves present in the soil. To make up for this lack, there is nothing like a regular addition of adapted fertilizer during the growth period. For green plants, a fertilizer rich in nitrogen (N) is preferable, while for flowering plants the dose of potassium (K) and phosphorus (P) is more important. Always look at the N-P-K ratio on the package.

Create a beautiful spring planter

With the return of the warm weather, the desire to put flowers on your balcony is growing. Here are a few tips to create a harmonious and long-lasting planter that will keep you happy all season long!

Choosing plants

Faced with the abundant stalls of garden centers or nurseries, it is sometimes difficult to decide.

To make sure you don't make a mistake, find out the needs of the plants you want and check that they are well suited to the exposure of your balcony.

To create a composition, don't forget that the plants you choose must have roughly the same cultural needs to be grown in the same planter. So, avoid mixing plants that appreciate shade and a humid substrate with cacti for example, the result might be aesthetically pleasing but your planter would not last very long!

Colors and shapes

Always try to create harmonious compositions by using plants whose shapes and colors match, for this, consult the color wheel to get inspiration. You can also link flowering plants with ornamental foliage such as Dichondra 'Silver Falls' with its drooping habit and soft silver color that will soften a combination of red petunias and yellow coreopsis for example.

For a full sun exposure, the combination of white verbena forming a round cousin of flowers and a 'Black Tone' ipomea with dark purple drooping foliage will also be a good idea. You can also combine petunias and surfinias because there are many varieties, with single or double flowers and in all colors. This way, you can create a composition full of pep in red, yellow or orange shades, or a romantic garden in pinks and blues.

In the shade, think of drooping fuchsias and blue lobelias, which always make an impact when combined. The latter, in white, will go perfectly with purple or bright red New Guinea impatiens. Think of coleus, with their ever-surprising foliage, sometimes tricolored, and which give height to the background of the decor. Also include Indian mint in your compositions for its long cascades of fragrant leaves. Begonias also appreciate half-shaded exposures, just like the bacopas with which they can be associated. Thus a very double pink begonia 'Pendula' will do wonderfully with a bacopa with a soft lilac tint, add a white lobelia for its vaporous structure and you're done!

Choosing a container

Choose a nice size planter if you want to create an abundant composition. If the container is too small, the root system will gradually colonize the substrate, which will dry out too quickly and will be much less fertile. The plants will not be able to develop properly. It is therefore better to plan large!

The substrate

Choose a substrate adapted to the plants you want to grow. For flowering plants, choose a good potting soil containing slow-release fertilizer balls, which will nourish them as needed. However, do not forget to add fertilizer regularly after one month of cultivation, because nutrients are quickly depleted in pots.

Create beautiful planters

From mid-May, the risk of frost is over, garden centers offer you a vast choice of plants that allow you to create compositions with perennials, annuals, foliage plants, mixtures of colors and textures, flower shapes, plant origins.

Be creative! But before you start, here are a few tips to help you create beautiful planters of about 50 centimeters:

Choose a quality potting soil by asking for advice at your point of purchase.

Incorporate a slow-release fertilizer into the potting soil that will provide "food" for your plants all season long and make maintenance easier.

Explore the different types of planters available to you: enamel, plastic, terra cotta, zinc or, why not, wood. Try out the plants you have chosen in the planter before planting, to make sure your choices are right.

Place your plants in two rows, the first row being the place of choice for hanging plants and the second row being recommended for upright plants. This way, you have a front and a back row, and your planter becomes a 600 square centimeter mini-mass!

Always think of a plant with foliage, which highlights the flowering plants and gives more lightness to the association: Festucaglauca, Plectranthus, Helichrysumitalicum, Carexbuchananii, variegated mint, Helichrysum microphylla.

A touch of white is essential for very bright colors or too dark, it softens the whole and brings clarity.

Choose carefully the plants you associate: avoid associating a plant with a very strong development with a plant with a small development, otherwise the first one will take over the second one and you will obtain an unbalanced association. Ask your horticulturist or the department manager of the garden center for advice.

Think about the evolutionary side of the planter, it is not necessary to have all the plants flowering at the same time. Play on the early season to be able to discover other flowers during the season.

How to winterize an osteospermum in a pot ?

Originally from South Africa, the Cape Daisy is not a hardy plant, it can only stay in the garden in winter in regions where frost does not occur. Everywhere else it is advisable to grow it in a pot in order to winter it in a sheltered place to preserve it from one year to another.

A good cleaning

Everything starts with a good cleaning. Your plant has just spent a season in the garden blooming abundantly and offering a breathtaking spectacle under the sun. Because the flowers of the Dimorphoteca (another name for the Cape Daisy), only open in the sun, which is one of their particularities.

In autumn, it is time to cut off all the faded flowers but also to remove the dried or yellowed leaves. Clear the center by cutting off any stunted or criss-crossing stems and then prune the plant along the contour of the pot, which will save you space when storing.

As for the height of pruning, cut at about 15 cm from the base without worrying, your plant will branch out more beautifully the following spring.

Now, take care of the soil by removing all the plant residues present on its surface. Take advantage of this to pull out any unwanted weeds that may have invaded the plant to limit competition for water and nutrients with your plant during its wintering.

Then check the general health of the plant, even if the osteospermum is rarely visited by parasites. However, spray nettle manure as a preventive and natural insecticide. If you find traces of diseases or parasites, remove as many affected parts as possible, treat with plant purines and quarantine the plant, as it would soon contaminate all the other overwintered plants. Indeed, confined in a room, and even more so if it is heated, the plants have a hard time being protected by the natural predators of their parasites present outside. The heat provides a favorable ground for the development of dormant larvae: beware!

Once the cleaning of the plant is done, let's go to the pot which can also shelter some snails or slugs hidden on the shady side or under the pot. Use a sponge with black soap and warm water on the outside of the pot. This will remove moss and tiny parasite larvae and eggs that may be hiding there.

Wintering osteospermum in a room

Choose a frost-free room to overwinter the Cape Daisy. If it is cold (not less than 5°C), it will endure it as long as it does not freeze and the substrate remains almost dry.

It is therefore unnecessary to water it and even less to bring fertilizer to it.

If you winter it in a greenhouse or heated veranda, water once every 10 to 15 days when the substrate starts to dry completely. Never leave water in the cup during wintering.

In the spring, when all risk of frost has been eliminated, bring your plant out again and gradually get it used to full sun. You will be able to water it again normally and to make a good contribution of dried blood and powder of crushed horn to see it starting again and blooming abundantly.

Taking good care of geraniums

Geraniums are the kings of the balcony. Let's see how to take care of them.

To take care of these plants, let's start by making an important distinction: in everyday language, the name "geraniums" often refers to plants that actually belong to the Pelargonium genus. Used on balconies in pots or window boxes, they are not very hardy and need to be kept frost-free during the winter.

Geraniums are perennial plants, their aerial part fades and disappears in winter; most of the real geraniums resist to -15°C, they are hardy, solid, very easy to maintain and allow the creation of imposing massifs over the years.

These two very distinct species belong to the Geraniaceae family. 

Pelargoniums

They are the kings of balconies: used in window boxes, the ivy varieties with beautifully cut foliage offer cascades of flowers that are constantly renewed throughout the summer. The zonal pelargoniums will be used in pots for their upright habit and their wide and rounded foliage often marked with a very characteristic dark zone. Many hybrids with white, cream, pink or yellow variegated foliage will bring a touch of originality to your pots. Fragrance lovers will not be left out thanks to the varieties with fragrant foliage that can be crumpled to give off surprising notes of mint, lemon grass, pine or even rose. Pelargoniums with large flowers are more fragile but nevertheless spectacular, forming magnificent bushy plants especially adapted to the culture in jars.

The growing conditions for Pelargoniums differ little: the soil must be very rich and well drained to avoid water stagnation at the roots which would rot the plant. A mixture of good potting soil enriched with fertilizing materials and light sand will suit them perfectly. The exposure should be very sunny and warm in a well ventilated space. The secret to obtain an abundant bloom lies in a very regular contribution of "special geranium" fertilizer (once a week) on a wet substrate so as not to burn the roots. The soil should only dry on the surface between two waterings and the faded flowers as well as the damaged leaves should be removed progressively.

You can easily take cuttings from your Pelargoniums in the spring by taking 10 cm long stems and rooting them in the shade in a mixture of sand and potting soil in equal parts. Never let this mixture dry.

As soon as the first cold weather arrives, put them in a ventilated and not very heated room, protected from frost. Reduce the watering to induce a resting period, and take them out only when the weather is fine and there is no risk of frost.

Geraniums

Geraniums are excellent bedding plants, and they thrive at the foot of shrubs, which provide them with soft, subdued light, good air humidity and the temperate temperatures they need. Plant them in rich soil to which you have added a nice amount of Brown Gold® at planting time. The soil should not dry out in summer, but should never be soggy. Contrary to pelargoniums, geraniums do not require any particular care and can even become invasive because they reseed themselves abundantly. Your only work will be to cut the faded foliage in early spring to allow the new shoots to develop well.

Feeding potted plants well

Plants grown in pots quickly use up the reserves that the substrate can offer them. This results in deficiencies and the plants are more prone to diseases and parasites. To avoid these problems, it is important to know how to feed them well.

A substrate always at the top

The root system of the plant lives in a restricted substrate when it is cultivated in pot. Contrary to a plant in the ground which can 'send' its roots deeper or spread them out at will, a potted plant can quickly be in pain and lacking in nutrients.

To overcome this problem, you must first make sure that the chosen substrate is of very good quality and corresponds to the real needs of the plant.

After a while, despite everything, the roots end up occupying the whole pot, it is then time to repot in a larger container, ideally in early spring. When repotting, add slow-release fertilizer balls to the substrate, or even crushed horn to facilitate the restart.

If the pot is too heavy or too large, you can consider a topdressing with good potting soil and compost to feed your plant.

Natural fertilizers

Throughout its growth, the plant needs to be accompanied. Natural amendments such as compost, coffee grounds or tea leaves will bring nutrients to your plants.

Purins are also very effective, especially nettle purin which really boosts vegetation.

Keep also the water of cooking of your vegetables which abounds in nutrients for your plants.

Finally, think of organic fertilizers to scratch every two months during the growth period, such as ground horn powder or dried blood, which work wonders without ever risking burning the roots or weakening your plants.

Chemical fertilizers

Chemical fertilizers have a 'kick-start' action because they bring nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) in rapidly assimilable quantities.

These fertilizers are divided into several families.

The best known are liquid fertilizers that are added to the water regularly (always after a very abundant watering to avoid burning the roots and respecting the doses). These fertilizers are dosed in a very specific way according to the targeted plants. The N/P/K dosage varies: for example, for green plants, the proportion of nitrogen will be more important to promote the development of foliage, while for flowering plants, phosphorus and potassium will be preferred. Fortunately, manufacturers have thought of everything and package their fertilizers under meaningful names such as 'Special fertilizer for indoor plants', 'Special fertilizer for geraniums' etc...

Liquid fertilizers also exist in foliar form, which means that they are sprayed directly on the foliage for an even faster action.

Another possibility is powder fertilizers, which will be diluted in the water or granulated fertilizers. These last ones exist in 'whiplash' version or in slow release in the form of balls or dice which are added to the substrate and which allow to be quiet during several months.

10 tips for creating a vegetable garden on the balcony

Creating a vegetable garden on your balcony is not always as easy as you might think in magazines, especially when you are a beginner. Here are 10 tips that will make it easier for you!

1- Take into account the exposure of the balcony

Before you start, take a good look at your balcony, what is its exposure? Is it in full sun? If so, you're in luck because you can grow most vegetable plants there. If it is in the shade and exposed to the North, forget tomatoes, eggplants and melons!

2- Be well informed

If you are a real novice, read up on gardening in books or on websites dedicated to gardening, this will help you avoid making many mistakes later on.

3- Get the right equipment

To grow vegetable plants on a balcony, you need containers that are large enough for the roots to develop properly. Forget about small individual pots and invest in large, deep containers. There are also growing tables specially adapted to growing on a balcony.

4- Drainage

Drainage is an important concept! Containers should be pierced at the bottom and a layer of gravel or clay balls should be left in place to allow water to drain away to avoid root rot and the failures that go with it.

5- Choose the best potting soil possible

Choose a very good commercial potting soil. Avoid the cheap ones, and prefer a brand name potting soil that already contains a slow release fertilizer, because the nutrients will be in less quantity and more quickly depleted than in open ground. This parameter is very important to ensure a good success. Add a fertilizer base for greedy plants.

6-Use the verticality

Sometimes there is not enough space on a balcony. Get around this problem by placing large containers at the foot of the side walls. You can use them to grow string beans, peas, cucumbers or even melons on a solidly attached trellis. At the foot of these climbers, in the foreground of the planter, strawberries, aromatic herbs, lettuce and radishes will find their place.

7- Grow early seedlings under cover

Invest in a mini heating greenhouse to sow tomatoes, peppers, melons, zucchini and eggplant in the warmth of March. This method allows you to obtain varieties that cannot be found in pots in the shops, to grow old or forgotten varieties and also to save money.

8- Wait for the right moment

Don't rush! Even if some vegetable plants are on sale very early in the garden centers, wait until all risk of frost is gone to install the most frigid ones.

8- Watering

Watering must be even more regular than for plants in the ground because evaporation in pots is much more important. Be very careful and never let the mixture dry out completely between two waterings.

9- Mulch

To reduce watering operations by limiting evaporation, mulch the base of your plants with a layer of at least 15 cm of straw, grass clippings, RCW, or flax chaff.

10- Fertilize

Fertilize regularly during the season with a complete organic fertilizer in granules.

10 tips for successful planters

With the arrival of summer, the desire to plant flowers on your balcony becomes more pressing. Here are a few tips to make your window boxes a success and turn your balcony into a cascade of flowers.

1- Choose the right plants

Given the vast choice offered in garden centers, it is very important to know how to select plants that will be happy on your balcony. Choose plants that are adapted to the exposure of your balcony, for example petunias if it is sunny and fuchsias if it is shady.

2- Choose plants that meet the same needs

If you want to create a composition in a planter, the plants installed must have the same cultural needs. Never plant a water-hungry species with plants that enjoy dry soil! Failure is guaranteed.

3- Choose the right planter

Choose a deep planter that is wide enough for the roots to develop well. Vary the pleasures or adapt your planters to the style of your balcony: flashy, wooden, metal, there is something for every taste and every setting.

4- Drain

The bottom of the planter should be perforated so that water does not stagnate at the roots. Remember to add a layer of at least 1 cm of clay balls or gravel at the bottom of the container, always with the same purpose of drainage.

5- Choose the right soil

In containers, the choice of substrate is of crucial importance to ensure good success. Always choose a brand name, quality potting soil rather than cheap potting soil.

6- Respect the planting distances

In order for plants to grow without competing with each other, and therefore remain healthy, it is imperative to respect a certain distance between them. 3 cups are enough to fill a 30 cm long planter. If at the beginning, your planter seems bare, don't panic! The plants will soon fill it.

7- Wait before planting

In the spring, wait until all risk of frost has been eliminated before planting cold-weather plants in your window boxes. For certain plants such as begonias, petunias or New Guinea impatiens, be patient.

8- Composing with balance

To achieve a beautiful composition, remember to vary the shapes and volumes. Compact plants in the center, more vertical plants in the background and drooping plants in the foreground.

9- Think about foliage

Plants with decorative foliage are very useful to provide a 'link' or create a contrast in the compositions. Coleus, variegated ivy, mint, plectranthus, heuchers will be introduced in small touches in the planters.

10- Harmonize colors

Beware of errors of taste! To avoid a "carnival" effect on your balcony, mix similar colors to create an elegant monochrome or play with contrasts with opposite colors but only in two shades so that it remains pleasant to look at. Finally, use and abuse the white that blends with all colors and softens the compositions. 

Buried watering ? Before digging....

You have decided to install an underground watering system for your lawn? Before starting the work, it is essential to have a technical study carried out by a professional.

There is no need to rush into buying pipes, fittings, sprinklers... 90% of the success of your installation depends on the quality of a preliminary study on plan; this will allow you :

1. To know if, technically, you can make such an installation. Depending on the flow rate and pressure available in your home, this is not always the case!
2. To obtain a list of all the necessary supplies, without forgetting anything.
3. To be sure that the underground installation will work (maximum number of sprinklers per pipe, location of solenoid valves, installation of the programmer, diameters of the pipes to be used,...).
4. Most importantly, it will allow you to know exactly where to place the sprinklers.

You may think that this last point seems simple to address, and yet it is one of the most difficult parts to design in an optimized way.

Only a specialist, who is familiar with the technical characteristics of the various existing sprinklers, will be able to advise you on the locations that will be definitive once the trenches have been filled in.

A wrong location, and you risk to be disappointed with what you have installed by yourself.

The main risk is that the coverage (...rainfall) is not balanced. In this case, you will have to water longer than expected certain areas of the garden that are not properly covered, in order to "wet" everything.

This will result in a very high (too high!) water consumption.

In short, the correct crossing of sprinklers offers the guarantee of a uniform watering quickly, thus saving water.

This is why, once the technical study on the plan is in your hands, it is imperative not to modify what has been done, especially in terms of the quantity of sprinklers planned, and the crossing of the watering zones. As always, a sprinkler must cover a large part of the surface of its neighbor, this is the first principle to respect.

Some DIY superstores will provide you with a free technical study through their supplier.

You can also ask a professional, but the service will probably be invoiced in this case.

Once you have the technical study on plan in your hands, you can get the useful material, and start digging...

Rather than with your arms, I can only encourage you to use a rental machine : excavator, trencher...

Underground watering of a lawn from a tank

Buried watering from a tank is a recurrent question on our forum, and Nicolas, our watering specialist, brings us his analysis of the question.

"Automatic watering of a lawn from a rainwater collection tank is more of a philosophical choice than an economic one."

Example:

• You install a 6500 liters tank (2000 Euros or the equivalent of 500 000 liters of "drinking" water)
• You install an automatic watering pump, thus automated with its various safeties (500 Euros, i.e. 125 000 litres of water)

=> You must therefore consume 625 000 litres of water before you can amortize the installation (we'll skip the "various and sundry" costs that come on top of this, including the earthwork and the masonry installation for a tank, the overflow drain, the supply through the gutters, the installation and the wiring of the pump... )

After 625 000 liters of water, we begin to earn money (once again, I pass the maintenance of the installation, wear of the pump, or simply the electric consumption of a pump which must function 250 hours at best for this flow, for a motor of 1000 Watt).

325,000 liters = 156,000 m² of lawn for information.

=> Assuming that you have 1000 m² of land, you need -only- 150 days of watering to amortize the installation. But the problem is that during these 150 days of watering, there is no water in the tank. A (full!) tank of 6500 liters can automatically water 1500 m² of lawn, but the next day the tank is empty...

The use of a tank with its pump, its installation and its maintenance is rather expensive and it takes years before it is amortized, it can't be a financial choice (to save money), it's much cheaper to pay city water, especially in the short and medium term. Especially since it is possible for large plots of land to have water half as expensive by the water company (that's another subject).

A tank, even a big one, does not allow to do the underground watering of an automatic installation. A tank allows you to water your vegetable garden, to water your window boxes, to let your children play with water, to wash your car (a little), from time to time. It is a product that is often empty when you need it, and that overflows when it is winter...

The tank filled with rainwater is not a product suitable for automatic in-ground watering of the lawn unless you have a tank with a much larger reserve.

Balconies and terraces, the principle of installation for plants in pots

An automatic watering system for a terrace is very simple to install. All you need is a simple tap. A 220 volt power supply is not necessary.

Let's get rid of the idea that such an installation is only useful during your absence, for vacations: like any watering system, it is a comfort that can be used most of the year, and that allows to save water.

Most of the big DIY stores sell all the material you will need. It is very easy to install, the fittings being, for the most part, to be fitted without tools.

Principle of installation of the system

• At the beginning, a tap on the terrace.
• We place on it a "double outlet" which will allow to multiply by 2 the fittings.
• On the first one, we screw a battery programmer (use good quality alkaline batteries: Varta or Duracell for example).
• The second outlet will remain free and autonomous in order to easily wash hands, fill a bucket...
• After this programmer, connected by a piece of garden hose, come the filter and the regulator.
• The filter prevents particles from blocking the small sprinklers placed in the pots (or planters).
• The pressure reducer is used to lower the pressure and regulate it. All the rest of the installation works in low pressure: from 1,5 to 2,5 bars.
• Since the installation is now in low pressure, it is necessary to unroll polyethylene pipe of diameter 13x16mm (in the Garden department, in GSB).
• For the terraces made on slabs, it is possible to pass this pipe underneath: the discretion of the installation is then total.
• At the end of the pipe, put a small stop valve rather than a plug, this allows to drain the pipe before winter: once the pipe is emptied of its water, the major part of the installation remains in place outside.
• From this main 13x16 pipe, we will create many branches, to go up in each pot, with small 4mm (or 4,6mm) pipe. This pipe should not be used as the main supply; we cut short lengths of it (from 1 to 5 meters) which will be connected to the 13x16 pipe.
• Finally, at the end of the small pipe, a dripper or a micro-sprinkler (usually reserved for very large containers) is installed. The installation must include one or the other. I strongly advise against mixing these two sprinklers, which are very different in terms of the amount of water they deliver.
• The only thing left to do is to fix the dripper with a small spike (or ground spike) so that it does not touch the ground directly but is slightly raised.

Tips for use

Set the timer for watering late in the evening, ideally at night, or early in the morning. If the trays can't hold water, why not do three short waterings...? With a good battery, you can water several times a night, for more than six months, without ever changing the battery.

But before winter, bring in the timer, remove the battery and put in a new one the following year.

With a simple installation like this one, you save time, peace of mind, you use less water than with your watering can, with a much better result.