Camellia, the keys to success

Some advice to succeed in growing your camellia ...

The best location


Shelter from cold draughts and the burning rays of the sun. The cooler the soil remains in summer, the more the camellia resists the sun. Don't hesitate to plant it under the cover of large deciduous trees, avoiding the proximity of large shallow-rooted trees that pump all the water. The presence of a canopy protects the most fragile flowers from bad weather and prevents the white flowers from rusting. Spare it the eastern exposure that the winter sun heats up too quickly after a cold night.

The best substrate


Acid (pH around 6), fresh, drained and fertile! If your soil is calcareous or neutral, make a special pit and line the bottom with a garden felt or plant in a pot. Beware of pure heather soil, too light and too poor. Improve it with as much humus. In pots, give some body to the substratum by incorporating a clay soil of the rose type.

Safe planting


Soak the root ball of the camellia well before planting to hydrate it. The planting hole should be equal to twice the volume of the root ball, wider than it is deep because the roots are superficial. Improve drainage by placing a layer of clay balls at the bottom of the hole (not white gravel, limestone!!).

Some precautions in pots 


The camellia can live for many years in a pot if it is at least 35-40 cm in diameter. At the beginning of each spring, replace 5 cm of the surface with a brand new substrate. The pot allows you to enjoy perfect flowers if you can shelter them from cold and bad weather in a greenhouse or an unheated veranda (5 to 10°C).

Its Achilles heel!


The superficial roots are sensitive to drought and cold. The best solution: mulch with a good bed of dead leaves or grass clippings depending on the season.

Water with care 


Keep the substrate fresh all year long by watering regularly with non-calcareous water. Camellia fears drought as much as excess water that suffocates the roots. Don't forget to water in winter, especially if it is in a pot or placed under a roof edge.

Well nourished 


Regular mulching with organic matter enriches the soil. Complete with a spring application of fertilizer 'Plants of heathland' to boost the growth and the formation of future flower buds.

To prune or not ?


Pruning is not necessary except to remove diseased or cold-damaged parts. Prune after the camellia blooms when it is no longer freezing. Regularly clean the faded flowers of those that do not lose them naturally. Watch out for future buds that form very early. You can give a new look to the slightly gangly subjects by pruning them short, but do not count on flowers the following winter!

Camellia: family portrait

Buy your camellia in bloom to choose the most beautiful flowers. Learn about its characteristics keeping in mind the use you want to make of it.

There is a multitude of hybrids with very different qualities. If your home has a long, cold winter, choose a late blooming variety.

Japanese camellias are the most classic, the most rustic and those which present the greatest number of varieties with flower forms and colors sometimes very sophisticated or original. English hybridizations between Camellia japonica and Camellia saluensis, a Chinese from Yunnan, have given the x Williamsii series. These are extremely floriferous and have the advantage of being self-cleaning unlike Japanese camellias (the faded flowers fall off by themselves). With a more flexible habit and a more vigorous growth, the garden scenes will have a more natural style.

How to choose?

  • The earliest: Bow Bells, Cornish Snow, Nobilissima, St Ewe, Sugar Dream, 'Takanini'.
  • The longest bloomers: Bow Bells, Brigadoon, Donation (a very popular variety, soft pink that is bursting with flowers), Freedom Bell, Gloire de Nantes, Inspiration (large flowers), Takanini
  • The most resistant to cold: A Audusson, Gloire de Nantes, Nobilissima
  • The most adapted to pot culture (moderate vigor, reduced size, slow growth): Gay Baby, Night Rider, San Dimas
  • The safe values (easy): A. Audusson, Debbie, Inspiration, Lavinia Maggi, Elegans, Mme Lourmand
  • The most sophisticated (perfect shapes, shades): Ave Maria, Désir, Sunny Side
  • The most original : Elegance Champagne (tinted with yellow), Tulip Time
  • The most natural : Donation, Lily Pons, Mark Alan
  • The fragrant ones: Cinnamon Cindy, Sugar Dream
  • Extra in hedge (fast growing and important development): Cinnamon Cindy, Inspiration, St Ewe
  • To be trained: soft branches: Cornish Snow, Debbie, Donation, Elegant Beauty

The reds

  • Adolphe Audusson: (jap) camellia of French origin very popular and widespread. Vigorous, hardy, upright habit. Large semi-db cherry red flowers. Feb to April.
  • Elegant Beauty: (hyb) vigorous, salmon red semi-db flower. March to May.
  • Mark Alan: (jap) double anemone flower, cherry red, hardy and vigorous. March to May.
  • Night Rider : (jap) semi-db miniature flower, dark red with purple young shoots. Very compact. Feb to April.
  • San Dimas (jap) medium flower, bright red Feb to April.
  • Takanini: (jap) small red anemone flower, fast growing. Nov to April.

The roses

  • Ave Maria: (jap) vigorous variety, upright habit, medium size imbricated flower, pearly pink. Dec. to Mar.
  • Bow Bells: (hyb de Saluenensis): bell-shaped pink flower, very early and very floriferous. January to April.
  • Brigadoon: (hyb) very hardy, very floriferous, large single flower, likes cool summers. Feb to April.
  • Debbie: (hyb) large peoniform flower, satin pink from February to April.
  • Desire : (jap) admirable intertwined flower mixing pale pink and brighter pink. Vigorous. Feb to April.
  • Donation : very popular variety, rustic, very floriferous, semi-double soft pink. Tolerates the sun. Jan. to April.
  • Gloire de Nantes : (jap) old variety, semi-double bright pink flower. Long flowering. Dec. to March.
  • Inspiration: (hyb) large parma pink flower, long bloom, Dec to Mar.
  • St Ewe: (hyb) fast growing, slender habit, bright pink bell. Jan to April.
  • Sugar Dream: (hyb of Oleifera) medium semi-db soft pink flower with creamy scented heart. Nov to Feb.
  • Tulip Time: (jap) small single light pink tulip shaped flower! Dec to March.

The whites

  • Cinnamon Cindy (hyb): small double flower, pinkish white, subtle cinnamon scent. Nov to April.
  • Countess Lavinia Maggi: (jap) 19th century variety, imbricate, white streaked with carmine. Feb to April.
  • Cornish Snow : (hyb) very floriferous. Small simple flower, white. Feb to April.
  • Elegance Champagne (jap) large white flower with a champagne heart. Feb to May.
  • Freedom Bell : (hyb) floriferous, hardy, small bright red bell-shaped flowers. Dec to March.
  • Lily Pons : (jap) large single to semi-db pure white flowers. Jan to April.
  • Nobilissima: (jap) early, very double medium white flowers with cream highlights, vigorous, Nov to Feb.
  • Sunny Side : (jap) medium white flower hemmed with pink. Feb to April.

Choosing the right oak for your garden

The oak is a majestic tree representing strength and durability. Highly symbolic, this tree can live hundreds of years and should be chosen according to the size of your garden and the climate of your region. Here is an overview of the most common species...

An oak even in a small garden ?


If you dream of planting an oak tree but do not have a large garden, the solution exists: the Kermes oak (Quercus coccifera). It does not exceed two meters in height and can withstand wind, sea spray and drought, so it is ideal for planting in Mediterranean gardens.

Another heat lover, the cork oak (Quercus suber) will grow perfectly in the same conditions as the previous species, however it does not tolerate calcareous soil. It will reach a height of 10 meters but its growth is rather slow.

Another oak appreciating the southern regions, the holm oak (Quercus ilex), very tolerant to heat and drought, it appreciates limestone soils. Its nicely cut foliage, of a beautiful light green color, makes it a choice subject to install in a garden.
The pubescent oak (Quercus pubescens), more rustic than the species presented above, can be planted in most gardens. With its untidy and tortuous habit, it offers a beautiful spread (8 to 10 m). It should therefore not be installed in very small gardens!

The best species for large gardens


In a large garden, anything goes! Spreading out, incredible height and span, let yourself go crazy with the oak!

The sessile oak (Quercus petraea) is a choice subject in isolation because of its spreading silhouette. It can reach a height of 30 m for 25 m wide. Its golden foliage is very ornamental in the fall. It tolerates most soils, whether dry, neutral or acid, but does not tolerate limestone. Very hardy, it will do well in most regions.

The common oak (Quercus robur) also needs a well-adapted space to grow since it can reach 30 meters in height and 20 meters in span. It is one of the most difficult oaks in terms of the nature of the soil, which must be rather neutral. It hates dryness and needs constant coolness to grow well. Once these conditions are met, you will be rewarded by its beauty!

Great star of the gardens, the American red oak is a fast growing tree that will reach up to 25 meters in height for a spread of 15 to 20 m. Very hardy, it tolerates temperatures down to -25°C in winter. It appreciates non-calcareous and well-drained soils, but tolerates pollution and drought well, which is why it is often used as a line tree. Its foliage turns flamboyant red in autumn, which adds to its undeniable ornamental quality.

Ideal for very humid gardens, the swamp oak (Quercus palustris) will do well on the banks of rivers or in marshy areas, but only in plains because it does not tolerate altitude. This beautiful and slender tree of 20 meters high, very rustic, does not accept limestone soils. In autumn it is adorned with shimmering orange-red colors.

How to cut the spirea, a very flowering shrub?

When to cut the spirea ?


The spirea can be cut as soon as June and throughout the summer.

How to take cuttings ?


Take a stem of 25 cm already a little lignified (wood) on a healthy plant without any trace of disease or pests.


Remove the leaves from the base of the cutting and keep two or three.

Cut the stem above these two leaves to keep only a segment of about 10 cm and plant it directly in the soil leaving just the leaves above.

Choose a shady spot to make your cutting. For this propagation technique to work, you need to find the right balance between the time when the cutting is likely to dry out and the time when it will have the capacity to emit roots. If it is left in full sun or wind, the chances of success are greatly compromised because the cutting will perish before it has time to put down roots.

Water gently but generously at the foot of the cutting to soak the soil.

A trick consists in placing a glass jar upside down on the cutting in order to carry out the technique of cuttings in the smother. A hygrometry close to 100% will thus be preserved and the cutting will be protected from the climatic hazards and from the trampling of possible children or animals thanks to the jar.

How to maintain the cutting ?


Be sure to water regularly to maintain a correct humidity and favorable to the emission of new roots.

It is not necessary to remove the jar before 4 to 6 weeks, period during which new leaves should appear in the armpit of the old ones marking the effective recovery of the cutting.

Wait until winter to remove it and place it in an individual pot with potting soil if you wish to offer or exchange your cutting.

If you prefer to keep it, transplant it in the place of the garden that you will have dedicated to it. Remember to water after this operation, as well as the weeks following if it does not rain enough to ensure a good recovery.

How to cut the lantana ?

The lantana never ceases to charm visitors to southern gardens. To cut this plant with its brightly colored pompon inflorescences, nothing could be easier, follow the guide!

Lantana, who are you?


The lantana is a small shrub native to South America for most species. Its evergreen and aromatic foliage when crumpled between the fingers is covered with rounded inflorescences with attractive colors. Most often yellow, orange, pink, cream or red, the flowers follow one another from May until the first frost. In the most southern regions, it is not uncommon to see it blooming also in winter.

When to cut the lantana?


Cutting can be done in March in the warmth of the new shoots or in August on the semi-hardened stems.

How to take cuttings of lantana?


If you proceed to the cutting in March on a plant kept warm, the cutting will be made on a young tender and green shoot.

If you prefer to do it at the end of summer, the stem will be woody (hard) and straw-colored.
  • Take a pruning shears whose blades will have been disinfected beforehand.
  • Cut an end of the stem of 15 cm length.
  • Remove any flower clusters and then the leaves, keeping only the last two leaves at the top of the cutting.
  • Fill a bucket with a light mixture made of half of good soil and half of river sand.
  • With the tip of a pencil, dig a hole in the center of the mixture 5 cm deep.
  • Dip the end of the cutting into some powdered cutting hormone or willow water to increase your chances of success.
  • Place the cutting in the hole previously made, taking care not to remove the hormone powder in the process.
  • Gently close the soil around the stem and pack.
  • Water in a fine rain.
  • Place three or four vertical sticks (20 cm high) around the mixture along the wall of the pot. They will keep the translucent plastic bag that you will install on top out of contact with the cutting.
  • Attach the plastic bag to the pot with a rubber band or raffia.

After taking a lantana cutting

  • Place your cutting in a very bright light without direct sunlight.
  • Wait about a month until the roots have formed before removing the plastic bag.
  • Water and gradually place your cutting in the morning or late afternoon sun.
  • Transplant 3 months later in a larger pot or in the garden if frosts are no longer a concern as the lantana does not tolerate the cold.

How to prune the camellia?

Pruning a camellia is not essential to its blooming or to its good health, but it is sometimes necessary to intervene to give it an aesthetic and compact habit. Let's see how to proceed...

When to prune the camellia ?


Wait until flowering is over before pruning your camellia. This plant blooms on the year's shoots. If you prune too late, you risk not seeing your camellia bloom the following year.

You can prune your camellia every year at this time if you want to maintain a compact habit and good branching.

It is possible to recut old subjects that are less floriferous and bald at the base, but this operation remains exceptional.

If a subject has been affected by frost and the leaves have 'burned', do not hesitate to prune as soon as the good weather returns. It will grow again forming eyes in the wood if the stump has not been touched.

Classic maintenance pruning


Prepare your pruning shears by sharpening the blades and disinfecting them with a flame or a cloth soaked in methylated spirits. This simple gesture avoids the propagation of diseases.

The classic maintenance pruning consists in keeping a harmonious silhouette to our camellia. It consists in cutting off the overhanging stems and the faded flowers to give the plant a pleasant shape. At the same time, you can take the opportunity to cut out dead wood and damaged, diseased or crossing stems in the center of the plant.

Shorten slightly the stems that protrude from the sides of the plant to give it a more rounded shape.

Prune any stems that compromise the symmetry of the shrub.

Rejuvenation pruning


Rejuvenation pruning is done on an old subject. The causes can be various:
  • It takes up too much space in height;
  • It becomes less floriferous with time;
  • It is getting thinner at the base, which can be annoying in the case of camellias forming a hedge.
Take a handsaw with a disinfected blade and cut the trunk at about 50 cm from the ground.

Apply a green clay or propolis-based healing putty to sanitize and protect the cut area. Buds will form directly on the trunk as soon as the vegetation starts to grow again. To help this recovery, scratch a mixture of compost, ground horn powder and dried blood at the foot of your camellia. Water it regularly to support the recovery.

How to prune a butterfly tree?

The buddleia, better known as the 'butterfly tree', is a large shrub that can become very cluttered with age and recede from the base. Proper pruning will ensure that the shrub will bloom even more opulently and maintain its silhouette, so don't hesitate!

When to prune the buddleia?


Maintenance and rejuvenation pruning of Buddleia can be done from November to February, except during frosty periods.

A summer pruning is also possible in order to spread the flowering over long months.

How to prune a butterfly tree?


To prune a buddleia that is already well established, you will need a pruning saw for the larger branches and secateurs for the secondary branches and small stems. Don't forget to disinfect all blades with methylated spirits before pruning to prevent the spread of disease.

Maintenance pruning


  • Start by clearing the center of the shrub by removing dead or aging branches with the saw. Prune squarely at the base of each branch to obtain a clean cut.
  • Then locate all new growth and cut it back to within 3 to 4 centimeters of the old wood.
  • Remove all secondary branches facing the inside of the tree with the pruning shears.
  • The center of the tree should be clear and the silhouette harmonious.

Summer pruning


In order to obtain flowers for a longer period of time, it is possible, in addition to the maintenance pruning, to carry out a pruning at the beginning of the summer. This is done on the young shoots and requires pruning shears.
  • Simply prune a third of the new shoots to stagger the production of flowers until October.
  • You can repeat the operation in July/August, this time removing all the flowering stems.
  • Do not hesitate to prune all the faded flowers to induce the formation of new flower buds.

Rejuvenation pruning


Over time, the butterfly tree takes on a neglected appearance, the branches, which can reach 4 meters in height, form a dense vegetal jumble. Less floriferous, it also risks suffocating the surrounding ornamental plants, so it is time to act!

This pruning should be done in winter outside the frost period.
  • Prune without regret at ground level the oldest branches.
  • Cut the remaining branches at 20 cm from the ground.

How to prune a hydrangea?

A shrub with exuberant and spectacular blooms, the hydrangea is one of the best values in the garden. Over the years, it can lose its elegance or its vigor, so pruning will be necessary.

Hydrangea pruning in brief


Hydrangea pruning should be done at the end of winter in a rational way so as not to compromise the flowering which takes place on the previous year's shoots.

  1. Cut off the faded flowers above the first bud under the flower.
  2. Cut off dead and dry branches
  3. Cut the stunted stems and those that cross to aerate the center.
  4. Cut back very old stems to their base.

How to prune hydrangea?


There are several species of hydrangea, all of which are part of the Hydrangea genus.


The ball hydrangea sold in florists (Hydrangea macrophylla) is the most common one in gardens, which is the one we will deal with in this article.

This hydrangea blooms on the previous year's stems, so pruning should be light at the risk of not taking advantage of its beautiful bloom.

The pruning operation is done at the end of winter or at the very beginning of spring before the vegetation wakes up. At this time, the stems only have buds and remnants of last year's faded flowers. Start by removing these by pruning them just above the first bud present under the flower.

You will then have to give a nice aspect to the shrub, especially if it has not been pruned for a long time and that the branches form a dense vegetal jumble. To do this, cut off all the dead and dry branches with the secateurs. Take advantage of this to trim the weak stems at their base as well as those that cross each other in order to clear the center of the plant and thus provide it with better air and light penetration. This important step avoids the installation of parasites and limits the development of diseases.

As we have seen, it is not advisable to prune all the stems at the risk of not being able to enjoy the flowers during the summer. A selection must be made in order to ensure the renewal of the shoots, to give back vigor to the hydrangea while keeping a maximum of branches bearing flowers. If your hydrangea is an old subject, cut back the very old stems at their base. You will recognize them by their larger diameter and lighter color. Keep at least two thirds of the branches unpruned to enjoy a beautiful bloom.

Cutting back hydrangeas


Hydrangeas can be cut back on older plants that have lost their vigor and whose inflorescences become smaller each year. In this case, it is possible to sacrifice one year of flowering by cutting back all the stems to 20 cm from the ground. Again, prune just above an outward facing eye if possible to clear the center of the shrub. Scratch some compost at the foot of your hydrangea to help it start again.

Gardenia culture and maintenance

Gardenias: indoor plants


Gardenias are very common indoor evergreens. They are the ones that are offered, that are placed on a corner of the dining room table, and then die without us knowing why; maybe too much water, or not enough...

These are plants native to Asia that are kept indoors because of their relatively low hardiness. Moreover, we meet a lot of them in South Africa.

Hardy varieties of gardenias


However, in recent years, there are varieties of gardenias that are resistant to cold. Some can withstand temperatures as low as -12 or even -15°C. This opens new perspectives; no more plants that die inside. By installing them outside, in pots or in a bed, their culture becomes much simpler.

The outdoor gardenias are specific varieties. Among them, there are plants with small, medium or large development. The largest of the hardy gardenias is Gardenia jasminoides 'Summer Snow'. It is a very vigorous variety, whose large white flowers give off a delicious sweet scent.

Flowering of gardenias


Most of the time, gardenias bloom during the summer. It can extend from June to October, or even November, knowing that some varieties are more remontant than others (4 months of bloom for some; 1.5 months for others).

The culture of gardenias


Gardenias are heathland plants, so they do not like limestone soils. The ideal soil is an acidic and rather fresh soil. If you live in a very dry place, where the soil layer is shallow, it is necessary to enrich the soil with compost and install a mulch to keep it fresh.

In a calcareous soil, it is mandatory to add heather soil or Sequestrene (even in neutral soil) because gardenia can be subject to chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves).

In summary, the cultivation of gardenias requires :

  • plenty of compost ;
  • a mulch ;
  • a fresh soil.
The right exposure 
  • In the south of France: sun in the morning, shade in the afternoon;
  • In the northern regions, in Brittany or Normandy: full sun.

The multiplication of gardenia


The gardenia can be sown (NB: it is not self-fertile). It can also be cutted in September on the semi-hardened stem, but the percentage of success is weak.

Flowering shrubs for winter

In winter, the garden seems to be dull. To bring a touch of cheerfulness, think of winter flowering shrubs, so you can still enjoy a beautiful show from November to March, despite the cold.

The flowering cherry tree


Installed as an isolated specimen to enjoy its splendor, Prunus subbhirtella 'Autumnalis Rosea' will be among the earliest to bloom. It blooms from November to March in successive waves of small, soft pink flowers at the rhythm of the warm weather. Its development being limited, it can be installed in small gardens.

Dogwoods


Cornus mas and Cornus officinalis are very easy to grow and offer the spectacle of their yellow flowers in February-March. They like most soils and are very hardy, neither frost nor snow can harm them.

Winter jasmine


Here is a shrub that likes the shade and blooms in the heart of winter. Winter Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) displays small bright yellow stars on its bare branches. It tolerates most soils and is equally well suited to be trained against a wall or left free to cover a slope.

Viburnum


Viburnum tinus, known by its vernacular name of 'Viorne', has a compact habit and is covered with slightly fragrant pinkish-white inflorescences throughout the winter. For variety, consider Viburnum x bodnantense and Viburnum fragans, which will bloom from November to March. The berries attract birds!

Sarcococca


It looks like a boxwood with pointed leaves from afar, but it is in fact a Sarcococca, a shrub of limited size (0.50 x 1.50 m) which starts to bloom at the end of January with original and fragrant white flowers.

The mahonia


An original shrub with prickly, tiered foliage, the mahonia is covered from February onwards with crowns of spikes of yellow flowers with fragrances reminiscent of lily of the valley. This shrub is ideal as a defensive hedge.

Witch Hazel


This shrub with a flared habit and elegant silhouette is adorned with fragrant lemon-yellow or slightly orange flowers from January. Another attraction of witch hazel is its foliage, which takes on flamboyant hues in spring.

Japanese quince


There are many varieties of Chaenomeles. If you choose them well, you will be able to stagger the blooms from December to March with a palette ranging from white to red, passing through pink and orange!

Edgeworthia


This little known shrub deserves its place in gardens where the climate remains mild because it is not very hardy (from -5° to -10°C once well installed). From February to April, it produces clusters of fragrant white and yellow flowers. Some cultivars of the edgeworthia like 'Red Dragon' put the red in the honor!

Scented winter shrubs

Most winter flowering shrubs are divinely scented, discover their scents.

Scented shrubs for the balcony

Sarcococca humilis: this small evergreen shrub grows very well in a pot. It forms in a few seasons a nice compact clump with dark green and glossy foliage. Small discreet cream flowers are present all winter long in the armpit of the leaves. They emit a very powerful vanilla scent. They are followed by navy blue berries. H and E: 0,5 to 1 m.
Its needs: half-shade, shade. Fresh and humusy substratum. Slight pruning after flowering.

Daphne odora: it is the most perfumed of all the daphnes. Its light green evergreen foliage edged with cream is covered all winter with a generous bright pink bloom with flowery and spicy notes evoking jasmine, carnation and clove. H : 1,5 m. E: 1 m.
Its needs: half-shade, sheltered from draughts. Very well drained soil, cool in summer, rich in humus. No pruning required.

Scented shrubs for the terrace


Mimosa : belonging to the genus Acacia, this small tree prefers mild climates. Its clusters of small golden yellow pompons illuminate the winter decor. The scent is reminiscent of sugar and honey. H and W: 2 to 4 m. Its needs: full sun, well drained soil, not calcareous (the species retinoides, the "mimosa of the four seasons" tolerates a little calcareous). When the cold is intense, protect the mimosa with a forcing veil or put the pot in a clear, unheated room.

Skimmia japonica : this shrub with a compact and rounded habit offers a dark green, shiny and leathery evergreen foliage. The plant is dioecious. The flowering of the male subjects is more beautiful than that of the females. From February, small bunches of creamy star-shaped flowers with purple stamens emit a scent reminiscent of vanilla, lily of the valley and orange tree. It is the female plants which offer a splendid brilliant red fructification. H and W: 1 to 1,5 m.
Its needs: light sun, half-shade, fresh soil. Pruning unnecessary (slow growth).

Viburnum farreri : formerly named V.fragrans, this beautiful deciduous shrub is a real winter incense with notes of vanilla, honey and almond. The small clusters of pale pink flowers can be seen from autumn, accompanying us until early spring. They are followed by red fruits. H: 2 to 3 m and W: 2 m. Choose the cultivar 'Nanum' which reaches 1 m and is decorative all year round.
Its needs: sun (shelter from the morning sun, avoid eastern exposures), cool soil. Prune after flowering if necessary. You can also fall for the Camellia sasanqua (blooms from autumn to the middle of winter). Our favorites for the small garden

Daphne mezereum: this deciduous shrub with soft green foliage justifies its name of 'pretty wood' with its generous pink or purple bloom, which lasts several weeks from February to April. Its flowers scent jasmine but also hyacinth, carnation and clove. They are followed by small red drupes scarlet very toxic but appreciated by the birds. H and E: 50 cm to 2 m. Slow growth.
Its needs: light sun, half-shade. Well-drained soil but cool in summer. Does not like to be moved.

Witch hazel: the "witches' hazel" is a deciduous shrub with an upright or spreading habit that blooms in late winter. Its flowers in light sulphur yellow, copper or brick red pompons are scattered along the branches. Their scent is reminiscent of honey. For its more intense perfume, prefer the species H.mollis to the hybrids Hamamelis x intermedia. H and E : 1 to 2 m. Magnificent autumn coloring of the foliage.
Its needs: sun, half-shade, shelter from drafts, cool and acid soil. No pruning (slow growth).


Mahonia x media 'Charity' : this large erect shrub becomes rounder with time. It offers a very decorative evergreen foliage. The large, leathery, dark green leaves have very prickly edges. The very long flowering period begins in the heart of autumn and lasts until March. The large clusters of golden yellow spikes perfume the air, evoking the scent of lily of the valley. The flowers are followed by navy blue plum berries, very appreciated by birds. H and W: 2 to 3 m.
Its needs: light sun, half-shade. Fertile, fresh and humus soil. No pruning (slow growth).

You can also fall for the Viburnum carlesii (flowering at the end of winter).

Scented shrubs for the country hedge


Abeliophyllum distichum : often called white forsythia, this little-known deciduous shrub has an upright and flared bushy habit. It blooms very generously from February (or March depending on the climate). The clusters of white to pinkish white tubular flowers smell like almonds! They are followed by heart-shaped and winged seeds. H and W: 1,5 to 2 m.
Its needs: sun, half-shade, shelter of the cold draughts. Fertile and fresh soil. Pruning unnecessary (slow growth).

Chimonanthus praecox : this large deciduous and erect shrub deserves the name of "winter sweetness" that the English give it. From the end of autumn until March, it is covered with a multitude of small discreet bells, waxy yellow speckled with purple, which scent the air for meters around. Their perfume evokes honey and exotic fruits (mango, passion fruit, pineapple). H : 2 to 3 m. E: 2 m.
Its needs: sun, ordinary soil. Useless pruning (slow growth).

Corylopsis pauciflora : cousin of the witch hazel, this deciduous shrub with a flared habit blooms massively from the end of February. The small, drooping clusters of primrose yellow flowers have a flowery scent with fruity accents of sweet orange. Beautiful autumn foliage. H and W: 1.5 to 2 m.
Its needs: sun, half-shade, shelter from draughts, fertile, light, rather acidic and cool soil in summer. Pruning unnecessary (slow growth).

Lonicera fragrantissima : this shrubby honeysuckle quickly forms a large bush with a spreading or even drooping habit. The deciduous to semi-evergreen foliage is compensated by the long winter blooming whose sweet perfume evokes honeysuckle, jasmine and orange blossom. The small cream flowers are renewed from December to March. They are followed by translucent coral-red berries that are toxic for humans but appreciated by birds. H: 2 to 3 m. E: 2,5 to 3,5 m.
Its needs: sun, half-shade, well-drained soil. Pruning unnecessary except to limit development.

Viburnum x bodnantense: this winter viburnum forms a large deciduous shrub with a rather stiff upright habit. It can bloom from November to March even if it is very cold! Its small round bunches of soft pink flowers in bud and white when blooming are reminiscent of jasmine. H : 3 m. E: 2 m.
Its needs: sun, half-shade, humus soil, fresh in summer. Pruning unnecessary.

Viburnum x burkwoodii : this hybrid quickly forms a large rounded bush with shiny dark green semi-evergreen foliage. At the end of the winter, bouquets of pink and then waxy white flowers adorn the plant, diffusing orange blossom scents all around. They are followed by red fruits becoming black in autumn. H and E: 1,5 to 2 m.
Its needs: sun, half-shade, humus soil, fertile and fresh in summer. Pruning unnecessary.

But also: Mahonia aquifolium (flowering in March-April).

Deciduous or evergreen leaves

There are many types of trees and shrubs. Some lose their leaves in the fall, others do not. This difference in vegetation is very important depending on the use of the plant in the garden. It is best to know this when purchasing.

Evergreen trees and shrubs


They are ideal for creating privacy or windbreak hedges because they do not recede in the wrong season. They are also ideal for planting in isolation. An evergreen shrub will always have a more beautiful aesthetic impact than a subject without leaves for part of the year.

Evergreen plants renew their leaves gradually and over the long term, so they always look green. Generally, the persistence of foliage corresponds to an environmental adaptation. The leaves are tougher, often thicker too because the cells that compose them have reinforced walls. They had to adapt to the heat or the intense cold. Thus, shrubs originating from southern areas, with a dry and hot climate, have developed tough, often glossy leaves that limit evaporation to a maximum. In the same way, to fight against the cold, conifers have modified the structure of their leaves, which have become needles or scales that are very tough and resistant over time. The leaf area is thus reduced, which makes it possible to better resist the cold. The foliage is then renewed in stages spread over several years for some species. This is why it seems that these trees and shrubs do not lose their leaves.

The flowering of evergreen shrubs is sometimes less ornamental but that is the price to pay!

Deciduous trees and shrubs


In autumn, when the luminosity weakens, the leaves are no longer able to store and transform energy. Nature being well done, a thick layer will form on the petiole of the leaves preventing the passage of the sap. The energy storage is then done in the wood tissues and the roots. Leaves without chlorophyll and therefore without green pigment take on flamboyant hues. Only deciduous trees and shrubs offer such a spectacle, literally transforming the garden into a dream setting. Winter arrives next, it corresponds to the rest period, ideal for planting.

In spring, with the lengthening of the days and the heat, these plants resume an intense activity producing leaves and flowers. The show starts again each year in an explosion of colors and floral scents!

Did you know about the variegated foliage?

Some information common to shrubs with variegated foliage...

Why is my variegated shrub losing its colors?


If it is a variety marked with cream or white, there is a good chance that it is too exposed to the sun. Chlorophyll, which is a light-sensitive pigment, begins to dominate again. Transplant the shrub to the shade and you will see the variegation appear again. If it is a golden variegation, it is the opposite, because the yellow pigment needs a strong luminosity to acquire all its intensity. In the shade, the color becomes more of a lime.

Did you know?

  • Evergreen foliage does not fall in winter (in this case, it is called deciduous). However, evergreen leaves are not eternal. It lives from 3 to 8 years depending on the species, the plant constantly renewing part of its foliage. Contrary to a deciduous, the evergreen does not undergo a total stop of vegetation during the bad season. It continues to live in slow motion, which requires it to be supplied with water all year round, a very common "oversight" yet sometimes fatal to shrubs grown in pots.
  • Evergreen plants are generally cooler than deciduous ones (conifers are an exception). Most evergreen shrubs are found in tropical climates. The colder the geographic area, the fewer the native evergreens.
  • The usually green color of the leaf is due to the predominance of chlorophyll, a blue-green pigment. But if other pigments such as carotenoids (yellow-orange, red-brown) and anthocyanins (pink, purple, red) are more concentrated than normal, the leaf becomes colored.
  • Most variegation results from the partial disappearance of chlorophyll in the leaf blade. It is often the result of a mutation, which implies the obligation to multiply it by vegetative way (cutting, layering, grafting).
  • The very discolored cultivars pose problems of propagation. Indeed, in some of them, the plant does not have a sufficient quantity of chlorophyll for a fragment of cutted branch to live in autonomy the time to take root. It is therefore necessary to multiply these plants by grafting, which results in a higher selling price.
  • The botanical terminology distinguishes the different types of variegations. Margined ('Marginata') is bordered by a thin band of color. Maculated ('Maculata') has a large spot of color, usually central. Striated or marbled ('Striata') presents more or less fine and regular colored lines. Punctate ('Punctata') is scattered with small colored spots. Reticulated ('Reticulata') is decorated with a colored net, often following the pattern of the veins.
  • The nomenclature not accepting any more Latin terminology for all the cultivars obtained after 1956, many are adorned with names with Anglo-Saxon consonance, because the breeders of plants seek an international career for their creations. The 'Gold', 'Silver', 'Cream', 'Rainbow', 'Harlequin', 'Chamaeleon', thus bloom on many plants.
  • It is necessary to be wary of the panachures which can hide certain deficiencies or a bad adaptation of the plant to its conditions of culture. Some mottling is also due to viruses (but it is most often floral mottling, as is the case for tulips).
  • Gardeners often like to invent words, so they call "suffused" leaves whose discoloration is finely and irregularly degraded by the presence of small green spots more or less dense. This type of leaves could also be called "sandy" as in Aucuba japonica 'Crotonifolia' for example. This characteristic is more common in perennial plants. It is also sometimes found in some flowers (iris and roses in particular).

Stories of elderberry

Since prehistoric times, plants have accompanied men in their daily activities. As a shrub on the edge of the human habitat, the elder has many facets. Nourishing, medicinal, utilitarian, artistic, it was once linked to the protective or evil forces of nature.

A close companion


A familiar silhouette, the black elder, Sambucus nigra, can be seen in open hedges, in the back of gardens, along paths. A guest of ruins, of abandoned houses with collapsed roofs, a lover of nitrogen-rich soil, it follows man in his daily life. Close by its habitat, this shrub is also close by its uses. Its large trays of tiny white flowers, its long hollow stems in sprays, its short, thick, tortuous trunk; but also its malodorous foliage, its marked bark, and its small dark fruits; everything in it is used. From time immemorial, men have appreciated its multiple properties, with caution, sometimes with concern, in the right dose, to avoid possible toxicities. They have also learned not to confuse it with the heathy elder, Sambucus ebulus, a toxic herb.

Elderberry recipes


In mid-spring, elderberry inflorescences bloom. Known for lemonade, the flowers are macerated in the sun in water with sugar, lemon, vinegar, they will compose a pleasant sparkling drink. Cooked with sugar, a little agar-agar, they will be tasted in translucent jelly. Soaked in dough, they will resemble the more famous acacia fritters.

At the end of summer, elderberries are harvested. Raw, and not very mature, they are purgative and vomiting. Ripe, cooked with sugar or honey, they will be used to prepare the elderberry rob, half jam half syrup, very old recipe, with a particular taste. They also take part in the grenadine syrup, alongside raspberries, blackcurrants, redcurrants, strawberries, lemon. And if flowers and berries were not enough, the very young shoots were also consumed, cooked in several waters they appeared at the sides of the "vegetable herbs". Their medicinal properties made the recipe look like a doctor's prescription.

Medicinal properties


The elderberry lists many medicinal properties, from the leaves, to the flowers, to the fruits, to the inner bark, it concentrates for a single shrub many active substances. To use with precautions, and right dosages, the intoxications being real. Any use of medicinal plants requires wise advice, elderberry reminds it by the diversity of its actions, different according to the parts of the plant used, their state, fresh, dry, cooked. As an indication, and the list is far from being complete, the elder is purgative, diuretic, sudorific, antirheumatic, pectoral, dermatological, analgesic, healing; the infusion of the dry flowers is used as eyewash. The uses are internal, teas or decoctions, external, in cataplasm. Simply, and without risk, the crumpled sheets are used to alleviate the punctures.

Uses of elderberry


The gardener will find in the elder leaf purin a precious ally to repel bugs, aphids, caterpillars, mealy bugs, small mammals, voles and moles. It will take advantage of the anti-fungal properties of the dried flowers to preserve the apples, with a pleasant side effect of transmitting a little pineapple taste. The same flowers, harvested in corymbs and dried whole in spring, will act as an anti-germinant for potatoes. The wood craftsmen will forsake its brittle, hollow stems, but will appreciate the old wood of the trunk, hard, dense, fine, used in other times by the turners and the table makers. And if the pith of the branches is still used for microscopic preparations, the children of the bush extracted it to recover long hollow tubes, with multiple vocations, flutes or blowpipes.

The shrub of artists


Elderberry is a musical plant that can be transformed in a few minutes into a flute, a kazoo or a whistle. Its branches are stripped of their soft internal marrow and the tube thus obtained, with bevelled notch, membrane, tricks of musician of the bushes, becomes the desired instrument. Or the bird call, to attract birds. Equipped with a piston at its end, the elder whistle modulates its song, the thrush misunderstands it... Another use of the hollow stem of the elder, appreciated by the children, the blowpipe, but also the firecracker or the water syringe. Plant games, forgotten in the corners of old hedges.

For the artist writer, the elderberry will offer the ink extracted from its small black fruits. Crushed, macerated, mixed with tea, alum and gum arabic, reduced, these fruits on paper have nuances to discover. Fabrics will also benefit from these dyeing properties, although the elderberry, Sambucus ebulus, seems more suitable.

Some stories...


The nocturnal perfume of elder flowers, appreciated or not, is irresistible, makes you lose your senses...

Judas was hanged in an elder tree, after which the fruits would have become bitter.

In the Middle Ages in the Pyrenees, one had to climb an elder tree to summon the devil.

Harry Potter's wand is made of elderberry.

To cut a branch to make a wand or a magic flute, one had to wait for the bells to ring, the demons being afraid of their sound.

So many regions, so many stories and legends in the imagination of men. The elder, a shrub with many faces, was rather beneficial and protective in the northern countries, more ambiguous, even evil, in the western regions.

Few plants offer as many uses as the elder. And then it settles willingly near human habitats, grows vigorously. It offers shelter and cover to birds, insects and spiders, promoting a welcome biodiversity. It is even said that fairies take refuge there, disappointed by the World...

Hydrangea panicule, family portrait

Originally from Asia and introduced in Europe at the end of the 19th century, panicled hydrangeas or Hydrangea paniculata are robust and vigorous shrubs whose heavy clusters of flowers often make the branches that carry them bend.

The numerous conical inflorescences of the panicled hydrangea evoke the flowers of the lilac. Depending on the variety, the cream or white base of the flowers can be tinted with green, old pink or purple. The panicles are composed of tiny and numerous sterile flowers, sprinkled more or less generously, according to the variety, with large fertile flowers. These inflorescences last many weeks in summer and remain decorative until autumn.

The smallest: less than 1.5 m


They are THE solution for small spaces: pocket garden, terrace, balcony. Recently introduced on the market, they offer to all the pleasure of hosting a Hydrangea paniculata. 


Strawberry Sundae' ® : the little cousin of 'Strawberry Vanilla'.
Very bushy, balanced habit. Blooms from July onwards with a mixture of green, cream and pink shades. Colors intensify during the summer weeks. H : 1,2 m and W : 1 m. Sun, mid-shade.

Bobo' : the little darling of balconies
Very compact, very floriferous; it blooms from July onwards offering large creamy panicles first tinged with green which turn white as the weeks go by. H: 80 cm and W: 1,2 m. Sun, half-shade.

Medium-sized plants: less than 2 m


They can be placed anywhere: at the bottom of a bed, in large pots on the terrace, in a small country hedge. These cultivars reach 2 m in all directions. 

Red Diamond' ® : the reddest
This recent obtention (2011) produces from July luxuriant panicles (up to 35-40 cm long) at first white then more and more pink to finish wine-red in autumn. Very bushy habit. H: 1,5 m and W: 1,2 m. Sun, mid-shade.

Phantom' : very full panicles in XXL version
Very floriferous shrub, blooms from August. Stiff stems. White blooming that becomes pink and green with time. H and W : 2 m. Half-shade.


Vanille Fraise' © : an invitation to indulgence
Blooms starting in July, first vanilla-strawberry then crushed raspberry for very greedy cameos! H: 2 and W: 1,5 m. Sun to part shade.

Limelight' : tangy !
Blooms in August mixing cream and chartreuse green. Huge panicles up to 40 cm long but strong stems! As the weeks go by, the flowers lighten then turn pink. H and W: 2 m. Half-shade.

Mega Mindy' © remarkable in autumn
Blooms from July in large, light, creamy-white panicles that darken to wine-white in late summer. H : 2 and W : 1,8m. Sun, mid-shade. A recent obtention.

Praecox': flowers from June
Creamy, light, airy panicles. Well-bushy habit. H: 2 and E: 1,5. Sun, half-shade.

For the collectors : a new 'Prim'White ®' which blooms sometimes from May and offers light and elegant panicles cream then pure white. H : 1,5 m and W : 2 m. Beware exception which blooms on the wood of the previous year so prune after flowering.

Unique' : a sure value
Very vigorous. Impressive from August with its huge pure white panicles, mostly composed of sterile flowers. Bushy habit. H and W: 2 m. Half-shade.

The largest: more than 2m


They offer an irresistible summer interest to mixed hedges, to copses at the bottom of the garden, to large natural beds in country gardens. These Hydrangea paniculata happily exceed 2 m in all directions. Of course, they can be trimmed back a bit at the end of winter, but you might as well take advantage of their strong presence by placing them in the right place!

Pinky Winky' © : a festival of colors
A recent creation that blooms from July. Light panicles first cream then pink then bright red in autumn. H : 3 m. E : 2 m. Sun, part shade.

Grandiflora' : a classic that has proven itself
From August, huge inflorescences (up to 40 cm long) tightly packed in cream tinting to old pink as time goes by. H: 2 to 3 m (up to 5 m high when it likes it!). E: 2,5 m. Half-shade.

Kyushu' : grace and lightness
Long light panicles from July. Cream at first, then tinted with green and tan as the months go by. Erect habit. H : 3 m. E : 2 m. Sun, mid-shade.

'Tardiva' : flowers at the beginning of the school year
Long, creamy, light panicles in September-October. Open habit. H: 2.5 m. E: 5 ft. to 6 ft. Sun, semi-shade.

Hydrangeas, a large family

The diversity of hydrangeas


There are 9 different families of hydrangeas (Hydrangea). It is important to know that the advice that is valid for one family is often not adapted to another. It is therefore important to know the hydrangea that you buy or that you grow to avoid mistreating it.

There are hydrangeas for the sun, others for the shade, some which will have to be pruned and others for which you will not obtain flowers if you cut them...

La Thylle Nursery has between 300 and 400 varieties.

Discovering hydrangea varieties


The observation of the foliage allows to recognize the family: the members of the same family have the same leaves.
Examples

Hydrangea arborescens are characterized by rather dull foliage and fairly round leaves. They are generally installed in the sun.

The hydrangea that everyone knows, Hydrangea macrophylla, which has a large varnished leaf, must be installed in a confined atmosphere, protected from spring frosts.

The Hydrangea paniculata family, with an elliptical leaf, is also a hydrangea for the sun.

Hydrangea serrata are native to the mountains of Japan. Many members of this family have the particularity to have, in the absence of a long bloom, a foliage which takes sumptuous colors of autumn. This is the case of the variety 'Santiago', with its completely red foliage at the end of the season.

Pruning hydrangeas


It is important to know that the flower of H. macrophylla is already present "in" the plant, in winter (in fact, it forms at the end of August / September). So, if you prune it, you lose flowers. If your hydrangea "bush" is too big, for example positioned in front of a window, it is better to move it than to prune it.

On the other hand, H. Paniculata blooms on the year's wood. Also, to obtain large flowers, we cut back between mid-November and mid-March the two thirds of the stems which carried the flowers the year before.

This is also the case for Hydrangea arborescens.

How to feed hydrangeas?


Most hydrangeas have a superficial root system. They are therefore fed with compost in the spring and fall. There is no need to add any other fertilizer.

Can hydrangeas be grown in pots?


It depends on the hydrangea family. H. macrophylla can be grown in a pot but the roots, more exposed to the cold, will suffer in case of temperatures below -10°C.  H. paniculata is more resistant to frost.

Bonus


Thanks to its great diversity, the hydrangea can color your garden with its flowers and foliage all summer long, and most of the fall.

The Aralia elata, a plant with a tropical look resistant to the cold

Get to know Aralia elata better


Aralia elata, also known as Japanese Angelica, is a fast-growing plant native to Japan and Northeast Asia.

The variety 'Silver Umbrella' presented in the video was planted two years ago when it was only 50 cm tall, so it has tripled in height, producing a generous foliage carried by side branches that can reach up to 1 m long. An interesting way to create volume in a recent garden very quickly and to bring an exotic note by marrying the Aralia to a banana tree for example!


The young shoots appear in April. The foliage lasts until autumn. The summer flowering, very light and vaporous, is particularly appreciated by pollinating insects. The flowers are followed by blackish berries that birds love. This plant thus favors biodiversity in the garden.

The young shoots are edible and are eaten in Japan.

Growing conditions of the Japanese angelica


The aralia appreciates places protected from the prevailing wind and rich, cool soil. In these optimal conditions, this plant will not cause you any concern and will develop in an exuberant way.

Rusticity

Despite its tropical appearance, this beautiful plant is hardy to -15°C.

Exposure

The Aralia likes the sun in the northern regions, everywhere else, the shade and the half-shade are preferable especially in the Mediterranean regions where the sun could burn the foliage.

Soil

The soil should be well drained, light and fertile, add a good dose of river sand and mature compost at planting.

Watering

Water as soon as the soil dries on 3 cm surface during all the beautiful season to ensure a beautiful growth to the plant.

Multiplication

The variety 'Silver Umbrella' is quite rare because it is only multiplied by grafting a branch on a root. The technique is therefore reserved for professionals or seasoned gardeners.

The classic aralia with green leaves can be sown in spring, or even divided with a spade at the end of winter by taking shoots from the stump and replanting them immediately in another area of the garden.

The pheasant tree, growing tips

Leycesteria formosa 'Golden Lanterns


The pheasant tree, Leycesteria formosa, is a shrub whose typical species has green foliage. The variety 'Golden Lanterns' has beautiful golden foliage and produces young copper-colored shoots. The purple-purple fruits stand out from the light foliage; Leycesteria formosa 'Golden Lanterns' is a colorful shrub!

Attention: to obtain this golden foliage, a sunny exposure is necessary. It needs at least a semi-shaded situation, with morning sun, for example. If it does not receive enough sun, the foliage will be more green-yellow.

In a more general way, the pheasant tree is a plant that appreciates the sun. However, it is advisable to preserve it from too 'burning' exposures.

Beware of the cold!


Although native to the Himalayas, the pheasant tree can be damaged by cold winter temperatures. But don't worry: the flowering will not be compromised. Since the flowers are produced on the year's wood, you only need to cut back the stems for the plant to start again from the stump, to bloom all summer long.

Pruning the pheasant tree


To obtain an aesthetic and leafy plant, it is best to prune it. Pruning encourages branching and prevents the bottom from balding. Cut back the pheasant tree every year.

Where to put the pheasant tree?


The pheasant tree can be installed in the garden, in a fresh soil, as an isolated subject or associated with other plants. It is also possible to grow it in a pot, but you will have to be careful when the temperatures drop in winter, as the roots are more exposed to frost.

Note: the pheasant tree is not a plant adapted to gardens located in the South. On the other hand, it will do well in regions where rainfall is frequent.

Bonus


The pheasant tree loses its leaves in winter, but the stems remain green, which makes it aesthetically pleasing even in winter.

Why the pheasant tree?


This shrub was introduced, on the edge of the forest, especially in Sologne, to feed the pheasants, hence its name!

The art of Japanese pruning or Niwaki

The Japanese pruning or creation of a Niwaki is an ancestral art whose foundations come essentially from the Shinto cult "The Way of the Gods", which was maintained and transmitted from the 12th century by the Zen Buddhist gardening monks, and whose primary goal is to obtain an impression of maturity in a subject.

Originally, Niwaki evokes the imprint left on the vegetation by natural elements (wind, snow, frost...) or animals (cattle, insects...).

There are big nurseries in Japan, breeding and pruning this kind of trees, and they are passed on from generation to generation.

Among the different types of Japanese pruning (compact karikomi, in the form of large bushes kokarikomi or small bushes okarikomi, linear "in plateaus" or "in tiers"...) the "in clouds" pruning is intended to give a tabular vegetation - various shapes in multiple domes - aiming at reproducing distant landscape sites.

Niwaki allows to represent hills and valleys of the countryside, to evoke clouds hanging in the depth of a forest or a tree isolated in the plumb of a cliff, this in the Japanese garden where all the elements are used to reproduce the whole natural landscape in a small space, in order to sublimate its beauty.

Japanese pruning is for all varieties of trees (except the most slender ones such as candle cypress or poplar) and shrubs, whether deciduous or evergreen, and for all subjects, from the smallest raised in a pot - for those who would not be lucky enough to have a garden - to the one raised in the ground.

The edgeworthia, a shrub with an original branch that blooms in winter

The Edgeworthia: an original plant


The Edgeworthia (Edgeworthia chrysantha or Paper Bush) has a very particular, rather rare habit: each branch branches out into three branches. And when the plant is adult, it forms a perfect globe, very graphic.

During the month of January, the Edgeworthia opens its flowers which exhale a delicious perfume, like the other members of the Daphne family, to which it belongs.

The varieties of Edgeworthia


There are several varieties of Edgeworthia, including :
  • Edgeworthia chrysantha 'Nanjing Gold', yellow blooming ;
  • Edgeworthia chrysantha 'Akebono' or 'Red Dragon', with a red-orange bloom, a softer habit, and less graphic than 'Nanjing Gold' or the type.

Edgeworthia growing conditions

Soil

Edgeworthia are a bit demanding as to the nature of the soil that can accommodate them. They are plants that do not tolerate excess of water, nor big episodes of drought. They should therefore be planted in good garden soil and a good organic mulch (RCW, straw, lawn clippings) should be used to keep the plant cool at the foot of the plant and to encourage soil life.

Exposure

In regions with hot summers, choose a semi-shaded exposure (sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon).

In regions located further north (Brittany, Normandy, Hauts de France), it can be exposed to full sun.

Hardiness

The Edgeworthia resists to - 10°C.

Maintenance of Edgeworthia


It is very easy to maintain the Edgeworthia. Pruning is not necessary. It is a shrub that, once planted (with a contribution of compost) and well developed, will produce shoots from the base that should not be removed: this is the means of survival of the plant. After a few years, the main stem dies. The stems that appear at the base then take over.

Bonus: Edgeworthia have no known pests.

Multiplication of Edgeworthia


The propagation of Edgeworthia is quite complex. Professionals use an in vitro method under sterile conditions.

Tip: install the Edgeworthia near a place of passage to take advantage of the winter flowering.

The single-flowered Japanese cortea

Kerria japonica 'Golden Guinea': large, single flowers for the Japanese cornice


The pompom flowers of the Japanese headstock 'Pleniflora', a shrub of good size (3 meters high) and very suckering, are widely known in the gardens. But today, Patrick NICOLAS presents us a variety with simple and rather large flowers, which is called the single-flowered Japanese crested: Kerria japonica 'Golden Guinea'.

This variety is less tall and a little wider than Kerria japonica 'Pleniflora', since its adult size is between 1,50 m and 2 m. With a relatively light branching, less dense, allowing light to pass through, it has the advantage of allowing the planting of perennials around its foot.

Another important advantage is that Kerria japonica 'Golden Guinea' is a shrub that is certainly slightly suckering, but much less so than the Japanese cortea 'Pleniflora'.

The single flowered Japanese cortea: a shrub for the 4 seasons


Kerria japonica 'Golden Guinea' blooms in spring, with a late summer/early autumn repeat. Its foliage is deciduous, but its wood remains green, even in winter. Also, it remains very aesthetic regardless of the season.

Where to plant the Japanese cortea 'Golden Guinea'?


Soil: Kerria japonica 'Golden Guinea' is content with normal garden soil, which does not dry out too much during the summer.

Each year, bring compost to stimulate the growth of the branches and the blooming.

Exposure: preferably sunny but not hot, or, possibly, a very bright light shade.

Even if Kerria japonica 'Golden Guinea' can bear drought when it is temporary, avoid dry places in the garden.

Care of Kerria japonica 'Golden Guinea


A simple grooming pruning is enough for the Japanese cortea. It is limited to the removal, at the end of winter, of the small branches that dry out each year. New stems will grow from the base.

Kerria japonica 'Golden Guinea' is a cold-resistant shrub. However, if the tips of the stems turn brown due to very cold temperatures, it will be sufficient to prune them in the spring.

To know more 


There are also other species of Japanese cortea.
  • Kerria japonica, the typical botanical species, with smaller single flowers;
  • Kerria japonica 'Pleniflora', with pompon flowers;
  • Kerria japonica 'Alba', with cream-colored flowers.

Pruning of shrubs

Some shrubs need pruning but why, when and how to prune?

Why prune ?


Pruning allows you to put your shrubs back in shape and to limit the space occupied by them. In small gardens, it is sometimes necessary to be able to control the expansion of its plantations.

Pruning increases the branching of shrubs by causing new branches to appear under the cut and often improves flowering.

When should we prune?

Shrubs should be pruned at the end of winter, in February or March after heavy frosts, except for winter or spring flowering shrubs for which we will wait until the end of flowering. It would be a shame not to take advantage of them, especially since they have been chosen for their flowers.

For example, for spring or winter flowering shrubs, we can mention the laurel, the forsythia, the flowering currant, the Japanese quince, the Japanese cortea, the spring spirea...

Other shrubs do not need pruning or even would not tolerate it like the rhododendron, the azalea, the magnolia, the camellia or the skimmia. You can however remove the faded flowers.

How to prune?


For maintenance pruning, we distinguish evergreen shrubs from deciduous shrubs.

For deciduous shrubs such as hydrangea, lilac or seringat :
  • Remove dead or diseased branches and frost-burned branches.
  • Cut back unsightly branches
  • Cut off wilted flowers to prevent unnecessary fruit production
  • Cut the oldest branches at 5 cm from the ground to aerate your shrub and allow light to penetrate inside
  • Do a rejuvenation pruning
You can do a rejuvenation pruning every 3 or 4 years by cutting them back severely.

For evergreen shrubs such as laurel, cedar or yew:
  • Remove dead or diseased branches and frost-burned branches.
  • Cut back unsightly branches
  • Prune for shape

Pruning summer flowering shrubs

Summer flowering shrubs illuminate the garden with their bright colors throughout the summer and sometimes until the first frost. To take full advantage of their beauty, a few pruning steps must be taken.

The right time to prune


The majority of summer flowering shrubs have the particularity of flowering on the year's branches. Pruning at the end of winter will be beneficial because it encourages branching and the emission of new shoots that will then flower abundantly in summer. To make this possible, pruning should not be too late as it would compromise or delay flowering. The best time to prune these shrubs is in February or March, outside of the frost period, before vegetation starts to grow again on deciduous species.

How to prune summer flowering shrubs?


Protect yourself with gloves and use pruning shears and a lopper if the shrubs have branches with a larger diameter.

Training pruning

On young and newly planted shrubs, a so-called "training" pruning may be necessary. It stimulates the growth of the plant while giving it a harmonious shape. It consists in reducing the stems by half by pruning above an outward facing eye or to put in place the carpenter branches. Indeed, keeping a low framework on certain shrubs will allow to make a maintenance pruning much lighter in order to keep the volume of the plant. A common trunk will then carry 5 to 6 carpenters which will each divide into 2 or 3 branches. Young baguenaudier, deciduous ceanothus, Hydrangea paniculata or arborescens, Spanish broom or summer tamarisk are concerned by this pruning.

Maintenance pruning

This is the most frequent pruning which allows to stimulate the departure of new flower-bearing shoots. It consists of removing all dead, diseased or damaged branches at the base of the shrub and also clearing the center of the shrub in order to bring in a maximum of light. The shrub is then aerated, the light rays penetrate in its center and a good air circulation is maintained. Pests and diseases will be less frequent on a pruned shrub.

To finish your maintenance pruning, cut the ends of the branches for a few centimeters always above a bud turned towards the outside, in order to give an aesthetic shape to the shrub and to stimulate the growth of new shoots which will bloom as soon as the summer. At the same time, cut off the branches that flowered the previous year. This pruning can be done on most summer flowering shrubs such as Buddleia, ceanothea, hibiscus, perovskia, summer spirea, caryopteris, lavatera or altheas.

Rejuvenation pruning

This is done on aging shrubs that bloom less and less or on very weak subjects that are still growing despite optimal care.

This pruning consists in cutting the stems at 20 or 30 cm from the ground. Caryopteris, rustic fuschia, Leycesteria, Lespedeza, shrub sage, but also Perovskia can be pruned this way.

Pruning hydrangea flowers

The florist's hydrangea produces towering white, blue, purple or pink pompons depending on the variety and soil type. The timing of flower pruning has often been a subject of discussion among gardeners. Some choose to prune them after flowering, others insist on keeping them until the following spring. Who is right?

Pruning time, the big question...


The Hydrangea genus is divided into several species that can be found in the garden, including the famous Hydrangea macrophylla, better known as the florists' hydrangea. Cultivated in pots on a terrace or a balcony, it is also planted in the garden in a half-shaded place where it brings its note of romanticism thanks to its big pompons from July to October. The hydrangea appreciates soils with a rather acidic tendency, its flowers can moreover change color passing strangely from bright blue to pink in too calcareous soil.

The pruning of hydrangea flowers is generally done in spring after the last big cold in regions with a harsh climate, that is to say in March-April before the vegetation wakes up. Be careful, however, because this hydrangea blooms on the previous year's stems. If the pruning is too drastic, you risk not taking advantage of its beautiful summer bloom! It is therefore not advisable to prune all the stems, but rather to opt for a selection that will ensure the renewal of the shoots without sacrificing the flowers. In regions where snow and frost are not uncommon, faded flowers protect buds and young shoots from the cold. Another advantage: they cover themselves with frost, bringing a fairy note to the garden!

In the mildest regions, pruning can be done just at the end of the flowering period, so that the flowering branches have more time to form.

How to prune hydrangea flowers?

  1. In regions with mild winters, proceed at the end of the blooming period by pruning the end of the flowering stems at a bevel just above a pair of buds. You can prune up to 25 cm of stem to give a harmonious ball shape to your shrub. If the subject is very old and less floriferous from year to year, cut the oldest branches at their base just above an eye if possible directed towards the outside.
  2. In regions with harsh winters, cut off spent flowers by pruning just above the first bud below the flower when there is no risk of frost in spring. Don't prune too low or your hydrangea may not bloom that year!
In both cases, take the opportunity to remove dead or damaged branches and weak stems that are entangled in the center of the shrub in order to aerate it. This operation limits the installation of parasites which particularly appreciate the plant clutter.

Don't forget to sprinkle a mixture of compost and ground horn powder at the foot of your hydrangea after pruning, to help restart the vegetation.

Pruning small shrubs

Small shrubs generally require little pruning, but it is still useful to keep the plant in a harmonious shape and to prevent it from becoming bald. The removal of wilted flowers, dead or diseased branches will also be part of the program, your shrubs will be better off!

The different pruning methods used on small shrubs


The removal of dead wood or diseased branches can be done all year round, it can be completed by the removal of wilted flowers just after flowering. It consists of systematically cutting these parts down to the level of a healthy and full of life branch. Always cut above an eye or an outward facing shoot. This pruning can be done on the majority of shrubs and concerns in particular the lavenders which can be pruned in the shape of balls.

The removal of the old wood allows to aerate the plant while privileging the more recent branches which will thus receive an influx of sap and light and will be able to develop better. It is practiced at the beginning of spring towards the end of March and consists in cutting down between 3 and 5 cm from the ground the 3 years old branches which already carry lateral and sub-lateral branches. This operation concerns Berberis, cotoneaster, brooms, hydrangeas, shrubby veronicas and symphorines.

The limitation of the development is necessary on certain plants, in particular the climbing shrubs or with untidy port, which need to be contained not to invade all and to preserve a compact and pleasant port. These plants should be pruned just after flowering so as not to compromise the next year's flowering. It will be necessary to reduce the branches to the desired height, then remove the oldest stems to keep only the young clumps starting from the ground or from quite low on the old stems. This pruning is done on clematis, climbing hydrangeas, honeysuckles and Turkestan knotweed.

Cutting back is a drastic method that will only be practiced after several years on evergreen shrubs, when they start to recede from the base. This pruning will be done in spring on late flowering shrubs and in autumn on spring flowering shrubs. It consists in cutting all the aerial parts of the plant at about 15 cm from its base to keep only some main branches. A compost-based mulching will then be necessary as well as a contribution of fertilizer in order to ensure the recovery. The following are concerned: St. John's wort, dogwood which will provide beautiful colored stems, Leycesteria, Japanese spirea and santolin.

Small shrubs that bloom on the previous year's wood, such as Buddleia, deutzia, mahonia or weigelia will be pruned immediately after flowering. Pruning will help to maintain a harmonious shape and to obtain larger flowers but in lesser numbers. Stems that have flowered should be cut back just above an eye or new growth, taking care to keep a portion of the current year's branch.

Shrubs that bloom on the current year's stems, such as Buddleia davidii, caryopsis or fuchsia, can be pruned shorter as soon as new leaves appear. Prune all the previous year's stems at 3 eyes from their junction with the old wood that should always be kept.

Pruning the oleander

The oleander can be led in hedges, isolated subject or even in tree. In the coolest regions, it will be grown in pots under cover. Whatever its use, adequate pruning will be required to get the best out of this fantastic plant.

General information about pruning the oleander


The oleander is a beautiful, naturally bushy shrub that grows beautifully when cultivated in an optimal way. For this, it needs heat, sun and water. Once these parameters are required, it will be appropriate to prune it, knowing that this type of shrub only flowers on the most recent branches. A too drastic pruning will therefore logically compromise the next flowering.

Pruning should only be done on subjects older than 5 years, and only every other year or even every third year, except in the case of the formation of a shrub on a stem which will require the removal of shoots and lateral branches every year.

The different types of pruning


Depending on its use, the laurel can be pruned in various ways but always respecting the principle that this operation must be carried out with care and at the right time.

Stem pruning

A beautiful oleander pruned into a stem will later become a very ornamental flowering tree. To achieve this, it is necessary to prune all the peripheral branches as well as the lateral branches every year in order to keep only the main stem which will grow to become a powerful trunk. This technique is ideal in the gardens of the South of France where the subject will have all the necessary conditions to develop well.

Pruning the bushy oleander

As we have seen, the laurel tends to grow very freely in the form of a spreading bush. The goal will be both to clear the center of the shrub and to reduce its spread. The best time is after flowering in the warmer regions, or in April everywhere else.

Proceed on a subject at least 5 years old. Using the lopper, prune all dead branches at the base. Remove also in the center of the clump the branches which cross in order to let penetrate the light and the air to the maximum in the plant and thus to avoid the installation of parasites. Then cut the end of the oldest stems on 1/3 just above a pair of leaves.

Try to keep a maximum of branches from the previous year to be assured of a beautiful bloom. It is generally recommended to prune only 1/3 of the existing stems per year. Rotate the pruning in the following years in order to keep the shrub in good shape while ensuring future flowering.

Pruning oleanders in hedges

A common mistake is to prune oleanders drastically each year to obtain a straight hedge. However, all the interest of this type of hedge lies in its wild and flowery side during nearly 6 months. The same advice as for the pruning of the bushy laurel will therefore be applied to the hedges so that they are both full and offer an opulent bloom.

Pruning oleander in a container

The purpose of this pruning is to maintain a compact subject in order to winter it easily indoors. Prune in autumn, just after flowering. Remove the dead branches or those that cross and reduce the plant in width and height, but always keeping if possible the branches of the previous year on which the flowers will be formed.

The size of the lilac

The lilac is a shrub that gives off sublime fragrances in spring. However, its pruning is subject to controversy, with some gardeners insisting that it should be pruned only rarely and very lightly, while others do not hesitate to prune it back. Wouldn't the middle way be the best solution?

When to prune lilac?


The lilac can be pruned in two stages: in spring just after flowering to remove the faded flower clusters, then in autumn or winter for maintenance and cleaning. Note that this type of pruning will not be done on a young subject that is still too sparse. Wait at least 4 years after planting to consider a thinning out or a 'transparent' pruning.

Be careful, the lilac blooms on the previous year's shoots, if you prune too short and without restriction late in the fall or winter, you risk not enjoying its flowers the following spring!

How to prune lilac after flowering?


Use pruning shears whose blades have been disinfected beforehand (methylated spirits, flame...) and sharpened to ensure a clean and straight cut.

Just after flowering, cut back the deflowered stems by cutting just above the first big bud present under the flowering stem. Cut neatly, beveling away from the bud so that rainwater does not run directly onto it but on the other side. The bud will have time to develop and form a flowering stem for the following spring.

How do I do a cleaning pruning on the lilac?


As we have seen above, this pruning should only be considered on an old subject whose structure needs to be aerated.

Take a pruning shears whose blades will have been disinfected and well sharpened beforehand.
  • In the fall or winter, cut back ¼ of the oldest stems at the base of the plant. This operation will encourage the birth of new stems while preserving enough branches to obtain a beautiful bloom.
  • Take the opportunity to remove all the dead wood and branches that cross in the center of the shrub. The silhouette will thus be aerated and the shrub will be less prone to harboring pests. Better ventilated, the lilac will also be less likely to suffer from diseases.
  • Cut off any suckers at their base.

How to prune lilacs back?


Rejuvenation pruning can be considered for very old trees that are not flowering well and have a gangly habit. This pruning is done at the end of winter in March or even a little earlier in the mildest regions, just before budburst.
  • Take a pruning shears or a hand saw. Do not forget to sharpen and disinfect the blades beforehand.
  • Remove all dead branches at their base and 1/3 of the oldest branches.
  • Cut back the other branches to 30 cm from the ground by pruning just above a bulge in the bark (bud) facing outwards.

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