Cutting the Pink Laurel

Emblem of the Mediterranean gardens that it adorns with its abundant and fragrant flowering during long months, the pink Laurel (Nerium oleander) is a plant easy to multiply by cuttings. A wide range of colors is available: from pure white to crimson red, through all shades of pink or the rarer and more fragile pale yellow. From cultivars with very double flowers, with a sweet almond scent, to species with yellow variegated foliage, you will be spoilt for choice!

How and when to proceed?

In spring or early summer, take a terminal branch of about 20 centimeters long from a healthy plant, free of parasites or diseases, and cut it at an angle. Then remove all the leaves from the stem, leaving only the two terminal leaves. The flowers should also be removed.

This operation called cutting can be done on a herbaceous stem or a semi-arched stem, later in the season. In the Mediterranean area, you can take advantage of the post-flowering pruning to recover the stems to be cut.

Methods of taking cuttings from the rose laurel

Two very simple methods are available to you:

Cutting in the ground is an easy method; plant the stem in a pot deep enough to bury a good half of it.

The substrate should be light, composed of equal parts of river sand and good potting soil. Place your cuttings in a warm, clear place sheltered from drying winds.

Avoid full sun until the growth is effective and never let the mixture dry too much. If you take the cutting at the end of autumn, cover it with a transparent plastic bag (like a freezer bag) that you will keep closed with a rubber band around the pot. This will keep the plant warm and moist.

You can then introduce the plant in the garden as soon as the weather is fine, when any risk of frost is eliminated. Water copiously the first three years and do not hesitate to prune drastically at the end of autumn to induce the formation of new stems as of the following spring.

Cutting in water is the easiest and most fun to do.

Simply place several stems in a bottle cut three-quarters of the way through and wait for roots to form. You will find that competition can be beneficial and that it often takes longer for a single cutting to root than several stems together. To keep the water odor-free, place a small piece of charcoal at the bottom of the bottle to prevent rotting. Remember to add water if evaporation is too strong and place your bottle in a shady area. Wait a fortnight: the roots should appear.

Once the roots are well developed (about two months) you can install the plants in individual pots. Act with care because the roots produced in water are fragile and breakable. Install them in a light substrate composed of 2/3 of good potting soil and 1/3 of river sand. Keep the plants frost-free during the winter, you will install them in the ground only in May.

The autumn camellia, growing tips

It is quite possible to see camellias in bloom during the month of November.

But not just any camellia. They are Camellia sasanqua, more commonly known as autumn camellias. Some varieties are double flowered. Among the beautiful single-flowered varieties are :

• Camellia sasanqua 'Narumigata': this is an autumn camellia with single white flowers.
• Camellia sasanqua 'Papaver' (the flower looks like a poppy): it is an autumn camellia with light pink single flowers.

Bonus: Autumn camellias grow rather fast, up to 3 to 4 meters high.

Interests of the autumn camellias

On the one hand, the bloom of the Camellia sasanqua is rather long (one and a half to two months) at a time when few plants are in bloom in the garden.

On the other hand, the flowers of Camellia sasanqua are pleasantly scented.

Growing requirements for fall camellias

Autumn camellias grow on draining and acid soils (pH< 7).

On neutral to calcareous soils, their cultivation is more complicated or even impossible for calcareous soils.

Autumn camellias are among the few camellias that can be planted in the sun. It is also important to know that when temperatures become too cold, below -10°C, the trees suffer and produce a poor bloom the following year. The climates of Brittany, Normandy and the Médoc are therefore suitable for their cultivation.

Planting autumn camellias

Delicate, the autumn camellias are a bit delicate, but on the other hand their planting is within the reach of any beginner gardener. For a root ball of 80 cm in diameter, dig a hole of 1.20 meters in diameter and position the subject in the center.

As the Autumn Camellia is an evergreen and autumn flowering tree, the ideal planting period is in spring.

Care of the fall camellia

Autumn camellias require very little maintenance.

However, you should watch out for the development of smoke; it is unsightly but not very dangerous for the plant and can be treated very easily.

Japanese dwarf cherry tree, growing tips

An ornamental cherry tree

The Japanese dwarf cherry tree (Prunus incisa) is a flowering cherry tree that blooms at the very beginning of spring, from the end of March, beginning of April. If the weather is favorable, without too much rain, the bloom can last for about 3 weeks to 1 month. It does not produce fruit; it is only an ornamental variety.

The Japanese dwarf cherry is a shrub with a twisted wood that grows quite slowly. Its adult size reaches 2 to 2.5 meters high. It is perfect for small gardens or to be grown in a container on a terrace.

The needs of the dwarf Japanese cherry tree

The dwarf Japanese cherry does not like wet soil. It should therefore be planted in a draining soil (sandy or loamy soil). If necessary, add sand at planting time to improve drainage.

The recommended exposure is sun or half-shade, but avoid shade so that it can flower properly.

The cultivation of the Japanese dwarf cherry tree does not require any particular fertilizer. The installation of a mulch composed of wood chips will be enough to maintain the natural humus of the soil, when it will decompose.

Hardiness of the dwarf Japanese cherry

The dwarf Japanese cherry has a very good resistance to cold. It is a hardy deciduous tree, like most deciduous trees. Only the trees planted in containers or pots require winter protection. It consists in protecting the pot, and thus the stump, from freezing.

Pruning the Japanese dwarf cherry tree

As with many other plants, Dauguet Nurseries strongly advises against pruning the Japanese dwarf cherry tree, except, possibly, to make a training pruning when branches develop in a too anarchic way. But this is the only pruning necessary: it should be left to grow on its own. In any case, as it is a slow growing shrub, the Japanese dwarf cherry tree will never be invasive.

One exception: if you want to create a vine-like shrub, you can prune the Japanese cherry slightly at the base. This shape suits its twisted branches well.

The Asian dogwood

The Asian dogwood rather than the American dogwood

There is a difference between American dogwoods and Asian dogwoods. American dogwoods have an extraordinary bloom in April. Unfortunately, here, they have caught a disease called anthracnose which is devastating to the foliage. The Domaine des Rochettes has therefore decided to stop selling them, in favor of Asian dogwoods.

Cornus kousa var. chinensis is a dogwood on which many other dogwoods are grafted. It has a beautiful white bloom, even pink for some cultivars. It also has the advantage of not being sensitive to anthracnose.

Portrait of the Asian dogwood

The Asian dogwood is a small shrub that grows up to 3 or 4 meters high, although we find subjects of 5 to 6 meters in English botanical parks.

It is a deciduous tree which starts to grow in April, and which blooms for a month and a half, from May to mid-June. It has quite extraordinary autumnal colors; as soon as a sunbeam illuminates its foliage, we obtain pink to red tones, with a little yellow or green hues.

Today, it can be found almost everywhere in France, in all nurseries, or specialized garden centers, whereas 10 years ago, it was more difficult to get one.

The culture of the Asian dogwood

The Asian dogwood is a tree that likes cool soils and sunny exposures, possibly slightly shaded.

The most important thing is not to install it on a calcareous ground. If you plant a young tree, the soil should be acidic. But if you plant it when it is already adult, a neutral soil will be appropriate.

The Asian dogwood also needs space and light so that it can grow in all directions and become a beautiful spreading tree.

A location sheltered from cool winds is desirable. It should be remembered that the dogwood is the classic tree of English gardens, which are relatively protected gardens, and where temperatures do not fall too low (with almost no frost).

The pruning of the Asian dogwood

From a maintenance point of view, the dogwood is a tree of choice, as it requires no maintenance. You can always remove a branch that does not suit you, but overall, it is a fairly homogeneous tree whose branches grow a little in all directions, giving it its very pretty silhouette.

Planting the Asian dogwood

Planting a young dogwood does not pose any particular problem. On the other hand, if you buy it of adult size (3 m high for 3 m wide), not only you will not be able to plant it alone, but moreover it will be necessary to place its root ball of 1 meter in diameter for 50 cm in height in a hole of 1,40 m in diameter.

Its root system remains confined in its root ball: it does not spread and, at the time of the plantation, the cut of the roots remains little important.

The planting of the Asian dogwood is ideally done in the fall, but the planting period can run until March 15. However, the longer the winter rest, the better the tree will do when it is time to recover.

The rustic fuchsia

Fuchsia: a food plant

When we talk about food plants (interesting for all the inhabitants of the garden, like insects and birds), we often forget to talk about fuchsia. However, it is a plant that will interest many insects, on the one hand in summer, but also in late season. Indeed, the flowering of fuchsia will last until the first frosts, which can take us sometimes until late November or early December.

Hardy fuchsias

Hardy fuchsias are simple to grow. It is not necessary to bring them in during the winter, even if it is very cold (however, it is preferable to install a protection the first few winters). The mother plants of the nursery have already faced very low temperatures (-21°C), without protection.

Fuchsias and the sun

The sunnier the season, the longer and more important the flowering. Contrary to what has been assumed for a long time, the fuchsia is more of a semi-shade plant than a shade plant, because, of course, it needs coolness, but it also needs sun for its flowering.

Small and large hardy fuchsias

Hardy fuchsias offer a wide variety of plants, with small fuchsias that are no more than 60 cm tall and others that can reach 2.50 m tall.

In fact, the size of the fuchsia depends on the previous winter: the harsher the winter, the more necessary it is to cut back the branches that have taken the cold, while following a mild winter, the cuts are very light.

Two varieties of hardy fuchsias in the spotlight

• The fuchsia "Ville de Rocquencour" (French obtention, as its name suggests): a very decorative fuchsia, 70 cm high, is very well adapted to small gardens, to the front of flowerbeds, or to pots on balconies and terraces. Its flowering is long and beautiful, with its petals curved upwards and its long hanging stigmas.
• Magellanic fuchsia (Fuchsia riccartonii): the other name of this fuchsia is oat grain, referring to its small, long, hanging flower resembling an ear of oats. In some years, when the winter has been mild, this fuchsia can reach 1,50 m to 2 m. It is a fuchsia that can be installed in a shrubbery or as an isolated plant.

The winged charcoal, growing tips

Charcoal trees are numerous in Europe, but also in the world: they can be found on all continents. They are often found under the name "Bishop's cap".

A winged charcoal

The charcoal presented by Nicolas Hennebelle is called winged charcoal and its scientific name is Euonymus alatus. The explanation of its name comes simply from the physiognomy of its branches. Indeed, if you observe it a little more closely you will notice that its branches have small corky wings which are very decorative, especially in winter, when the foliage has fallen (the winged fusain is a deciduous shrub), revealing the whole structure of the tree.

The winged charcoal: the king of autumn

In autumn, the winged charcoal takes on its full importance: its green foliage gradually turns pink and red, illuminating the entire garden.

However, to obtain these beautiful fall colors, the winged charcoal needs light. It must therefore be planted in full sun, or even under a light shade.

In a country hedge or a shrubbery, the winged fusain blends very well with other shrubs with colored foliage, such as the blood dogwood whose yellow foliage offers a beautiful contrast with the reddish pink leaves of Euonymus alatus.

The winged fusain: an easy-to-grow shrub

The winged fusain is an easy tree to live with. It adapts to many situations and supports all types of soil. It even grows on limestone soils. The only fear that it can have concerns wet soils: stagnant water is the enemy of its small roots.

The winged fusain can be pruned; but knowing that it is a shrub of rather slow growth and that its size remains modest (its adult dimensions are 2 meters high and 2 meters wide), it is hardly necessary, nor even advised.

The winged charcoal: a shrub for small gardens

Because of its small size, Euonymus alatus is a perfect shrub for small gardens.

There is another fusain that looks very similar to it but with a more compact habit: Euonymus compactus. The only difference with Euonymus alatus is that the wings of Euonymus compactus are a little less developed.

The oleander

Oleanders: cold-resistant species

The oleander, belonging to the genus Nerium, is a plant native to North Africa.

If some varieties are not very hardy (they are generally classified in the list of plants called "orangery", there are oleanders that can withstand up to -15 ° C and whose aerial parts, ie the foliage and buds, are damaged only below -10 ° C. This is the case, for example, of the oleander 'Louis Pouget' which is also very fragrant, of 'Mrs Roeding' (triple fragrant flowers, salmon pink with white), of 'Cavalaire' (double bright pink flowers), of 'Villa romaine' (reputed to be the most resistant to cold), ...

Dimensions of oleanders

Planted in a sunny spot, these oleanders can reach a height of one and a half meters or even two meters and just as much width; you have to take this into account when choosing their planting place because they take up a certain amount of space!

However, there are dwarf species among the hardy ones that are no more than one meter high, as is the case with 'Petite Red', which is between 60 and 80 cm high.

Growing fragile species in pots

The non-hardy varieties of oleander (frosty at -5°C) are usually grown in pots. To obtain a beautiful bloom, it is necessary to offer them a lot of water during summer as well as a fertilizer rich in potassium.

In winter, we take care to install them in a slightly enlightened, fresh and frost-free room (between 5 and 10°C). Watering is strongly reduced.

Pruning oleanders

The oleander emits vigorous shoots which grow quickly. It is therefore necessary to cut them back after the winter, around April-May when vegetation starts again, to keep the harmonious and rounded shape of the oleander.

Be careful not to cut the branches too short: large stems would develop to the detriment of the flowering. However, there is a downside to this principle: from time to time, it is necessary to sacrifice a flowering and to cut back the oleander in order to prevent the plant from becoming bald.

The oleander, an air of vacation

During a vacation in Brittany or in the Mediterranean basin, who hasn't fallen in love with the splendid flowering of the oleander? Bringing back a cutting is very tempting, but you will have to know how to acclimatize this frileuse to see it grow.

The oleander, a perfume from elsewhere...

As a shrub or as a tree with a real trunk, the oleander is one of those plants that inspire vacations. Crossed with the liking of the strolls on the littorals where the climate remains soft all the year, this shrub evokes the joys of idleness and the evenings spent under its delicate scents. Because in addition to being beautiful, the oleander distils a sweet fragrance mixing almond and vanilla.

At the roadside, it takes the place of the usual plane trees and other trees of alignment in some villages of the extreme South. Another advantage is that it blooms continuously from June to October, which makes it an outstanding ornamental subject.

In Mediterranean gardens, it is used to compose hedges to nicely underline a fence or to shelter from prying eyes around a swimming pool. Pruned as a tree, it is an unparalleled ornamental subject on a lawn.

It embellishes the backgrounds of beds with its beauty and blends in with rhododendrons and azaleas to relay their blooms in Breton gardens. The temptation is therefore great to cut it or to buy a subject in a garden center or at a plant festival...

An oleander in the North ?

The oleander (Nerium oleander) is native to the Mediterranean basin where it grows spontaneously at the foot of waterways. This is why a newly planted subject will need regular watering, especially in hot regions, contrary to what may be said here and there! Once well installed, it supports the heat and the dryness without concern.

The oleander is a cold plant that does not tolerate frost except very occasionally, for a short time and of low amplitude. Its planting in the open ground in the North and in mountainous regions is therefore not recommended. It is preferable to plant it in pots in order to be able to overwinter it in a greenhouse, veranda or winter garden as soon as the first frosts arrive.

The typical species with single pink flowers resists a little better to the cold than the cultivars with very double flowers. The yellow (very rare) and salmon colors are much more fragile and therefore to be avoided in the coldest regions under penalty of disappointment.

To obtain an opulent bloom, place your oleander in full sun and in the warmest place of your garden or balcony.  Water it very often, especially in summer.

Prune the oleander with moderation because it produces its flowers on the previous year's wood. However, if you want to contain it, prune it just after flowering, keeping some branches intact.

The sarcococca, a shrub with very fragrant flowers in winter

The scent of the sarcococca

The sarcococca is an Asian evergreen shrub that reminds us of the box tree (they both belong to the same family Buxaceae). Its beautiful dark green and shiny foliage, made of small lanceolate leaves, is therefore decorative all year long. But this is not its only interest. The sarcococca also blooms in winter, producing apetal flowers with very developed white stamens and a very pleasant perfume that spreads all around it, on a perimeter of 1,50 to 2 m, even when it is cold. It is therefore interesting to install it near the entrance door.

Where to plant this shrub ?

The sarcococca is best planted in a semi-shaded area, especially south of the Loire where it has difficulty withstanding the hot sun. However, in Normandy, Brittany or in regions where summers are more temperate, it is possible to plant it under a full sun exposure.

To know: the sarcococca is quite resistant to dryness.

How to care for the sarcococca ?

The sarcococca is an easy plant to live with. On the one hand, because it has no known pests or diseases. On the other hand, it has a cespitose port; that is to say that over the years, it will emit new shoots from the base. The clump will thus widen little by little, forming a beautiful rounded shrub without the need to prune it.

The hardiness of the sarcococca

The sarcococca resists without problem to cold temperatures close to -15°C. It can therefore be planted in any season. However, if the plantation is done in spring or summer, it is necessary to think of watering it.

The plantation of the sarcococcus

The sarcococca appreciates rather rich soil (on sandy soil, it tends to yellow). After planting, mulch the soil to keep it fresh. Use an organic mulch (RCW, lawn clippings, straw) which, as it decomposes, will nourish the soil and the plant.

The multiplication of the sarcococca

After a few years of cultivation, the shrub produces fruits, pretty round drupes, first blood-red, then black, which, falling on the ground, will sow themselves to give birth to new small sarcococcas that can be transplanted or given to your friends!

Proper planting distances for trees and shrubs

We rarely ask ourselves the question of the development of a plant when it is planted. Whether planted alone near a building or in a hedge, trees and shrubs must have enough space to grow and not cause any damage.

Trees with large development

Would you like to adorn the front of that old wall with the silhouette of a majestic tree? Be careful, some species will undoubtedly lend themselves to this, but others should be avoided. Let's take the simple image of an iceberg: the emerged surface represents only a part of the existing... For trees it is the same thing! Some of them develop a root system so important that it represents twice the volume of the foliage!

Generally speaking, plan to plant large trees such as oaks, plane trees, pines or cedars at a minimum distance of 10 meters from any concrete construction. Only trellised pear or apple trees and, of course, climbing plants will be able to adorn your old wall in complete safety.

Similarly, certain trees that produce suckers should be avoided near buildings, such as mahonia, locust trees or even certain poplars whose roots can slip under the structures.

Let's not forget either that a large tree weakened by a storm can become dangerous and that falling branches are not rare. Some trees are more susceptible than others. So never plant a walnut, a poplar, a eucalyptus or an ash tree, not far from a veranda or a roof.

The same goes for drains and septic tanks, which should always be kept away from future plantings because the roots looking for water could very well make them explode.

Medium-sized trees

The planting distance will be a little shorter for medium-sized trees such as the plane tree, the hornbeam or the Judas tree. For these plants, leave a space of 5 meters from a building. Beware of the fig tree, which under its harmless appearance, has intrusive roots that play on any masonry element with disconcerting efficiency.

Don't imagine that you can stop tree roots with anti-rhizome barriers like those used to control bamboo! Much deeper and more intrusive, tree roots will be totally insensitive to them. It is therefore better to respect the right distances.

Ornamental shrubs

Forsythia, lilac, seringat, buddleia and other weigleias are very appreciated for their decorative flowers. For them to grow well, leave a distance of 1.20m on all sides around the shrub so that it can benefit from both the light and the ventilation necessary for its good health. In beds, bush roses should be spaced 80 cm apart.

The heathers

The heathers of the genus Erica

The heathers of the genus Erica are :

• winter flowering heathers, such as Erica x darleyensis and Erica carnea ;
• summer flowering heathers with, for example, Erica vagans or Erica cinerea;
• shrubby heathers with Erica arborea, Erica Erigena (this is a heather that is not very common in gardens but which can grow up to 60 cm and flowers from autumn to winter) and Erica scoparia (the broom heather), including Erica scoparia ssp Azorica, with its luminous green foliage and spiral shape.
• The heathers of the genus Calluna
• The genus Calluna includes mainly summer flowering heathers with different colors of foliage and flowers. The height of the callunas is variable; while some reach 50 cm high, others, carpeting, do not exceed 15 cm.

The heathers of the genus Daboecia

The leafy heathers belong to the genus Daboecia. Daboecia x scotica 'Silverwells' is a small heather (15 cm) very floriferous which forms very big white bell-shaped flowers.

Cultivation needs of heathers

Generally, the heathers are happy in a peaty, light, fresh soil, with a rather acidic pH (around 6,5). However, Erica cinerea behaves as well in sandy soil, a little drier, just like the broom heather.

The maintenance of the heathers is simple: an annual pruning is carried out during the first two weeks of April. The heathers of the Calluna genus are simply cut back, under the flowering.

The multiplication of heathers

The heathers multiply by cuttings or by sowing.

Erica carnea multiplies naturally thanks to its horizontal branches which marcott when they develop on a light soil.

Companion plants for heathers

To accompany heathers in the garden, choose shrubs with spring flowers or colored foliage, such as Diervilla x splendens, a shrub with red autumn foliage, very resistant and which supports all exposures and all soils. It tends to form a clump that is wider (3 meters) than tall (2 meters). Planted in a group and accompanied in front by tree heathers, you will obtain a nice bed.

The camellias

The camellia, which is a shrub that can reach 5 to 6 meters in height, is rather a plant of undergrowth, which appreciates semi-shaded situations.

There are many species, the best known of which is Camellia japonica. Camellia sasanqua, Camellia x williamsii, Camellia reticulata and all the hybrids from these four original species arrived after the war.

Some varieties of camellias

Among the Camellia japonica :

• Camellia japonica 'Adolphe Audusson', the most widespread of the French camellias. The example shown is a stemmed camellia, but most camellias are shrubby, with branches present from the base of the trunk.
• Camellia japonica 'Abbé de Beaumont', a very old variety with large late pink flowers.
• Among the hybrids :
• Camellia 'Freedom Bell', a very long flowering camellia with a semi-double flower.
• Planting advice
• The camellia is a heathland plant that grows on rather acid soils. In Brittany, where soils are generally acid, fill the first half of the planting hole with original soil, and the second half with a mixture of 1/3 heather soil and 2/3 original soil.
• In rather calcareous grounds, it is necessary to fill the holes of plantation with soil of heather, only.
• The exposure is also an important element to take into account during the plantation. The camellia is a mid-shade plant, so it should be placed if possible in the north, or east, so that it is in the shade in summer and that, in winter, it thaws slowly.

Camellia maintenance

Although it grows slowly, the camellia may need to be pruned after a few years, which it does very well.

However, it is important to be able to prune it before it starts to grow again in spring. If you prune too late, when the vegetation has restarted, the coming flowering will be inhibited.

Camellia diseases and pests

Camellias can be victims of mealy bugs and fumagine. If their presence has an obvious aesthetic impact, it does not affect the health of the camellia.

To eliminate mealy bugs, spray white oil under the leaves; this is where they are found. Take action as soon as you see a little black on the leaves.

Camellia, a plant of patience

The camellia needs a certain number of years of cultivation to reach an interesting volume. A plant that can be found on sale is between 5 and 10 years old, or even more (up to 15 years).

Decorative flowering dogwoods

With these dogwoods we will speak rather of inflorescences than of flowers in the botanical sense of the term because the flowers themselves are insignificant. It is the whole formed by the flowers and the bracts which is ornamental on the dogwoods.

On the dogwoods with decorative flowers, the inflorescences appear in spring or in summer, which allows, by varying the species, to extend the flowering period. All dogwoods then bear fruits that are more or less attractive and sometimes even edible.

• The strawberry dogwood (Cornus capitata) owes its name to its large spherical fruits that look like strawberries in the fall. This bushy shrub can reach a height of 12 m for as much spread, so it is to be reserved for large gardens!

Native to China and the Himalayas, it is covered with creamy white or yellowish bracts in summer.

• The flowering dogwood (Cornus florida) is a shrub that can reach 8 m in height. Its conical habit is one of its assets, completed by its white inflorescences in 'Cherokee Princess' or 'White Cloud', bright pink in 'Cherokee Chief', 'Welchii' or 'Rubra' or yellow in 'Hohman's Gold'. The leaves of this beautiful shrub turn crimson red in the fall, which adds to its charm.
• Cornus Kousa, is not to be outdone in terms of flowering, since this shrub with a conical shape and a cracked trunk is covered with white inflorescences in June on the typical species, but which can be yellowish on 'China girl' or bright pink on the variety 'Satomii'. This species includes many cultivars with variegated foliage, which does not spoil anything!
• Cornus nuttallii also has a conical habit and can reach up to 12 m in height. It is covered with beautiful white inflorescences, sometimes tinged with pink in spring. The variety 'Colrigo Giant' has large creamy white inflorescences resembling buttercup flowers.
• Cornus Porlock is prized for its spreading habit. This imposing tree can reach 10 m in height and 5 m in spread and presents white bracts turning to salmon pink in May.

Planting decorative dogwoods

The planting of flowering dogwoods is a little more delicate than that of other species because some of them require an acid, fertile, humusy and very well drained soil. This is the case of Cornus capitata, Cornus florida and Cornus nuttallii. Beware of Cornus Canadensis which only tolerates very acid and humid soils!

Daphnes, shrubs with an extraordinary fragrance

Varieties of Daphne

Daphnes, most of which come from Asia, are plants known for their extraordinary fragrance.

Among them, we find in particular :

• Daphne odora: the most classic and most fragrant of the daphnes; the one from our grandmothers' gardens. The most sold variety is Daphne odora 'Aureomarginata', with leaves edged with a small yellow border.
• Daphne 'Perfume Princess': a hybrid daphne that appeared a few years ago and is gaining recognition for its larger flowers, longer blooming time and interesting citrus scent. Another advantage is its resistance to sudden dieback.
• Daphne 'Eternal Fragrance' and Daphne 'Pink Fragrance' are English varieties with white flowers for the first one, and with pink-purple flowers for the second one. Their perfume is not comparable to the first two daphnes. On the other hand, their flowering is very long (3 to 4 months, even more) and they are also small shrubs less complicated to grow than Daphne odora.

The culture of Daphne

Daphne are known to be difficult to grow. Even at the nursery, it is sometimes difficult to keep beautiful Daphnes in pots. The problem comes from a fungus present in the soil, belonging to the Phytophthora family which, when a plant is stressed, will be able to penetrate the roots, block the whole vascular system of the plant and prevent the sap from circulating. The affected daphne will wither in two or three days, often at the first heat stroke.

The stress which weakens the plant at the beginning is often due to the excess of water which asphyxiates the roots. Degraded, they then let in the fungi.

To avoid that, it is necessary to cultivate the daphne in a light but rich and fresh soil, of forest type. On clay soil, it is recommended to plant the daphne on a mound, to mulch the soil with an organic mulch (lawn clippings, RCW, straw) to keep it fresh and, when planting, to make good amendments such as compost.

The ideal exposure for daphnes

• In regions with hot summers, prefer half-shade (sun in the morning, shade in the afternoon), or even total shade.
• In regions where summer temperatures do not exceed 25°C, it is possible to expose them to full sun.

The dimensions of the daphne

• Daphne odora 'Aureomarginata' : shrub of 80 cm high;
• Daphne 'Perfume Princess' : 1,20 high ;
• Daphne 'Eternal Fragrance' and Daphne 'Pink Fragrance': dome-shaped shrubs which, at the age of 5 to 7 years, will measure 70 cm high with a 70 cm spread.

Maintenance of Daphne

Daphnes grow rather slowly. They do not require any particular maintenance. In the middle of winter, don't hesitate to make bouquets with 2 or 3 branches.

Note: Daphne wood is toxic (few pests).

Multiplication of Daphne

You can take cuttings from unprotected varieties (without patent), such as Daphne odora. Proceed in early autumn. Be careful, transplanting is delicate; do it in early spring.

Grevilleas, growing tips

Grevilleas have a strong point: they bloom almost all year round. You can have flowers from March to June/July and from September to November.

There are varieties with large red flowers but also varieties with much smaller flowers.

All Grevilleas are evergreen shrubs, very easy to grow.

The variety shown can grow to about 2 m high and 2.50 m wide, if grown in the ground. Often, Grevilleas are wider than they are tall.

Pot cultivation is possible but gives smaller subjects than in the open ground: 1.80 m high for 1.25 to 1.50 m wide.

When should I prune my Grevilleas?

The question is not insignificant, considering its long flowering period.

In fact, it is enough to intervene as soon as a flowering ends, whatever the time of the year. Take advantage of this to give it a rounded shape, always pruning after a leaf or after a young shoot.

Low maintenance for Grevilleas

Grevilleas are Australian plants that require little maintenance.

For one thing, they are very drought resistant once they are well established.

On the other hand, they do not require any fertilizer. Indeed, most plants from Australia do not like phosphorus. Since our fertilizers often include a portion of phosphorus, we do not fertilize!

For a culture in pot, the mixture to offer to its grévilléa is simple: compost, heather soil, and a little vegetable soil to give a little more body to the mixture and to avoid that it is too draining. The whole thing is placed on a bed of clay or pozzolan balls placed at the bottom of the pot, for drainage.

Grevilleas are not very hardy

The hardiness of Grevilleas is around -5 / -8°C. In the Paris region, it is therefore grown in pots rather than in the ground.

If you have a sheltered terrace, it is not necessarily necessary to bring it inside during winter, the ideal being to have an unheated veranda.

Watering for potted plants

In summer, it is necessary to water every two days and, in winter, once a week minimum. Unlike Mediterranean plants, we do not wait for the soil to dry out; the substrate must always be slightly humid.

Perennial and hardy hibiscus

The vast genus Hibiscus is divided into nearly 200 species, some of which are perennial and hardy. These hibiscus can be planted in the garden and bloom even more abundantly each year. Discover them...

The hardy shrubby hibiscus

Shrubby hibiscus grow on woody stems that remain in place from one year to the next. Very hardy (-15 °C), tolerant of all kinds of soil, even limestone, they are wonderful in mixed hedges, at the bottom of a bed, or as an isolated subject on a lawn.

Hibiscus syriacus, also known as 'Tree Mallow' or 'Althea' is an upright shrub with dark green deciduous leaves. This species is native to an area stretching from India to China, where it can grow to nearly 3 meters in height and 2 meters in spread. The dark pink flowers with purple center in corollas of 8 cm in diameter follow one another without interruption from July to the first frost. Innumerable varieties have been created, with double flowers as in 'Jeanne d'Arc' of white color or 'Leopoldii' pink spotted with red. The most classic single flowered varieties are 'Blue bird' with blue/purple flowers and a red center, or 'Hamabo' with large pale pink flowers spotted with red.

Hibiscus sinosyriacus is a very hardy species that grows quite fast and produces flowers early. Very easy to grow, it requires almost no maintenance.

The pink flowers follow one another from the end of April to September on this shrub which can reach 3 m height.

Hibiscus paramutabilis is a shrub native to China that can be considered in most regions where frost does not last too long; it is hardy to -10 °C.

This species can reach 4 m in all directions if planted in rich and well-drained soil. This hibiscus has light green palmate and pubescent leaves and is covered with white flowers with a red center 12 cm in diameter from July to October.

Hardy herbaceous hibiscus

Some species and varieties of hibiscus have a woody stem, but their aerial parts are herbaceous and disappear in winter, only to grow back when temperatures are very mild. With spectacular flowers, these hibiscus need sun and a cool, very fertile soil. Mulch the plants in winter to protect them.

Hibiscus coccineus is an herbaceous perennial native to the swampy areas of the southeastern United States. Growing up to 2 m tall, this hibiscus has hemp-like leaves and bright red flowers 20 cm in diameter that bloom from July to September. It can withstand temperatures as low as -12 °C.

Hibiscus moscheutos otherwise named 'Hibiscus of the marshes' is a perennial plant appreciating the watery grounds. It is thus ideal in edge of basin. The flowering in flattened cups of 25 cm of diameter is always spectacular, that it is red, white or pink. The plant can reach 1,5 m in all directions, in one season. As of the first frosts, the aerial parts disappear to reappear only late in the following spring.

Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas are a large family of which the most famous are the ones with big pompons. They come in many species and varieties. Whether they are bushy, climbing or shrubby, hydrangeas will continue to amaze us!

A vast family

Some people make the distinction between "hydrangeas" and "hydrangeas", but they are one and the same perennial plant belonging to the Hydrangea genus. The term "Hydrangea" is simply the common name for this well-known plant. There are many species in the Hydrangea genus, each with its own particular characteristics.

Hydrangea macrophylla

This is the most common plant of the genus, the one we call "hydrangea" in common language. This shrubby species with large leaves can reach up to 2 meters in height and spread when the conditions are favorable, that is to say in fresh, humus and acid soil. It is recognizable by its big balls of blue, pink or white flowers carried by rigid but hollow stems. This species blooms on the branches of the previous year, a late pruning or a frost can then compromise the bloom of the year.

Hydrangea petiolaris

This climbing species of strong development is ideal to cover a support along a wall. It bears beautiful white inflorescences in spreading domes. This hydrangea can reach 15 meters in height, its leaves take on a beautiful golden color in the fall; it is an outstanding ornamental subject.

Hydrangea quercifolia

As its name suggests, this hydrangea is remarkable for its large oak-like leaves that take on flamboyant hues in the fall. It is ideal in beds or pots but should be avoided in humid soil as it would then be too sensitive to root rot.

Hydrangea paniculata

Easy to grow and very hardy, this very vigorous species is gaining more and more followers charmed by its conical inflorescences of cream color turning to pale pink. This hydrangea supports very well a sunny exposure.

Hydrangea involucrata

Very compact (1 m high) the Hydrangea involucrata is well suited to the center of a bed or in pots. It likes a fresh and humid soil where it will display from July its rounded corymbs with small blue flowers surrounded by bigger single to double, white, pale blue or pink flowers which give it its nickname of "Hydrangea with peony flower".

Hydrangea arborescens

This arborescent Hydrangea is a vigorous species, easy to cultivate because it tolerates most soils and exposures. It is a large suckering shrub producing large inflorescences in the form of very spectacular white balls. This hydrangea can easily reach 3 meters in height.

Lilacs, growing tips

Unknown species of lilac

The lilacs that we usually see in gardens are a variation of a single species, Syringa Vulgaris; only the flower changes: single, double, pink, white... The leaves and the port of the shrub are always the same.

However, there are 22 species such as, for example, the parsley-leaved lilac, the Afghan lilac, the laciniate lilac, meyeri palibin, or the lilac oblata which is the first to flower. To these 22 species, we must add the many varieties.

As for Syringa Vulgaris, the common lilac, there are hundreds of varieties. They are preferred by gardeners, which is quite surprising considering that the other species have the same characteristics.

Lilacs of any kind are plants that grow on most soils, are very hardy, have a fragrant bloom and are very flowering. The sizes can vary: some varieties are of medium size (2 meters high), while others do not exceed 1 meter in height.

The flowering of lilacs

All lilacs bloom in spring but some are earlier than others. If you make a good arrangement in your garden, you can get 3 months of lilac bloom.

The earliest is Syringa oblata, which blooms in late March and has single white flowers. It grows up to 2 or 3 meters high. Later, the Preston Lilacs, Canadian hybrids, bloom at the end of May. As for Syringa reticulata, the tallest of the lilacs (6 meters high), it blooms at the beginning of June.

Conditions for growing lilacs

Lilacs, whatever they are, are very undemanding plants as to the nature of the soil, which resist to very cold temperatures, between -30 and -40°C (we must remember that they are almost all native to the Himalayan hillsides).

Lilacs are full sun plants. Shade is detrimental to flowering. On the other hand, because of their origins, they appreciate a certain coolness of the soil. In the South, watering may be necessary during the summer. Leaves that hang down will be the signal of a lack of water.

Pruning lilacs

Some say that lilacs are pruned in clumps, implying that lilacs do not need pruning. However, it does tolerate pruning very well, provided that it is done just after flowering, so as not to remove the flower and to obtain a bloom the following year. A pruning done in winter suppresses the bloom the following spring.

If you have old lilacs, a rejuvenation pruning can be done, but in this case, the next bloom will be compromised. To lessen the trauma, it is advisable to prune in two times: cut large branches very short, but only every other one. The following year you will finish the pruning.

Cultivation of lilacs in pots

The culture in pot is possible on the condition that you bring him food and water regularly.

Proteas, growing tips

The Proteaceae family

Proteas are from the proteaceae family, one of the oldest families in the world.

The plants of this family are native to Australia and South Africa. In South Africa, you will find mostly proteas, leucospermums and leucadendrons, while in Australia, you will find more plants belonging to the genera banksias, telopeas and many grevilleas.

The proteas of South Africa bloom in spring and fall, while the protaceae of Australia can bloom in winter, spring and fall.

None of them bloom in summer; this is their vegetative rest period. It corresponds to the winter season in their country of origin.

They all have an evergreen foliage.

Tips for growing proteas

Most of the proteas from South Africa require full sun, a poor, acid and drained soil. Their hardiness is within a temperature range of - 4°C to - 10°C.

The proteaceae of Australia are a little more rustic (- 10°C / -12°C). Some of them, such as the telopeas, appreciate more a mid-shade or even a shade exposure.

Pruning advice for proteas

South African proteas must be pruned.

Indeed, it is the new branches which carry the flowers. To force the plant to branch out and produce new branches, it is necessary to prune the old ones.

As for the Australian proteas, it is rarely necessary to prune them, because the branching occurs naturally from the faded flower buds.

Who can host proteas?

Brittany offers ideal growing conditions for proteas; it is neither very cold nor very hot. If you live on the French Riviera, you can also try growing them, although your plants will suffer from the summer heat.

Diseases of proteas

Proteas are little attacked by pests but on the other hand, they are very sensitive to a pathogenic fungus: the phytophthora.  To prevent this contamination, it is usual to spray, when the weather is hot (a condition that favors the development of the fungus) a preventive systemic fungicide, Aliette (non organic), widely used for the protection of conifers.

To discover

• Telopea speciosissima, commonly called Waratah, emblem of Australia
• Protea cynaroides 'Little princess', which forms a pretty small shrub, 1 m high and 80 cm wide.

Planting and maintenance of Indian lilac

The Indian Lilac is a beautiful shrub that is covered with clusters of flowers all summer long. Its foliage turns flamboyant in autumn and it remains decorative even in winter thanks to its cinnamon-colored bark that peels off.

When to plant the Indian Lilac?

The Indian lilac (Lagestroemia) should be planted preferably in autumn, or in spring in the coldest regions. Choose a hardy variety, some of them can withstand temperatures of -10° C for a short period of time and once well established.

How to plant the Indian Lilac?

• Choose a sunny spot sheltered from the prevailing winds. The Indian lilac appreciates a rich and humus soil and a well drained soil.
• Soak the root ball in a large basin of water at room temperature to hydrate it before planting.
• Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball in all directions.
• If the excavated soil is poor, replace half its volume with good commercial potting soil and compost.
• Scratch the bottom of the hole and mix a bit of crushed horn into the soil which will help the plant to restart.
• Form a small mound at the bottom of the hole with the prepared soil.
• Place the roots of the shrub on this mound, adjusting the height so that the collar is flush with the soil.
• Fill in and pack down.
• Water abundantly and add some soil if necessary.

Pot culture: plant the Lagerstroemia in a large container (minimum 60 cm of sides and depth) with a hole at the bottom. Provide a layer of clay balls equal to 20% of the volume of the pot to ensure good drainage. Plant your Indian lilac in a mixture of good potting soil and compost with a shovelful of crushed horn powder. Water.

Maintenance of the Indian Lilac

For the first few years after planting, water copiously about twice a week in summer. Scrub manure at the foot of the tree in October. Apply a granular organic fertilizer in April and again in July to support the abundant flowering.

Prune the Indian Lilac in March by cutting back the previous year's shoots by half to induce the appearance of young flowering shoots. Take advantage of this to remove the dead wood and remove some branches that cross in the center of the shrub.

Mulch the base and install a winter cover in the coldest regions to protect the Indian lilac from freezing in winter.

Be careful: pay particular attention to the subjects planted in pots, as the mixture dries out very quickly. In summer, watering should be sustained. A contribution of liquid fertilizer for flowering shrubs every 15 days from May to August will be welcome.

Planting, pruning and maintenance of lilacs

With its unforgettable springtime fragrance and clusters of delicately colored flowers, the lilac is one of the most essential shrubs in the garden. From planting to maintenance, focus on this plant that will accompany you with its sweet fragrance for many years.

When to plant lilac?

The lilac is an easy to grow shrub that can be planted over a long period from September to May, avoiding of course periods of heavy frost.

How to plant lilac?

The lilac is a versatile shrub that can be planted as an isolated specimen or in a hedge or bed. If you plant it in groups, remember to space each foot 1.5 m apart. The lilac appreciates rich, moist soil and tolerates limestone well. Choose a sunny spot to install your lilac.

• Soak the root ball in a basin of water at room temperature to hydrate it before planting.
• Meanwhile, spade the soil to aerate it and remove stones and weeds.
• Incorporate decomposed manure and compost into the soil.
• Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball in all directions.
• Scratch the bottom of the hole and add a handful of ground horn.
• Pour a little prepared soil into the bottom of the hole and add good planting soil, calculating the height so that the neck of the plant is flush with the ground.
• Place your lilac plant in the center of the hole and fill it in by packing the soil around the foot.
• Water abundantly.

How to maintain the lilac?

Water your lilac regularly during the summer and the months following planting to ensure a good recovery. In autumn, amend the soil at the foot of the lilac with composted manure to nourish it and prepare for abundant spring flowering.

Very resistant if cultivated in an optimal way, the lilac will not be attacked by any parasite, it is very hardy but late frosts can sometimes damage the young shoots.

Remember to remove the faded flowers to avoid the formation of seeds which exhausts the plant.

The lilac does not need any particular pruning operation, however if you want to prune it, proceed just after flowering by removing the dead wood and the spindly or crossing branches. If you prune too late, your lilac will not flower the following year. Older plants can be rejuvenated by pruning drastically to about 20 cm from the ground. Do this in the fall if it is really necessary, the lilac will form a clump capable of flowering two years later.

Frequently asked questions about lilac

Its incomparable fragrance is associated with the long-awaited arrival of spring. Purple, pink, white or bluish, its clustered inflorescences attract all pollinating insects. Easy to grow, the lilac is one of the must-have shrubs in a garden!

To which botanical family does the Lilac belong?

The lilac belongs to the genus Syringa which has about twenty species and is part of the Oleaceae family.

Syringa vulgaris is native to the Orient as is Syringa persica, the Persian lilac, a lesser known but equally fragrant species. The lilac is a deciduous shrub that can reach 1.5 to 7 meters in height depending on the species and varieties.

How to water the lilac?

Once well established in the ground (more than 3 years old), lilacs can withstand a few dry spells, especially when it comes to the Syringa vulgaris type, as the cultivars are more sensitive to water shortages.

In the years following planting, the soil must remain cool throughout the summer. Mulch it copiously to preserve its humidity. Beware of winter drought in southern regions on recently planted plants!

In pots, the substrate should never dry out completely during the summer season, but should not remain soggy. In winter, reduce watering to the strict minimum.

How to grow lilac in the ground?

Lilac is not a difficult shrub to grow as long as the soil is well drained. Stony and chalky soils do not discourage it, on the contrary! It appreciates a very sunny exposure but can tolerate half-shade in southern regions.

The typical species Syringa vulgaris tolerates drought much better than its cultivars, which need always fresh soil, especially in the heart of summer. A thick mulching of the foot will help to maintain it.

How to propagate lilac?

The easiest way to propagate suckering species is to take the shoots in autumn, by detaching them from the mother plant with a spade and a pair of secateurs. You can then replant them in another part of the garden immediately and water them regularly if it does not rain enough to ensure that they take root.

Cutting is easy to do. Heel cuttings or T-cuttings are the most suitable techniques for lilacs. This type of cutting is done in summer.

Take an end of a semi-lignified secondary stem carried by a healthy branch of which you will keep a small part (bark for the heel cutting, section of two centimeters for the cutting in 'T'.

Place the cutting in a bucket containing a mixture of potting soil or sand, or even a commercial 'Special seedlings and cuttings' substrate after having left only the two leaves at the top. Water and place the cutting in the shade in a place sheltered from the wind.

As soon as the first signs of recovery appear, repot in a larger pot and in a richer substrate. Keep it until the fall of the following year, when it will be time to plant your lilac in the garden!

How to plant lilac in a pot?

Potting lilacs is best done after they have bloomed in late spring.

• Choose a container or a pot of at least 40 cm in all directions with a hole in the bottom.
• Provide a layer of draining material at the bottom of the pot (pozzolan, gravel, clay balls, etc.) to ensure good drainage, as the lilac hates having its roots constantly soggy.
• Make up a mixture of potting soil, garden soil (if it is calcareous, it is even better), river sand and compost to install your shrub.
• Leave the neck of the plant 3 cm below the top of the pot.
• Pack well around the base of the plant.
• Water and adjust the height of the substrate if necessary.

How to plant a lilac in the ground?

Choose a sunny spot to plant your lilac.

• Moisten the root ball in a basin of water at room temperature after removing it from its container.
• Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball in all directions.
• Add well-decomposed compost and organic fertilizer pellets to the soil, and add a little fireplace ash if you have it. If the soil is very clayey, mix in a few shovelfuls of river sand.
• Pour this mixture into the bottom of the hole and adjust the height of the soil so that the neck of the plant is just below the soil surface.
• Backfill, keeping the shrub upright.
• Pack well around the base.
• Water copiously.
• Form a basin to retain water at the foot of the lilac.

How to prune a lilac?

Future flowering will take place on the previous year's shoots, so pruning should be done just after the spring flowering and in a delicate manner!

In addition to the pruning of wilted flowers (Cf. 'Should we cut the wilted flowers of the lilac?'), a pruning of the aerial parts can be considered but only on the subjects already well established (3 or 4 years).

The purpose of this pruning will be to clear the center of the shrub by cutting off dead or crossing branches in order to let in light and to favor natural ventilation.

If an old lilac becomes less floriferous and bald at the base, it will be possible to perform a drastic pruning of all the aerial parts. Cut the dead and oldest branches short. Cut back the others to 30 cm from the ground. This pruning should only be done in winter during the resting period, well before bud break (opening of the buds). Obviously, flowering will be compromised in the spring, but the old lilac will find a new youth.

Some species and varieties have a tendency to spread by suckers. You can prune them as close as possible to the mother plant, but be aware that this type of pruning stimulates the appearance of suckers.

Do I have to cut off the wilted flowers of the lilac?

This is not a requirement on non-remontant varieties, but it is possible to cut off spent inflorescences for aesthetic reasons. Prune above the first large bud just below the flowering stem. Cut at a sharp bevel away from the bud so that water does not linger on it.

Prune remontant varieties (which rebloom in autumn) systematically after flowering by simply cutting off the stalk of the cluster, this will stimulate the second flowering, as the shrub will not spend its energy on producing seeds.

Is it possible to grow a lilac in a pot?

It is quite possible to grow a lilac in a pot, so choose a low-growing variety such as Syringa meyeri 'Palibin' with pink flowers, S. julianae 'Red Pixie' with purple flowers, 'Bloomerang Pink' a hybrid with remontant pink flowers, or for those who like bluish shades Syringa persica 'Laciniata'.

In pots, it is important to be particularly careful about watering, as the substrate should never dry out more than 3 cm on the surface. Be also careful with a too hot exposure in the southern regions, prefer to place the pot in a shady area during the hottest hours of the day in summer.

Remember to feed the lilac with a liquid organic fertilizer (following the manufacturer's advice) or a mixture of ground horn and dried blood every 3 months from March to September.

Is the Indian lilac in the same genus as the common lilac?

No, the Indian lilac (Lagerstroemia indica) is part of the genus Lagerstroemia and of the Lythraceae family. As its Latin name does not indicate, it is native to China and not to India as one might think.

It is a tree which can reach 3 meters in height for as much of spread. It blooms in summer and is not hardy unlike the classic lilac.

Is the lilac hardy?

Yes, all species of lilac are hardy up to -15°C or more in well-drained soil, so it can be introduced in most gardens.

Attention: the Indian lilac (Lagerstroemia) which is not part of the genus Syringa (Cf. 'Is the Indian lilac part of the same genus as the common lilac? ') is not hardy, it will only be planted in the mildest regions.

When is the best time to plant lilac?

The beginning of autumn is the best time to plant the lilac, however winter and early spring are also other opportunities for planting.

Be careful, if you plant lilac in the spring, to wait until the end of the flowering period and be particularly vigilant about watering throughout the summer.

What are the most interesting species and varieties of lilac?

Among the numerous species and cultivars, here is a small selection which is not exhaustive:

• Syringa Vulgaris otherwise known as 'French lilac' or 'common lilac' comes in multiple cultivars selected for the color of their flowers. The typical species bears panicles of lilac colored flowers very perfumed.
• Among the cultivars, 'Souvenir de Louis Spaeth', 'Prince Wolkonsky' and 'Charles Joly' present clusters of purple flowers, 'Captain Baltet', 'Double bleu' and 'Firmament' decline beautiful shades of blue, 'Belle de Nancy', 'Belle de Moscou' or 'Katerine Havemeyer' resplendent in pink, while 'Madame Lemoine' remains the undisputed star of the white lilacs.
• Syringa patula 'Miss Kim' is a graceful and small (1.5 m in all directions) cultivar, ideal for small gardens. The clusters of flowers are full of small, deliciously scented pale pink flowers that maintain a very airy feel.
• Syringa meyeri 'Flowerfesta White' forms a bush of 1,25 m in all directions. It is ideal in pots or in city gardens. The fragrant, white spring flowers are repeat flowering in September/October. Note that this recent obtention is available in blue and pink.
• Syringa microphylla is an interesting species for its compact bushy habit (2 m in all directions) and its long-lasting (April to June), sometimes remontant, flowering from September to the end of October. Superba' is particularly easy to grow and is covered with pink flowers.

What are the most common diseases of lilac?

Very vigorous, lilacs are only really affected by fire blight, which manifests itself as black stained leaves and blackened shoots. Cut off all affected parts down to the sound wood, water with a decoction of garlic and spray with horsetail manure.

What are the main pests of lilac?

Otiorhynchus, cantharides and lilac moth (a caterpillar) are the most common pests. Spray fern purin every 15 days to prevent them.

Successfully planting a shrub

There are shrubs for every use in the garden. In a grove, isolated, in a bed or in a hedge, these plants will accompany you for many years if you take a few precautions when planting them.

Before buying

It is necessary to find out beforehand about the shrubs you wish to introduce into your garden. Each terroir, climatic zone or type of soil will have a certain number of plants.

Thus, turn to acidophilic shrubs such as rhododendron, camellia or hydrangea if the pH of your soil is below 6. In neutral soil, everything is allowed by adding the right amendments if necessary (compost, sand, green manure...). In soil with a pH higher than 7, choose plants that appreciate limestone! You will find pH tests in all garden centers.

Remember also to make your choice according to the exposure of your garden, some shrubs appreciate the shade, others really need full sun to thrive.

Another important parameter is the persistence of the foliage, especially when it comes to creating a privacy hedge! Think about this before choosing your shrubs!

If you prefer flowers, think about encouraging biodiversity by choosing shrubs that will bloom over several months and produce berries to feed birds and small mammals.

Finally, find out how tall your shrub will be so you can tailor your purchase to the size of your garden. There are low-growing varieties that are ideal for urban backyards, patios, or very small gardens!

Soil preparation

Logically you have made your choice according to the parameters described above. We will therefore start with a shrub adapted to the soil in which it is to be planted, which avoids many worries.

• Ideally, the hole should be dug at least two weeks before planting, which will give the soil time to loosen and rebalance itself, thus promoting a better recovery.
• Choose the best planting time, depending on whether it is a bare root or container shrub. As a reminder, bare-root shrubs are planted in fall and winter outside the frost period, while containerized shrubs are planted in fall or spring. Note that the first ones have a better chance of recovery.
• Soak the root ball in room temperature water for at least an hour to hydrate it. Dress (prune) the roots of bare root shrubs if necessary and prune them.
• At the bottom of the hole, spread a thick layer of a mixture of garden soil and compost, add a good dose of mycorrhizae to promote recovery and ensure a better resistance of your shrub to weather conditions, pests and diseases. Don't neglect this step because the results are often spectacular!

Planting

• Install your shrub in the hole previously prepared by adjusting the height so that its collar is flush with the ground. Add soil to the bottom of the hole if necessary.
• Fill in the empty spaces until the hole is completely full.
• Water thoroughly to evacuate any air bubbles in the soil, then add more soil if the level has dropped during watering.
• Create a basin at the foot of your shrub to facilitate watering and to keep water at the foot of the plant.
• A mulch will prevent competition from weeds and protect the stump from the cold in winter and from evaporation in summer. This mulch is very useful on shallow-rooted shrubs such as raspberry bushes for example. Avoid it, however, on xerophilous shrubs that would not tolerate this constant humidity! To prevent weeds from growing, use a mineral mulch for these plants, which will retain heat and release it while remaining very attractive.

After planting

Every shrub needs about three years to establish itself and develop its root system properly. Be very careful about watering spring plantings, which will require a lot of water in the summer to ensure their recovery. This is why fall plantings are preferred, however, they can only be done on hardy varieties.

Remember to water your shrub well the three years following its planting, and don't forget to do so in winter, especially in southern regions where drought can last for long weeks even in winter! If it rains enough, don't add more water, because an excess of water can be as harmful as a lack, it's all a question of the right dosage.

Scratch a little compost and a few granules of organic fertilizer at the foot of the shrub in the spring to support the vegetative recovery, do the same after a pruning operation.

Pruning will take place at different times depending on the variety and the flowering period if the shrubs are in bloom.

A cleaning pruning in winter will favor the entry of air and light in the center of the shrub, which will avoid the installation of many parasites and diseases. Pruning also ensures a more opulent flowering on the shrubs that bloom on the new shoots produced.

With all these precautions, from selection to planting to maintenance, you are assured of a much better success with your shrubs!

Knowing where to plant your shrubs

Each garden has its own ecosystem, divided into several zones that may or may not be of interest for planting shrubs. It is important to know where to plant them to ensure optimal success.

The microclimates of the garden

Each garden has its own specificities. Exposure, climate and soil type will help you determine the ideal location to plant your shrubs.

1- Exposure

With a southern exposure, the garden will be able to accommodate most flowering shrubs or variegated foliage because, contrary to what one might imagine, this exposure is not the most delicate, except in very hot and dry regions where the choice of plants should be made accordingly. An eastern exposure poses a little more concern, because the morning sun after a frost can cause the plants' tissues to burst. The prevailing winds also often come from the East, drying out the plants, breaking branches and inducing more evaporation. A western exposure will avoid the phenomenon of burning after the frost, the shrubs will be subjected to the afternoon sun and will have less direct contact with the wind. In the North, the cold and humidity are more important, so hardy shrubs should be planted there, which can tolerate little sunlight.

2- Climate

Each region, or even micro-region, has its own climate, well beyond the specificities between the North and the South. However, in the North and in mountainous regions, it is wise to plant shrubs adapted to cold and humidity. Avoid non-hardy subjects, of Mediterranean or tropical origin, which would have a hard time establishing themselves.

Rainfall is another important factor. Some regions are subject to regular and very frequent rainfall. Shrubs should be chosen with this in mind. As for snow, it can be a good winter protection against the cold, but in regions where it is abundant, you should preferably choose hardy shrubs with branches that are flexible or strong enough not to break under its weight.

In very hot regions where the summer is very dry and the winter mild, you can introduce more chilly subjects that appreciate this type of conditions and are resistant to drought in order to avoid continuous watering.

Regions subject to thick and frequent fog but where the temperature is mild will appeal to many shrubs because the dew that settles down facilitates gas exchanges and of course increases the hygrometry rate. On the other hand, the most fragile ones are likely to be sensitive to cryptogamic diseases.

3- The nature of the soil

Acid, fertile limestone, poor or balanced, the soil of your land will partly determine the choice of your shrubs. There is no point in trying to grow calcifugic plants that require fresh soil, such as rhododendrons or camellias in the garrigue of Marseille! You will be faced with disappointment. Always choose your shrubs according to their specific needs.

A hydrangea with blue flowers

You chose it for its beautiful deep blue color, but surprise, once installed in your garden for some time, your blue hydrangea has turned into pink. Did the fairies of 'Sleeping Beauty' come to you? No way! Let's see how to give it back its original colors.

Mysteries of Nature

Hydrangea macrophylla, better known as the florist's hydrangea, is a spectacular flowering plant, as much for the rounded size of its inflorescences as for its colors. Some varieties have a variable flower color passing strangely from blue to pink. There is no mystery behind this, it is simply a physical phenomenon that comes into play in the color of the flowers: the pH and the composition of the soil.

In a soil with an acidic tendency, the flowers remain blue or are purple if the variety chosen was it at the base.

In a calcareous soil with a pH higher than 7, the color turns spontaneously to pink, or even to red if the variety allows it.

Another parameter concerning the soil, the iron and aluminum content in their assimilable forms must be sufficient. Knowing that in calcareous soil, iron is very poorly assimilated by plants, everything is explained...

How to maintain the blue color in hydrangeas?

As we have seen, the color varies according to the pH of the soil. It is therefore obvious that it will be a little complicated to maintain a beautiful blue color in calcareous soil. However, here are a few ways to help:

• Apply a fertilizer rich in potash and alum in August when the future flower buds are forming to prepare for the next year's bloom.
• Apply every spring and during the growing season a bluing product.
• Be careful with tap water, which, if hard (calcareous) will not suit your hydrangea. Always prefer to water it with rainwater in these conditions.
• When planting, if the soil is chalky, dig a pit of 1 meter by 1 meter and fill it with heather soil, compost and a little dried blood before installing your hydrangea. Each fall, scratch some heather soil on the ground.
• If the soil is very calcareous, prefer planting in a large container in a mixture of heather soil.
• Mulch the base of your hydrangea with a thick mulch of pine bark. This mulch tends to slightly acidify the soil. If you are a fan of mineral mulch, don't hesitate to mulch the base with crushed slate, known to give a beautiful blue color to the hydrangea.
• You can find it in DIY stores or garden centers under the name 'Blueing Fertilizer for Hydrangeas' . These products contain iron sulfate and alumina, in addition to NPK formulations adapted to hydrangeas.
• Remember to water your hydrangeas regularly so that they do not suffer from water shock and so that the roots can synthesize the elements provided.

How to choose your bamboo?

To appreciate the quality of a healthy and vigorous bamboo, you should not only look at its aerial parts but also unpack it to discover its rhizomes.

If it is impossible to remove the pot, i.e. if it is swollen by the rhizomes or bursts under their push, this is the plant you need.

Once the pot is removed, we observe:

• Root system condition with the presence of rhizomes. It is the future of your plant which will give the future turions. Check that the roots and rhizomes are dense enough.
• A beautiful hair (assimilating roots) with beautiful root caps mainly in spring when there is a resumption of the vegetation. These rootlets will allow a good absorption of water and mineral salts. They can go down to several meters under ground.
• The bamboo can develop a bun, that is to say to make a spiralization of the roots. What is a handicap for many plants is not for bamboos. Once planted, it will not repeat this way of growing. It has developed a bun by constraint due to the pot. Once released, the rhizomes will resume their horizontal growth.
• Advice: at plantation, separate the rhizomes which spiral by distributing them in the ground.
• In summary, it is better to choose a bamboo with few culms but many rhizomes than the opposite. Vigorous rhizomes are more important than beautiful stems. The future of your bamboo depends on the reserves stored in its rhizomes.

The characteristics of a rhizome

• Horizontal underground stem
• Hollow and partitioned stem (fistulous rhizome)
• The nodes carry eyes that will develop into new culms.
• Roots adapted to the storage of energy reserves (starch) for its future growth. A well-fed and well-maintained bamboo the year before will give beautiful culms the following year.
• It fixes the plant to the ground with its adventitious roots. There are also docking roots that make the culms more resistant to wind.
• The rhizome is a potential propagule. From a section of rhizome one can obtain another plant (cloning)
• Although endowed with a positive geotropism, the tip of the rhizomes sometimes emerges from the ground to give a culm (positive phototropism). It can also be diverted from its trajectory (stone...), go out of the ground and then enter it again under the effect of its positive geotropism.

The questions that we must ask ourselves are the following

Different types of underground devices ?

A cespitose bamboo has pachymorphic rhizomes (from the Greek prefix meaning thick) .

The apical bud of the rhizome evolves in thatch. It doesn't go very far in the ground. In this case, the internodes are short and more or less swollen. Horizontal growth is done only on a few centimeters. Bamboos with these pachymorphic rhizomes form tight clumps. They do not spread on the surface.

A tracing bamboo has leptomorphic rhizomes (from the Greek, leptos=thin and morphos=shape), often with unlimited growth (monopodial). In this case, the internodes are long and thin. Their growth is horizontal.

Does the plant have a good root system?

The most important is in the substrate which is not in sight. It is the rhizomes that will ensure the future of your bamboo plant and not its culms.

Was the bamboo well fed last year?

Its rhizomes, which store reserves thanks to the photosynthesis of its foliage, not only allow the plant to be fixed to the ground but are also the carriers of future culms. The good work of the nurseryman is mainly found in the quality and the richness of the rhizomes. The good conditions of culture (heat in spring for a good exit of the shoots and in summer to facilitate the accumulation of the reserves in the rhizomes) make it possible to obtain a subject with well augusted shoots, resistant to the cold and rich rhizomes for the future of the plant.

Bamboos for all tastes

Bamboo has become an essential plant in our gardens. Fast growing, sometimes even invasive, this carefree plant comes in countless varieties, each with its own place in the garden. Giant, slender or bushy, dwarf or variegated, you will find the bamboo that suits you!

Ground Cover

Take advantage of the power of expansion of this plant to cover spaces where you want to eradicate weeds or create green areas without worrying about requiring only low maintenance. Indeed, the tracing roots and the density of the foliage will prevent the regrowth of weeds and will avoid you the always painful chore of weeding.

Choose the Sasa genus with its shiny and wide foliage which will do wonders in shady and humid areas. In dry and sunny soils, Pleioblastus is preferable as it can be pruned at will and will cover large areas very quickly.

Isolated subject

Always very elegant installed in a large pot, it will enhance a wooden terrace. Cultivated in a pot, the water and fertilizer must be constant to keep the brightness and beauty of the foliage and avoid its wilting. For this use Semiarundinaria fastuosa will give good results because it is not very tracing. Its culms rise very straight like candles erected towards the sky. In the sun it takes a beautiful amber color very characteristic. Very graceful, Phyllostachys decora resists well to dryness and will find its place on Mediterranean terraces.

Boundaries and borders

Bamboo, if well contained, can also be used to create borders, as well as to stabilize sloping ground. The genera Sasa, Shibataea or Pleioblastus lend themselves well to the creation of borders and the delimitation of paths as long as they are well contained with the help of anti-rhizome barriers. In early spring, prune them very short to induce the formation of new foliage and keep a compact habit.

Bamboo hedges

This is the most common use of bamboo. These hedges offer excellent visual, acoustic and wind protection, creating favorable microclimates for fragile plants.

Fargesias and Phyllostachys are most often used to create hedges. Beware, because if the conditions are right for them, their growth can be very fast, and they will easily reach 15 meters high. But don't panic, they can be pruned in height as well as in width!

Fargesia robusta 'Campbell', a non-tracking bamboo

What is a non-tracking bamboo ?

A non-tracking bamboo is a bamboo whose clump will thicken little by little, about 5 cm on each side, every year.

Most of them belong to the Fargesia family. Among them, Fargesia robusta 'Campbell', particularly requested by individuals and professionals.

The advantages of Fargesia robusta 'Campbell' bamboo

1. Its growth is relatively fast.
2. It can reach 3 to 5 meters high, depending on the growing conditions (soil quality, irrigation...), and its growth habit is erect, which allows it to be used to form a hedge, whereas other Fargesias, such as Fargesia rufa, have a much more open habit.
3. It tolerates full sun exposure, whereas many Fargesias will require a semi-shaded exposure or a cool soil with relatively mild temperatures, as in Normandy or Brittany.

How to grow Fargesia?

Fargesia will produce canes twice a year: a first important time, in the second part of spring, then a second time, more modestly, in the beginning of autumn.

Be careful: if the canes are very strong when they are out of the ground, they are very fragile when they emerge.

Fargesia accept most soils, not too sandy (too filtering), nor waterlogged in winter. They are greedy grasses that appreciate generous contributions of compost at planting. Then, we install an organic mulch (straw, RCW, small thickness of lawn clippings) in order to keep the soil fresh while letting the young canes grow. Woven fabric should be avoided because the canes have difficulty to pass through.

Once planted, bamboos require no maintenance and are pest free.

How far apart should bamboo be planted to make a hedge?

Knowing that the bamboos will eventually join together will depend on your patience. If you are in a hurry to get a compact hedge, plant every 20 to 30 cm. But if you have time, or if your budget is limited, you can space them one meter apart (then count on ten years for them to join).

The multiplication of bamboo

Bamboo multiplies by division, which explains its price, sometimes a bit high: the division takes time. Some bamboos are also multiplied 'in vitro'. But this can lead to a more compact habit and a smaller size in the first years.

Can Fargesia be grown in pots?

Be careful, Fargesia is not a very drought resistant bamboo. It is therefore necessary to be vigilant, especially since it does not show any particular signs when it is thirsty. In winter, if the water in the pot freezes, it can die of thirst.