Climbing roses or creepers

Who has never been amazed by an arbour, a façade or an arch covered with roses? Generous, opulent and vigorous, rambling or climbing roses offer a spectacle that is renewed every year for our greatest pleasure!

What is a climbing rose?

A climbing rose is recognizable by its vigorous vegetation, made up of thick stems, with or without thorns, which extend over several meters. These stems can happily exceed 10 m in length depending on the species, if the conditions of cultivation of the rose are optimal.

Rosa Banksiae, is a botanical climbing rose at the origin of many ancient or modern hybrids, just like Rosa bracteata or Rosa wichurana.

Among the old horticultural varieties are the so-called 'Boursault' roses with long, smooth, arched stems that produce semi-double or double, lightly scented flowers in June, as well as the so-called 'Noisette' roses with smooth stems and glossy leaves that serve as a showcase for bunches of 3 to 5 double to very double flowers with a spicy scent.

It would be impossible not to mention the evergreen roses, some of which are climbing, some of which are sarmentous, but all of which are very vigorous, with thorny, arching stems bearing glossy, pale-green, semi-evergreen foliage and bunches of double to very double, fragrance-free flowers in summertime.

Among the modern roses, we find climbing roses with stems that are often stiff, arched or thorny and that have the particularity of blooming several times during the season. The flowers are often fragrant and very full.

Whatever the case, there are countless old or modern climbing roses, you will be spoilt for choice!

Growing climbing roses or ramblers

Climbing roses are grown under the same conditions as conventional roses, except for the trellising.

Climbing roses are only climbing in name, you will never see them hanging by themselves with tendrils or suction cups like real climbing plants, so they will have to be trained on a facade, a pergola, a portico, an old tree or even a fence. They must be firmly attached with suitable ties to hold in place despite the wind or the weight of the flowers. Don't forget to leave a space of 20 cm between the support and the stems to favor aeration and avoid the propagation of possible diseases. Always bend the stems slightly downwards when training your climbing roses in order to encourage flowering and cut off the spent flowers as you go along so that the plant does not tire of producing seeds and continues to flower as long as possible.

Warning: before installing a climbing rose or rambler in your home, check its hardiness because some of them need heat. Beware also of its future development; a rose like 'Filipe Kiftsgate' for example, will grow incredibly large with time. You might as well know this when you buy it and choose your rosebush according to the space you can dedicate to it.

Climbing roses, growing tips

There are different types of climbing roses: single or double flowered roses, small flowered or large flowered roses and also climbing roses that can become very large, called ramblers.

Roses in the horticultural world

Roses are fairly recent plants in horticulture. Even if they existed in Antiquity, only fifteen or so rosebushes are referenced under the reign of Louis XIV. It was not until the 18th century that varieties really developed. Hybridizers started to mix the pollen of roses and obtained several hundred varieties. In Lyon, many breeders created varieties from the middle of the 19th century. Today, there are up to 70,000 varieties in the world.

Safe varieties of climbing roses

Captain Christy

This is a typical 19th century rose. It was created in 1881 and reaches 3 to 4 meters high. The flower has the shape of old roses, which look a bit like the peony flower.

Pink Cloud

It is a rose created in 1952. It is still relevant today because it has a very beautiful foliage, a strong development and reblooms several times in the season.

Pink Ghislaine de Féligonde

This is a reference variety for the Ducher nursery, in terms of flowering and hardiness. It is a multiflora rose, which means that the flowers grow in clusters. This rose was created in 1914 and, at its origin, the flower was of yellow color. In 1997, from a seed, the nursery obtained a pink variation. But it was not until 2007 that this new variety of rose was stabilized and commercialized.

Zephirine Drouain

This is an old variety, extremely fragrant, whose stems do not carry any sting. Very easy to cultivate, it does not like to be against a wall in the sun. It needs air: to be planted against a fence or on a pergola.

Zéphirine Drouain' is part of a famous family of old roses called Bourbon roses, which are fragrant and bloom several times. These roses were born on the island of Reunion, from a mixture of Damask roses (the most fragrant) and Chinese roses, which are the first to have bloomed several times in the season.

Rosa centifolia

This is one of the oldest varieties. Rosa centifolia blooms only once but is extremely fragrant (it is used in perfumery). It was already cultivated by the Romans.

The rambling roses

When climbing roses exceed 4 meters in height, they fall into the category of large roses, also called ramblers. These roses can easily climb a tree, cover the front of a house, or line a fence.

Some ramblers have grouped flowers, others have large flowers (such as 'Madame Alfred Carrière', a classic from the 19th century), or have particularly aesthetic flowers, such as 'Mademoiselle Cécile Brunner' which has very small buds, very healthy foliage, and will bloom many times.

The culture of climbing roses

All varieties of roses are native to the northern hemisphere. It is true that roses are drought resistant, but this is not the situation they prefer. The ideal exposure is the East, for the morning sun and the afternoon shade, useful to protect it from the summer heat wave. However, it remains a sunny plant that will also bloom in the west or south in less hot regions.

The rose does not like limestone either, unless it is grafted on the rose hip (Rosa canina).

The gardener's job is to guide the rosebush to its support, and to make its place, for example in the branches of an old bald apple tree.

Although the rosebush grows almost everywhere, to obtain beautiful roses, it is necessary to feed and water it, especially in early spring. This strengthens it for the rest of the year and makes it resistant to disease.

Note: the rose bush reaches its adult size in three years.

Wild roses

Wild roses are increasingly being introduced into gardens for their old-fashioned beauty, their colorful rose hips and their vigor. These roses are at the origin of most cultivars created in the rose world.

What is a wild rose?

A wild rose, as its name indicates, is a bushy plant growing naturally and spontaneously in the wild, especially in a large part of the Northern Hemisphere. There are about a hundred species, the number varying according to botanists. They agree that these vigorous bushes are all part of the genus Rosa. This genus is divided into 4 sub-genera: Hulthemia, Hesperos, Platyrhodon, and Eurosa. This last sub-genus includes the majority of wild roses that we grow in our gardens.

The flowers of these wild roses are simple and have for the most part only 5 petals spread in a corolla around the stamens.

What are the best-known wild roses?

Rosa gallica has been cultivated since antiquity and is a protected species because it has become rare in the wild. It has bright pink flowers with an intoxicating scent and intense green foliage. It is the ancestor of all old roses and those with a true rose scent.

Rosa canina is the most widespread species in Europe. This rose is better known under the name of 'Rosehip'. The fragrant flowers are simple and white, surrounded by golden stamens. This vigorous rose is an excellent rootstock because it adapts to many types of soil.

Rosa chinensis comes from China as its name indicates. It bears bunches of single or double flowers from spring until the first frost. It is the origin of all the current remontant roses.

Rosa rugosa also originates from the East. Very resistant, suckering, it forms a thorny shrub with large flowers ranging from white to red.

Rosa foetida brought the yellow color in the kingdom of the current hybrids. It is native to Western Asia. Its stems are arching and the foliage is pale green.

Rosa moschata carries bunches of white flowers which give off a musky perfume. The foliage is green purple. It can reach the height of 3 meters in all directions.

Rosa multiflora is widely used as a rootstock. Climbing, it is the origin of many polyanthus roses and modern varieties with grouped flowers. It bears small white flowers with a fruity fragrance that turns pink as it ages.

Rosa hugonis is shrubby. Its reddish-green stems bear green/gray leaves and yellow flowers. It is native to Korea and China.

Rosa pimpinellifolia owes its name to its foliage which reminds that of the burnet. It is thorny and suckers. The foliage is dark green and the flowers creamy white. The fruits are black and purple, very ornamental.

Rosa wichuraiana is a vigorous, climbing or spreading rose with shiny dark green foliage illuminated by an abundance of white flowers in clove-scented bouquets. It is the origin of many sarmentous roses.

Staging your roses

Showcase your roses in a staging according to your garden style. 

The perfume garden

• In the spotlight: one (or more) fragrant rose, depending on your climbing, shrub or bush space.
• Around it: lavender with purple flowers, sage with purple-tinted foliage, a few pots of creeping thyme, a few pots of white gauras.

This scene can be placed near the dining area where it will perfume all summer long, especially when the weather is hot. It can be planted in the ground or in a pot on the terrace. The plants you choose will blend in with any color of rosebush. Aromatics are a safe bet, (their low cost allows you to renew the decor after a few seasons). The gauras bring lightness and luminosity to the whole.

Contemporary garden

• In the spotlight: one (or more) shrub rose or ground cover with single flowers that bloom all summer long.
• Around it: a few cups of Stipas tenuifolia, blue fescue, purple Pennisetum and some Buenos Aires verbena.

A maximum of effect for a reduced maintenance to the strict minimum! Use in a sunny corner of the garden or on a terrace in large anthracite gray wood or composite containers. Install small grasses (fescues and stipas) in front of the rosebush. The pennisetum creates a duo that contrasts with the rose, while the verbenas give a vertical touch to the whole. Mulch the bare ground with slate shavings in a resolutely contemporary style.

Romantic garden for a day

• The star of the show: an antique or English climbing rose with large pink or white flowers.
• Around it: 2 balls of boxwood, 2 cups of nepetas, a clematis with small blue-purple summer flowers, 5 cups of bluebells, 3 cups of alchemilla, a bag of white cosmos seeds.

To give a romantic touch to the garden or terrace, roses are a must. A bench, a metal arch, a rosebush with old-fashioned charm, scented if possible... the decor is set. To bring out the beauty of the flowers and the tenderness of the colors, boxwood balls or an evergreen hedge are ideal. Nepetas, alchemilla and campanulas offer a soft blur to the composition while cosmos give it grace and lightness. The small flowers of the clematis create a surprise during the summer, reinforcing by contrast the beauty of the chubby roses.

Exotic Garden

• In the spotlight: one (or more) brightly colored rose (red, bright orange, bright yellow...)
• To accompany it: 1 cream-colored phormium, 1 classic fern (or tree fern), 1 hosta with very large leaves (or a banana tree), 2 heucheras with purple or orange foliage, 3 bulbs of dahlias with bright red flowers, 1 canna with purple foliage.

Brightly colored roses are often not well combined, they can even become gaudy, whereas a composition with exotic charm reveals all their beauty. This scene is perfect for a lightly shaded city patio. The foliage (varied in shape and color) provides a beautiful backdrop for the roses, echoing them as they turn yellow, orange or purple. The dahlias will take over during the summer if the rose's blooming fades a little.

Planting a rambler rose next to a large tree

What could be more fabulous than the sight of a sumptuous rambler rose entangled in the branches of a tall tree! It brings color and sometimes an unforgettable fragrance. Easy to set up, dare to set up this dazzling decor!

When to plant a rambler rose at the foot of a tall tree?

Autumn is the ideal time to plant bare-root roses. If you choose a container, you can plant them all year round except during periods of frost or hot weather. In any case, choose a subject with well-developed branches and no suspicious stains or wounds on the stems. The roots must be fresh and strong.

Which tree?

You can dress up an aging tree or even a dead tree. Keeping dead trees in the garden provides a home for a wide range of wildlife (small mammals, insects, birds). However, check that it is not in danger of falling at any moment. If it is well anchored, you can adorn it with a beautiful rose bush.

If you choose a subject that is still very much alive, prefer it with a well-cleared branch and a high habit, so that your rambler rose can climb up to its assault.

How to prepare the planting of the rosebush?

• If it is a bare-root rose, immerse it in water at room temperature to hydrate it. Prune the damaged roots and cut in half those that are too long.
• Prepare a praline made of clay, garden soil, water and cow dung. Soak the roots in it.
• If it is a container rose, remove the root ball after soaking, shake off the excess soil and dress the roots as before (pruning + praline).
• Dig a 40 cm hole in all directions at a distance of at least 60 cm from the trunk of the tree.
• Scratch the bottom of the hole, add a handful of crushed horn and some well decomposed compost.
• Pour in garden soil to a height where the roots of the rosebush can be placed so that the collar of the plant is level with the ground. Be careful not to bury the grafting point.
• Fill in with a mixture of garden soil and good compost.
• Pack well around the plant.
• Water thoroughly so that no air bubbles remain in the soil and it sticks to the roots.

After planting the rosebush

Water very regularly to ensure a good recovery. Be careful, under an evergreen tree, rainfall can sometimes be insufficient to water your rosebush properly, so be vigilant!

As the stems grow, gently lead them towards the trunk of the tree.

You can prune every other stem during the season to help the rosebush branch out abundantly.

Which rose to choose in a Mediterranean climate?

The Mediterranean climate is very particular with its hot, dry summers and mild winters. Some rather cold roses are much better adapted to it than others and will find their favorite soil around the 'Big Blue'.

Growing roses in the Mediterranean climate

The Mediterranean climate has the particularity that the summers are very hot over a long period of time and that drought occurs every year, sometimes even in the middle of winter. The direct and scorching sun does not spare the plants and the roses often go into a resting period during the summer, or even at the end of spring, only to bloom again in the fall if they are remontant.

The soil is often stony or even chalky in certain regions, notably Marseille, which is not very suitable for growing roses, most of which appreciate neutral to acidic soil.

These are many particularities that would make this area a no man's land for roses and yet! Mediterranean gardens are full of species and varieties that are perfectly adapted, you just have to know how to choose them!

Rose species and varieties adapted to the Mediterranean climate

Rosa banksiae or 'Banks Rose' is a very vigorous climbing rose that can cover a wall or a pergola at a surprising speed in the Mediterranean zone since it can reach 15 m in height and spread over at least 6 m. Originally from China, it is a botanical rose, which means that it was not created by breeders and that it exists in its natural state. It will bloom abundantly only if the winter is mild and the hours of sunshine are numerous. It tolerates calcareous and even stony soils, which makes it THE ideal subject. Its white flowers blend in with those of all other climbers such as clematis or wisteria, whatever their color. There are varieties with single yellow flowers in 'Lutescens' or very double in 'Lutea' which will look great with mauve or bluish flowers.

Rosa x damascena, the Damask rose, is famous for its characteristic perfume from which the rose essence is derived. This rose with light green foliage forms a beautiful bush that can reach 2.5 m in height and 2 m in spread. The very double flowers of old type are generally pink and give off an intoxicating perfume. The variety 'Bifera' flowers abundantly during a very long period.

The hybrids of Tea and Hazelnut roses such as 'Philippe Noisette' with pale pink flowers or 'Madame Alfred Carrière' climbing with beautiful double white/pink roses, will do well in more clayey soils but always under a strong sunlight to give the best of themselves.

Rosa chinensis, the Chinese rose is, as its name indicates, of Chinese origin. It grows in thickets in the form of a shrub that can reach up to 2 m high in its natural environment. The range of colors extends from pink to bright red but there are nowadays many cultivars, some of which can be surprising like 'Viridiflora' with green flowers!

The Chinese rose is very tolerant of soil type, the pH does not matter and it tolerates limestone. Although it is reputed to be cold, it is quite hardy but produces a more abundant bloom when winters are mild.

Which company for the roses?

The rose has long been the favorite flower, and in just a few years, its place in the garden has changed dramatically. Once confined to rose beds, roses are now considered true garden shrubs. More often associated with other plants, they offer infinitely varied scenes, both free and creative, easy to live with. The good news is that this new way of living with roses is also excellent for biodiversity!

4 good reasons to plant roses with others

• A beautiful garden for longer! Thanks to the staggered flowering of the different plants, you can enjoy a beautiful setting (almost) all year round!
• A more natural look! Nature is all about diversity. With a garden rich in variety, you follow the nature trend!
• Invite biodiversity! Small garden animals feel much more comfortable in a garden that hosts a lot of different plants. Invite ladybugs, bees and butterflies!
• Worry-free garden! The more different species and varieties you have in your garden, the less phytosanitary treatments you will need. Diversity in the garden is also the health of the garden!

For all styles

Wise or rebel, natural or sophisticated, romantic or traveler: whatever your style, create the composition that suits you! Ground cover roses or bushes, shrubs or climbers: whatever their temperament, please your roses and give them company! The range of plants is so vast that it would be a shame to limit yourself... Whether you have a garden, a terrace or a small balcony, you will always find the ones that will satisfy your love for nature and beauty!

Gift idea!

Mother's Day is coming soon: in addition to a bouquet of roses with an incomparable (but ephemeral) charm, don't resist the pleasure of offering years of flowers, colors and scents by offering a rosebush! 

Prune a climbing rose

Very imposing, climbing roses sometimes intimidate the gardener when it comes to pruning. Don't panic! With the right method, they are as easy to prune as other roses.

When to prune a climbing rose?

Remontant climbing roses, i.e. those that flower several times during the summer, should be pruned at the end of winter.

Non-remontant roses, which flower only once but very abundantly, should be pruned after flowering.

Materials needed

To prune a climbing rose, equip yourself with very thick gloves and old clothes that cover your arms well so as not to hurt yourself with the thorns. Remember to get your tetanus shot before this operation.

Disinfect the blades of your pruning shears and loppers with methylated spirits to avoid contaminating your rosebushes with possible diseases.

How to proceed?

The structure of the rose tree will be organized around the carpenter branches, which, if they are healthy, will be preserved. Think of arching them, i.e. positioning their ends slightly downwards to allow the sap to flow down better, which will induce a more opulent flowering. It is the secondary branches that ensure the flowering of the climbing rose. Prune them back to one eye along the branches.

Remove all dead branches in sections for ease of use. Start at the end and work your way back to the base, each time cutting off sections of about 30 cm.

Always keep a few long vigorous shoots that will serve to renew the plant and replace dead branches. They will also be arched on the support in a harmonious way.

Once the pruning is done, tie the branches along the support with sheathed ties so as not to hurt or cut the stems.

A successful trellis

A climbing rose does not have hanging devices such as tendrils or spikes. It will therefore have to be helped to hang along a wall thanks to a specific trellis on which the branches will be attached, or simply by stretching wires horizontally every 25 cm. Whether it is a pergola, a trellis or simple wires, the structure will have to be solidly fixed to the wall or to the ground, because this plant is very vigorous.

Transplanting a rose tree

Sometimes a rose tree is in a location that is no longer suitable for practical or aesthetic reasons. Transplanting it is an easy operation to perform but always with method to ensure its recovery.

Time of transplanting a rose tree

It is always preferable to transplant a young rose tree which is not too developed. Transplanting an old rose will be complicated by the pruning of the main roots and the recovery will be more difficult.

The operation should be carried out during the vegetative rest period from October until February. Always proceed in good weather and out of frost period.

How to proceed?

• Take a pair of gloves and thick clothes to avoid hurting yourself with the thorns.
• Water your rosebush copiously the day before the operation to make the soil more loose and to hydrate the plant.
• Dig a hole of 80 cm in all directions in the place chosen to move your rosebush.
• Scratch the bottom of the hole and pour in a few shovelfuls of compost mixed with ground horn.
• The next day, start by pruning the rose bush to 20 cm from the ground.
• If the branches are not too lignified, you can tie them together to make the next step easier.
• Use a spade fork and plant it deeply around the base of the rosebush, keeping a distance of 40 cm to avoid damaging the roots.
• Use leverage with the spade to pull out the root ball.
• If a root is really recalcitrant, cut it off as far as possible from its base with pruning shears, or even with a saw if it is a very large plant.
• Dress the roots by trimming them slightly to form a harmonious root ball. Take advantage of this to remove any soft or dry roots.
• Soak the roots with a mixture of garden soil, water, mycorrhizae and cow dung.
• Place your rose in the bottom of the hole prepared the day before, adding as much soil as necessary to the bottom of the hole so that when planted, the grafting point of the rose will protrude at least 2 cm from the ground.
• Fill in the hole and pack well, forming a bowl around the plant.
• Water copiously.

How to care for a newly transplanted rose?

If it does not rain, water your rose often to ensure its recovery. Watering should be very regular throughout the summer so that the root system can establish itself properly.

Mulch the base to protect the still fragile roots from frost.

10 tips to protect yourself from opposite walls

A opposite wall can quickly become a hellish situation depending on the more or less curious nature of the neighbors. Follow our advice to regain some privacy and serenity in your garden, away from prying eyes.

1- Install a fence

Made of wood panels, the fence will completely hide you from prying eyes. Easy to install, these light panels can be painted to your taste or covered with plants to hide them.

2- Plant trees

If the view is from above (for example, a window overlooking your yard or garden), plant a large tree in a strategic manner. Don't forget the regulations that require this type of tree to be planted more than 2 meters from the property line. Choose an evergreen variety to be protected all year long.

3- Make a very 'natural' privacy screen

Let your creativity run wild by making a privacy screen with bamboo culms placed vertically and held in place with wire. If you have flexible branches like those of the hazel tree or weeping willow, weave them into all sorts of shapes to create intimate areas.

4- Create a jungle atmosphere

If you have a green thumb, let yourself go with multiple plantings of dense or voluble foliage that, little by little, will create a real green cocoon around you.

5- Use climbing plants

There is nothing like a climbing plant on a fence, a pergola or a trellis to hide from the viewer. Vigorous wisteria, green hops, passionflower or bougainvillea in hot areas, ivy, are all solutions to live hidden.

6-Abuse shade sails

Very 'trendy', stretched shade sails are also decorative objects in their own right, allowing you to modulate the space by creating areas of shade and intimacy. Place one or more sails facing the opposite direction to find your peace and quiet.

7- Create an outdoor living room

To enjoy a courtyard, a terrace or a garden in summer, install a garden lounge and protect it from prying eyes with curtains. Very light curtains will move with the breeze.

8- Build a low wall

A wall is an effective solution to protect you from the wind and the sun. Made of cinder block, it can be painted or masked by plants such as ivy or Virginia creeper. Made of dry stone, it will be very aesthetic and will shelter a useful fauna.

9- Invite the tropics

Add some exoticism to your garden by planting plants with giant leaves such as gunnere, alocasia or banana. Installed en masse, they will hide you from the eyes.

10- Install screens

Moveable at will, light and removable at any time, the screen remains a solution to consider to protect a small area from an embarrassing vis-à-vis. Made of canvas, wrought iron or very natural materials, you are bound to find one that suits you!

Garden design: elements and principles of landscaping

To create a garden, landscapers rely on various parameters from which we can draw inspiration to shape a harmonious garden. Here are some explanations.

What are the major principles?

The main principles to respect when creating a garden are proportion, order, unity and repetition. Let's see in detail what they are:

Proportion allows you to harmonize the size of objects in a landscape, especially between plants and buildings.

The order allows to create a beautiful balance by using symmetrical forms or on the contrary to give an informal atmosphere based on asymmetrical elements.

Unity is an important concept in a garden, it is achieved by following the guideline established by a particular style or theme.

Repetition allows the recognition of familiar elements repeating in space. The scenes then unfold harmoniously and without too many striking contrasts for the eyes.

What are the essential elements?

Scale will define the relationship between the elements in the garden and those around it. The scale of the garden structure as well as that of the plants will have to be adapted not only to the available space but also to the size of the house.

Color is another crucial parameter: it brings life and dimension to the garden. It can be used through the plants of course, but also in the furniture and architectural elements. The color allows to obtain the famous unity we talked about before; thus, a palette of similar colors will create harmony while different and well marked colors will bring contrast. The landscaper can also choose to create a garden with warm and soothing colors or, for a more design-oriented garden, with cold colors to create a very particular atmosphere. He can play on these colors to highlight a specific element of the garden such as a sculpture, a fountain or a tree, or to create an extension of the house with similar colors. Know that generally speaking, white is a focusing color that inevitably attracts the eye; it must therefore be used wisely.

Lines are key elements of the garden. Soft, curved lines are reminiscent of romantic English gardens, while straight lines and angles add a more formal touch. Vertical lines are used to create height and draw the eye away, while horizontal lines expand or structure the space.

Form and texture are also fundamental elements. The shape of plants or furniture helps to keep to a theme. This is particularly true in formal gardens where topiaries and other elements are cut into specific shapes. Texture appeals to the sense of touch and sight: embossed or silver plants, airy or exuberant foliage, feathery grasses or those dancing in the wind are sure to arouse emotions.

Designing driveways to combine business with pleasure

Everyone likes to have a garden that reflects their image, their tastes and their desires. It is a pleasure to spend a moment to relax in the shade of a remarkable tree or near a flower bed. 

Plants play a major role in our gardens, but certain elements such as paths or walkways allow us to highlight them or simply access them to better enjoy them.

In the course of the beds

Often when we design our garden, it is preferable to place our beds in order to hide undesirable points of view, to obtain the best views of our living rooms, but also to highlight the entrance of our home or to dress up a mass of grass that is too large. Clumps bloom here and there to finally create harmony and different atmospheres that make you curious and want to move around the land according to the moods. Several solutions are offered to you to meet all your needs.

Japanese steps

Discreet but also very decorative, the Japanese steps allow you to walk in your garden without any maintenance constraint, you just have to pass the mower in order to mow the grass integrated between the tiles. They are indeed reconstituted stone slabs or natural stones placed on a bed of sand and between which grass is sown to create a path. Currently slate palis is frequently used for this type of landscaping, but gneiss slabs are just as aesthetic.

Paved walkways

Walkways that are more frequented and that must meet the need to enhance a building should be made of slabs or pavers. These materials, laid on sand or thin screed, require more preparation of the base but also represent a longer life span with a much higher load resistance.

Reconstituted stone slabs and pavers are often preferred to natural stone, which takes longer to install and is more expensive. This type of walkway, which is at least one meter wide, must serve specific areas to be useful.

It is often used to access a front door, an outbuilding, or as a passageway around a house. In this case it also plays the role of a cleanliness strip, it avoids the dirt of the bottom of the wall and cleans the foundations by avoiding water stagnation.

Stabilized and sanded driveways

The main advantage of stabilized driveways is that they are much less expensive to install and are often less wide than a flagstone driveway. They allow for easier curves and bends.

However, maintenance on this type of layout is more important and repairs must be carried out when the pathways are often used. In addition, they should be avoided on steep slopes to prevent sand from washing away during heavy rains.

Although new stabilized products seem to be more efficient, this type of pathway is mainly used on large properties because the costs of realization are lower and allow to realize longer lengths.

Some advice

When building a pathway on your property, think carefully about the role it will play. If it is a simple walkway that is useful on sunny days to enjoy the landscape, there is no need for an imposing pathway. More expensive to create, requiring more maintenance and not necessarily more aesthetic, it is not justified.

If, on the other hand, it is a high traffic area, don't hesitate to put in a walkway worthy of the name, which will age much better and will have a very practical side in addition to its aesthetic function. The stone tone being a very requested color for the old houses whereas the gray begins to break through for the more modern houses.

A driveway should generally begin and end at right angles to facilitate mowing. Moreover, when it makes a change of direction, it is preferable to justify it with a bed, a tree or an arrangement, in order to integrate it well, to accentuate the attraction of the eye further and to push the curiosity to continue our discovery of the garden.

Laying a paving stone in the garden

A paving stone made of cobblestones, reconstituted stones, bricks or even slates brings an undeniable charm to the garden. Whether it is an extension of the terrace, marking the path through the plants or a simple path leading to a specific point, paving stones remain an essential part of the garden.

The different types of materials

1. Brick

Practical to install, non-frosty, aesthetic and relatively inexpensive, brick gives a certain cachet to the garden. Terraces, paths, low walls, everything is possible with this material, which is particularly well adapted to the English garden style.

2. Reconstituted stone

Composed of crushed natural stone mixed with binders, reconstituted stone offers many advantages: it does not freeze, it is very easy to maintain and comes in many colors and shapes that fit into most gardens, whether classic or contemporary.

3. Interlocking pavers

An ideal solution for small budgets, interlocking paving stones are easy to install and do not require any heavy masonry work since they are laid directly on a simple bed of well-levelled sand.

4. Slate

It gives an authentic look to the garden. It does not freeze and changes color according to the effects of light and weather, with iridescent reflections that are always very aesthetic.

5. Paving stones

Sandstone or granite paving stones bring a specific charm to the garden reminiscent of Italian piazzas and evoke a past that is still relevant today. They are very solid and non-frosting and can be used to build romantic paths.

Practical advice

Once the material has been chosen, think about its installation so that the effect is both successful and practical. Always leave a slight slope for natural water drainage, with one centimeter of leveling per linear meter. The water will be directed to a selected area of the garden for a driveway and to a manhole for a terrace.

Another important parameter before installing the paving is to plan for the possible passage of cables and other electrical sheaths that will supply the gate and lighting, as well as the automatic watering system, which should also be planned in advance.

When laying on sand, always remember to clear the ground and place a geotextile felt between it, the sand and your paving stones to stop the growth of any weeds that would otherwise quickly become invasive.

Designing a sloping garden

Erosion, difficulty of cultivation, a sloping garden can quickly defeat the best wills. However, it is enough to create some arrangements to transform this hostile universe into a small paradise.

A gently sloping garden

If your garden has a gentle slope, there's no need for major work.

In the ornamental garden, create curved paths like our English friends do so well. Place your beds perpendicular to the slope in order to tame it and to retain watering.

Choose plants with fleshy roots and rhizomes that retain the soil much better. Create a system of gutters starting at the top and going around your crops to protect them from runoff.

Similarly, if you want to create a vegetable garden, install plessis always perpendicular to the slope to retain the soil. You will then be able to grow your vegetables in these squares, at ground level.

A garden on a steeper slope

The steeper the slope, the greater the phenomenon of gullying due to runoff. Crevices and holes appear, preventing the fertilizing elements from staying in place and making watering impossible. This type of land must be developed to make cultivation possible. It will then be necessary to be inspired by our ancestors who practiced the method of terraces, thus creating levels of culture, where the retained and heated ground could be cultivated without concern.

Another important interest is the aesthetic aspect. A terraced garden always has a particular cachet if the plants are well arranged. The highest ones at the back of the setting and the lowest ones at the front to create a nice perspective.

How do I create terraces in my garden?

Terraces must be laid out perpendicular to the slope to be effective. The choice of materials varies according to the desired effect and also according to the budget. Note, however, that a stone retaining wall will be much more durable than the wooden version, so you won't have to redo the work every five years, but it's all a matter of personal choice. If your preference is for planks or logs, which are very aesthetic and perfect for retaining a gentle slope, choose a rot-proof wood such as black locust for example.

To build your first terrace, start at the top of the slope and spread the earth taken from the top of the slope over the bottom of the future terrace. The retaining wall will then be created at the foot of the first terrace. Continue down the slope, creating successive terraces that do not have to be the same size. This will allow you to vary the pleasures and break the visual monotony.

Plan the watering

An automatic watering system will be perfect to irrigate your garden gently, while saving both water and your health, because it is better to avoid the back and forth movement of a full watering can on a sloping ground!

Access

To access your terraced garden you will need to create paths: gently sloping stairs, winding paths, the choice will be made according to the slope but you will also need to think about the practical side by creating access areas for the transport of your wheelbarrow.

Building a slope

As a mound of earth that is subject to severe stress, the slope often poses a problem for gardeners. However, with a little common sense and the use of adapted plants, it should be easier than it seems.

Characteristics of the slope

A slope is necessarily steep. Formed by a more or less stable mound of earth, it is exposed to the vagaries of the climate, particularly to erosion due to rainwater runoff along its slopes, digging faults and canyons to the great despair of the gardener.

A slope is in fact structured in 3 distinct parts:

• the lower zone which receives all the rainwater ;
• the slope, which is highly subject to erosion;
• the top where the growing conditions are a little better because the soil warms up faster, but also dries out faster because it is affected by the wind.

Here we are in front of a very gloomy picture but don't panic, effective solutions exist to vegetate this very particular and interesting area because of its relief.

Planting logic

For a successful effect, shrubs and taller plants will be installed on the upper part of the slope, but let's not forget that in full sun, there are particular conditions, so the plants chosen must be able to withstand the wind and a relatively dry soil. These will be the first to be installed, you can then go down gradually without damaging the plants previously installed.

In the sloping part, ground cover plants with fleshy roots will be welcome. They will help to retain the soil with brilliance.

Finally, in the lower part of the slope, small plants that require more nutrients can be installed.

For a successful effect on a slope, a controlled vegetation clutter is essential. Avoid planting in rows and prefer groups of several plants arranged in large colorful patches.

Plants adapted to cover a slope

Rhizomatous and ground cover plants are perfectly adapted to cover a slope.

In height we will choose grasses and bushes resistant to drought such as the magnificent blue ceanothes, teucriums in the same tone or the variegated fusain for its bright foliage. Broom will also do wonders, illuminating the embankment with its golden blooms.

At the edge of the border, install large German irises, which are well known for holding the soil. You can vary the pleasures by introducing a few subjects of different colors in the sloping area. They will be the perfect accompaniment to aerial grasses, St. John's wort, periwinkle or perennial geraniums, as well as beautiful lavender or rosemary plants.

In the lower zone, anything goes, so you can plant annuals to change the decor often, alternating with beautiful perennials that will give it structure. Among them, sedums, erecting plants or campanulas, but also violets or alysses, which are always very flowery.

Building a roof terrace

Having a roof terrace is a real blessing in urban areas, especially during the summer months when it becomes a place for outdoor conviviality. From the floor to the furniture, through the decoration, let's see how to make it pleasant to live.

Regulations

Before building a roof terrace, always ask the opinion of the co-ownership if there is one. Once you have the approval, make sure that the weight of your installations complies with the regulations.

Each element must be light enough to be moved (never more than 90 kg).

Nothing should be attached to the roof deck slab for obvious waterproofing reasons.

Guardrails placed at a height of between 1 meter and 1.10 meters and including at least one stop plinth of 10 to 15 cm depending on the height chosen for the guardrails must be installed.

No equipment likely to be stepped on must be located in the immediate vicinity of a guardrail.

Floor design

The floor covering gives a certain cachet to the roof terrace. If you want a very natural effect, why not try synthetic turf which has the advantage of being easy to install and very light. It is available in several colors for a very trendy effect.

Natural stone such as slate or marble can be considered, as well as porcelain stoneware tiles, which are easy to maintain, but beware of the weight; always make a preliminary study.

Wood brings a lot of style to a roof terrace: exotic wood slats, duckboards or composite wood, the choice is yours!

How to design a roof terrace?

Again, it all depends on your taste and the function you want your roof deck to serve.

Gardening enthusiasts will be pleased to install a few raised vegetable patches to grow vegetables, or beautiful planters containing shrubs, perennials and annuals to complete the decor. To create an exotic atmosphere, cycas, small bamboos and horsetails will make their effect.

Others will prefer to create a friendly outdoor living room with soft armchairs and large cushions. If you're a good handyman, there's nothing to stop you from creating your own garden furniture from recycled pallets. You can paint them to your liking and create the shapes that suit you. Tables, armchairs, deckchairs, nothing is impossible!

A shade will be necessary for your living room. Choose a pergola or simply an offset parasol, or even a set of sails stretched to bring a very Mediterranean note to your roof terrace.

Tame the moss in the garden

Soft, green and very ornamental when you know how to use it, moss should not be considered as the gardener's enemy. Let's learn how to integrate it into the landscape to enhance the decor...

Who are you, moss?

Moss or rather mosses (Bryophytes) are rather primary plants since they have neither roots nor stems. Not having a vascular system, they need, for most species, a high level of humidity to develop and grow in good conditions because they draw their food from water and gases.

Epiphytes, they don't need soil to grow and fix themselves with small hairs (rhizoids) on all surfaces, horizontally as well as vertically.

Conditions for introducing moss into the garden

Moss cannot be used in all gardens, several conditions must be met: the area must remain very cool in summer, the climate must be preferably very humid, the shade must be preponderant, and a northern exposure desired. If you live in the South of the country and you are fascinated by mosses, you will have to create optimal conditions for them to be happy in your home: an undergrowth atmosphere, the presence of a watercourse or a waterfall, are all elements that will make this possible.

How to use moss in the garden?

If the conditions of humidity and freshness are met, you can create a magical decor, ready to welcome elves, fairies and other characters of misty tales.

The moss is ideal to decorate the gaps between the tiles of a path or between the Japanese steps.

It will also work wonders on an old tree stump, where it will mask the ravages of time, or on decorative objects such as Japanese lanterns, wells, and concrete benches. It will give them a delicate patina and a lot of character.

In areas that are too humid and shady for the lawn to grow, don't fight the moss anymore but install it fully, it will elegantly cover the ground with its delicate felted carpet.

An old roof or a damaged wall seem very sad to you? Don't hesitate to vegetate them with moss, you will see life in green!

Moss can also be used as a decor in its own right in Japanese gardens where it has a prominent place not far from topiary shrubs and shimmering maples. It creates a link between stone and water, between minerality and humidity.

How do I plant moss in my garden?

If your garden is suitable for moss, you must certainly have some in a corner, otherwise you can get it in the nature (except protected areas) by taking very little in each time in order not to destroy the biotope.

The public gardens are sometimes good sources, it will then be necessary to ask for an authorization to take it. Then you will install it directly in the chosen area of your garden. If the surface is vertical, or you want to fill between slabs, let it dry a little, grind it with a mixer and mix the particles obtained with beer. All that's left to do is to spread the mixture with a brush and moisten the surface well in the following weeks to see your moss come to life.

How to choose a big subject for your garden

The notion of "big subject" is subjective and depends on the plant and its perception by the gardener.

Where to put a large plant?

The first question to ask yourself if you wish to acquire a large plant is where you want to plant it. The location of a large tree in a small garden can pose several problems, because of its proximity to the house: leaves falling into the gutters, the possibility of the tree falling on the house, the roots lifting the asphalt or piercing the pipes as it can be the case with the fig tree or the pine tree, ...

How to choose a big subject ?

Large trees are expensive and represent a real investment. So it is very important to choose it well, that is to say to make sure :

• that it is adapted to the climate ;
• that it is also adapted to the size of the container that will eventually receive it;
• that the heart, in the case of palms, is a beautiful soft green. It is quite normal for the old leaves to be damaged, or even burned by last winter's snows, but the heart must be of good quality.

Planting a large olive tree in your garden

Before bringing home an olive tree, you must first make sure that its foot is not carrying a fungus called verticillium wilt.

Then, we look at its general appearance: the absence of dry branches, the presence of young shoots, and the absence of small piles of sawdust revealing the presence of a bark beetle (a small beetle that makes holes and galleries under the bark).

Foliage and transplanting

A beautiful tree with a lot of foliage is very aesthetic but can be adapted to transplanting; the more leaves there are, the more the tree suffers from evapo-transpiration. If this evapo-transpiration is higher than the water absorption capacity of the root system, the plant will have to face a water deficit that will be detrimental to its recovery.

In this type of situation, one should not hesitate to cut back up to 90% of the leaves.

When to plant a large plant in the garden?

For palms, the vegetative rest period is in summer. It is therefore advisable to plant them at this time of year, tying up the heart to limit evapotranspiration.

Conifers are ideally planted in the fall, a season when the soil is still warm. For other large plants, spring or autumn is preferred, even if the subjects are in containers, because these are the two periods most favorable to the recovery of the root system and the plant as a whole.

Hiding a fence

Of a more than questionable aesthetic, a fence must be hidden in any self-respecting garden. Whether it is a fence or a simple fence to protect a specific area of the garden, you will always find solutions to hide it.

Hiding a fence

Heather heather made of stems of the said plant held together by stainless steel wires is a good solution to hide a fence. The panels are easily attached to the fence and give a very natural look to the garden. Choose panels of good thickness that will allow you to hide from prying eyes but also to protect you from prevailing winds much better than the first price references.

The timeless canisse is another option to hide a fence. The material fits very well in the garden and its cost is not very high, however it does not stand up well to time.

Fortunately, PVC privacy rolls are becoming more and more aesthetic. However, forget about fake leafy hedges, or fake grass which would not really improve the appearance of your fence. If you are patient, weave it with specialized rollers or place a PVC privacy screen that is pleasing to the eye. There are now some very ornamental ones covering a range of colors that fit perfectly into contemporary gardens.

To hide a fence, there is nothing like a beautiful hedge of diversified shrubs to spread the pleasure of flowers. A real blessing for biodiversity, this hedge will hide your ugly fence while attracting many gardeners' helpers. Think of introducing berry bushes, which are very appreciated by the birds in the neighborhood!

Hiding a low fence

To protect certain areas of the garden, especially the vegetable garden or a fragile spot where animals are excluded, the fence is quite practical, but it remains very ugly. Climbing plants are a great way to hide it beautifully. Honeysuckle, clematis, Virginia creeper, morning glory, nasturtiums and sweet peas will add a colorful touch and sometimes a delicate fragrance.

Boxwood and dwarf varieties of charcoal will also have their fans, especially since they can be neatly pruned each year. As for the exotic, they will turn to low and non-tracking varieties of variegated bamboo to give luminosity to the whole.

A flowering curtain can also be set up during the summer along your fence. Choose plants that are slightly larger than the fence so that it is well hidden. Think of planting diversified varieties in order to stagger the flowering as long as possible.

For an original and very 'natural' result, you can plant willow cuttings at the foot of your fence if it is solid. All you have to do is weave the stems into the fence so that it disappears under the vegetation.

Partitioning the garden

Creating green niches, secret places, varied universes, here is the interest of partitioning in a garden. With the help of plants or specific arrangements, let's see how to modulate the garden at leisure!

Hedges to divide the space

To frame a specific area such as a vegetable garden or the children's play area, there is nothing like low hedges to keep a view on the site while delimiting it. Boxwoods, spindle trees or low varieties of cherry laurel such as 'Mount Vernon' are perfect for this purpose.

For a more intimate partitioning, think of yew trees, used in the manner of French gardens, they will allow you to create geometric paths pierced here and there by windows overlooking a water feature or a sculpture for a classic decor.

These high hedges can also be pierced by arched doors opening onto a surprising garden of a totally different style, such as a Zen garden, where minerals are king, or onto a garden shed painted in a shimmering color.

In the more country style gardens, the partitioning can be composed of bower, or even of varied hedges of shrubs with staggered flowering. They will frame a more open area or an orchard to which they will bring the effective help of pollinating insects for a better fruiting.

This type of hedge can also be used to enclose a space surrounding a few beehives, which will be sheltered from the prevailing winds. The bees will find all the pollen they need for their incessant activity. 

Also, a henhouse is sometimes not very aesthetic. Why not place it in a green space that, while masking it, will bring some shade to the hens? Large spindle trees, photinias, cherry laurels or cedars will do the trick.

Climbing plants to create secret areas

Climbing plants placed on a fence, a trellis or a pergola will perfectly play the role of plant partitions. Perfect privacy screens, these arrangements will allow you to hide from prying eyes around a pool or to create corridors to move from one area of the garden to another. Climbing roses, wisteria or even cucurbits supported by iron hoops will form fragrant, colorful or original passages.

On a fence, Ipomoea or passiflora will climb to create green rooms where it will be nice to have tea.

Labyrinths to let yourself go to poetry

Getting lost in a labyrinth to forget the notions of space and time is quite a program! Beyond the amusement provoked on the children, this original type of partitioning also allows to pass from one zone to another of the garden in an unusual way. Made of giant bamboo for a permanent version or of corn for a temporary one, labyrinths have a very particular charm.

Arrangements to partition

Plessis weaving sometimes takes the form of arabesques to create niches in the garden. Whether it's an area dedicated to lounging and sheltering a hammock, or a food area hiding aromatic herbs, plessis allows for all sorts of fantasies.

Less pleasing to the eye but just as effective, the openwork wooden panels also provide a stricter partitioning, as do the masonry walls or, better still, the low dry stone walls that bring a certain cachet to the garden while attracting useful wildlife.

How to flower the bottom of a low wall?

In a garden, the question often arises as to how best to decorate that strip of land left unattended at the foot of a low wall. Here are some ideas that will help you...

Location of the low wall

Depending on its location, the low wall can shade the plants that will be at its foot, or on the contrary, capture all the heat and give it back. Its exposure must therefore be taken into account when choosing plants.

The nature of the soil is also important. Under this masonry space, the soil is often compacted and of poor quality, so it must be amended with compost and manure if you wish to install greedy plants.

Also think about the pH, because some plants only grow in acidic soil (azaleas, camellias...) while others appreciate basic soil.

Don't forget to mix perennials and annuals. The former will form the basis of the decor, the latter will complement them in order to vary the pleasures according to the seasons. Finally, remember to plant the tallest plants at the foot of the wall and the lowest ones just in front of it so that they remain visible.

What to plant at the foot of a shaded wall?

If the area is shaded, plant a beautiful line of Hydrangeas that will illuminate it with their large pink, white or blue pompons. If the wall is topped with a fence, you can replace them with climbing hydrangeas (Hydrangea petiolaris) that will enchant you with their clusters of white flowers in summer. Camellias or rhododendrons will also do the trick, especially in acidic soil.

At the foot of these shrubs, plant hostas, whose many varieties provide a very interesting range of colors, or hellebores, which will bloom in winter. You can also install ferns or heuchera to play with the texture of the foliage.

To give your low wall a boost in summer, add a few plants of impatiens from New Guinea with delicately iridescent flowers.

What to plant at the foot of a low wall in full sun?

If you want to decorate the base of your low wall with roses, consider improving the soil before planting with a good organic manure. Depending on the height of the wall, plant rose bushes or ground cover roses, which come in all colors and for all tastes.

If you have little time to devote to your garden, think of grasses! Stipas, sedges, blue fescue, miscanthus will be happy with poor and dry soil and will require almost no maintenance while giving movement to your decor!

Think also of the hardy perennial geranium, which over time forms beautiful cushions of blue, pink or purple flowers depending on the variety. This easy to live with plant will give you nothing but satisfaction.

In the Mediterranean area, the foot of a low wall is a very hot area, especially if it is exposed to the south. A border of agaves, can be of the best effect, as well as the plantation of Aloes which will make you the surprise to bloom in winter or of aeoniums always surprising by the shape of their rosettes of leaves. All these succulents come in multiple species and cultivars, which will allow you to vary the pleasures. At their feet, Gazanias, verbenas or petunias will color the picture in summer.

You can also border your wall with aromatic plants such as lavender, rosemary, helichrysum or sage, all highlighted by a border of thyme; the pollinating insects will be delighted!

How to organize a large garden?

We will explain to you how to organize the garden plots, so that the gardener and the biodiversity are in a win-win relationship.

The ornamental garden and the meadow

Taking care of a large garden can be complicated and time consuming. In order to simplify the task and optimize space and work time, Annecé decided to divide her large 4,000 m2 plot into two parts: on one side, a meadow was planted, and on the other, the ornamental garden was installed.

Why plant a meadow?

There are three major reasons why a gardener might want to turn part of his or her garden into a meadow.

• First, a large garden requires a lot of maintenance. Transforming a part of it into a meadow, in which the plants will grow without any intervention once sown, allows to lighten the gardener's workload (no pruning, no repotting, no hoeing...).
• Secondly, the sown meadow includes many melliferous plants, such as phacelia, blueberry, or clover. These plants allow to feed the bees of the hives installed in the garden in order to favour biodiversity and pollination of the cultivated plants.
• Thirdly, the meadow is used to host 'farm' animals. Two sheep are housed on the site. They allow to free themselves from the work of mowing or clipping the meadow, while feeding themselves. They come to join a small group of ten hens which, for their part, provide the eggs. A hut installed in the shade of an apple tree serves as a shelter for the sheep and the henhouse.

The ornamental garden

Inspired by permaculture, with a concern for respecting the living, the garden, cultivated organically, had to be aesthetically pleasing as well. Thus, different zones of various sizes and shapes have been created. Flowers, interesting for the auxiliaries, were sown on all the edges of the garden. They will attract butterflies and bees necessary for the pollination of the flowers and vegetables grown and will make the site more attractive during the spring and summer.

Things to remember...

Dividing your plot into two spaces allows you to enjoy a family garden and to let nature enjoy your garden as well.

Autumn colors

The design of a garden depends on the choice of plants: if the first criterion for selecting plants is the spread of flowering from spring to the end of summer, it would be a pity to overlook the colors that it provides in autumn.

A few appropriately chosen species can make for an aesthetically pleasing garden in spring and summer, but also colorful in the fall.

Among the plants of autumn interest, we find trees, shrubs, grasses or perennials that will bring a touch of color, not only by their leaves but also by the berries, inflorescences (grasses) or trunks (shrubs).

Examples of trees with decorative fall foliage

• Viburnum opulus 'Roseum': commonly called the Snowball, it is a classic element of hedges. It produces large balls of white flowers in spring and fall while the leaves turn purple.
• Acer ginnala, the maple of the Amur river: maples are part of the beautiful autumn trees. We know the Japanese maples but not much about the Acer ginala, interesting for its small orange-yellow to scarlet-red leaves less lobed than those of the classic maples, its pretty flowers, its fruits (samaras), as well as its small size (6 to 8 meters high), ideal for small gardens.

Examples of plants of autumnal interest by their bloom

The heathers, some of which are still in bloom in autumn:

• Heather 'Marlies: carmine flowering from August to December' ;
• Heather 'Winter Chocolate' : purple bloom from August to October and fire color foliage in autumn.

Grasses, very easy to maintain, that mark the seasons and bring a lot of lightness to the whole garden:

• Pennisetum villosum (Swabby Grass), a small, light grass that grows to 80 cm tall and is covered with white spikes. It looks great in combination with roses.

• Miscanthus (Eulalie, Elephant grass), variety 'kleine fontaine': it has very vaporous spikes, from 1,50 to 2 m high and can be integrated into a shrubbery or even a hedge.
• Carex testacea (Orange sedge): small grass of 60 to 80 cm in height, of color green olive tinged with orange copper.

Creating relief in the garden

Nothing is more monotonous than a flat garden where the eye can't grab onto anything special except a few trees planted here and there on a vast lawn. Learn how to give relief to your garden in order to give it a very personal charm and to create a unique atmosphere.

The essential features to create relief

In a garden, there are simple techniques to give relief based on arrangements that will break the visual monotony of the whole and why not create some surprises!

The higher parts will be used to have an overall view of the garden while the lower ones will constitute a more intimate, more secret zone.

Stairs made of materials that give character, such as old railroad ties, red bricks or slates, wooden terraces, pontoons, Japanese steps leading to a specific point, mounds, embankments, rock gardens help to give life to a garden and to create well-defined spaces.

How to give relief to the garden?

If the ground is hopelessly flat, the solution is to remove at least 20 centimeters of soil to create levels. 

With the soil removed, you can create mounds, beds and rock gardens to install specific plants that will add to the relief of the whole.

It is also possible to dig a pond in the farthest part of the house. This one will attract the eye on the varied fauna that will inevitably settle there.

A curved Japanese walkway can lead to the pond, providing an additional aesthetic appeal. If the pond is large enough, a pontoon or a footbridge can also be used to create a certain relief, even a perspective effect.

With the earth extracted from the hole to dig the pond, you can also create flowerbeds and other features that will make your eyes rest.

Another solution if you wish to avoid all earthworks: the creation of a garden in movement. Some shrubs lend themselves perfectly to being pruned in clouds, in waves, to create a veritable sea of plants. Rhododendrons, camellias or Japanese maples will bring color to the garden, creating a soft and Japanese atmosphere. Play on the movement of the paths by using curved lines and avoid straight lines.

How can you talk about a garden in motion without mentioning grasses? These plants of various sizes and shapes play with the light and undulate at the slightest breeze. A good way to create relief is to plant tall species such as Pampas grass or Cane of Provence in one area of the garden and alternate with smaller species such as Pennisetum.

Blue fescues, less moving, will bring a very graphic touch to the garden, they are wonderful on a white or black pebble mulch.

Playing with minerals is also a very good way to give relief to the garden: textures, shades, shapes can create very interesting contrasts in terms of tones but also heights. Think about it!

Creating a city garden

In the heart of the city, the space dedicated to the garden is often limited. Often reclaimed from the concrete, these privileged locations deserve a design that is tailored to them. Improving the existing space and enhancing it with a few tricks are the keys to success.

Compose with the existing

To create a city garden, you will first have to examine the existing elements: walls, buildings, facing buildings, vegetation already in place, possible ground coverings...

Generally littered with rubble or concrete remains, the ground must be improved. To do this, decompact it, remove the macro-waste present and add organic matter such as well decomposed manure, quality potting soil and compost. This will lighten the soil and make it more fertile for future plantings.

The planting of large trees is not recommended in city gardens of less than 150 m², avoid planting them and if they already exist, remember to have them pruned every two to three years to keep a good luminosity and a healthy space, otherwise mosses, lichens and mushrooms will quickly invade your garden.

Don't forget to also identify the shady areas where you will install plants that can withstand these conditions and the hottest areas to place less hardy plants.

Take advantage of the specificities of a city garden

The absence of horizon is one of the specificities of a city garden because it is surrounded by walls or buildings that can quickly give a feeling of enclosure. To soften this effect, you must work to erase these limits by creating a soft vegetal transition. To do this, use verticality by dressing the walls with climbing plants, then play on the perspective effect by placing the highest plants in the background and the lowest in the foreground.

Create a central pathway from the house to the back of the garden by playing with materials and colors, knowing that light colors make small areas bigger. In very small gardens, you can even install a large mirror on a whole wall to create an optical effect that multiplies the surface area, but be careful, for a successful effect, drown it in the surrounding vegetation by framing it with climbing plants.

To make people forget the small surface area, plant plants that combine several assets and attract the eye. Play with the shape of the shrubs by creating contrasts between slender and stocky varieties, select tortuous varieties or those with remarkable bark that will attract attention in winter, and stagger the flowering. To do this, mix shrubs and perennials, biennials, annuals and bulbs to create a colorful carpet.

Place here and there decorative objects such as candle holders, a Japanese stone lantern, a small fountain or a statue. These elements will catch the eye and make you forget the smallness of the place, if they are placed in a discreet way and by small touches.

Finally, don't hesitate to create alcoves and corners sheltered from view by placing wisteria or rosebushes on an arbor or a pergola, but also by using shade sails or even simple parasols. You will thus create islands of peace despite the urban environment.

Create a Mediterranean garden without watering

Plants that grow naturally in the Mediterranean region offer many options for creating a water-efficient garden. Adapted to drought and heat, these easygoing plants are just waiting to join your garden to give it the Provençal atmosphere it deserves.

Nature of the soil and climate: two essential parameters

Mediterranean plants are adapted to their environment. The soil is often poor, stony and lacking in organic matter. If your soil is sticky, heavy, clayey and retains excess water, it is imperative to drain the soil with gravel, sand or pozzolan in order to grow these plants which do not tolerate this type of soil. Another solution is to create levels, slopes and embankments so that the water can drain away as much as possible and never stagnate at the roots. Restanques are typical of the Provencal landscape, so why not take inspiration from them?

Think also of mineral mulch which retains heat and gives it back at night but which also serves as a cover for the soil, preventing the growth of weeds and keeping the earth fresh. If you do not have the possibility to spread a thick layer of mulch, do not hesitate to put a geotextile felt underneath to prevent weeds from growing and to prevent the mulch from disappearing into the soil after a while. A mineral mulch recalls the spirit of the garrigue and immediately evokes Provence!

Perspective and layout

Take inspiration from magazines or photos taken on vacation to create a typical Mediterranean atmosphere. Think of your garden as a painting with different levels and a few objects evoking Provence. Think about perspective, and create effects that are visible from various points on the property.

Choice of plants

Remember to be well informed before choosing your plants: some are not very hardy, so they should be avoided in cold regions.

As for trees, if your climate is not too cold, you can install an olive tree, which always has a very evocative charm, a holm oak or an arbutus tree, which are much hardier, or why not, a Cypress of Florence. The latter is used in Provence at the entrance of properties to welcome people, it is also a good luck charm for some. Its graphic line makes it an ally of the landscape gardener!

Let's talk about the shrubs that will make up your beds. Outside the Mediterranean zone, forget about hibiscus, lantanas and other exotic plants. Prefer ceanothes (-15°C), rockroses (-10°C), perovskia (-20°C), phlomis (-7°C), heathers (-20°C) or even chasteberry (-7°C).

Classic bedding plants are of course agapanthus, whose deciduous varieties can withstand temperatures below -10°C, but also sage, rosemary, much appreciated in its creeping version to cover slopes and low walls, but also lavender, which is much hardier than one might think! The list is not exhaustive and you can vary the pleasures endlessly according to your tastes and your region.

Exoticism in the garden

Even in regions that at first glance would not lend themselves to it, it is possible to create an exotic and lush plant decor. Let's see how to prepare the ground and choose the plants that will best resist.

Create a favorable micro-climate

To create a dream setting with abundant vegetation, you must first create a micro-climate in the area dedicated to the exotic style. The plants will then be able to grow sheltered from the prevailing winds, which could otherwise cause the temperature to drop too low. A walled city garden, a patio, or a courtyard are ideal locations. If your garden is not protected in this way, install 2-meter high wooden panels to delimit the area to be protected. You can then hide them with climbing or vertical plants to create that lush effect so desired in an exotic garden.

The majority of the plants that will be installed, most of which come from subtropical climates, will do well in well-drained soil, which will avoid a good number of diseases as well as the dreaded asphyxiation of the roots. If this was not the case at home, work the soil by adding compost and sand, or even a draining bed of pozzolan at the bottom of the planting holes.

A wise choice of plants

Many plants can take advantage of the ideal conditions created for them, you just have to choose them hardy enough to survive in your region.

When we think 'exotic' we inevitably imagine bamboo and palm trees. This is a good thing because some species are hardy and can be installed without worry in gardens in the center and north of the country.

The use of bamboos is multiple: the non-tracking varieties like 'Fargesia murielae' or 'Sasa veitchii' with white variegated foliage which resist up to -20° can be planted in clumps in a bed. Larger plants such as the famous golden bamboo (Phyllostachys aurea) or the very ornamental black bamboo (Phyllostachys nigra) will be perfect to delimit the area. Be careful, however, to install an anti-rhizome barrier in the ground to avoid invasion!

As for palms, Trachycarpus fortuneii with its beautiful fan-shaped palms will undoubtedly bring an unparalleled touch of exoticism. It can resist to -20°C once well installed!

Dare, the banana tree in a well sheltered corner. Musa basjoo or Musa sikkimensis are very hardy. The large, soft green leaves will provide you with a beneficial shade in summer while evoking distant lands with sweet flavors.

To dress up the ground or to create a cool area around a bamboo or pebble fountain, think of ferns! There are many varieties, some of which are of European origin and well adapted to our shady and humid gardens. The most adventurous will start growing the tree fern (Dicksonia antartica) which can withstand -5° C if planted in well-drained soil. Very majestic, and able to reach more than 5 meters high in its country of origin, it brings a very particular touch to the garden.

Always very graphic, the phormium and its varieties with purple or variegated foliage, inspire exoticism. Much hardier than one might think, its stump resists up to -15°C. It allows you to create dreamy decorations at the foot of palms or bamboos while adding a welcome note of color in this green universe. The kniphofias will also contribute to this brightness, proud of their orange summer stems. Don't forget to add a few Japanese lanterns, mobiles here and there and large pots containing bunches of large cut bamboo culms to complete your exotic decor.

Decorate the base of a large tree

Often bare, the foot of an imposing tree offers a rather unappealing sight unless its bark is decorative. To make up for this lack, we propose here some simple solutions to dress it up.

Decorative objects

To dress up the base of a large tree, a circular wooden or concrete bench can be a great solution. You will find a beneficial shade in summer to read and will be able to dream at leisure while listening to the rustle of leaves in the wind.

Why not create a wooden deck around the base of the tree? Depending on its surface, you can install a deckchair, a garden furniture or compose a plant decoration based on  tolerating the shade. If the tree is close to a pond, the terrace can be transformed into a pontoon for a bucolic atmosphere!

Another solution, much more original, is to cover part of the trunk with a handmade and very colorful knitted fabric! Of course, you have to be daring, but the result, as surprising as it may be, will give your garden some pep. Don't hesitate to use flashy colors and to superimpose them.

If you like large colored glass candle holders, you can also surround your tree with them, at night, the decor will be magical. In the same vein, it is possible to dress the trunk with light garlands which, if they are ornamental during the day (butterflies, flowers...) will have a double interest.

Mulching

Mineral mulch is recommended by many garden professionals to cover the base of a tree. Play on contrasts with large white pebbles to create a Zen atmosphere, or with pozzolan for a wilder atmosphere.

Artists can create calades by drawing arabesques of pebbles all around the trunk or imagine real paintings based on wood slices of different sizes arranged side by side.

Vegetation

Under a large tree, the conditions are not great for planting vegetation: lack of light, very little water... A real challenge! However, certain bulbous plants such as cyclamen, wood hyacinths or muscarias will do well under a tree.

If the atmosphere is humid, you can try to form a carpet of helixine or even ferns or try planting periwinkle which will cover the ground with its bluish carpet. Some low grasses can also give movement at the foot of a large tree, thus breaking the rigidity of the scene.

Plants to highlight a pathway

Walkways are the link between different parts of the garden. It is important to choose the right plants that will give character to your pathways while gracefully accentuating them.

Choosing plants

The choice of plants that you will install along your pathway will depend on several criteria, notably the climate and exposure of the area to be landscaped.

Always choose plants that are adapted to your soil and that will be able to withstand the situation of your garden. Prefer perennials, so you will obtain a long-lasting decoration.

The best plants to border a path

There are many plants that will perfectly accentuate your pathways, depending on the style you wish to evoke.

To create a natural, low-maintenance setting, consider grasses. Panicums and Stipas are perfect for this purpose, their light foliage and beautiful, long-lasting feathery inflorescences make them the perfect choice for the edge of your driveway, especially if your soil is well-drained and the exposure is sunny. The blue fescue with its ball shape and its particular color will offer a dream setting and will easily find its place in the most contemporary gardens.

The perennial geranium is covered with flowers from May to the first frost. Once again, it is a perennial plant that is very easy to grow. Once well installed, it requires very little watering and it will suffice to cut back the clump in the fall. The variety 'Johnson blue' with its beautiful blue flowers is a must in the garden.

In southern gardens and in light and poor soil, Helichrysum can be considered. In full sun it produces golden yellow flowers and gives off a very characteristic curry scent.

Taller, since it can reach 1,5 m height, the perovskia adapts to almost all situations. It can be used to create borders for paths that are both wild and intimate. At its foot, you can plant bulbs of daffodils or tulips that will open the season with their colorful blooms.

For a beautifully highlighted walkway, think of the graphic foliage of Iris germanica, which give a certain verticality to the walkway. The color palette of the flowers ranges from pure white to black and every shade in the light spectrum. Often velvety in appearance, sometimes deliciously fragrant, these plants are ideal for edging walkways.

For those who prefer a formal garden, consider boxwood, which can form beautiful linear paths with geometric shapes. This plant can withstand pruning and will require very little watering once it is well established.

To create a very English walkway, mix various plants of different heights and colors. Taller plants such as delphiniums, hollyhocks or peonies will be placed in the background while smaller ones such as Ajugas reptans, silver baskets or ophiopogons will be placed at the edge of the path. A romantic look is guaranteed!